1999Porsche911

Have you tried changing to a better quality oil?

It can take as long as 15 - 20 minutes to get the engine up to 190F. If your thermostat was stuck open, it would only add about 10 minutes to the process driving around town. Highway speed will increase the warmup time.

Run rear tires at 44 psi. I would check all wheel bolts and run out. Jack the car up so both tires are off the ground. Block front wheels. Turn off TC and run in first gear at idle. Make sure there is no obvious wobble.

What year car. The 99's relays are as follows: Radiator fan 1 - stage 1 Relay in slot 19 Radiator fan 1 - stage 2 Relay in slot 20 Radiator fan 2 - stage 1 Relay in slot 21 Radiator fan 2 - stage 2 Relay in slot 22

Just to add to the growing number of posts on K and N air chargers. I have had the same problems. CEL PSM and ABS lights on just after shutting off the throttle at high RPMS My Durametric showed P0102 and the voltage output of the MAF stayed low despite increase of RPM Two MAFs gone and the third being fedexed to me now..... So far an enthusiastic promise from K and N to investigate but no resolution so far. The two people I have spoken to at K and N say that they are not aware of a problem with their intake and the 996. This is strange as I've now seen other posts from other 996 owners with the same problem who have contacted K and N for help. The K and N web site has some pretty convincing videos that indicate that filter oil is not contaminating MAFs so I begin to wonder if there is some other flaw in the design of the K and N air charger? I have never heard of anyone having a problem after fitting a K and N filter in the original Porsche airbox. It seems to be only in cases where the cold air intake kit is fitted. It must be difficult for K and N to take into account the characteristics of every manufacturer's MAF but given that this product has been on the market for at least a year and they must have had several customers calling with issues so I'm surprised that they do not have an answer. Obviously I am really unimpressed with this whole issue and would not be surprised if I soon have to replace all the original airbox parts. You are burning out your MAF, not because of oil but because of current. You are getting too much air past the MAF casuing the burn out over time. Why don't you guys take a reading of the MAF at WOT and redline. Seems to me if someone changes their intake system they would want to know how the mod effects the engine? :o

Use the Shell. And yes, the tranny and axle share the same lube and filling the 1 fill hole in the tranny takes care of both.

I have no knowledge specific to the Durametric software, but the reading on the before sensors is well within range. The after cat sensors should also be within the same range. The precat sensors measure the air:fuel mixture as it comes from the engine and reports the level by way of a voltage. The range is between 0 - 0.90 volts. (+/-). The target for the precat sensor is 0.45 volts which is the targetted air:fuel ratio of 14.7:1). Voltage below 0.45 signals the computer that the engine is running lean and the computer will compensate by adding fuel. Voltage above 0.45 and the computer will reduce fuel. The aftercat sensors read the air:fuel mixture after it has passed through the CATS. The computer does nothing with the reading except report an error if the reading is out of a predetermined range. The voltage range is also the same as the precat sensors, 0 - 0.90 volts with 0.45 volts reporting 14.7:1. In your case, check the settings on the Durametric. I don't know if they are adjustable, but it appears you are not reporting voltage on the aftercat sensors. Many scanners can also show LAMBDA numbers in which "1" represents a 14.7"1 air:fuel ratio. Lower = richer and higher = leaner. This style of reporting can easily be used to determine your air:fuel ratio by taking the reported number and multiplying it by 14.7. i.e. a reading of 1.02 would mean that your engine is running lean with a air:fuel mixture of 15:1 (14.7 x 1.02) IMO, reading the voltages is much easier.

IMO, I would not get a 996 for your only car. Forget your concerns about dependability. It is just not practicle if it is your only one. Get a car that can seat at least 4 people.

Alright, I did it. I ordered a Durametric. I did it quickly like a bandaid. I did it before deciding if I wanted to or not. It kind of stings now. Thanks for the suggestion 1999Porsche911. (Durametric is what people would recommend, right?) Still though, does anybody have experience messing with the MAF harness connector? Any ideas on getting just the connector instead of the whole harness? No need for a new connector. There are only 5 wires. Check that they are tight and repair as necessary. It is always best to also clean the connector contacts when you clean the MAF.

