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1999Porsche911

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Everything posted by 1999Porsche911

  1. Remove the alternator, throttlebody and both intake crossover tubes to gain access to the starter. Not difficult, but will take some time to get to. Be smart and make sure you disconnect the battery. Take some digital pictures as you proceed and it will save you time when you reassemble.
  2. .7 mm is fine. You would have trouble at high engine speeds if you gapped them to 1.6 mm, IF the engine would even start. Larger gap also increases radio interference. I gap mine to less than .6 mm. (.022) No need to use the 4 electrode plugs. The 2 electrode NGK plugs work just as well.
  3. There is a new design for the release lever and slave. If you changed the clutch, you should have completed the TSB instructions for replacing the release lever. The height of the pedal is controlled by the boost spring on the pedal assembly which is also know to cause problems. Don't forget to pull the pedal all the way to the top after bleeding.
  4. The ONLY way is to drive the car. If it never blows up, it was not a ticking time bomb. If it does blow up, it was. Either way, you find your answer. Kinda like going to the doctor and getting a clean bill of health. It doesn't mean you won't have a massive stroke on your way out of the office.
  5. Never store a car suspended with it's suspension hanging. Not only do you increase the risk of the dampers beginning to leak, but unless you thoroughly grease the pistons, they will rust and then they are sure to leak. If it must be off the floor, support it so the car is fully sitting on the suspension.
  6. I was refering to an engine that was already up to full operating temperature. Once fully warmed, the oil temperature will very closely mirror the percentage change in coolant temperature. Without a water cooled oil cooler, oil tempertures will spike much higher than the coolant during heavy engine loads. In most cases, the 996 engine takes considerably longer than 5 km to reach its target temperature of 90C.
  7. You can order several online. Search and you'll find out what many here use. This is a good one IMO: http://www.autoenginuity.com/
  8. Don't forget, the 82C that you state to be "normal" is, in fact, incorrect. The thermostat on your engine is 83C and the computer targets the coolant temp to be aropund 90C. As a matter of fact, many sensors will not report accurate faults if engine temp is below 90C. In the real world, although it can be corrected with the appropriate mods, your engine temperature is closer to 94C in best of conditions, other than highway driving. Often, your engine temperature will reach in excess of 100C. With a properly functioning oil cooler, your oil temps are directly related to your coolant temperature. Properly manage your coolant temps and your oil temps will be fine.
  9. I asume you have a scanner? Take a look at the the following readings at idle, AC off on a fully warm engine: MAF Calculated load STFT and LTFT for both banks also check that your before cat O2 sensors are cycling every second or so from low to high voltage.
  10. You can visually check the hoses in the engine bay to make sure they look ok and are connected properly. Also check for leaks betwwen the air filter housing and the throttlebody. Since you have a 99 C2, also remove and clean the ICV (Idle control valve) that is connected to the left side of the throttlebody by 2 screwes. Removed (saving gasket for reuse) and liberally spray with carb cleaner. Clean you're throttlebody while you're at it. Jim
  11. Check to make sure that there are no intake leaks or vaccum leaks. Check oil cap is on properly. Run a can a fuel injector cleaner through the gas tank and clean the MAF. If you had a scanner, you could get closer to identifying the problem. There are many other things that can cause those codes, including exhaust leak ahead of the sensors (unlikely), fule pressure or flow too low (also unlikely). BTW: Don't just replace the O2 sensors when they report a probem. They are simply doing their job.
  12. Do you have the box off the engine? Otherwsie, how do you know what the freeplay of the lever is?
  13. Make sure you check the obvious: Intake leaks, vacuum leaks, oil filler cap. I would also throw a can of injector cleaner in the tank. Learn to use your scanner and identify normal sensor readings.
  14. You can simply add PEAK Lifetime coolant to the Porsche coolant. Pick it up at Napa and other places in the 50/50 mix for $9.99/gal.
  15. Confusing at first because of the engine's orientation, but looks like the connection for the brake booster.
  16. You don't need to remove the wheels, mufflers, bumper or anything but the heat shield to get to the plugs on either bank. Just jack the car up so you can fit under the engine and you can see all coils. Dexterity is the key for a few of them. Once you have done it once, it takes no longer than 1 hour to perform again.
  17. "doesn't want to shift into 3rd gear" is a little more than simply normal stiffness. It is a problem.
  18. The car has a new 400 hp 3.8 x51 motor so we needed to upgrade to a stronger clutch, we went with unsprung and full face organic as sachs told us with the flex in the drivetrian inheirant in 99-2000 car's we should be fine. I will ask about the lever thanks. "Flex in the drivetrain"???????? Just what exactly flexes in the drivetrain that is NOT bad for the drivetrain? When you pull it apart again, throw in a sprung disc and save your bearings. 400hp is hardly too much for the stock clutch setup.
  19. The 99's had a problem with the clutch release lever. If you did not replace it with the new design, that is very likely your problem. It get's hung up at times, especially on quick clutch engagement. There is a TSB covering this. The TSB decribes it as a noise problem only so Porshe did not have to issue a recall. Clutch can be changed without dropping engine. I also don't understand why on earth you would install an unsprung clutch kit on the 996. You sure are placing alot of unecessary stress on various componants for no reason.
  20. The transmission should not have any problems going into any gear when cold. It may be slightly tighter, but should still slide in with a little extra pressure. Otherwise, use your warranty and get it corrected.
  21. Why do you think you have a bad MAF? What are your symptoms and error codes? I have more than 60,000 miles on m 99 MAF and run an oiled filter with a blower.
  22. I'll let Manthey, JZM, and the Rupert Lewin Racing team that they were wrong on filling the coolant with the engine running ;) That's good. Even professionals can learn somethng new every once in awhile. :D
  23. Other than wasting fuel and going nowhere, it makes no difference.
  24. If you fill up with coolant on a hot engine, you will be low on coolant when the engine cools. The tank is an expansion tank as the coolant expands considerably when warm. You also do not want the engine running. It is best to fill the engine with coolant with the engine off and the vent open. The colder the coolant, the better. The tank is at the highest point in the system and letting it sit for several minutes between fills with the vent open will allow the coolant to reach most parts of the system. Once the tank is full, be patient and it will slowly empty as the liquid fills the system. Once gravity has done it's job and the tank level is stable put the coolant cap on, start the car and run to operating temperature. Turn it off and let it cool for an hour or more. Remove the cap and fill the tank again, keeping the vent open. Close it up and take it for another run to full operating temperature. Let it sit overnight and refill the tank in the morning. HINT: It is best, but not necessary, to fill the system with the front of the car pointing down a hill. This helps eliminate air being trapped in the system and minimizes the number of top offs you will have to do.
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