1999Porsche911

PTEC: His MAF reading is fine at 5.34 or so. If he is fully warmed up and his idle is 700 it is common to see such a low reading. A reading of 13-14 grams/s at idle would definitely set an error code. You may see a reading of 11 or slightly more when the car is just started and cold. Also, the fuel trim readings (he only shows bank 1) look fine. I would like to see what the other bank reads. His LTFT IS NOT even near maxed out. (25% is limit and he is showing only 9%. I run -11 and -18 on my engine). The error code is NOT telling him the engine is running lean, but is running rich, and the O2 sensor is telling the DME to shut down fuel delivery. If the MAF was reading too low, the DME would be told to reduce the amount of fuel injected and the engine would be running too lean and the o2 sensors would have to tell the DME to increase fuel. This would give the error codes 1124 aqnd 1126 is the sensors tried to adjust past their range limit. I would like to see the readings of the primary o2 sensors at idle. He may have a bad EVAP valve, a leaky injector or too high of fuel pressure. It may also be a faulty ground as the operating parameters he has shown us look fine.

I am still waiting for some fanatic to tell you that now you have disturbed the weight balance of the car since the battery is no longer centered.

There is one plastic line from each radiator to the engine that travels down the center of the underbody.

Normal operating temp should be around 192 - 196. Most 996's show the needle just a hair to the left of the "0" in 180. When the needle gets past the "0", you are pushing temps above 210. This is fine for hard driving but the temp should drop back to normal when you back off.

I would check the fuseable link located in the distribution box in the trunk. Under the carpet on th left wall. There is no master fuse that would require removing the dashboard to fix. Dealer obviously is a rapist.

All the popular oils are compatable with each other and mixing them in no way causes any ill efects. It you get that anal about oil, you better NEVER mix gasoline brands as the differences between them are more than the differences between oil.

Probably needs a bleeding. Do the brake and clutch bleed at the same time.

Take the car to the DEALER and have them give you a complete list of what must be done to get the car back to NEW condition in the areas damaged. If it means new rim, body parts, tires, etc, have them spell it out. The insurance company of the guy who hit you is responsible for all costs, including replacement car while your car is in the shop. When you demand this from the insurance company, also inquire as to where you should go to get yourself checked out medically because you may be feeling some pain from the jarring of the accident. Do not rip the insurance company off, but use all leverge to get your car back to the way it was with NO COST to you.

Go to Samsclub or costco and get one for $48.00 or an Autozone for a few bucks more. Do NOT buy from Porsche!

You turn the tensioner which is on a spring swivel. When you release it it returns to normal tension. I forgot what size socket it takes.

Tighten up the 2 bolts on the cam solenoid covers. (10 mm I think) This might stop the leak. Most of these covers leak or at least sweat oil. If that does not fix it and you do not want to be raped by a dealer, clean the covers and surrounding area with gumout and wipe dry. Loosen (do not remove) the 2 bolts enough so you can pry the cover away from the block by the thickness of a quarter. Squeeze some liquid gasket between the cover and the block and very lightly tighten the 2 bolts. Wait 24 hours and make the 2 bolts nice and snug. Your leak is not permanently fixed. The leak could also be coming by way of the spark plugs cavities due to a bad "o" ring on one of the tubes in the head.

I would thoroughly check the intake tubes between the air filter housing and throttle body for leaks. These error codes are reported by the O2 sensors because they are trying to richen up the system becuase you are running too lean. It could be plugged fuel injectors, leaking air intake. It also could be a bad fuel pump or pressure, but that is less likely. Your scanner would easily identify whether the problem was MAF related. The MAF reads the flow of air and the computer adjusts the amount of injected fuel based on this info. The O2 sensor adjusts the amount of fuel based on what it reads for Fuel/air ratio. The codes are telling you that the O2 sensor cannot adjust enough. So, either the MAF is way off on the air flow reading, or it is accurate, but more air is being introduced into the engine somewhere AFTER the MAF sensor. Things to try include, clean the MAF with carb cleaner or alcohol and reinstall. Clean the throttle body with carb cleaner. Run a few tanks of gas with injector cleaner added. Check every intake connection for leakage.

RE750's.

Did you get a manual with the car?

Any of the tire sealants are a great product and I have found to be a perminant fix for nail/screw holes in tire tread. I have driven on several tires more than 30,000 miles after using this stuff without ever having a broblem with another leak, balance, etc. I keep a can in all my car's trunks. Just make sure when you use it that you immediately go out at drive the car for about 15 minutes to make sure that the sealant is evenly distributed. My last set of back tires on my 996 got a nail in one ofthem 2 days after putting them on. I was out of town, so I removed the nail and used fix-a-flat with no problems up to the time I got new tires after 12,000 miles more. Cross country high speed (150 mph) driving on the tire as well as every day driving.

