Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

1999Porsche911

Members
  • Posts

    907
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 1999Porsche911

  1. That is interesting and if your engine is not modified, I would like to know if a rev 2 can happen in your car without mechanically forcing it to happen, such as a downshift. If it is true, and your software is showing you what the PST2 does, then I would get to the dealer and see if you can duplicate a type 2 overrev by simply bouncing off the rev limiter. If you can, then Porsche may have a problem denying blown engine claims simply because of Rev 2 indication. If the dealer can duplicate a Rev 2 like that, I sure wouldn't have them do anything to the car until you get them to ACKNOWLEDGE WHAT HAPPENS IN WRITING. If your engine is modified, you're SOL. My understanding is that a REV 2 will only occur at a specific rpm above an established number which should be higher than the fuel cutoff should allow to happen.
  2. Remove the battery cover and take a look at the hose connection against the firewall. It is probably leaking under the car is it is disconected.
  3. Actually, it is the outside temperature sensor which is displayed on your dash. :rolleyes:
  4. That indicates that you have a MALE 911. It should get smaller as the temperatuyre drops. It should not leak anything until the car gets quite a bit older.
  5. Open the drawers, grasp with your hands and pull firmly. The unit will pop right out.
  6. Personally, I would not accept it. However, to help protect yourself, and I am assuming you are under warranty, I would make sure each and every quart of oil you have to add is documented at the dealer with the number of miles driven. It will be a pain in the *** at times, but getting a service order showing that the dealer acknowledges the oil loss may help protect you if an engine failure occurs down the road. It may also frustrate the dealer enough to fix it before then. JMO.
  7. You can eliminate a couple of things easily. Make sure A/C is off before starting. Remove serpentine belt before starting. If noise remains, it is not any of the pulleys. Does it make the noise every morning on cold start and then fine for the remainder of the day? If so, and I know this sounds crazy but bear with me: try pulling into your garage, forward and driving the front wheels up on 2 x 6's so the back of the car is substantially lower than the front. Then see if the noise changes the next morning. Whatever the cause, there should be no rattling or knocking at startup.
  8. IMO< the best thing you can do is make sure you are not running 0W40. Switch to another approved weight such as 5W40.
  9. The vent valves all make noise, some louder than others. You should not hear it from the cab. It is located directly above the alternator and feeds to the throttlebody. You can disconnect the electrical connection to it to confirm that this is the noise you are hearing.
  10. Unfortunately, this is a problem that has occurred before. Personally, especially since they want $13,000 for a new engine, I would either personally take the engine apart or have someone else do so and video tape the entire process. I would want to know EXACTLY what caused the problem and if in fact it was a pourous block or slipped sleeve, you can bet that Porsche would replace the entire engine, free of material and labor charges as well as the cost of disassembly of the bad engine. The video of the bad engine would make fro a great show on the worldwide stage of YOUTUBE. :cheers: Short of doing the above at the risk of finding out that it was not caused by a manufacturer's defect and having to pay for a new engine anyway and also absorb the cost of identifying the problem, your best choice is probably just having the engine replaced and never knowing what the cause of the problem was. If there was leakage of water into the cylinders because of a leaky head gasket, you would have had more than enough warning of a problem before engine damage occured. Did you have any steam out of the exhaust? The price I heard for engine replacement is closer to $10,000.
  11. The Bridgestone Petenza's are a good tire in dry or wet. If you do not track the car, get the stock pads and rotors (if you need rotors). They make no noise.
  12. Your tire wear does not necessarily indicate your pressure is wrong at all. Sounds more like you are running a close to neutral camber in the rear. An allignment set within Porsche' specs would MANDATE that the tires wear more on the inside half when driven on the street or highway. Running excessively high tire pressure on this setup would still wear the inside of the tires first. When alignment is with specs, and you drive on the street and/or highway, you will NEVER, EVER wear the outside half of the rear tires before wearing down to the belts on the inside half of the tires. Running a neutral camber is not a good idea as it will greatly reduce the handling of the car. Your tires will last longer, but you will not be able to drive as aggressively as you could with a proper allignment. You may also expereince backend wobble in the rain. Many owners who only drive the car around town or long trips reduce the camber settings to save on tires. I would NOT recommend going to a camber of less than the minimum spec. I run at the low end of the spec and it still handles fine on the street and I get a little more mileage out of the rear tires. I suggest you take the car to an allignment shop of your choice and have them throw it on the machine. Have them print out the current settings so you can see what they are. Compare them to what is recommended and have them dial the rear camber down to the minumum.
