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1999Porsche911

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Everything posted by 1999Porsche911

  1. If, after installing the new filter the current increases too much because of the increased airflow, put a low ohm resister inline to the MAF wire. This will reduce the current but not airflow. The stock DME sets the engine to run slightly rich at WOT, so this will lean it out very slightly, giving you additional power at the top end and less of a risk of putting to much current through the MAF.
  2. You have been misinformed about the non-egas maf failing more than others. You can take your MAF and soak it in oil overnight, clean it up and it will be exactly as it was before the soaking. All maf's need cleaning periodically if they are exposed to oils, but the oil will not ruin them. If you are frying maf's, regardless of what filter you are using, you have a voltage (current) problem and nothing else.
  3. Your ECU never leaves learning mode. It adjusts for most changes immediately and a few take a couple of drive cycles. If you want to clear out any potential errors in the computer and your fuel trim, etc, simply disconnect the ground on the battery for a few monutes and you are good to go.
  4. Buy difference jeans. My designer jeans (LEVI) don't cause a problem.
  5. A sudden drop to ZERO on the guage is a guarantee that there is NOT a pressure problem with the oil in your engine and it is either the gauge (unlikely) or (more likey) as mentioned above, the oil sending unit or connections. It would take a blown rod or similar malfunction that blew a hole in the lower end of the engine to get an instant drop in oil pressure. Obviously, this did not happen to your car, so I would sleep well and just find out what is causing it to report wrong Information.
  6. For cars that don't get driven often, I do not run a full synthetic oil in the engine. They have not yet found the correct formulation to protect the seals. Mobil 1 is the worse. I use either a synthetic/mineral oil blend (Castrol) or, at minumum, use a seal conditioner. This will greatly reduce your risk of leaks, including your RMS.
  7. Those 2 lines are to control the resonance flap on the back crossover intake tube. They start at the electric changeover valve (behind alternator) and one goes to the vacuum reserve canister and the other to the flap.
  8. If you can find 2 3.6 mufflers, get them. You'll love the improved sound.
  9. I was hoping to just pull the fuel relay to keep it from starting and using the key to crank, I do need to get oil to the engine and SC prior to engine start it has been sitting for over a year. I'm guessing hear but none of my fuses have burned since I put power to the car so I am assuming that it is ok to install computers. This is embarrasing but here goes, how do you open the gas filler door I do not see any pull handle anywhere I need to test for water in the gas tank or should say how much there is. If the doors are unlocked, the gas door should just pivot open when pressed on the part towards the front. That is, unless not having the alarm system hooked up defaults to locking it. Maybe Loren knows for sure.
  10. If you just want the engine crank, run jumpers from the starter and crank way. Engine won't start but will crank fine.
  11. Have you changed fluid? Have you visually inspected both the cables on the side of the tranny and the shifter cables/mechanism for binding? I would eliminate these tems as the cause before even thinking that the problem is internal.
  12. Take the car out and get to an area where you can accelerate and brake repeatedly. Get the car up to 50 or so and then evenly apply the brakes until almost stopped. DO NOT keep you foot on the brake pedal when you are stopped (unless you HAVE to). Repeat several times, inceasing the pressure you apply to the brake pedal. A couple of hard braking applications will complete the break in. Now enjoy the car. You can also drive the car while applying the brakes lightly while driving. Keep doing this for several miles increasing the pressure to the pedal. The idea is to get the brakes hot and seated without letting the pads sit still against the rotor. No further break in is necessary.
  13. It sure does. Both banks are monitored the same. Actually, hes right. I just noticed both he and the original poster both have ROW cars. For whatever reason, ROW cars do not monitor the bank 2 intake cam, only US cars do. So, are you saying there is not a cam sensor on bank 2 for the ROW engines? That's strange. I wasn't even think emissions. I would think that they would still need a sensor to reportng the position of the cam since the controls are completely seperate for each bank. Since timing is electronically controlled, they have to have some sensor on both banks in order to determine valve lift. Parts list shows one sensor for each bank, even on ROW.
  14. It sure does. Both banks are monitored the same. Actually, hes right. I just noticed both he and the original poster both have ROW cars. For whatever reason, ROW cars do not monitor the bank 2 intake cam, only US cars do. So, are you saying there is not a cam sensor on bank 2 for the ROW engines? That's strange.
  15. Top of the engine, under the back crossover tube on the intake.
  16. Your shop guy is right. As they break, just remove them and tie off the wires.
  17. Your O2 sesnors are reporting that your engine is running too lean. In addition to cleaning MAF, check you intake ductwork to make sure there are no leaks along with vaccum lines.
  18. I took mine off 4 - 5 years ago. Clutch feel and control is much better, Here is a picture of the pedal assembly. Booster spring is #13. Make sure you lock the spring in place by inserting a pin or nail in the piston sticking out of the housing BEFORE you remove it so the spring does not pop out of the housing.
  19. There is a air/electric vent line that goes to the throttlebody just above the alternator (EGR Valve). This may be the normal clicking you hear. Unplug the electrical cable to it and see if the noise stops. Otherwise, eliminate all belt driven assesories by removing sepentine belt.
  20. I see you have the PSE mufflers...or are those the MKII muffler modification? I have a new set of the MKII mufflers to install on my 99. Would you say that the fender is easy enough to get off that it would facilitate a muffler install by taking off the fenders like you did? Is there a DIY for fender removal? I have never had the bumper or fenders off and don't know where all the nuts and bolts are. Nothing has to come off for putting mufflers on either. Not even the wheels. Just jack the side of the car up, remove the 3 muffler nuts loosen 2 nuts on CAT clamp and the mufler will slide right out behind the wheels.
  21. You do not need to remove anything to get to the tubes. Mufflers and bumper stay on. Tubes often come out by simply inserting your thumb or finger, bending it firmly and pulling. Adds a few minutes to a spark plug change. No sealant is used.
  22. Why bother - I just use the classic X pattern rotation... Steering is a little odd, but its great on tire life... :soapbox: :clapping: :D You cannot rotate them in the X pattern since the front and back tires are of a different size. ONLY removal of back tires from the rim and reversing them will help even out the inside wear, but why bother?
  23. Yes, it is absolutely necessary to periodically change the coolant. There is breakdown, acid buildup as well as debris floating around in it. 3 - 4 years.
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