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About jnc

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  • From
    Reading, PA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    99 Boxster
    70 914/6
    97 Catera
    99 Saab 9-5

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  1. Actually, I believe it's a 5mm socket. That, or you can open up your tool kit for the tool.
  2. I had this problem... Just remove the cabin filter, stick you hand in there, and pull out as many pieces as you can. I haven't had any funny fan noices since, and can't say I've missed having the foam either.
  3. A couple of ideas..... Maybe it's an ignition switch. For $40, you can install the Audi switch, and eliminate this as a possiblity. Can you try a remote starter on the starter motor. (I realize it isn't exactly easy to get to. Plan b might be to remove the starter and have it bench tested. The red light, with the key out, normally means a bad diode in the alternator. (this is actually why I think it's a bad ignition switch) Another not so friendly idea is can you bump start it. (coast it down a hill, key on and pop the clutch) Returning it up the hill if is doesn't start can be a
  4. I was in the battery business for 15 years, I realize that technology moves on, but I've never heard of "No diode ripple detected-- you need a new alternator." I would measure the battery voltage, at rest. 12.6 is good. I would measure the battery voltage running with the car running, 13.6 - 14.8 is good. I would attempt to measure the miliamps draw with the car off. A couple miliamps is fine, more than a couple hundred isn't. AFAIK... Diodes, should have no ripple. They take AC and turn it into DC. I would think if they have a ripple, then they are bad. Generally speaking, if t
  5. Why not just put a big round number on it. I'd guess that over the past 23 years, my 914 has cost in maintainence and repairs about $500 a year, some years better than others. (that engine rebuild just about broke the bank) I think for a Boxster, if you set aside about 4K for maintainence / repairs, 1K for insurance, and 1K for gas, that would be a rough order estimate. If you don't spend it, think of it as a savings plan.
  6. For instructions to replace the stalk, try searching for the OBC hack. Lots of people have wanted to install the on board computer, one of the methods includes replacing the stalk controls. I don't think it is that hard, except you need to be exact cause if you don't follow the instructions correctly (or if the instructions are wrong) you'll set off the air bag light (that will cost about $100 to turn off at the dealership) or worse, fire the airbag if you're a completely careless. So.... search for OBC hack, and I think you'll find some interactions or at least some insight why the dealer
  7. There are a couple of reasons for 'operating temp'. One is to try to have as much dirt suspended in the oil as possible, so when you drain, you get as much dirt as possible out. Another good reason, is so the oil flows well, warm oil is thinner than cold oil and it will drain better. The bottom line is, you'll get more dirt and old oil out, if it is warm. Warm is better than cold, and 5 minutes is better than none.
  8. Probably the easiest way is to politly ask your dealer who they farm this work out to. Lot's of people (on PPBB) have claimed to have new rear windows sewn in for $400 - $600. Depending on who does it, it's a 4 to 8 hour job to R&R the top, plus the time to sew a window in. Aftermarket tops are in the $500 - $700 range, plus labor (I think a dealer top is 2K+, plus $100+ hour labor), so keep calling till you find someone who can do the job for a reasonable amout, they are out there, you mostly need to keep calling.
  9. I measured a standard MY99 wheel bolt at 99 grams. The locking bolt is 96.
  10. Since no one has answered..... I think this would be hard. There is a little strip of buttons that goes by the trunk releases for the memory positions 1, 2, 3. And there is probably a memory module tucked under the seats. So, just having the seats isn't enough. If you think that having the wires there to move the back, back and forth, consider that the oe power seats also go back and forth, and up and down. so, my answer means I really don't know the exact answer. I wouldn't try this unless I had ready access to the more parts that I would need.
  11. I've been reading up on top drive cables, anticipating that I'll need to change mine. I have a Jan 99 delivered car. It was a Sept allotment, I think it was built in Octo 98. (those were the days weren't they, MSRP!) Getting to the point....... I checked my cables and it appears that I have the reinforced cable sheathing. Now, how could that happen? When did the reinforced cables start? The part number on the left side appears to be 986 5617 17 01. (can't read the right side)
  12. Hmmm...... But how to you get a manual? I've had the Boxster manual on order from my local dealer since at least April 2003. He claims they are on backorder.
  13. I get an occasional lifter clatter if I let the car sit for a while. Rattles like heck for a couple seconds, then settles down. Any chance your noise is this? I think I might have a little less of this since switching to 0W-40. I used to use 10W-30 but really don't' think that has anything to do with it.
  14. I know that the antifreeze in the Boxster is supposed to be "permanent", but......... Can it be tested with conventional antifreeze hydrometers? Should it be 'replaced' periodically? Should I wait till the water pump is replaced? Is this antifreeze still on backorder with Porsche? It is called ELF SUPRA? Is any other antifreeze Porsche 'approved'? The color of mine isn't so green anymore. It is actually almost clear. I have a 99 with about 45K. My commute is a high speed one. I wonder if this has affected the color. (I'm averaging 58mph on the OBC for the last 30K miles)
  15. jnc

    Classic 911 pic

    Are 914/6's welcome here? (as long as the 'teeners' stay on topic with drivetrain conversation)
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