aak5454

what does something like that cost?

Circle Porsche in Long Beach had the old ignition part. I asked for it by the Audi part number and he was like "oh, that a Porsche part also and went and got it right away".

Yep, been there; done that. BTW, in my case, the leak was on the engine side of the tank where it goes thru the wall so when I pulled the carpet back in thre trunk, everything looked OK, but alias (later) when I looked in the engine area....a new tank was needed. Yep. I just went through it too. :cursing: Hope it's all better soon. :thumbup: <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

no unfortunately I do not have the Porsche PST2; just a regular OBD II code reader.

Here's an update on troubleshooting P1124/P1126 on my MY 97 Boxster with 95K. I happen to have the Porsche OBDII book as well as scan tool. I found that I was also getting a P0130 (O2 sensor, cylinders 1-3) when I started the car up and let it idle in the garage (door open, of course). The scanner updates every 15 scans. Prior to this I always got a P1124/P1126 together but nothing else, but I always checked after the Check Engine light came on. After readin in the book, I ofund that P0130 is a non-latching coode and will be cleared after some time if the fault is "healed". This code is related to the sensor heating up and functioning correctly in the first 200sec. I use my Boxster as a daily driver and drive about 28 miles (45min) each way so it appears that the fault was clearing itself before I got home. Anyways, I replaced the O2 sensor before the Cat today on cylinders 1-3 and the P0130 (or any other code) did not appear on the garge idleing test. Still needs road testing. Moral of the story is some codes are non-latching and they can be the ones that indicate the part that truly needs to be replaced. Thus, one needs to check in the garage instead of hooking up the OBD II after the Check Engine light come on and you get back to your house.

I have a 97 986 and a '68 911. I've been working on early 911 for 7 yr and only recently got the Boxster. My take is folks driving the early 911s and 356 are driving them becuase they want to and love the cars. Many of the folks driving new 911s and Boxster probably view them as just another sports car that makes you look cool (or whatever). With that said, obviously there are drivers of the new Porsches as well that are just as dedicated to the marque, but harder to separate them from the posers. I usually look to see if they have PCA sticker in the window. Its a good indication they are serious about Porsches

hello redline..... do your statement about a faulty MAF also apply to P1124/P1126? Sounds like you have dealt with this problem more than once. any other suggestions to check? I have the Porsche OBD II and done all the things they suggest without success. Also a number of other folks posting with similar/ same problem. Thanks

Like many of the folks posting here, I also have P1124/P1126 always together, but never anything else. My car is '97 2.5 with 95k miles. Recently I am going them more often which made me think something is starting to fail but after reviewing the all the psot one this site I have procrastated about starting the swap-a-part process. I have only had the car about 9 months and its SEEMS to happen more often on warm/hot days (summertime now in LA; plenty hot! so happens every few days) Also, I do a lot of driving in stop-n-go travel (life in the big city :D ) Both my mechanic and I have gone over the car and not found the problem. Area 1 is for idle and Area 2 for higher RPM range (as I have been told). P1125 is the opposite problem as it indicates running too rich (check other post on this website for more details). Let's keep talking about this.

there is no such thing as a '65 911e. There was only the std. model with no subscript (T,E,S). as for the price, that's in the right ballpark. I know a guy who sold his for $20k and it was in very original, but un-restored conditions. With that said, you need to look past the shiny paint and check out how much has been replaced, resotred, etc and if it was done right.

still learning about Boxsters as I got mine used (long-time early 911 owner also), but got a MY97 with 95k on it (and adding 60miles/dy as a daily driver). As I know there were issues with leaking rear main seals and then some motors got sleeved cylinders (porsche did not tell cust. at the time). I guess I am always surprised when Porsche owners are worried about "high-mileage" when its not even at a 100k miles. If you own a Chrylser or a GM product, well thats a different story. A well maintained German auto (pick your brand) should go a couple of hundred kilomiles unless you take it to the track or drive like madman. Happy Boxster-ing Mike in LA

