txhokie4life

Replace the carbon canister and purge valve this morning. took a leisurely 2.5 hours. Since this was my first time, I think I could have cut 30-60 minutes off the time if I had to do it again. Took a little while to find the purge valve. It is tucked up under the wheel well -- a little towards the top ~12:30-1 o-clock position. I took a couple pix to help the next person.... BTW, getting the purge valve out and pack in was a little tough -- its in there pretty good. Once I got it out, took a little bit to get the new one back in -- a little oil on the o-rings made a huge difference. Mike

Is it possible to put a 2005+ Caymen coils/shocks in a 2001 Boxster S? From a scale of no-effing way to yes but a ton of work, to a slight modification, to very little effort at all? thanks, Mike

Upper part of cylinder heads on the opposite side from the tensioner side. should be just above(maybe below) the green plugs (where you can view the camshafts) on the edge part of the cylinder head. One side maybe north (top) - the other south (bottom) (I can't remember - I don't have an engine in front of me) if you have an extra plug or two -- you might want to check that the camshaft is in deed in alignment. you can pop the green blug (by stabbing it and yanking), than put the engine TDC. The camshafts should be in alignment north/south with the split in the cam cover to cylinder head seam. two rotations of the crankshaft gives you one complete cycle on the camshafts. the green plugs just press back in -- but you need new ones. Mike

Just looked at an 00 S with 109K miles -- 90% confident it just had an IMS let go. Seller described it as: - -sounded somewhere between marbles and metal slapping, but the (bite my tongue) - guy - drove it anyways. He bought it untested from an auction -- decided to test drive it when it reached his lot, made it 1/2 mile away --- than towed it back to his chop shop/lot. Put it on CL listed it as DOA (fortunately). But his price was too high. The codes were all misfires, cam sensors, and a few others. Oil all over over the engine/transmission gap area. BTW, -- I think the <bite my tongue again> is going to take it back to Auction and try to resell it -- It was in decent shape otherwise. So if you are in Austin and there is a Black 2000 S at auction -- Be weary engine is likely toast. Mike

Wow many thanks for the info... as you can see from the thread i'd come to the same conclusion as you.. It must of just crumble off when i cange the plugs the because the car has been running beutiful. i won't switch on the ignition the as i dont want the dreaded light up...what are they like to change do i have to take off the cam case..thanks again Oddly -- this wire connects straight to the cam tensioner solonoid -- you would think something internal like this would have a connector from inside to case, than case to outside. What this means is you will need to replace the tensioner solenoid. Not am impossible task with the engine in -- but not the easiest either. Here is some pics to give you an idea what you are up against. pix of cam tensioner solenoid you might even consider trying to splice the connection if there is still some wire left going into the solenoid. kind of a kluge -- but maybe a reasonable trade-off.... I think someone posted a specific DYI on here for this. good luck, Mike

I tore down a 3.4L that had a spun bearing -- it too had the scoring on the walls and pistons. you could see where the piston was hitting the cylinder head. Ultimately causing a head gasket failure and intermix. this block cannot be repaired short of relining. I never heard this 3.4 when it was running -- but I suspect it would have sounded like what you described. the spun bearing allowed the connecting rod to have more play and piston slap. mike

SWAGGING HERE: It could be that they are still within tolerance but the information that they send to the DME causes it to change how it is controlling your fuel mixture. Maybe making it run richer which I think means more gas. You might have been sending some unburnt gas out the tailpipe -- wasting fuel. somebody more knowledgeable should be able to really tell you what is what. A google search gives me this (and seems to support my SWAG -- jeez I just might have to trade my pocket protector for some coveralls :-) O2 sensors and fuel mixture unfortunately the discussion from the previous month does not seem to exist. Mike

Mike: If the 01's top is factory, then it should have the "PORSCHE" logo in white, centered near the bottom edge of the glass. It it is factory, it has to be from an '03 or '04 top, and, in that case, it will fold properly when in the service position. The top edge of the glass will just clear the roll bar and you can then flip it up, but it then has to be held up with a strap that goes from the driver's side of underside of the rear main bow to the tongue on the driver's side of the front edge of the convertible top frame. As Tool Pants says, the '03/'04 tops have a four bow frame, so it's easy to indentify. Regards, Maurice. I'll have to check it out the next time I'm out at the shop -- but I'm thinking it is a non-porsche glass window. mike

So if I wanted to leave the 3.6 unmodified, but also be able to use the fuel delivery of the return systems -- what would I need to do. In my case I'm using an Boxster 01 S to test engines, so I want the capability to run both fuel system types, or at least I want to run both engines un modified but mod the car to run both. ideas? mike