Neil: Let us know if and when your start using oil.

It's a 2" exhaust. You don't have to remove anything to measure.

Lower the tire pressure to about 28 and see if the whine changes. Might help you with piece of mind knowing it IS the tires. Whine would also be different on wet pavement.

If there is insufficient combustion pressure, the top two rings are not pressed against the cylinder wall and break-in takes a long time. This is why cruising down the highway in 6th gear at 60 mph to break in the engine is not such a good idea. It is not that it takes a long time, it makes the cylinder bore oblong. The cylinder reaaches it final shape and honing in the first 100 miles of engine operation, If you do not properly hone them using the equalized pressure of the rings against them during that time, you have increased you chances of both oil seepage and compression loss. Once the cylinders are properly honed by the rings, there will be minimal wear on the cylinder from the rings for the life of the engine. All wear will continue to be even and will promote maximum compression and oil sealing. Also, the heat in the cylinder is removed 1/3 by coolant/oil, 1/3 by exhaust and 1/3 is used for the power.

But that makes too much sense. Too many on this board are convinced that Porsche knows all the answers so no matter how much proof you show the, they have to do it the PORSCHE way. I wonder if Porsche has a subsidiary that manuafactures oil? Anyway, some people will always follow the crowd.

If you don't do step 3, then you will not properly hone the cylinders round as you will not go through the entire heat range. This is the most important step other than warming up the engine. You must create as much pressure and heat in the cylinders during break in. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That is contrary to porsche recommendation. I think it is more important to run the engine "gently" for the first 1000 miles, then start the higher level break in. To each there own. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> It is wrong to simply assume that just because Porsche makes a recommendaton that it is in fact correct. This is quite obvious when you look at all the reoccurring problems Porsche engines have had over the years. I have NEVER had a car burn or loose any oil EVER. I have always broken in the engines as described above. I have had 5 cars go over 180,000 miles and one car is still going with 273,000 miles on the original engine and no oil is lost between 5,000 mile oil changes. I know so many people that burn oil and they have followed the manufacturer's breakin recommendations. I have rebuilt numerous engines and you can clearly see the physical defferences (especially the cylinder bore) of a car that has been babied and one that is aggressively broken in. The single most obvious problem was the cylinder being out of round on the babied engine. This is the cause of many flatsix engines oil consumption. It takes very little distortion in the bore to allow oil to seep past the rings. Until I see a problem and until ANYONE can specifically show ANY sound reason for not breaking it in this way, then I don't expect to change a procedure that has worked for more than 30 years. The is no reason given to follow Porsche's recommendation, but many reasons to follow mine.

While I do not have a problem with the above, I think that you should do this for more than 3 cycles. Minimally a 1000 miles, 2000 is better, frustrating as it may be. Also I would keep revs below 4200 and when you do start redlining the car do not sustain redline, redline the motor, then back off for a few minutes, repeat. Do the redline cycle for a couple of hundred miles. Step 5 is really important. Do not go for a 200 mile cruise on the interstate when the motor is new and put the cruise control on. Every five minutes or so shift to another gear. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> If you don't do step 3, then you will not properly hone the cylinders round as you will not go through the entire heat range. This is the most important step other than warming up the engine. You must create as much pressure and heat in the cylynders during break in.

Proper breakin must be done in the first 100 -200 miles and below is the proper procedure: 1. Always bring engine to FULL operating temperature before high revs. 2. Drive trhe car easy for the first 10 miles or so, varying the rpm's from 2,000 - 5,000. 3. Then, start bringing the engine up to maximum rpm's and letting the the engine bring the revs back down by coating in gear. 4. Repeat several times, in order to create maximum heat in the cylinders. 5. Drive around at lower RMP's for seveal more miles, remembering to vary the speed of the engine every couple of miles. 6. Repeat number 3, 4 and 5. 7. Park car and let the engine cool down overnight. 8. Repeat all the above 2 more times. Your engine is now fully broken in correctly and should be driven hard from here on.

I don't bother with the protection, but I just plan on repanting the front GT3 bumper every couple years or so. It allows me to get any other small chips and marks cleaned up at the same time. A good cpat of wax every few months on the paint and windshield helps with the little crap hitting the car.

Just giving you a hard time. Why not wait until late at night when traffic my be lighter on the route you are taking. How far is the bodyshop from you? It just seems like alot of work for such a little risk. I have driven my p-car from Chicago to Las Vegas lots of times and only once did I get any nicks. If you just take it slow you shouldn't have to worry about it. Anyway..it's only a **** car and if you are that worried about stone chips, all the plastic protection sheets in the world are not going to keep if from getting some sooner or later.