geza

RUF also has an under car short shift kit........

Remove the exhaust and take it in. One other welding anomaly is the fact that as current passes through the weld tip to the parent metal of whatever it is you are welding, current arcs across any tiny gaps (this current circuit is created by the earth you have to connect to the weld job) - like crankshaft journal surfaces, valve guide to valve stem gaps - you get the idea........all these little arcs create high and low spots on the metal surfaces involved - and you can get rapid failure of those moving parts.

One assumes you want to know if this is a good deal........? Log on to www.kbb.com or www.edmunds.com and check out their Used Car pricing calculators - you can put in all the options, as well as cite the condition of the car, which you failed to mention here.....load it all in and see what the experts say. Good luck.

Mike Jensen Representative, North America +1 530-676-7246 mjensen@directcon.net

Does anyone have first hand experience with Tubi mufflers for the subject model? Sound, quality, resonance etc. Would appreciate any comments regarding satisfaction or otherwise.

The fluid tire repair kits (where you use a cannister of stuff to re-inflate and seal the interior of the tire) only work on certain size punctures. If you have a sidewall failure, or a very large puncture, the fluid kit will probably not get you too far. So its all about probability............the odds of a major tire failure vs. the odds of a small puncture. The spare wheel in the trunk will deal with both scenarios. Overall, punctures are fairly low risk in normal road situations. Large tire failures/large punctures would seem to be even less of a risk in the same conditions. If space is the major deciding factor here, then get a good quality repair kit and see what happens.

Here is a word for word quote from the Porsche website regarding PASM operation: "Porsche Active Suspension Management (PASM) is an electronic control system which uses continuous damper adjustment to maintain optimum ride quality and comfort. The push-button system is standard on the 911 Carrera S and optional on the 911 Carrera. PASM has two setup modes, “Normal” and “Sport”, with only minimal overlap between the two. While the former is a mix of performance and comfort, the “Sport” setup mode has a much firmer range of settings for greater performance capabilities. The system responds to changing road conditions and/or driving styles by applying a variable damping force within the defined range for the selected mode (“Normal” or “Sport”). To do that, PASM uses a series of sensors that monitor all movements of the car's body. The PASM control unit then evaluates this data and modifies the damping force on each of the wheels. The results are a reduction in pitch and roll as well as consistent road-holding on all four wheels." It would appear that Porsche has gone to great lengths to optimize spring rates and ride height. Lowering the car with shorter springs would effectively reduce the PASM envelope of operation, and may result in substantially firmer ride and less progressive control of body movements and weight shifts as the car corners. Assuming you have outstanding driving skills, you may experience more radical handling tendencies when on the limit at the track - these may or may not be what you are looking for. Whatever you decide, make sure it is something you can live with!

You should be able to get them done at a reputable, local electroplating shop for about $20 - $40 each. The prep time to polish them smooth is the key - any small surface irregularities will show after chroming. Too thin a plating deposition will result in peeling as well. Do some web searches for platers in your area that specialize on auto work.

Yes, it comes in at 3150 rpm.............

Your dealer or auto electrician can perform a cold cranking amperage draw test - to see if the battery is delivering the correct amperage to the starter motor. It could be that your starter is simply in need of repair or replacement. They should also check the alternator charge rate to make sure that current back to the battery is to specification.

Not sure if they are legal in the UK, but you can have these exact mods done by a good local exhaust shop on your own mufflers for probably less than 250 quid. Print off the image, take it to your local exhaust experts, ask them how much to add a tube as shown, ask them to weld the finished product as perfectly as possible and see what the price is.

Clutch?

Unfortunately, temp will not make a difference..........take it to your dealer and have them rectify the problem - and determine if it is in fact the RMS.

Oil capacity in the late model 996 is approximately 10 quarts with a filter change. The recommended oil types are synthetic (Mobil1 0w40 is just one Porsche approved oil) - oils and engines have come a long way since the 3 months/3000 miles adage of years ago. If you want to be particular, change the engine oil and filter every 6 months/7500 miles. As for the gearbox - you could do the changes at 30k miles just for your own peace of mind. The clutch life is almost completely dependent on how you drive........slippage is the most practical indicator. Enjoy!

