Izzy

I changed the oil in the final drive for my 99 Tiptronic, current miles is 57K. I did find the oil removed was pretty dirty relative to the new oil. It was simple to do, so here are the steps and what you need. Parts: 1 liter of Porsche 75W90 gear oil (sold by the quart at dealer) 8 mm allen key wrench Suction tool (looks like large syringe, Autozone) with flexible clear hose (12-18 in length) Small syringe and clear plastic tubing (Eckerd or CVS pharmacy children medicine type) Kitty litter, since you "fill until you spill" Waste container Process: 1. Lift car up on jacks, make sure it is level 2. Remove fill/drain bolt with 8 mm allen key wrench. You may need an extension on the allen key for torque. 3. Insert clear hose of suction tool in fill hole, and retract vaccum to remove oil. When full, empty the contents in the waste container. The tube should be flexible, it is a tight squeeze to work with. 4. Repeat process until you get bubbles out, and you hear the gurgling sound 5. Now do the same with the small syringe, small tube. This will allow you to get the last bit of oil out. 6. Fill the Suction Tool 3/4 full with the new oil. 7. Insert the tube in the fill hole and push the fluid out. 8. Repeat the step above until you notice the oil splling out of the fill hole. Wait a minute to let it settle 9. Continue filling with the small syringe. The fill capacity is 0.9 Liter, so you can judge how much more you have left to fill 10. Stop the process when the syringe fill spills from the fill hole. 11. Replace the bolt and torque to 22 ft lbs. I could not fit the torque wrench, so best guessed it with allen wrench. 22 ftlbs is not much. 12. Clean spills, you are done. Warning, the gear oil will have a strong smell, if you get it on your clothes it will be hard to get off. Don't forget other safety equipment.

There are many opinions on oil viscosity, even if you ask the technicians at various dealerships. I recently changed oil and filter for summer running, Castrol Syntec 5W50. Being recently at the dealer parts department, had a chance to talk to one of the more experienced technicians. They use Mobil 0-40 for all 996-997 servicing as per Porsche (year round). When I asked about 5W50, he smiled and said that would be his recommendation for our climate (NC). Seems like they have to follow Porsche recommended in case they have issues later with an engine serviced there. I would worry more about climate for the decision. In the hot Carolina summer, 5-50 seems to work fine. I used 9.5 quarts, and the other half quart goes down with drain plug removed to help "drain" the 0-40 older oil. I pour until I see clear oil coming through. Old habit.

Any lubrication between the pin and the channel? Just wondering why it would pop besided getting too much resistance-lack of lubricity?

Sounds familiar. If you download the Katalog from Sunset with all the parts, page 375, part 6, part number 996 561 908 (or 907 depending on side) 02. This hinge has to links that break. Take a look at that picture assembly in the Katalog, and see if it is the part that broke. If it is, it is a simple swap you can do at home. About $110 as I recall. If that is not the part broken, still that page shows a pretty decent picture of what else is there. So have some one help you by opening the top, and you can gently help it along to rise so you can see if that is it. Good luck with it, put some pics if you find something else broken. You never know

Stupid question but.... Have you asked someone to drive the car while you sit in the passenger seat with the lining down, and try to pinpoint where the problem is?

My opinion is the ATF, probably due for fluid and filter change. The fluid level must be checked with the fluid at temperature. Not difficult to do if you got a temperature probe, but it does sound like needs the maintenance performed. Check the DIY for the tiptronic work, not too difficult, but can be a bit messy.

Derek, did it go backwards and forwards at the same time when you accelerated? Kidding aside, no, never seen that, but I do not normally look at the dash lights when reversing, so couldn't tell you. After turning it off and on, is it still clunking? If it was just the light, I would look to see if the reverse lights go on when you put it in reverse. If not, it could be the reverse switch. The mileage is not high, but with the age I wonder if it is low in transmission fluid or needs to be changed (and filter).

Part of the smell could also be the "cosmoline" like material used to cover the engine during shipping, and stays on as corrosion protection. I got a 99 with 56K miles, and still have the coating on most of the engine, which is amazing to me. And the smell is still there. If you where ever in the army, and "missbehaved" or where missunderstood by your superiors, probably got cosmoline cleaning duty of rifles, or guns, etc. Very similar smell when it burns off as the engine of the 996. Add the basic smell for exhaust, and it could be it what you get.

While you are back there too, before or after cleaning the MAF, look also for all the airbox connectors to be be tight. May be sucking some air too through a loose hose. Check the air filter too. get all the screws secured around the air box, hose clamps, etc. May need an air filter too. Cracked airbox also, just in case.

And I was just joking about our silly big news this morning, Crime Stoppers showed a picture of two guys in a pet store, who stole a $600 puppy. It made the TV morning news. I kind of like my little town......

