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cease

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Everything posted by cease

  1. An interesting read, and if the sound is flawless, probably worth the cost of admission. But I took the cheaper route, first I tried the Pyle direct connect FM modulator, the unit worked but the signal strength to the radio was so low that I had to use 3/4 volume on the dial to get acceptable volume and that was sitting in the driveway, not on the road! Next I tried the Scosche FMOD01, much better and with a gain control to help with the sensitivity of the CDR23. The sigal was good and the sound was equivilent to a strong FM stattion, not quite as good as a CD. Overall not bad and for the price, acceptable and clear. I still would have liked line level input directly to the radio, but for now it is a good alternative to the much more expensive system. Reading about your installs, begs the question. Did you hardwire the power for the satellite radio as well? I've got a 5 volt direct power supply for my XM radio, but can't find a switched 12 volt power supply to connect to. I've been using the passenger side 12 volt outlet with power supply cord, but that drains the battery if I forget to unplug. Would really like a switched source; any input is appreciated. BTW, I'm asking about switched power supply for my 2007 Boxster S; I was able to find one on my 2001 S. Thanks
  2. Thomas, I had my Eibach's done at the dealer. I spoke to them first before ordering; they quoted me $225 to install, they also recommended an alignment which they didn't charge me full price for since they were doing the spring install. All totaled I think it was around $350.
  3. You already have your answer, thought you might like to hear from another happy customer. I have several pictures on Babblers/Gallery of my '01 S with LLTEK products. Here's one of my favorites of my car with the LLTEK skirts installed. BTW, I also installed the rear diffuser; picture attached.
  4. So far the damage estimate is up to $5000+ -- the front frame member is bent and will need to be replaced along with cover (hood), bumper cover and lights. The shop is looking for a GT3 front bumper cover to replace the Boxster S cover. I found one in LA for $900 used at pcar but the shop is still looking for better/cheaper. My barber (Corvette guy) is encouraging us to keep the Boxster as original as possible -- What are the real benefits of doing that ?? My son really wants the litronics -- lowest cost so far is Sunset Imports @ $1510. The shop owner is discouraging us from doing the lights because of the high cost. If we can get $500 from the insurance on the old lights then our cost is $1010 - split 2 ways of course. We will be putting 18" wheels and tires on in the next couple of months also -- looking at Yokohama 32R's or 48's for Ax and DE. We would appreciate any suggestions from you all ?? Thanks, Ed (Arizona) $1510 is too much for Lit's. I got mine from Pelican http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca...e_pg2.htm#item6 for $1110, (Litronic Headlight Assembly With Integrated Turn Signal, Right, 996 Carrera 2/4 (1999-01), Boxster/Boxster S (1999-04), Each Brand: Bosch). Buy the triangles anywhere for minimal cost. Also add the side markers for minimal. As for the front end, have you considered something from: LLTEK, http://www.lltek.com/porschtek/homeportek.htm. I got my diffuser and side rails from them, pre-painted; excellent experience.
  5. I put a set(s) of Super Xenon Light Bulbs (6,000K) Type: H7 on my '01S. They were much brighter than the original bulbs or other lower cost ones I'd tried. I later swaped the the whole light assembly for clear Litronic which are (obviously) even better.
  6. ...and just leave it laying on your seat? OR would you also take apart the dash, run some wire to the controller, hide the controller in a place that is easy to get to so you can replace the battery, and hopefully your garage door controller won't get stolen...kinda makes for easy entry into your house. It's a little harder to steal the car. You can also retread your tires to save money, but you wouldn't, or would YOU?
  7. Tired of the having your ugly garage door opener clipped to your sun visor or don't want to do the garage door hack, try this product: F2P Electronics . I have no affiliation with the company. It's simple to install the sender/receiver. The sender connects to the passenger side headlight brown and white wires using suppled wire taps. I mounted mine in the front trunk under the liner; instructions say to mount it underneath the headlight assembly, lots more work and not necessary since it works fine inside the trunk, plus one does not need to add extra wire nor thread the wires through the rubber grommet in the fender. The receiver connects to your existing module on your garage wall or completely replaces it. Now a couple of taps on the stalk and my garage door opens/closes. Works great.
