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boxster_nut

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Everything posted by boxster_nut

  1. Thank you....interesting reading. -J Follow-up my repair: I didn't have to go through all the work in removing bushing, silicon, nylon washers....described here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/1728-horn-problem/page-7 The bushings on my 97 while deteriated, wern't completely gone. All I did was get #31 o-rings and put them over the center sleeve on *each* side of the bushing. I did not fix them in place with silicon...didn't see the need as they are fairly snug on the sleeve and when assembled, are sandwiched between the large head screw, the horn frame, and the contact block in the steering wheel. One could seat them in silicon but I do not see the need to spend extra time while the silicon dries. A fourty minute job and back together and good as new. One can get the #31 o-rings at Home Depot or Lowes, mfg by Danco, ten in a pack for $2.50. Hope this helps someone with their repair.
  2. I know this is a old thread but wanted to update with my experience. I didn't have to go through all the work here. The bushings on my 97 while deteriated, wern't completely gone. All I did was get #31 o-rings and put them over the center sleeve on *each* side of the bushing. I did not fix them in place with silicon...didn't see the need as they are fairly snug on the sleeve and when assembled, are sandwiched between the large head screw, the horn frame, and the contact block in the steering wheel. One could seat them in silicon but I do not see the need to spend extra time while the silicon dries. A fourty minute job and back together and good as new. One can get the #31 o-rings at Home Depot or Lowes, mfg by Danco, ten in a pack for $2.50. Hope this helps someone with their repair. J
  3. Making a list: Redo valve covers: $500 (just a guess) Fill tube seal: $300 (just a guess) Window regulator replacement: $500-$600 @ dealer, $100/used-$300/new oem + 3 hrs work on your time Fuel cap: $30 (from recycler) Visor mirror: $30 (from recycler) New tires: $150-$180 each, installed/balanced, (assuming you get reasonable tires for the car), $600-$800 Total (approximately): least expensive: ~$1.6K, most expensive: 2.2K Offering $8K + 2.2K repairs = 10.2K (right at blue book) Others can clarify the valve cover and oil filler tube repairs, as mine are guesses If you plan on having a independent garage do all the work, I'd offer 7.5K-8K If you plan on doing the window regulator (good video online) 8K If you plan on taking to porsche dealer for repairs, ...ummm, lower than 7.5 K... My position is to offer a lower but still reasonable number because one can always work up.... Oil OK? if not, add ~$100 ( 9 quarts mobil 1 + filter+garage labor). Are you aware of the IMS bearing failure issue? (a negotiating point). Any issues with convertable top operation? Motors+shafts+transmissions are weak spot, a real PITA to fix (IMHO), and expensive, at least $1200 if you have to redo the whole system. Good luck! J
  4. Thank you very much for the confirmation. I appreciate it. Let the wrenching begin!!! J
  5. When moving the passenger window up and down, it makes a screeching noise. I took the door apart and did not see any interference, binding, or anything that looked out of the ordinary. I lubed the regulator pullies (at least the ones I could get to on the bottom), but the one that is on the top LHS of the passenger door is covered by the door metal structure - which seems to be where the noise is coming from. I attached a short video of the window operation and the noise is clearly heard. Can someone confirm if this is a regulator problem? Just in case, any recommendations on a source of good aftermarket regulators for a reasonable price? Thanks J boxster_window_squeal.wmv
  6. Weird behaving horn....driving along fairly smooth highway horn will occasionally beep for 1-2 seconds...no correlation to road condt, frequency, etc...just random. Going over some really bumpy roads, horn will occasionally beep...or more like a chirp. Recently noticed now the horn does not work.... Anyone seen this behavior before with suggested things to look for? I am guessing a loose connection but don't look fwd to trying to trace the wires. Thanks for any help J
  7. Am interested as to how the amazon hairy stuff worked out for you.....please leave some feedback as I am experiencing the same thing in my car...and yes, $225+ is really "OUCH" Best regards, J
  8. Really? OK, I never knew that, after all these years. TYVM for quick reply. I better get is inpected before light goes on again. lol -J
  9. Now this is really amusing.....CEL stayed on after visit to AZone to check the code. They did not clear the code. Orderd O2 sensor. Drove car following day...light on in morning, make a trip in afternoon, light is off....made a few trips the following day, light still off. I thought once the CEL was on, it would not turn off by itself. Can someone explain this behavior? Now I wonder if I really have a faulty O2 sensor..... Thank you -J
  10. 1997 boxster. It has 2 cats, one on each side. there is one O2 sensor between the maniford down pipe and the cat, on one sensor on the end of the muffler. Each side is symetrical (e.g. 2 O2 sensors/side, 2 sides, total of 2 O2 sensors). So now the question remains: for North American car, What side (driver or passenger) is Bank 2?? and where is Sensor 1 located? (between manifold & cat? or at muffler?) Any help is really appreciated. Thanks J