If you needed glasses to see, wouldn't you get eyeglasses? I suggest you go out and invest in a good generic scanner so you can not only see the codes but also the actions of the sensors. Why guess when you don't have too?

Is there a specific reason you are replacing the DMF? They seldom need replacing unless a spring breaks. Complete clutch kit replacement, including parts can run as low as $1200. (No flywheel)

I would not buy a single screw driver before I got a generic scanner for all my OBD2 cars. No sense in working on a car blind.

It's not the clearance you should be focusing on but the distance from the center of the wheels to the very front of the lower bumper.

Typically, a bad throwout bearing will only make noise when the clutch is disengaged (pedal depressed). Since your noise goes away when you drepress the clutch pedal, it is highky unlikely it is the throwout bearing. My first goal would be to determine for sure whether the noise is from the engine or bellhousing. If engine, it could be a bad belt, pulley or power steering pump. If the bellhousing, and it makes noise when in neutral and clutch engaged and disappears as you depress the clutch pedal, it may be a bad gear bearing.

Whatever high volume station offers 93 octane the cheapest.

No, they should be consistantly quiet. Prone to broken spring which can cause a rattle.

Clean the MAF and Idle Control Valve. Check for small vacuum leaks. If you have a scanner, check the reading of the throttle position sensor at WOT. If not 100%, remove throttle cable from throttlebody and twist it 1 - 2 turns and reconnect,. Check again.

Alignment shop will do it. It should have been checked when the alignment was done.

It depends on what Prestone fluid you used. They make one that is fully compatabe with the Porsche coolant. I use PEAK Lifetime 50/50 rather than the premium priced Porsche packaged fluid. http://www.peakantifreeze.com/peak_global_lifetime_5050.html I believe the Porsche coolant is not diluted and needs to be mixed with distilled water. If you added the wrong kind of coolant, I suggest you flush the system competely. The system holds around 6 gallons of fluid.

A picture of where it is leaking from would be helpful. Sounds like the cam actuator cover to me and that would be an oil leak, which is common.. As far as the coolant; exactly which Prestone coolant did you use?

The sensor is located below the power steering pump all the way at the bottom of the engine below the inlet hose. Get on your back and get under the back of the car below the passenger side bumperette and look straight up. You see the small 4 pin sensor with cable connected to it. It is about a $25 part. Disconnect the connector, remove the sensor (catching the coolant as it comes out), and replace. Filter the coolant through a coffee filter and pour back into the coolant tank. Bleed system.

Loren, what makes the pedal harder when the clutch disc is worn? Leverage. As the disc wears, the pressure plate's fingers extend further as the clutch is engauged, changing the angle of the clutch release lever against the throwout bearing. In most cases, expecially with a hydraulic clucth, the increase in needed clutch pedal pressure is not noticeable.

There are several springs on the flywheel that sometimes break, often causing a rattle and abrupt clutch engagement. Putting the car up on a lift and then shutting it down will make it easier to identify where the noise is coming from. If a spring is broken, it is a warranty covered item.

Sounds like your rear camber is setup fine with factory specs. The specs call for an aggressive (for street) negative camber to improve corner handling. This dictates that the rear tires ride more on the inside half of the rubber when driving straight, causing that area to wear sooner. For non track driving, you can dial down the amount of negative camber and reduce this tire wear. If your are tracking the car, as you stated, this camber setting greatly improves your cornering ability. 11,000 miles is a lot of miles to get out of your rear tires, anyway.

Could be belt or a pulley. Quickest way to test is to remove the belt and try it. If there is no noise, then change the belt. If noise comes back with new belt, it may be the tensioner pulley. Costs about $60. Obviously, do not take a long leisurely drive without the belt on as you will have no water pump or power steering function. Test it on a cold engine.