beauar

go jump on the freeway to 76 miles an hour and see if it goes up. Decelerate to 37mph and it should go down. if it doesn't go back down then you got a problem

i blieve the proper coolant is pentosin

seems a little high to me. 2001 models don't usually go for that much. I think it should be more in the $40,000-$42000 range. Look up blue book value on it. If it was a 2003 it would be priced correctly

I think you should do the Fabspeed muffler bypass pipes. It will sounds really badass......although I haven't done mine yet

I just did this last week with a shop vac. I couldn't believe how many leaves were in there. Your pictures look exactly like mine did. I really don't notice a difference in running temps though

I know I could probably do it if I had the right tools here....which I don't. Any ballpark on what a shop would charge?

hi all, my 2003 996 C2 has 40,000 miles on it now. i was thinking it might be time to change the spark plugs. I am not sure how long they last and know it is a pain to change yourself. How much would a private shop charge to change the spark plugs.....curious? I think the car has the original plugs. How many miles shoudl these be changed?' Thanks, Beau from Chicago

Its funny how some guys want to drag race all the time just because I have a 911. The 911 isn't the best drag car but its because it is better suited for the race track. I really need to get the short shift kit because the throw between 1st and second is so large I lose alot of time. Most of the cars that try to race me are Nissans, BMW's. The guys with fast cars usually dont want to race everyone they see. I have had some runs with Honda S2000's and M3's on the highway. I raced with a S2000 and let me tell you that thing is fast. I think the guy had it modded. I beat him but barely. I usually make a deal with myself that I will only race a M3, Vette or something exotic. Other than that it is a waste of time. I see the ****box rice burners and laugh at them. While my 996 is quick there will always be a car that can beat it in a straight line. In response to weaving in and out of heavy traffic the car dominates most everything out there.......but I don't feel like getting killed. I am not a dumb 18 year old looking to ***** off people. Beau

see when the clutch was replaced. These tend to go at about 30-50,000 miles

ouch.....it is an automatic. I doubt you want that. You really want the 6 speed manual. Also 9000 miles means that the car is probably getting close to needing new tires. The tires typically last about 15K. $29K is a decent price

also.....how much are they askig for the 996 with 25,000 miles? What options does it have? is it manual or automatic? I would make sure to check the brake pads and rotors as well as take good hard look at the tires as tires can be very expensive

nothing wrong with the 996. I also have a 2003. It has been a great car and I have had absolutely no issues. I got mine with 25,000 miles and now have 41000. I believe the 997 also can have RMS issues. Regardless....an RMS issue isn't that big of a deal. It is a leaking seal. It is a problem if not remedied but your car had it fixed so no worries. I would get the extended warranty if it is only $1200 just for piece of mind. Not that many cars have had RMS issues. I have friends with 996's and not one has had any issues. I think it is just a hot topic because of people who are the rare % posting issues.

I have a 2003 C2 with 18 inch rims. 225/40/18 front, 285/30/18 rear. I have had a couple of different tires. I would steer away from the Pirelli Pzero Rosso tires. They wear really fast and take a while to warm up. I only run Michelin's now with PS2's in the front. The ps2 is a great tire but also really expensive. A friend recommended the Michelin Pilot sport AS Plus. I picked up a set and have loved them ever since. They fell much like the Ps2 and offer better traction in colder weather since they are an all season tire. Even if you are running the car in the summer only I still recmmend the PS AS plus tires. I have found no feel difference between these and the PS2's. This is just my opinion of course but they are a great tire. Not to mention they are only half the price of ps2's. Stick with Michelin. I have been buying their tires for years with great success. I have gone out on a limb with other such as Pirelli and was very disappointed with the performance and wear characteristics. If money wasn't an object I would go with the PS2. However.....the PS AS plus tire is still awesome.

i like your current rims much better than the turbo twist. If you do want to get these turbo twist rims...obviously make sure they are the right size. I think you have 19's right? I thought the turbo twist rims were usually 17,18 only

the pressure should build with increased RPM's. The reading on oil pressure should be at about 3.5 bar with normal driving. under heavy acceleration it should go to the 5 bar range to lubricate the engine. It seems weird that your oil pressure goes down when your RPM's are going up. Am i understanding this right?

loren is exactly right. You need a new clutch. As you wear it down the clutch becomes more difficult to push. This happened with mine as well. Clutch's tend to last around 30-50K miles depending on driving

sounds about right to me. Depends on what pads you are getting and who makes the rotors. It sounds like a good deal to me. I know I was quoted about $220 a rotor by a company who OEMS for porsche. It sounds like a pretty good deal. I have a 996 C2 so I am not sure if your rotors might be cheaper. I believe they are the same cross drilled rotors as mine though

