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Everything posted by x5rap

  1. In May-2011, I had the passenger-side window regulator replaced in my 1999 996 coupe at an independent mechanic for a total of $700. Then came the whistle. It took several trips back to my mechanic. We tried adjusting the door latch to snug-up the door's ft and then after using a high pressure air nozzle, he pin-pointed where the whistle emanated from. With the regulator's attachments points loosened and with the smallest nudge forward, the window finally sealed properly and the whistle stopped. The whistle happened only in the evenings and at speeds over 60...yes, only in the evening, no
  2. Your car's a '99 so the shocks could be an issue. Even if low mileage, the seals dry out with age. Next, front lower control arms could also be worn. Mine's a '99 US 996 coupe tip. When I changed shocks and then later the lower control arms, the difference was remarkable. Congrat's on the car! They're a blast to drive.
  3. From Wikipedia - and we all know that if it's on Wikipedia...it must be true - Right?: VarioCam is an automobile variable valve timing technology developed by Porsche. VarioCam varies the timing of the intake valves by adjusting the tension on the timing chain connecting the intake and exhaust camshafts. VarioCam was first used on the 1992 3.0 L engine in the Porsche 968. Porsche's more recent VarioCam Plus combines variable valve timing with two-stage lift on the intake side. The two-stage valve-lift function is performed by electro-hydraulically operated switchable tappets. Each of these
  4. My early US '99 C2 996 tip (Feb-98 build date) lost its engine three years ago at 42K miles due to case going porous causing oil & coolant to intermix, a somewhat common early 996 problem. Lucky for me, I bought the car with an extended warranty. Otherwise, it would have cost me $US12K. Since then, 20K miles later, only routine maintenance except for sensors, lower control arms and minor interior stuff. It's great to see that some 996 engines go a long time with no RMS or catastrophic failures. My current problem appears to be a sticky Idle Control Valve. Not a big issue to sort ou
  5. Warrantech covered the replacement of the engine in my US '99 tip coupe (Feb-98 build date). Oil and water inter-mixed at 42,700 miles. It took 35 days, partly since the dealer shipped a manual spec'd engine to the shop doing the swap and mine is a tip. The engine for a manual vs. a tip are different part numbers: blah, blah BX for a tip and blah, blah CX for a manual. Without that foul-up the change-out still would have taken a solid 25 days by the time Warrantech agreed to cover and everything got shipped and installed. 35 days was a drag and Warrantech gives you a whole three (3) days
  6. For me and my risk aversion, a 90-day warranty would be insufficient. IMO, for a 1999 or 2000 996, you need an extended warranty. My extended warranty just bought me a new engine for my early-build US 1999 996 tip coupe. After 42,500 miles over eight years, there was an oil-water intermixing caused by an engine case that went porrous. The warranty saved me almost $10K. If the engine in the car you're considering has already been replaced, I would not be as concerned. But if it's still the original engine, I'd make sure I had an extended warranty. You may be lucky with this car and the
  7. Gator, I know it's off topic, but that's a great looking car you have! x5rap
  8. Additional information from Loren in months past: The LSD on a MY99 is only 40%. From the tech manual: QUOTE To get the engine’s power safely to the road in a standing start, slip is limited to 40 percent. Once under power, the slip factor changes to 60 percent because the engine no longer is operating at its maximum torque and also because this configuration helps minimize oversteer under load changes through a turn. Also from Loren: I do not know everything about the early options and TC was only around for the C2 in MY99. Traction Control (TC) is a combination of anti-slip contro
  9. In Mar-06, a new M96-BX 3.4 cost about $7,700US plus tax plus installation plus incidentals. It comes complete, with the exception of mufflers. You'll probably want to go with new mufflers, say $1,000. Everything else will be new back there. Cooling system connection points for a '99 manufactured engine are different from the '05 manufactured 3.4 engine. So you'll need a number of new coolant tubes. You'll want to change all rubber hoses in the coolant system. There aren't many, but they're there and they're eight years old. Oh, and you'll probably want to service the tranny. If it's
  10. Were any of chipped cars tiptronic? I'm pretty sure there's a massive difference in the chip in a manual vs. tip. I haven't looked hard but are there chips for '99 tips?
  11. I'll take a stab at this. I believe you can disable the ABD or TC in a 996 at speeds under 65. In Autox it does matter. Even with the pendulum effect of the engine way out back, having TC on will brake the rear wheel(s) and limit the rotation of the rear around a turn. I've seen the ABD described as a system that uses the brakes as an electronic version of a limited slip differential. I've felt it on the street and I've felt it both on and off in Autox at speeds certainly below 65 mph. I'm unfamiliar with the option code of P37. In my '99 US 996 tip coupe, option code 222 is for "Tract
  12. Others, more knowledgeable than me, may have a different view, but my belief is that the problem with cases going porous is limited to the early engines. My car had a Feb-98 build date. It is one of the very early 996's. I don't think the problem is common in '01 and beyond. Some may know of a change in metallurgy adopted by Porsche in 2000 or '01 or some other change in the manufacturing process to eliminate this problem. I'd drive it like you stole it :drive: and not worry. Check the coolant fill tank in bright light. If you see blobs of oil in the coolant, you'll want to have it ins
  13. Here's my month-long saga with happy ending: Day 1 - I took my US '99 tip coupe in for a routine oil change. Oil was found in the coolant and vice versa. Shop called Warrantech. About Day 4 or 5 - Warrantech sent a rep to the shop and confirmed the intermixing. About Day 7 - I called Warrantech. They said, "Be patient." About Day 10 - The guy from Warrantech said, "Would you believe me if I told you I know all the part numbers by heart? There are no good engines in the junk yards, so you'll get a new one. They go porous. Just be patient. This happens all the time. It has to go 'up
  14. I have new Fabspeed mufflers with a stock intake system on a brand new engine in my '99 tip coupe. Thank you Warrantech! :) Still in break-in mode on the engine but at rpm around 4K, the Fabspeeds are quieter than the B&B's they replaced. Absolutely no vibration or rattling of any kind.