  11. Code is p0153 Bank 2, sensor 1, h02s21 So where is bank 2 sensor 1????
  12. As luck would have it, the day before I take the car for inspection the CE comes on. The friendly folks at Auto Zone diagnosed it as a O2 sensor. I don't recall the code at the moment, will follow up with that later. At first he was not sure if it was an 'upstream' or 'downstream' sensor....further questioning led him to say 'upstream' but not real sure he got it right. So, where is the location of the 'upstream' sensor? Location of downstream sensor? Are there only two sensors? Is this a DYI in the driveway repair? am fairly handy with tools but is a lift needed? A quick search shows bosch replacements - are they perform as well as OEM? Thanks for your help John
  13. lol, I removed that passenger that was screeching (she commented something about my excessive speed in driving)..... then I heard the window screeching...
  14. Thank you....with this pointer I did some additional reading...even though my window operates, complete failure is not too far away? So I did some online searching...Dorman replacements are anywhere from 1/3 to 1/2 price of OEM. Anyone try/have experience with Dorman replacements? Thanks again for the valuable advice. -J
  15. thank you!... I did do some googling and found the pelicanparts one...I figured pointers from owners/DIY entheusiasts would know the better ones. -John
  16. So I go to put the passenger window down the other day and it emits a screeching sound, both going up and down. Sounds like 'nails on a chalk board'... I haven't had the time to tear the door apart to check it out, but, am wondering if there are any 'well known' problems with the regulator or window mechanism? Would appreciate any insight... Thanks john
  17. Thanks for the insight. I guess the question that I should have asked but didnt: Is the IMS bearing prone to failure on a 97 boxster? I read the law suit and settlement - model year 2002-2005, will cover up to 10 years, yada, yada, yada. But for me, the question is is the 97 boxster susceptible? Best regards, John
  18. I agree, a (very) little dab will do ya.....OR, I take a lesson from my father who serviced fighters during WWII while waiting for orders for flight school...a small dab of wheel bearing grease on the threads worked well - at least the Allison and Merlin engines never complained....I've used that approach on all my cars for many years and have had no problems.
  19. Beru was the factory plug. Changing the plug is pretty straight forward; we like to use both anti seize on the threads and a dab of dielectric grease on the plug insulator. Be sure to torque to specs, and inspect the plug tubes for any oil leakage while you are in there. Thank you...I've discovered that this is the Beru plug number: 14 FR-7 LUD, -True?? The following are also listed: NGK BKR6EK, Bosch FR-7-LDC+ Are there any pros/cons of either the NGK or Bosch over the Beru? Are the tubes only available as Porsche products or are there equivalent quality aftermarket sources (e.g. Bosch)? Source of reasonably prices plugs and tubes? I checked Pelican and Sunset....others? Best, -J
  20. Time to replace the plugs, am wondering how tough a job it is.... Didn't find anything useful on Google, so I thought I'd ask the experts for tips/pointers... What is the OEM plug for a 97 boxster? Thanks much! John
  21. Enjoyed reading the details, as I have a 97 with 30K miles and am wondering about doing the IMS + clutch job...Was just quoted $2200 USD for the whole job - as I had PS pressure hose replaced. So, just curious....did you have your car on a lift or on 4 jack stands.......I HATE working on my back....lol best regards, John
  22. Not really, you have to look at it, often with small mirror stuck down inside the canister. [flame_on] Ok, well being an engineer, I just have to ask....."And what problem were they trying to 'fix' that the full flow spin on filters didn't have?" This sort of engineering drives me nuts.....and on a 55K car no less.... [/flame_on] grrrrrrr
  23. Ohhh, I didn't know that...Is this something that happens 'often'? Should this be a maintenance item? My boxster has 30K miles on it...
  24. Thanks for all the replies. Found a Mahle at a local store so I'll go with that since it is OEM. While I like the spin on conversion, the extra $s of the conversion kit is not really saving me anything, plus having to get a can opener to inspect the filter makes no sense since the oem cartridge arrangement already allows for inspection.....the dreaded IMS bearing fail....(don't think that is applicable to 1997s tho....)
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