thanks for your input. I think I am going to wait a few years and then pickup a used 997 twin turbo or GT3RS. or maybe a that time a new turbo...who knows. I guess for the time being I will get stomped.....but at least I know what needs to be done. I mainly bought my car for the handling, feedback, looks, driveability, NOT FOR DRAG RACING. Its just these douche bags in M3's, corvette's and Sti's giving me problems and always wanting to try to take me at a light. I have however settled a bet with my friend. He can beat me all day on straights but on a race track is a different story. I think for now I will stick with my C2 and anytime he talks crap I will invite him to my local track for a hot lap.....I might even pickup a Chevelle SS 454 with a blower just for my M3 and Vette racing....its not worth it. i plan on upgrading the suspension pretty soon. Thanks for your help Beau The difference between your friend's Corvette and your C2 is technology. Your flat six is a pretty unique engine with exotic materials, high compression, and other goodies that extract optimum performance while remaining efficient, reliable, and emissions-friendly. Adding forced induction to the motor costs cubic dollars because of the rare engineering characteristics that need to be accounted for. A Corvette is big displacement and pushrods, technology that's been complimented by widespread aftermarket modifications for decades; Porsche's engines tend to undergo significant changes every product cycle. Getting more Porsche usually means buying another car. Turbos are an exception, since it's relatively easy to re-map for higher boost, but it's always at a cost to reliability and drivability. Good news for you is that Porsches are dirt cheap right now. If you want more car (and are willing to extend your budget a bit) you could feasibly sell yours and get into something newer and meaner. One caveat--any Porsche you get will be engineered for superior handling, less so straight-line performance. Latter-day M3s and STis have comparable horsepower and power-to-weight ratios, so you're playing a numbers game that's tough to win. If you're looking to smoke tires and outrun cars from zero-to-sixty, maybe a Porsche isn't the best tool for the job. Mark

any good shop would use a guage to check the thickness. How many miles do you have on the rotors? Because the rotors are cross drilled you are going to need to bring the car to a specialist who knows how to resurface them. Midas wont resurface your rotors....even though its straight forward. the sensors in the brakes go off when you are approaching replacement. They give you plenty of miles and time to get new ones. I just did my pads and got Pagid street pads. DO NOT GET RACE pads if you dont want skreeching and squealing. Get a street compound. you can drive to your buddies. In fact you can probably drive for a couple of months but I wouldn't recommend it. Another thing is if the rears are looking bad what do your fronts look like? Rears last twice as long as the fronts. If you don't change the pads you run the risk of seriously damaging the rotors with grooves and its dangerous obviously.

to put my opinion in perspective here is what I am running. I have a 2003 996 C2 with 225/40/18 front, 285/30/18 rear. They are the light alloy rims. I have stock suspension. I live in chicago where the roads are some of the worst....period. The car is very tight and you can feel every crack. This is completely normal with the low profile tires. If you want a smoother ride you should change to 17 inch with a higher wall. They make a huge difference. the feedback in the steering is something that every driver should feel. It is a sign that Porsche knows how to build a true sportscar. I can't imagine a day without my 996. Simply the best car out there( for the money of course). I have driven vette's and wouldnt give my car up for a second.

that seems pretty crazy. I know guys with M3's and Vette's that dont have to spend neaarly as much for the HP gains. I guess Porsche's can't really be tuned without big bucks. I suspect its because of the small engine compartment. My buddy put a vortec supercharger on his vette for like $3000...i actually think it was closer to $2500 Although I have not modded a Porsche, I have modded other cars and my experience has been that the gains seen on bolt ons are marginal at best unless your car has force induction already. If you want to see real HP gain, I am afraid you will need to go with force induction like a turbo or supercharger. If you are going to dump 10k for a supercharger, my advice to you is to just save up and just buy a 996 turbo and sell your existing car. There is a lot of work involved in turnning a non force induction car into a force induction car if you are going to do it the right way.

Hi, I have a 2003 996 C2 STOCK and am looking for some direction on getting more HP out of the car. A friend of mine has a M3 and is starting to annoy me when he can pull away from me on straights. I tend to get beat up on by guys with WRX Sti's and mildly tuned M3's...sometimes even stock M3's. I essentially want to lay the smack down with my Porsche hand. My goal is to get around 50-100 more HP. What is the best way to accomplish this. I was going to do the fabspeed muffler bypass, chip remapping, intake(would like some recommendations if possible. I saw the K&N and doubt it really produces 23 HP+ come on). What else can I do to stay within a $3000 budget?? Do I really need to fork over $10K for a TPC supercharger? Seems pretty ridiculous that a guy with a corvette can pickup a supercharger for like $2K and a 996 one is over $10K. Any thoughts on maybe putting a new cam in and heads( even though this is going over my budget? There has to be some guys out there that have very fast Carrera 2's that can run with some of these mildly tuned M3's right? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated,

Porsche's are known to have faulty electronics. My 03 996 C2 has the same type of issue with the amp. I have to turn off the car and restart it every once in 6 months or so. I have checked all the connections and can't find the culprit. If it happens again drive straight to porsche since you have it under warranty. I would try to make sure it says that on the screen while you are there. Seems to me your amplifier located in the loggage compartment is faulty/disconnected. Open up the hood, and detach the cover on the bottom and make sure the wire attachement piece to the amp is secured (latch on the bottom of the block needs to be pushed up all the way for the plug to go in all the way). If that is okay, and it happens regularly, probably a bad amp, should be replaced under warranty and a 10 minute job. Sam