I have both Pocketlogger and the Autoenginuity for Palm. Just got the second one yesterday, so will do some evaluations/opinions later this weekend. So far looks like the Autoenginuity does a better job than Pocketlogger, but I will evaluate them side by side and give you all my findings. Thanks Izzy

There are some instructions in the DIY section. The third radiator install shows how to remove the bumper cover.

I sent you a PM with some information. Let me know if that is it.

Do a quick search under expansion, or coolant, or tank. There are a few write ups with pictures and instructions. If you got the replacement tank, it is a DIY. Common problem

Eric, Got regular GHL's on mine. Bought them used from a member here. Look in Ebay too, just in case. I got the Schnell cold air intake too. I have seen their mufflers also in Ebay, hard to tell from a picture the quality of build. Forget the sound. From the picture, looked like a lot of carburation was visible near the weld lines, not a good sign. Can lead to problems later on if they did not passivate the welds. Fabspeeds seem well made. You can probably listen to the PSE's at the dealer, they may have a car with them on already. One fun fact with either Fabspeed or GHL, if you rev the engine in a multilevel garage, you can hear the chirping of a few car alarms getting the vibes.

I have installed Fabspeed and Ghylls both. I have a Cabrio, and found the Fabspeed too loud for my taste, the resonance was . Tried re-installing a few times until giving up. Now have Ghylls, and they are less loud. What I can tell, is the Fabs where pretty much louder on all bands. The GHL's seem to be a bit louder to 3500 RPM, from then upwards have the same "snarl" as the Fabspeed. For my use, not too loud on the normal city driving, but get the effect on the track at higher RPM's. Many have the Fabspeeds here and it is perfect for them. On a coupe, you may not find them too loud. If you end up buying these, try looking up Fabspeed dealers, they can give you better prices than buying direct. The main thing is the effect of having the higher performance mufflers. I hung stocks, Fabspeeds, and GHL's a few times (on-off) during the same weekend. It was a very noticeable difference in the throttle response with the high performance mufflers. The stocks felt "constricted", which sounds crazy for a 911. But it was interesting to compare the noise level, vibration level, and throttle response back to back on the same car. All subjective measurements, I know. But you will enjoy high perfomance mufflers on this car. Izzy

Sent you a PM with the goods

I believe so. You should disconnect the battery first, then there are 2 torx screws that hold it in place from behind. There was a picture somewhere here. I will see if I still have the link

There is a DIY on the retrofit with part numbers. Is that what you are looking for? I have seen previos threads, it is doable with the anthena and wires.

I would try E-bay. I have had good cars and sold cars there. I only buy from dealers (my option) and research their feedback. I can't do that locally since I would not find so many people that have purchased cars from one dealer. In E-bay, you can even go to the extent of e-mailing past customers from dealers to see how their rides worked out. And a dealer may have hundreds of cars sold, so you can get a lot of responses. You can request an "inspection" review for a fee too. I personally like that information. But like anything else, you have to balance risk and reward which is different for each person. I felt the risk of buying remote cars at a much lower price is worth it when balanced with the knowledge of previous customers and did I mention price?

I need your opinions, since I have read conflicting information in various sources. Got a set of Eibach springs in the garage, and was toying with the idea of replacing the stocks with these. I do track the car, and was looking to go a little faster in the twisties, lower the COG, etc. I can imagine and understand a shock being compressed, having the fluid past the valve in the air chamber. As a spring-dashpot effect, the more fluid would act as more incompressible fluid in the expansion chamber, higher pressure for the remaining fluid to enter the chamber has to have a bumpier ride, harsher absorption. Not sure if that does have a long term effect on the shocks, can't imagine how it would unless the constant pressure in the valve creates a different failure through static pressure instead of cyclic? Regardless, what is the experience out there with just changing springs and keeping standard US shocks? Izzy

Do you have the owner's manual? There is detail there on checking and aiming the headlights when they come out of alignment. If you don't have it, download it from this site, I believe the same instructions are there too. I have daylight running lights in mine too (not from factory, but just by connecting 2 fuses) and they both aim straight. Can you verify if the lights are any different with the light switch fully on?

An I can say with authority that Manuel, the Spanish name, does not have 2 "L"s, only one. So the first theory is wrong. Izzy

Phil, I have a 99 cabrio, 56K miles, no issues. It is my daily driver and I track it every chance I get. I got it with 30K miles, no real issues. I try keep all the fluids fresh (since I track it) and the radiators clean. I agree with you, driving it every day is awesome. I wonder if there are any statistics, like Consumer Reports, regarding the engines or the cars. I think my wife got a month subscription to the on-line service (for Kitchen gadgets, and it is going to cost me). I will research it and post it here. That way will be at least a siginificant population and less personal experiences. I am sure there is an error in their reportout, but has to be less than asking a few people. More to come Izzy

Krista, I thought I was the only member in Charlotte, good to know you are here too. Let me know if you are interested in any work sessions or track days. I am planning to do the OBC install (4-stalk) in a couple of weeks. Don't recall from your picture if I have seen your car. I work uptown. Izzy