  13. Probably just your brake shoe rubbing inside the rear disc. When you replace the discs, check the shoes and associated assembly.
  14. The car was not tilted; I watched him fill it until it started to spill out, so I don't know what to tell you... Well, then only one of 2 things could have happened. He didn't put in 5 liters or he used a hole higher in the transmission to fill it through. Believe me, if you had 2 extra liters of lube in the tranny, you would feel it in the sluggishness when shifting and driving, especialy when cold and will destroy the synco's prematurely. I would check it out. Remove the correct fill plug and if nothing comes out, you have less than 3 liters in it.
  15. You cannot fit more than 3 liters in the tranny unless the car is tilted to the right. If he did in fact put 5 liters in it somehow, better get it drained soon or you WILL have some severve tranny problems down the road..
  16. Does it do it if you simply throw the clutch pedal to the floor, or only when decreasing speed in gear and clutch engaged? Only when clutch to the floor while accelerating and max rev's. At the point of upward gear change in second! Lets me make sure I understand this. You can go to 8000 rpm in first gear and let up on the gas without pressing the clutch in and everything is fine. If you do the same thing, but press the clutch pedal in, the car will move to the right? That sure doesn't sound possible to me unless you have a real strange behavior with the LSD. It would make more sense if it pulled when decelerating whether the clutch was engaged or not. A dragging brake would do it both ways. So would allignment or low tire pressure. Are you sure it doesn't do the same thing s you take the car to 8000 and simply let you foot off the gas pedal? If it only does it when the tranny is not engaged as you state, your car if free wheeling unless the LSD gets stuck to one side causing the drag of the right axle. I would suspect that a broken sway bar or other suspension componant would also show itself whether you were in gear or not. Does it do the same on your 2nd to 3rd gear shift? How many miles on the car? Does the car want to pull slightly to the left when taking it to 8000 under full throttle in 1st gear?
  17. Does it do it if you simply throw the clutch pedal to the floor, or only when decreasing speed in gear and clutch engaged?
  18. Check the air pressure in the right back rear tire. When letting up on the gas, low pressure in a rear tire will pull the car to the side of the low pressure tire. If tire pressure is the problem, the car should pull to the low side whenever you let you on the gas at any moderate or higher engine speed.
  19. Yes. With home made CD's the problem occurs. I tried it with CD's from the record store & they play with no problem. Is there a trick to making home made CD's work in the CD player? (It's not pirated music, it's recorded guest speakers). Are you using Roxio by chance? The best way to get all data to a CD is to first burn your music to the hard drive as an ISO file. Then burn the ISO file to the CD. Also, you can never burn a CD too slowly. Jim
  20. The P0446 indicates that you evap canister purge line is blocked, but sometimes this is a false fault. the P0506 indicates that your ICV is stuck in the open position and needs cleaning or replacement. I would remove ICV and clean it, checking that the valve moves freely. Reset computer and see what happens.
  21. In addition to cleaning the MAF, remove the idle control valve (ICV) from the left side of the throttlebody and clean it with carb cleaner. Also check all vacuum lines and intake connections and make sure they are connected and tight.
  22. The suggestion was to use an additive to swell the seals and then change your oil to a 5W50 or 15W50. Claims that the oil in moderate temperatures will not get to engine componants as fast is as old as oil is and, even tho not true, has become accepted as fact. The fact is that the thicker oil in moderate temperature at time of a cold startup will flow the same volume of oil, just as quickly as will a less viscious oil. You oil pump is a positive displacement pump and moves a specific volume of oil, regardless of thickness. Didn't anyone here ever conduct the flow test in lab in high school? Within reason (in this case, very cold temps) A 15W50 oil driven through a 50 foot 1/8 inch tube will reach the outlet at the same time as will a 0W40 oil when driven by a crank powered positive displacement pump. Pressure is higher using the 15W50, but flow is equal. If you are opposed to using the proper seal additive before you change your oil, simply add a quart of any viscosity dyno oil and drive the car for a week,
  23. Well, the first thing I would do is find out what all the sensors reading are on the engine. This should have been collected by the dealer or you can get the info from your own scanner. Record LTFT, STFT, MAF, engine load, timing, intake temp and coolant temp at idle on warm engine. Also, record the after cat O2 sensor readings at warm idle for both banks. From this info, we may be able to better see what the engine is doing, if anything, differently from one bank to the other. A vacuum check will show valve problems, but this is beyond the most modern day mechanics as they have never been taught how an engine works, but only on how to read a computer printout. What is the measured voltage output from the alternator on warm engine at idle?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.