There are quite a few post about this related topic and it raises a few questions since I am now seeing P1124, P1126 on a regular basis. Background: MY97 with 95K miles; I was seeing these two codes (always together) about once every 6-8 weeks. Now done to less than 1 week between appears (daily driver; 58 miles round trip) :drive: . I have never had any other codes appear. In reading thru the post going back over the last year or so on this topic, it seems many people get these codes (or similar) along with some other code (which tends to be the root cause of their problems). In cases where you get codes from both side of the engine at the side time, you need to have a common connection point which is the failure (MAF??) While it possible one could have an O2 sensor failing on both sides of the engine, but my engineering equipment experiences tells me that simultaneous failures of two parts are very rare. I have the OEM guide to the OBDII codes and have done all the recommended checks; as paid a mechanic to do the same without finding any issues. Some open questions: 1. What is the difference between P1124/P1126 and P1128/P1130; they talk about different ranges, but not clear what that is. 2. For the MAF, there are two types depending on whether you have e-Gas. From other readings, its seems e-Gas (also called e-accelerator) is an option and thus shoudl appear in the option code list for the car? 3. Read that O2 sensors are recommended to be repllaced at 100K. Any thoughts or experience on this. I hate playing "swap-a-part" but seriously considering to change the MAF as I know that other auto manufacturers (e.g. Volvo) have lots of problems with this type of part. Thanks for your thoughts and replies. :thumbup: Mike in LA

No need to use such heavy oil you mentioned; use recommended weights (look in owners manual). Your engine is still young.

I think you better starting complaining right away becuase you are going to get the shaft. Basically, you had a brand-new car and now it is less than perfect to no fault of your own. You will need to repeat this dozens of time before the insurance company will understand. You should not settle for less than new condition. Thus (depending on how you drive) if the tires are already pretty well worn (say 40% gone; measure tread depth) then you need to be compensated for 60% of the price of a new set of tires. What you actually do with the money is your business. Likewise, you have suffered loss of your vehicle. They will offer you about $15-18/day for your trouble. You need to explain that one can not rent a $90k sports car for $15/day. This advice comes from being hit several times by random idiots. Even if you fight and complain you will still probably suffer some loss in the end. Best of luck.

Here's some photos. Just says "Made in Italy" and what appears to be a date code for 1996.. I could not find a part number on the side. This illustrates the dangers of going to the swap meet early in the morning when you are half-alseep. :huh:

I bought some Porsche wheels at a swap meet this weekend in the LA area and got them home and they don't fit on my car (Boxster, MY97/17" wheels). :cursing: They stick out beyond the fender by about 10mm (back wheels) so clearly the offset is wrong. The wheels are 7.5x17" in the front and 9x17" in the rear. They look very, very similar to the OEM Boxster wheels I have (twisty look) and looks similar to (or may be) the Cup3 type wheels. The guy had them on a '86 Turbo and thought they came off a Boxster (I guess not). It does not appear they would come from a 996. Are they wheels from a 993? I would like to know so I can sell them to someone who can actually use them. Needless to say, the wife is less than pleased that I managed turned $1200 in cash into a stack of unuseable wheels in garage. :help: Thanks for the help of getting me out of the dog-house.... Bonehead in LA

For jacking up the car, I first jack up the back on each side and put Cinder blocks under the tires and then do the same for the front. This way the car is level and no danger of falling on me. Also, the emerency brake should be engaged.

You missed my statement in the previosu post....."As long as they keep the 911 a step ahead in performance and technology," Moreover, look at what Japanese brands do (e.g. Lexus/Toyota % Nissan/Infiniti). In those cases, they even use the same chassis and just dress it and charge 20-40%. I continue to be amazed that people buy a Lexus 300 which is nothing more than a dressed up Toyota Camry. Porsche is taking a significant but important step by keep in the 911 chassis as a high end only product. Also, I am sure you will see they will continue to introduce things first on the 911 and then in later model years make it available to the lower priced models.

I think it make a lot of sense in many ways. The luxury market is getting more segmented; particular in a downward price direction. Porsche's only offering is a cab (the boxster)in the 50k range, but at that price point they are competing with the likes of Corvette (for example) and other offering coupes. As long as they keep the 911 a step ahead in performance and technology, people would have a budget to spend $80-90K and want the best, they will go with the 911 rather than settle for some less. Also, it offers a lower price "rung" to get potenetial buyers in the door (and in hope they will trade-up later; automotive pricing theory...not sure if it is true) Granted people are price-value sensitive, but in the end you don't buy a Porsche to save money :D

A Porsche is a Porsche. No further explaination. A Maserati is.....well, just another car that many people have not heard of. As for dealing, to quote the CEO of Porsche AG from a few years back after PCNA sent out some unauthorized coupons good towards new car purchases to PCA members...."discounting tarnishs the brand". Given this is premier year for the 997, I would guess you are going to pay sticker (or more). Happy car hunting :drive:

Unless you paid for FedEx Intl, it would be a small miracle for it arrive at your doorstop in Belgium assuming shipment from the USA in that amt of time. Probably should take 7-10 days from the date of actual shipment.