Well don't I feel stupid. 4th Boxster - but all my others have plastic rear windows This is an 01 that the previous owner put a glass (looks to be factory) top on. I tried to put it in service mode, but the glass keeps hitting the roll cage and I can't seem to "flip it up" like the plastic ones. Is there a trick to it? Are the later models (03-04) slightly different? thanks, Mike

Thank you, that is what I plan to do. Diff oil is for the diff only. My worry is what I overheard at the delership and then invoiced for 5 litres of diff oil. The service manager assures me that they get ATF delivered in 20 litre drums which is correct and to invoice it they don't have part no for each litre so use the diff oil part no. I checked the parts catalogue on hte Porsche website and its funny they now don't have a part no for each litre of ATF but have one for the 20 litre drum. What should the operating temp be for the ATF fluid under load --- say after a 20 minute drive? Just changed the ATF -- and want to make sure everything is happy. I can query the fluid temp with my Duramatic thanks, Mike

total guess here -- but maybe you serpentine belt failed, or the alternator gave out and you ended up limping home on battery alone. but your comment on only running with a little gas makes me think something a little more serious. I would have it towed and take it to a mechanic and have it checked out. Mike

I think it was to expedite insurance payments -- or to allow the insurance companies to get these off their books quicker. They also didn't want a ton of these cars to show up post Katrina -- and in this case post-Ike. I do not know what the reciprical laws are for other states -- but I've heard that not only can you not register it in Texas, it is banned from ever being driven here should it somehow get registered in another state. m

I would get a second opinion. compression test? boroscope? Check oil filter, oil, coolant? If the IMS were to fail -- you'd have carnage. Or at least you would have lost timing -- did this get checked? I agree with Loren -- get a second opinion. mike

Cool. Sounds like that Durametric may be getting to the heart of the matter. Let me know if it ends up being your purge valve. That's the valve that near the engine (at least it is on a Boxster I think), right? Oh, and maybe I should bring my car to your inspection station. Guess I can't do that though. Sure hope it ends up being a simple fix. Ken I thought both of the valves were by the canister but my Porsche repair manual hasn't been too handy on this one. I think I found it in the OBD-II manual: I've tried to attach a pdf of the page. Purge Valve (#7) is right next to the canister. mike 986_DME_5.2_OBDII.pdf.pdf

Amazingly passed inspection today -- but CEL came back on while driving home. Pulled my Durametric out and captured the code P0446 fault code 95 Shut off valve activated charcoal filter(function) I also noted with the Duramatic you can turn on/off several engine functions using the Drive Links I was able to hear the shut off canister valve activate on and off. However the other valve, the purge control valve, made no sound at all -- So I'm not sure if the duramatic was unable to control this -- or that it indeed was bad and did not respond. I'll have to pull the purge control valve and check it -- hopefully this weekend. Mike

I'm pulling the fuel nozzle out as soon as the pump shuts off and being careful not to overfill. However, it's possible that previous prolonged overfilling could be the reason for a saturated charcoal canister. My gas cap checks out OK when the inspection station tests it (Texas procedure). I'll be digging into it myself soon and I'll report back whatever I find. Got same problem -- trying to figure out what part to purchase. Is this the same part as I found on Pelican 993-201-221-01-OEM for $75.50? Listed as Activated Charcoal Canister for Tank Ventilation? Pelican Charcoal Cannister thanks, mike Hi Mike - I'm assuming you need the canister for a 911 or 944 - and it looks like this part is basically the same however it's appearance is completely different from the charcoal canister I needed for my 2000 Boxster S. I went to Boardwalk Porsche in Dallas to get mine. You might want to have them check their parts catalog for a part number for your car and see if it matches the Pelican Part number. I will say this - the new canister solved the problem up until just this past fall - sometime around Sept. or Oct. the problem returned! So obviously I haven't found the complete answer to this problem - only a partial answer. My guess is that some other part - maybe a valve, purge or other - is causing the canister to fill up quickly - this is assuming that the return of the problem is in part because of the new charcoal canister getting clogged again. I had my car in to the dealer (Boardwalk) for some other repairs - insurance claim - and they checked over this issue but couldn't immediately point to one single known part or failure. They would have to spend considerable time testing, etc. to find the cause. I can't afford this kind of work from a dealer or even from an independent so I'm just going to have to keep plugging at it myself until it's resolved. Besides it kinda fun to finally figure out the mystery. Well, OK, not always that much fun - more fun to drive than fix. Good luck with figuring out your car issues! Ken Yeah I'm thinking that Pelican is wrong on this one. I see you tested the valves... Is there a way to test the canister? Purge it? $200 every 6 months sounds pricey! Wonder if the change to ethanol in the Fall had anything to do with it? I'm got a quote into Sunset to see how much it runs there. thx, Mike