By unheated storage, the assumption is that it will be in a garage......... Look at the max. pressure listed on the sidewall of your tires - it should be around 58psi........pump them up to this max pressure - whatever it is. This information on cold storage may be in your owner's manual. Close all vents/sunroof - you may also want to insert rags soaked in WD40 into the tail pipe to prevent rodents from nesting there (be careful if you start the car/removal of the rags will be extremely necessary!) Use mouse/rat traps so they aren't tempted to nibble on any wiring. Change the engine oil and install a new oil filter. If you'd like, buy some silica gell dessicant bags and place them on a thick rag located on the carpet flooring - these will absorb humidity, although knowing your area, moisture is probably not an issue. Leave the car on its tires (do not jack up, as the shock absorber rods which are hard chromed could oxidise - ruining the seals upon compression in the spring!) Move the car forwards/backwards every 3 - 4 weeks so that the tires set on a slightly different spot - resulting in the lowest chance to get flat spots on the tires. Buy a good battery maintainer (trickle charger) that will maintain the battery in a "float" state - where it will keep the battery at its optimum state of charge without fear of cooking it dry (check the battery acid levels before you do this - if low, do what it says in the manual - fill with distilled water) You may also want to change the air filter on the engine - or maybe not if it is clean or was recently replaced. You should be OK with these suggestions - I do the same with our 04 here in Chicago.

I don't know the overall dimensions of the antenna - but here are some thoughts..... Between the foot of the windshield, and the top of the hood where it meets the wiper arms, there is a large black plastic cover that runs the entire width of the windshield. You could take off the wiper arms, and using care, remove the tabs that hide the mounting bolts that keep this cover in place over the wiper arm mechanism. There could be enough space under this cover - it gets mostly full exposure to the sky, is not covered by the hood, it would cover your antenna completely - all you need to do is make sure that the antenna/cable will not interfere with anything else under there. Another place might be inside one headlight assembly - as far forward as possible, if dimensions allow, hidden where it is not visible through the lens.

Try www.wheelenhancement.com Give them a call...............

If all is the same, and you are driving it about the same - it would seem that all is OK since the consumption you state is within spec. I have noticed on our 04 40th that oil consumption seems to vary - city driving it is more pronounced, longer distance virtually negligable. If you don't have thick black soot in the exhaust pipes, white smoke, low oil pressure, significant oil leaks - you should be OK.

Has anything changed in terms of the oil you use? Different viscosity? You posted about using 5W30 a while ago - ?

I have searched all (I think) coolant subjects on this forum - maybe this is unique: The main large diameter coolant hose that connects to the bottom rear of the driver's side of the engine, exhibits a 1 drop per month leak. No big deal. I have two stainless hose clamps on it - after removing the original spring clip thinking this update would solve the problem - but it hasn't. It appears to me - and I have checked all points above the connection to make sure nothing is leaking from above - that I might have a porous casting issue with the cast hose housing, or maybe the hose can't seal around the casting because of any remaining "flashing" left on the casting - thus letting a tiny amount of fluid past. Bottom line: How much coolant will I get coming out of the bottom of the engine if I remove this hose - and if I do remove it and refill the coolant via the expansion tank, will it be nigh on impossible to purge the air out of the system. It is an 04 40th 996 - so it is under warranty - just wanted to know if this is relatively simple, or should I just take it to the dealer....... Comments and suggestions appreciated.

Info should be in your owner's manual.........996 one suggests: Plug in battery to maintainer Put 58 psi air into tires Close it up If dampness is an issue - buy silica gel (dessicant) bags and place in interior (put these on a thick terry cloth - not directly on your leather/carpet) Move the car every two weeks or so (roll forwards/backwards to another resting point) to avoid flat spots on tires Critters (small ones) have a habit of building nests in the exhaust outlets/chewing wiring harnesses - not sure if this is an issue for your location - if so, use bait. Do not jack up the car - exposing the full extended travel of the shock absorber rods may cause them to develop minor surface corrosion - which then ruins your shock seals when you lower the car again for warmer weather. You have the option of starting the car every couple of weeks - get it to operating temp - or not at all. I am sure others have alternative views on winter storage.

Has anyone checked the position of the fuel pick up in the tank/fuel baffle position? Sounds like the momentum of fuel in the tank moving away from the pick up could be causing some starvation...............or a check valve function in the pump/lines may not be working as designed. Downstream issue could also be a fuel filter problem. A final check would be water build up in the fuel tank - being heavier than fuel it spends its time at the bottom of the tank.

If you check when cool, the oil is not in its heated/expanded state - so it will read lower on the dipstick/gauge........Cold = underestimate This also means that when cold, and if the oil reads to the full mark on the dipstick/gauge - it will become overfull when hot.

Ron, I live in Chicago - but I think you should get on your exampled dealer website and ask/e-mail them if they have any specials........I think most dealers use the Porsche recommended list prices.........

Much appreciated.