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1999Porsche911

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Everything posted by 1999Porsche911

  1. 1999Porsche911
    Check to make sure your return spring is not broken on the pedal. Even if there was 100% air in the line, the spring should pull the pedal to the top of it's stroke. Also, make sure there is no binding on the pivot point of the pedal.
  2. 1999Porsche911
    Under NO circumstances should you lose ANY coolant if the system is functioning properly. It is a sealed system and short of a leak or substantial overheating, no coolant will ever be lossed. Evaporation cannot occur in a vacuum.
  3. 1999Porsche911
    It can take several drive cycles to fully bleed the system when coolant is added. Once bled, your should never lose any fluid. Keep ading in the mornings until you no longer need to.
  4. 1999Porsche911
    Before removing the filters, release the fuel pressure using the valve on the fuel rail of bank 2.
  5. 1999Porsche911
    Plugs are tightened to 18 ft/lbs for reinstalling old plugs and 22 for new. Easier to simply tighten with socket and wrench and then 1/4 more turn. I have never used a toorque wrench on plugs in any engine.
  6. 1999Porsche911
    Most likely oil leaked from above onto the shelf of the bracket. When you lifted the car, the angle increased enough for the oil to drip off the shelf.
  7. 1999Porsche911
    Do not allow them to refill the system if they cannot identify where the leak is and fix it. There is only one reason to need an AC recharge, and that is because you have a leak.
  8. 1999Porsche911
    Try removing your idle control valve (left side of throttlebody) and clean it with carb spray.
  9. 1999Porsche911
    If you can get replacement parts, the job is no more difficult than rebuilding a chevy engine once it is removed.
  10. 1999Porsche911
    The part you are looking for is 996 116 712 04. Below are all the parts that need replacing per the TSB: The engine does not have to be dropped to change the clutch. I believe the "00" part number is the orginal part and should not be used. The lastest number is as listed above. Make sure you use that one. Call dealers if you want verification of the latest part number. Resurfacing is not necessary unless there is excessive bluing of the metal. In that case, resurface like any other flywheel, Shims are not needed.
  11. 1999Porsche911
    Thanks. I will look at it tonight. Also, do you any clue as to the normal pressure level of the engine? JC Oil Pressure: Cold engine, all speeds - 5 bar Warm engine, idle - 1.5 to 2 bar Warm engine, above 3000 rpm - 4 bar+
  12. 1999Porsche911
    You really don't go through all that trouble to change the oil, do you? Simply get on your back, unscrew the canister, drain and put back in. Try it next time and you'll save a hell of alot of time. You definately do not need any ramps.
  13. 1999Porsche911
    Some people must love to make extra work and expense for themselves. 5 minutes or less to remove, empty and replace the filter canister. Is there really a need for another way? Loren gave you the correct method of doing it in the first response to this thread.
  14. 1999Porsche911
    It is a little tricky, but it MUST be turned clockwise while removing to clear the fastening eye. Patience and it will come out.
  15. 1999Porsche911
    Just restore it from your archives. You did back it up, didn't you?
  16. 1999Porsche911
    Either is fine in warmer climates or you can use Castrol.
  17. 1999Porsche911
    There are many sensors that can "blip" into and range that will cause a CEL. If after a few engine cycles, the error does not reoccur, the CEL will go off. A common one is the gas cap not being tight or filling the car with the engine running.
  18. 1999Porsche911
    ....well according to the dealer you are right. They want to replace the idle control valve. They quoted me a price of $940 parts and labor. Does that sound right? I normally go to the dealer in Torrance and trust my service advisor there but I didn't want tow it so far since the Beverly Hills Porsche Service Center, which is in Santa Monica, is like 10 blocks away. This is my first time there. The Bosch part for the ICV is less than $200 and you can get it from Autozone. Install takes 5 minutes. I would first remove it (2 screws) and spray it with carb cleaner. These sometimes gum up and do not operate correctly. You cannot hurt it by spraying.
  19. 1999Porsche911
    Try removing and cleaning the Idle Control Valve on the left side of the throttle body. Spray with carb cleaner. This is assuming you have a C2 and not a C4.
  20. 1999Porsche911
    The way I understand your post, you have NO problem with the battery. The engine cranks fine but will just not catch and keep going?
  21. 1999Porsche911
    On fuel injected cars, sometime just starting it and then turning it off will flood the cylinders with fuel. Try letting it sit for the day and try again then run it til warm.
  22. 1999Porsche911
    The part you are looking for is 996 116 712 04. Below are all the parts that need replacing per the TSB: The engine does not have to be dropped to change the clutch.
  23. 1999Porsche911
    Not sure where you live, but if FLA, Porsche recommends Mobil 1 0X40 Your tapping (if atributed to oil loss to the lifters) will be intensified changing to 0W40. Stick with the 15W50 or 5W50.
  24. 1999Porsche911
    Check the plunger switch located at the top of the pedal. Pull the plunger outwards so it is pressed in when the pedal is in the up position.
  25. 1999Porsche911
    Aha! Now we are getting somewhere: "...In certain positions, this upward pressure on the pedal along with the pivot of the pedal boost spring will make smooth release of the pedal nearly impossible..." I think this describes the crux of the problem which is my primary complaint. Two questions: How do I lower the engagement point of the pedal? Where is the spring...is it on the slave cylinder? Crawl under the dash and have a look. The spring's main purpose it to assit pushing the pedal to the floor and NOT bring it to the top. Easy to remove, but make sure you put a small nail or pin in the end hole provided in the piston so the spring does not pop out when removed. Then drive the car with it removed and you'll get the correct feel for the cutch mechnism. However, try simply reducing the engagement point of the pedel as I descibed above by introducing air into the system. This, by itself, may move the pedal to a point where the spring does not interfere. My pedal, which engaged at the top with the new stage 2 clutch, now engages about half way up. Play with it until you get a comfortable engagement point. You'll be surprised how much smoother your shifting is.
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