  8. And that's only because most British Knights were right handed! Bad reason to put the steering wheel on the "wrong" side :king:
  9. Which lift did you get, where did you get it from? I'm in the market.
  10. I have a 2001 S. I noticed that the small rubber/plastic parts in front of the front wheels, under the bumper were cracked in places and loose, probably flapping at high speeds. Probably got broken entering/existing a driveway at some point. I read somewhere they are designed to provide air ventilation to the brakes. Anybody know the part number? I'd like to order them before I jack up the car to replace them.
  11. Understand. You might want to email them, they were accomodating with all my questions. They might have a way to program specifically for your car, with mods.
  12. Clubhead, have you considered using the Revo Technik serial port switches (SPS)? Here's a WEB site. http://www.revotechnik.com/products/sps.aspx I've found shops in the US that will reprogram for you and configure the SPS to your needs. It allows you to go from stock to various sport modes depending on octane of fuel used.
  13. I like the looks of the looks of the GAHH top, especially the thin defroster wires in the glass. Price seems reasonable. Does anyone think this is a DIY project, or is the mechanism simply too complicated to work with? Also, anyone know if the liner is part of the top? I'm assuming it is fully lined and insulated.
  14. I didn't put H&R on my '01 S, but did put Eibach lowering springs on it without changing the shocks. The car handles much better, is like on rails in the turns; I got about an inch of lowering. No issues per the dealer that installed them. They alligned it and did not have issues with camber on the rear; I'm watching the wear on the inside edge of the tire to be sure allignment is true and not cambered too much due to the lowering springs. Time will tell.
  15. jinijazz, I know you've gotten some answers already on this subject but I thought I'd pass my "black box" installation experience on to you. I bought the DVD set which describes in detail how to install the control unit; excellent info on how to DIY. I installed the Litronics, w/o the unit a couple of weeks ago. Yesterday I took on installing the control unit. Took me about an hour. What saved some time was not removing the trunk liner completely. I just loostened the top parts, and worked with it that way. Another thing I didn't do was drill a hole in my front trunk, rather I used the exsting rubber gasket and simply pushed the harnesses through each as described on the DVD. I found the rubber gasket easier to work with by popping them out, then pushing them backinto the fender hole; took a little effort getting them back but was easier than trying to force the wires through while in place. The control unit makes a huge difference when using high beams; rotation of the beams (up) really fills the field of vision; definitely worth the extra effort to install. BTW, I didn't solder anything or pop the pins. I simply used wire taps you can get anywhere. Makes for a very clean, easy installation. Do the install; it's not hard and well worth it.
  16. I live in Michigan, and drive the car occasionally in the winter. I put Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's on my '01 S. I love 'em. Corner well, good wet traction, got them from Tirerack.
  17. James, not sure what you mean by jumpy. If you mean wanders on the road; i.e., seems to want to change direction, I'd say it's alignment and tires. I had similar problems; my car wandered on the road. I personally think it was from my tires. I replaced them with Pilot Sport PS2's, did an alignment, and did a load balance; all done by my dealer. No issues now. In fact the car feels very solid on the road, no wandering, no vibration, and even get's smoother at higher speeds...I tested it at 120 briefly the other day...what a rush. It took me back to the days I lived in Germany and could really drive my 911 like it was meant to be driven.
  18. I don't know. It's whatever the car came with. The previous owner made no mods. Is there an easy way to tell?
  19. Some, but it corners like on a rail. Porshe dealer that did the allignment said it was within spec.
  20. No rubbing so far. These were the Eibach kit, supposedly got 1 inch lowering. I think it was a bit more. I also have side rails on it which makes it look a bit lower from the side.
  21. For not a lot of bucks, you can get a new, looking, handling Porsche machine. I put Eibach's on my '01, what a difference. Check out the enclosed side shot.
  22. I have an '01 S with 18 inch wheels, also had PZeros that were not a very good ridde. I put Michelin Sport PS2's on it; it's a brand new car and the tire is plenty wide; looks great from the rear. Also, the sizes you mentioned above will be too wide for the rims you have. You'd need to go to wider rims to accomodate the width of the tires you're thinking about (or so I was told by my tire guy at Tirerack). Also if you consider lowering the car (like I did) then you'd really have rubbing problems. Check out attached photos of rear with diffuser (shows tires).
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