1999Porsche911

As about as intelligent as the question. Come on. You can't get to the body shop with out getting a stone chip on the bumper? Does it rain stones there? Just take it slow and don't follow to close to the car in front of you. You're way to serious about this.

Deleted - wrong post

Drive Backwards.

There is a different cable needed for the aero kit spoiler and fan. Call the dealer and they can give you the part number.

The wear pattern on the replaced rears was dead perfect and evenly spread across the tires, so I doubt it's alignment but... Sound like either your camber is not negative enough or you are running extremely low tire pressure. The rear tires SHOULD always wear more on the inside half due to the specified negative camber. Check the camber and set it to specs.

You definately have something wrong. The proper allignment balancing and 44 psi will not wear the tires out like that. When the rear tires wear, they will ALWAYS wear more on the inside first. Do you have the printout of the allignment specs AFTER it was done?

What additional work? If you are going to pump it out, you still have to change the filter. So the only difference is sliding a pan under the engin, unscrewing the drain plug, waiting 10 minutes, put the plug back in and fill her up. Or buying the oil and filter for $65 and going to Jiffy Lube pr similar place and pay someone $20 to change it while you watch. Sounds effortless to me. What do you do with your other cars? Do it the same way.

It may take a few driving cycles to get the computer properly calibrated.

I use an old one that is not available anymore. Just make sure it can show you real time readings for the following: Engine Load, MAF, O2 sensors, Fuel trim (short and long), timing, engine temp and engine compartment temp, It should also report a freeze frame of the engine condition when a CEL is set. You can get one for about $150 or less.

Hey Loren,,,you make it too easy for people. Have them use the search feature.

That's what the sticker says. However, given that most tire wear is in center rather than on edges, would it make sense to lower it to promote more even tire wear? No. Unless you want to effect your understeer and oversteer.

44 psi.

There is a plate on the driver's door that has that information. Mine is 3/98.

Your MAF looks to be fine at idle an fuel trim on bank1 doesn't look out of wack. However, how does this fuel trim compare to that of bank 2? Since you are getting only the 1123, I would guess it either has to be a leaky fuel injector (which I think is unlikely) or may just a bad O2 sensor. You might want to simply buy a new O2 sensor (Bank 1 before the CAT), or switch bank 1 with bank 2 to see if the error code follows the sensor. The sensor only costs about $120.00 and if you don't need it now, you will someday. Replacement if very simple using a open end wrench and should take you no more than 20 minutes. This is probably what Porsche would do, but also charge you $135.00 an hour.

It does not hurt a battery to have a constant voltage of about 13.8 VDC applied indefinitely, to maintain the battery at 100% fully charged. I guess if your goal is to transform your car battery into a "dry" cell battery, you are correct. But if keep a constant 13.8 volts on the battery indefinitely, you will definately need a new one. I don't know why some make such a big deal about the battery anyway. They cost <$50. If you start the car and run it for 30 minutes or more every 4 weeks, it should last 5 years or more. There is nothing special about the Porsche battery.

If the MAF and O2 sensor has been eliminated as the cause, then you may a have an injector that is leaking on bank 1. This can also cause a P1123. What are your fuel trim settings for each bank? Some scanners will show what the engine parameters were when the CEL was set. Take a look at that, something may jump out at you.

How long does the car sit before the battery is dead. Here in Chicago, we have had temps between 0 -20 degrees for the past few weeks. I hadn't started my car in almost 4 weeks and it fired up yesterday. If your battery is going dead within a couple of weeks, either there is an accessory on, a short, or just a bad battery.

Any brand name synthetic oil will do fine.

Your intitial oil analysis will always show various other content besides the motor oil that was put in the engine. This is due to the various greases, etc, that are used when assembling the various components in the engine. However, NO engine manufacture that I know of still uses anything other than the recommended oil when shipping the car for delivery.

http://catalog.advancebmwparts.com/?make=B...=2001&x=37&y=25 http://www.autopartsauthority.com/oxygen/p...911~~parts.html

All Porsche are filled with the same Mobile 1 that you put in your car at an oil change.

That's like guessing how long you're going to live. I see no problem expecting 200,000 miles plus out of a properly maintained (oil changes) engine. We'll see, I guess.

NO.

It depends what is making the noise. You have not yet told us whether or not you have identified where the noise is coming from. You have only stated the tech's opinion. Verify where the sound is coming from first. Noises can be like a tooth ache....you go to the dentist and tell him your lower right molar hurts and you find out it's the tooth on the other side of the mouth that is causing you the pain. Verify!

As I tell everyone who owns a newer vehicle BUY A SCANNER. As far as the idle hunting...have you carefully checked every vacuum hose? If so, do it again. Make sure the air tube to the throttle body is on properly and secure. I would try resetting the computer to start from a clean slate. Get your radio code out because you will need to enter it after you reset. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery for 5 minutes. Then reconnect. Start your car and let idle for a few minutes and then go out for a drive. The car will run a little rough at first as the computer learns the proper settings. After the car warms up, your idle will probably stay high (around 1100) until you go through a few drive cycles, but it should not be hunting. Also look at the Idle Control Valve that is attached by 2 screws to the left side of the throttle body. This unit controls the amount of air that passing into the intake when the throttle is closed. There is a little window in this device that can sometimes be cleaned (I use carb cleaner) which will flush out any grit that has found its way into it. One other thing I have seen cause a hunting idle, not just in the P-cars but in other cars as well, is a bad water temperature sending unit. This sensor tells the computer what the engine temp is and sets the idle accordingly. This is located directly below the air filter housing and is a 4 conductor sensor that is screwed into the water pump housing. You might try simply removing the connector from it and then putting it back on to insure a clean fit. The scanner you will be buying should be one that will not just reset any fault codes, but also display the following readings: Fuel Trim, Engine Temp, Engine Compartment Temp, Timing, MAF, all 4 O2 Sensors and Engine Load. Keep us posted. With your oil level at FULL, it is normal for the pressure to be as low as 1.5 at idle on a fully warmed engine. It should be above 4.5 when above 3,000 rpm's tho. Remember that these water cooled engines don't care what the temperature is outside. Your oil pressure should be the same on hot days and on cold days.