Not sure what their definition of top end rebuild is -- but at that price I would expect all the way down to the crank and new bushings/bearings/rings (there is not much more to do when you crack the engine case to get to the pistons that you might as well do the crankcase) and I would also expect a complete valve job. Assume $100/hr -- I can see it taking a lot of time -- just not sure 60+ billable hours. mike

I'm pulling the fuel nozzle out as soon as the pump shuts off and being careful not to overfill. However, it's possible that previous prolonged overfilling could be the reason for a saturated charcoal canister. My gas cap checks out OK when the inspection station tests it (Texas procedure). I'll be digging into it myself soon and I'll report back whatever I find. Got same problem -- trying to figure out what part to purchase. Is this the same part as I found on Pelican 993-201-221-01-OEM for $75.50? Listed as Activated Charcoal Canister for Tank Ventilation? Pelican Charcoal Cannister thanks, mike

Not an expert here -- just based on what I've read. I think that absolute numbers are not what you are after, but deltas between cylinders. Calibration and other factors can alter the absolute values. Deltas of >??% or so from cylinder to cylinder are what you should be concerned about. As an example - we've got a Boxster that is registering ~230#s except for cylinder 5 at 0# (ouch) Mike

What are the engine codes? Could have lost timing -- I would not drive it or even run it. many possible causes -- but basically timing chain jump could give you these symptoms. Power loss is due to compression loss out an open/bent valve? Could also have suffered a broken valve spring, and the valve stuck open and hit piston. ting -- could be valves hitting piston. Mike

I'll do that! I am going to trailer it back to my place on Tomorrow night....After that it's nights and weekends only, as this is just a hobby. It hard to believe this was listed as a total loss. I considered picking this up a couple of times... but I believe it was a salt water issue. I'm in Austin. BTW, you need to check but I was pretty sure it could NEVER be registered in Texas, part of the Salvage type of title that is on that car. No possibility of getting a restored or salvage registerable title. When I determined this (and I could be wrong), I gave up on pursuing it. The Immob will be shot, quite possibly the window motors too. The radio doesn't work most likely because the immob is shot. Where is the DME on a 996? Was it under water? How about the airbag control or sensors? I had a Boxster with the IMMOB shot -- $700 at Porsche to replace and reprogram with 1 key -- and it can only be done at the dealership. So you have to tow it there to get it done. No telling if any of the wiring is corroded and will need to be replaced - -depends on how long that salt water sat there. Shoot me an email and we can talk offline. mike@lonestarrpm.com Mike Thanks Mike I'll get with you off line today...the deal's not done till I pick it up tonight. Wes Just want you to be as educated as can be so you know what you might be getting into. Could be a steal (I know I was darn tempted and for the right price would have taking the chance) Note: I do not know anything for sure about the title -- but did a bit of web research. I'll PM you my phone number. Mike

I'll do that! I am going to trailer it back to my place on Tomorrow night....After that it's nights and weekends only, as this is just a hobby. It hard to believe this was listed as a total loss. I considered picking this up a couple of times... but I believe it was a salt water issue. I'm in Austin. BTW, you need to check but I was pretty sure it could NEVER be registered in Texas, part of the Salvage type of title that is on that car. No possibility of getting a restored or salvage registerable title. When I determined this (and I could be wrong), I gave up on pursuing it. The Immob will be shot, quite possibly the window motors too. The radio doesn't work most likely because the immob is shot. Where is the DME on a 996? Was it under water? How about the airbag control or sensors? I had a Boxster with the IMMOB shot -- $700 at Porsche to replace and reprogram with 1 key -- and it can only be done at the dealership. So you have to tow it there to get it done. No telling if any of the wiring is corroded and will need to be replaced - -depends on how long that salt water sat there. Shoot me an email and we can talk offline. mike@lonestarrpm.com Mike

I'm looking at finding a boxster to use as donor for swapping a 3.6L M96 engine into. What is the best donor car by year? My understanding is Boxster of this vintage: I'm focussing mostly here on the electronic aspects: < 2000 you deal with the next line AND e-gas issues < 2001, you need DME, ABS, Instrument Cluster, maybe more. 2001 you get all you need except for the DME 2002+ you have the right DME, but it still needs to be flashed for dual vario-cam plus. Do I have this correct? thanks, Mike

sorry answered too quick --- and then wanted to delete but couldn't this is you amplifier -- but I am not sure where that connector went unless it was to a CD changer. m