vfxbox

if you are using photoshop or image ready, resize image resolution to 640x480 72 pixels/inch and save as jpeg and select FORMAT options to Baseline Optimized, Quality between 7 and 5.

I am thinking about changing my shift knob with Momo combat series. Momo seller responded back to me and basically as long as shift shaft is no larger than 14 mm diameter I shouldn't have problem. Same time I am doing B&M short shift change over. Does B&M short shift will be compatible with Momo shift knob? Less then 14mm diameter? Thanks.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8434 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8502 Hope this will help.

Oh, NO... that's how I lost my engine last year.. it started with knocking noise and eventually your engine rod bearing will crack.. Sorry to hear your problem.. Porsche knows this problem and they lowered price of engine from $17,000 to $7,000 with engine swap. When you have oil change, check your oil filter to see if there are any scrap metal debris... if you see any metal particles.. it's your rod bearing is going bad. Once you replace your engine with new one, porsche will give you 2 year warranty on the part.. and one year on labor. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?&...39;IMG_0014.jpg

You can purchase from http://www.nrauto.com

There is great article about e-Gas for Boxster coming up next month issue of Excellence magazine. Basically e-Gas or drive by wire model started in 2000 year model.

I had all 4 tires changed in January 2005 from America Tire Co,. and I purchased with extended warranty. All 4 tires are porsche recommanded michelin Sports PS2 and with in 1 year period, I had flat, bubble and blown out all 3 tires.. talk about bad luck... but each time I had to change, I didn't pay more than $25 because I purchased extended warranty. Recently I changed last 1 tire, which is the one never had problem with and still all four looks like brand new.. Not having a spare tire is scarly, but having extended warranty gives me peace of mind.

Is it completely not working? Can you hear motor or anything broke? Have you check micro switches just behind your seat? Thanks for responding. Yes, I unlatch the roof, push the switch and the windows go down, but the top motor does not come on. I checked the B6 fuse and the fuse was good. I checked the voltage at the fuse and with the ignition switch on, I get 12v constant. I unplugged the double relay and plugged it back in, but nothing changed. I just downloaded the relay trouble shooting guide and will try that next. May be this will help. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5543

Is it completely not working? Can you hear motor or anything broke? Have you check micro switches just behind your seat?

Sound did improve over stock speaker, especially on high-volume sound I can tell big differences. It's much more clear sound and since I am using Pioneer AVIC-N3 unit, it has EQ for many different settings. I went over every settings and it delivers target settings correctly. If you have EQ you can test them out and try on nature settings.. For DOOR speakers, I answered to many readers here and it's hard to imagine without sub-woofer. Yes, door speaker turned out to be sub-woofer and porsche did sell some separate BOSE Subwoofer as an option which it goes between rear speakers. If you remove/change your door speaker with either 5 1/4 inch speaker or component speaker you will lose BASS and I highly recommend NOT removing it until you find other Sub-Woofer solution first. I purchase 5 1/4 inch speaker already, but it's sitting on my desk for that same reason. Jinster's other work around on http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6617 did inspire my new adapter, but his solution has problem with rattling. I've tried his solution and did cut off stock speaker cup and installed speaker, then at high-volume it start to rattle because it wasn't attach to the speaker grill body tight enough. His work around had to remove all 4 screw tab and sit on stock cup did not hold speaker tight enough. I had to buy another set of 4" speaker then I had to come up with new design, ask people around in studio where I work. (Thanks Ross, studio audio guy) After 3 prototypes and some other failure I come up with final version and option for baffle cup. Adapter did work and didn't rattle, but because under the dash where speakers sat on big space is left out and BASS couldn’t come up as it should. So I had to use baffle to secure this area and make sure BASS will rise up. You can try installing baffle on your stock speaker first and see if this will improve your sound quality. Then when you decide to move on with after market speaker system, use my adapter to install new speakers. No cutting, no permanent modification, just add-on and save your old part for future restoration. If you decide to sell your car, but keep your aftermarket audio systems. :renntech:

Here is what would looks like after tint both images.

Is this what you are asking? i just did quick photoshop stripes on taill lights.

I see Focal 100KP is two seperate pieces, but still uses standard 4 point mounting screw just like any other. How's this fit in Porsche/Nokia mounting grill with *little* modification?

http://home.socal.rr.com/vfxbox/bracket/index.html http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8780

Bring your car to repair shop and replace oil seperator.

Does sounds like rattle?

Only reason I didn't remove my door speaker is because it's not regular speaker. It's subwoofer instead. You could test your door speaker and see if it is subwoofer or not by disconnecting dash board speaker and play your radio. if your still wish to remove subwoofer and install 5 1/2 inch speaker you can, but which means you have to relocate your subwoofer systerm to elsewhere.

Fantastic... looks great.. I am on my way to home depot!

which speakers did you put in the dash, how much $$$, and how difficult was the install? just curious... you can put any 4" speaker with custom adapter I designed, it sucks to upgrade dash speaker. Because porsche/nokia uses custom designed bracket and no speaker will hold it. So I had to come up with new bracket and I send it out to laser cut for me. you can purchase this bracket here in renntech special offer section. 996/986 custom speaker adapter/bracket.

Just send you PM.

Thanks every one, I've ask my repair guy and he will remove rotor and paint with VHT high temp paint. Also he will check each rotor and sand 'em even as well. All for $80.. not bad... :D

I agree, recently I upgrade my dashboard speakers and I was going to upgrade my door speakers too. But then after removing dash speakers and while testing.. realized door speakers are subwoofers... If I didn't test them I could a ruin my sound setup. Just upgrading my dashboard speakers did improve sound quality. next project, rear speaker... because there are non right now. :lol:

I noticed all my brake rotor are rusting bad, I took it to my repair guy and he told me I have to paint all 4 of them. Oh boy... I guess I have to use high-temp paint for this job, but what kind? Any suggestions? Thanks.

I would love to help you out. assuming you are in So-cal.. right? PM me with where you at.

Yes, I had to remove rubber pad. Ruf, TechArt all requires to remove original rubber pad from the pedal. Also you have to drill the pedal. clutch pedal is made from ABS plastic, but brake pedal is metal, require some force... but at the end, it's all worth it.