I would also recommend a 0W-xx oil given your weather conditions (I used to live in Aachen just across the border into Germany) and the fact that your car is basically brand new. Your conditions are really moderate and even on your "warm" days 30C is really mild driving conditions with respect to the engine. I would not consider run a heavier oil (i.e. higher than 0W-xx) than the factory fill unless doing hard racing or live in a hot climate (American Southwest/desert) or have a lot of miles on the engine (150+tkm) Happy Motoring :drive:

Here's a few technical corrections/updates to some the posts in this thread. With respect to leak down of tire pressure and what to fill them with, there is no such thing as an "air molecule". Air is just a mixture of 78% Nitrogen, 21% oxygen and a trace amt of argon, water vapor and a bunch of other stuff. I am not sure why N2 filled tires would last longer or run cooler. I don't thing the thermoconductivity of N2 and O2 is very different. Nitrogen is a rather poor heat conductor relative to other gases, but I would expect the dominate cooling mechanism for the tires would be due to the high velocity of the air passing over them when you are driving. I guess that N2 is used in race car tires since it is very easy and cheap to get very low moisture content (ppm range); getting moisture out of compressed air is a bit more trouble. As for mixing water and antifreeze (chemical name ethlyene gylcol), the freezing point of the mixture is lower than either of the pure products due to the thermodynamics of mixing (I will not trouble you with the details); however, by creating this mixture you reduce cooling effiency because water can carry more heat per unit volume than just about any other fluid. I don't remember where the mininum freezing point is, but is not a 50/50 mix. Anyways, just a few technical tidbit for those (dis) interested parties. Antifreeze in the tires??? Hey, I got some halogen headlight fluid to sell you. I'll make super deal on it for only $50/quart. Guaranteed to make your headlights twice as bright..... :P

Now I understand. I missed the statement that even though it is filled from the bottom, the fluid does not run out. Thanks for the posting the picture of the "official" tool. That's a huge rip-off for $289 as that's about $20 would hardware to build an exact duplicate. The way I would (will) do it is with the following materials: 1.tygon tubing from local hardware store 2.food service ketcup/mustard squeeze bottle (purchase new/clean from Smart&Final or place that sell food service stuff 3. elbow or short piece of 1/4" copper/metal tubing for the end of the tygon going inot the trans. 4.(optional) quarter turn valve from hardware store with hose barbs on each side This set-up will require two people for ease of use/prevent spillage. Also, you could skip the squeeze bottle and use a small funnel (one person to pour fluid while the other holds the tube inside the trans.) to have a gravity feed system

Based on my experience with early 911s (pre'73), I would look closely at fuel delivery. Given that it take an hour to restart, you may be delivering too much fuel to the car and/or something is overheating. I don't know much about the sensors of that type of car so not able to suggest much there. Also, I am assuming you have experienced this over more than one tank of gas. Crappy/old gas could cause something like this as well.

I think there are two issues at hand here: one technical and one customer service related. You have two dis-similar metals in contact which present an opportunity for reaction (given the right conditions). Al and Ni do react to form some very strong intermetallic compounds, but if my memory serves me correctly ( I have a grad engr. degree in materials science), this only happens at temperature well above operating temperature of an engine. HOWEVER, the present of a third substance can cataylize such a reaction at a lower temperature; here in lies the issue the customer service issue. If you allow an anti-seize compound, you have to specify exactly how much, what types, etc, etc.(and customers will invarible take this as a license to do whatever they want) and when there is a warrenty claim it become unpleasant since the customer will never admit they did not follow the specification (or think they have, but did not) and Porsche ends up eating warrenty claims and/or pissing the customer off (bad either way). Disallowing anti-seize compound makes it simple from both a technical and customer service standpoint. Mike P.S. I managed an applications engineering department for a German equipment company for 4 years; I've been through many, many warrenty claims on equipment supposedly "fixed" without the aid of the manufacturer. The story is almost allows the same.....