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manolo

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Everything posted by manolo

  1. Replaced the passenger air filter and while i was in there spend some time cleaning out some drains. No more smell. The filter was a brick. I had water getting in during heavy rains. Turned out to be the sunroof drain line as it runs through the headliner. Found a thread on here from someone else who had this problem and had fixed it. The drain wasnt clogged, it was leaking at the ball fitting inside the headliner near the C pillar. Lowered headliner, removed some trim pioeces and got it siliconed up, now she's dry, no soaked carpets or flooded spare tire compartment when it rains. Something to think about if any water/mold issues come up.
  2. I haven't done it, but Maxspeed has a kit to add them. http://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/Porscheseatheaters.html
  3. Check the control arms, (the main one with the ball joint as well as the trailing/upper arm). Other than obvious damage its hard to really inspect them but do your best. If they've never been done you will most likely see a lot of noises go away by swapping them out. For me, the trailing arms made a huge difference. I had to do the lower control arms as well as the ball joint boots were torn. Another thing, even though it may seem counter-intuitive I highly recommned swapping the front motor mount if its been awhile or never been done. If its never been done its virtually guaranteed it needs it. I have a 2000 S model as well. I bought it in 2009 with 28k miles and it needed it right away. I've already done two, last one was the 987 mount. This caused a lot of vibration noise, especially at freeway speeds as I usually find myself around 3000 rpm on the freeway and that RPM causes the most noise when the mount is bad. Either way, if none of these things have been done, its definitely not a waste of money to do them with 70k miles and 9 years on the components. Every time I swapped a control arm the car felt just that much better. BTW, I was chasing some noises and swapped one of my rear wheel bearings. Turned out to be a total waste, at 55k miles it felt exactly like the new one I put in. Not saying they dont need to be done, but it was a bunch of work for no result in my case. Turned out it was the flange on the aftermarket headers I installed touching the reinforcement brace under the car when I cornered it hard and the car flexed. Notched the flange now she's nice and quiet!
  4. Im installing a new axle this weekend and figured I'd do the wheel bearing while im in there. Is there any chance i could rent the tool from someone for the weekend? Thanks!
  5. http://gwl.rmsolo.org/hacks/suspension/index.html This guy did a write up. Probably best place to start for both of you.
  6. Ahh good one! .. will they fit without problems (brakes) are they bigger then the normal ones? Also, the "S" models began in 2000, not 1998. Just FYI.
  7. I was going over the LN Engineering IMS retrofit install the other night. It explains this and to use the Porsche tool to lock the engine at TDC. From LN Engineering: Prior to removing the IMS hub flange, it's best to lock the engine at TDC using the Porsche lock tool, pull the cam plugs and lock the cams, and then remove the three chain tensioners from the engine, prior to pulling the IMS hub flange.
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