  15. I just had a new engine installed in my '99 tip coupe (Feb-98 build date). The new engine, bought in SoCal in Feb-06, cost just short of $7,800US. The engine was assembled by Porsche in Sep-05. Installation was additional of course. I got lucky with an extended warranty covering the cost of all of it, except a $200 deductible and incidentals. Plus I upgraded to FabSpeed Mufflers. Now I have a 3-year and 36K-mile factory warranty on a new M96 engine. Lucky me!! :jump: There is a problem with early cases going porrous. Not all of them went bad obviously but based upon what I have read,
  16. I just hit the Porsche lottery and got Warrantech to replace the engine in my '99 tip coupe (an early Feb-98 build date). The guy at Warrantech knew all the part numbers by heart and he knew the difference between the BX (tip) and CX (manual) M96 engines. He had seen this too many times. These engines have a history by now and that's why I found a '99 with an extended warranty. I bought the car in Jan-05. My lovely car has 42,100 and the case "went porrous": water and oil mixed probably from a weakened cylinder wall. There were no symptoms. The car ran great and the intermixing wa
  17. dj, Thanks a bunch! I really appreciate the info and posting pics on the install would be perfect. :notworthy: In the meantime, I'll see what else I can dig up on the modification from Brey-Krause. Thanks again! Ray
  18. I was told by a knowledgable person that some early 996's, when run on the track encountered an engine oiling problem and kabooom. I don't know if it was an engine oil pick-up problem encountered under sustained hard cornering or just what. As I understand it, when the car is subjected only to the stresses of the street, it's not an issue. There was either a TSB issued or it was a Porsche Motorsports recommendation for early 996's being run on the track. I have just started running my early-build 996 in an occassional autocross. In my limited autocross experience, there are periods of sus
  19. Sorry, I have no knowledge of JRZ shocks but I too have a stock, daily driver US '99 996 coupe tip, 38K miles, non-M030, with 500-miles-new OEM Bilstein shocks. I have Dunlop SP9090s on factory 18's - 265/35 and 225/40. I recently took part in two Cal Club autocross events. Checked the ego at the gate luckily, since I got my clock cleaned. The inherent weaknesses of my driving and the car were noticeable with standard suspension. :drive: I am searching for information about potential suspension system upgrades that will keep the car in SK1 (Street tire with only factory suspension
  20. I doubt it and I hope not. But with new mounts on my '99 US coupe tip, the difference from the before to the after is a huge, welcome change. Now when I'm at a stop, even for just a few sec's and grab first, the car rocks, but just slightly. Before the change of motor mounts, there was a noticeable clunk unless the car was rolling. Now, while at a dead stop there's no clunk but you still can feel when 1st engages.
  21. With Tip, unless you jump on the gas, it'll start off in 2nd, unless it's cold as described above. To avoid the 2nd gear start you gotta grab 1st via the buttons. There's no way around it that I know of. The way I look at it, it saves wear-and-tear. I don't think you could lug the motor with a Tip if you tried. The motor's got a lot of torque and you won't hurt it, regardless. As far as the clunk into first when you're at a dead stop, I determined that it was motor mounts. The mounts are a hard, nitrogen-filled rubber arrangement. If/When the rubber cracks, the nitrogen leaks out a
  22. Power-to-weight is in the favor of the TT but torque is in the Bentley's favor. The cars are different, one's not better than the other, just different. Vive la difference! On a sweeping winding road or on a track or just for the sheer joy of driving and not posing, I'll take the 996TT. Cruising around town, on the freeway or even on the open American road the Bentley would blow off most anything, at any time, except in the twisties. Top end, cornering and braking go to the TT, no question, but on public roads, it's nuts to try and find the limit of either car. It would be fun to have
  23. Please excuse the ignorance, but does the sway bar change alone take a US M030 to an ROW? Does your coupe already have the US M030 option? Mine is a '99 tip coupe (Feb '98 build date) with 18's and I've no M030 option. Just a plain US coupe tip. I thought that to go from a non-M030 to an M030, US or ROW you had to change shocks and springs along with the sway bar. Am I right?
  24. Porsche sought engineering help from the Japanese when they designed the 996. I have an early build (2/98) '99 996 coupe tip with 37500 mi. They sought ways to cut cost and get the cars more reliable. Still, RMS problems and others happen and they only beat Range Rover, Mazda and Suzuki. Staggeringly sad, but true. What a shame...but what a great car. For prior owners of my 996, there were oil separator and cam cover leaks and other common ones, not RMS though. Not a terrible history at all. These are great cars and stat's be damned. Disraeli said, "There are three kinds of lies: lie
  25. $76K for a 2004 C4S sounds pretty good to me. Drive the heck out of it and enjoy.
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