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1999Porsche911

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Everything posted by 1999Porsche911

  1. Make sure that you are looking at the BEFORE CAT O2 sensors and not the after cats. They should be cycling high/low once the car has gone cclosed loop. You after cat sensors will be more steady, either high, low or anywhere in between.
  2. You do not need to raise the car at all. If you want a few more inches of room, simply drive the rear wheels onto a 2 by 6 and you'll have enough room for a tea party under the back of the car.
  3. Sounds like the protocol of the USB port on yor computer. Check with tech as USB ports can be a pain to setup with proper emulation. I use just the opposite connection. I go from USB to serial cable using an adapter. Even finding an adapter to work properly was a pain in the *** and took 3 -4 purchases until I found the right one. Have you tried their serial cable?
  4. As mentioned above, check for leaks in the intake system. including throttlebody, oil cap, etc. When you get your scanner working, take a look at the O2 sensor readings at idle and if the system has the ability, log them from idle up to 6000 rpm while driving at half throttle. Are you running the stock exhaust? If you want to check something in the meantime, remove air cleaner cover and put a piece of cardboard over approximately 1/3 of the air filter to reduce air to the engine. Reset codes and take it for a drive. Do the lights come back on again?
  5. No, but you have to drop the tranny to change it just as you would for a clutch replacement. It cannot be accessed from the side of the bellhousing like many of the old cars.
  6. A bad clutch release lever in the early 996's can contribute to early clutch slippage and wear. Make sure that the appropriate TSB which calls for replacement of this lever is carried out if you change the clutch. Adds about $50 to the price of a clutch change. Otherwise, you may have clutch slippage immediately with the new clutch.
  7. When your coolant temperature is below around 200F (don't have the exact temp at my finger tips) turning the A/C on will only turn on the LOW SPEED FANS. If your high speed fans come on, something is wrong. If you have never heard the high speed fans, you might mistaken the low speed for high speed. However, when the high speed is on, you will definately know. Test the high speed fan by grounding the appropriate fan relay and you'll hear what high speed sounds like.
  8. The fans do not go into high speed just beause the A/C is on. It must also meet the engine temperature requirement. So get the engine hotter and try it. You might also switch the low and high speed fan relays to see if there is a problem with one of them. Relays 19 and 21(low) and 20 and 22(high).
  9. Wow, that sounds excessive. So if I use the car as my daily, figure 15k miles/year = $13,500 year? Here is an example of cost for a Turbo: ASSUMPTIONS Vehicle cost: $120,000 Driven for 10 years Car value after 10 years is $60,000 10,000 miles a year Tires last 20,000 miles 4 tires cost $1500 Clutch every 75,000 miles @ $2,000 each Oil change every 7,500 miles at $120 each Annual insurance of $750 Cost of money 5% 18 mpg average at $2.75/gallon Brakes every 50,000 miles at $600 each time With the above costs (which are rock bottom), which EXCLUDES any mods and out of warranty repairs, air filters, lube changes, alignments, car washes, and the like, your per mile cost is more than $1.55. This also assumes that you would only lose 50% of the car’s value when you sell it after 10 years. It also assumes that you do not pay dealer prices for maintenance. If you do, then obviously, your per mile cost will rise.
  10. At minimum, figure it will cost you 90 cents per miles for routine maintenance brakes, tires, clutch oil), carrying cost of purchase price and gas.
  11. It won't make any difference performance wise. If it bothers you. wrap alluminum foil around the section of the pipe that is smaller and then put the clamp on it. This will stop the leak.
  12. No need to touch dash. Call Safelight and have them send out someone that know what they are doing. Have them get the trim for you to.
  13. Don't lose any sleep over it. You didn't drive the car once the light came on and chances are very good that absolutly no damage was done.
  14. Depends. If you did not lose coolant, chances are that there was no damage as 250F coolant is not dangerous to engine componants. If you also lost coolant, then the odds of damage go up as you may have left vital parts of the engine dry, which means the temperature in that area may have exceeded safe levels. My guess is you will be perfectly fine. Just throw in a new pump and be on your way.
  15. Ahso say the blind man, I tinks I'll be sticken with the shell, do you use the Porsche approved 0w40? You talking to me? :) I would never use 0W40 in any car I cared about unless the climate was regularly very cold. But, you'll get just as many arguments for the stuff.
  16. Hi BG huh never heard of it. Where can you get it and is it a specialty oil like Lucas, or what's the difference between it and Shell? This is my exact problem, it has only jumped a couple of times but I just sit and wait for it to go into second which it has never grinded it only acts as though there is something in the way in the tranny. Thanks JR Stick with the Shell if you have LSD or you have to use an additive.
  17. Hey I will definately do this I may it just done at the shop is there a trans filter involved??? No filter.
  18. First thing I would do is, change the gear lube with Shell Transaxle Lube you can get at the dealer. A fresh oil can make a world of problems just disappear. Do not use Mobil gear lube or any other brand. Spend the $90 or so for 3 liters of Shell from the dealer.
  19. ATF fluid has long been used in gasoline peiodically for cleaning and freeing things up. You can also use it to lubricate and clean the intake and valve system by injecting some into the top of the engine. You can also us 1 part mineral spirits to 10 parts gasoline to help free up lazy parts. Neither will do any damage whatsoever to your fuel system of any oher part of your car. ATF is also good when storing a car with the plugs removed by injecting the fluid into the cylinders. I have no idea whether adding ATF to your tank will free up your noisey fuel pump, but doing so will not harm anything.
  20. Is that your calculated MPG or what the computer says? Don't go by the computer. I would have to try hard to get as low as13 mpg. At worse, I have seen 15.5 or so, but average 20+ and as much as 27 - 28 cruising at 85 highway. Do you use alot of oil?
  21. The Bank 1 cam position sensor is at the rear of the head (car rear, most accessible), but I haven't seen how bad it looks when the engine is in the car. The other bank's is at the front of the engine. Sensor for Bank 2 is located in the back of the engine, behind PS pump above cylinder #4.
  22. Verify that it is indeed the ICV by unplugging it. If it is the ICV, it should make no noise and needs replacing if the noise bothers you. You may first try cleaning it by removing and spaying with carb cleaner.
  23. What problems are you having and what codes are you getting. Depending on the codes, you can also have a failed actuator on one bank and the sensor is reporting correctly. P1530 / P1531 and/or P1524 / P1539 would indicate such a malfuntion.
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