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Everything posted by utkinpol

  1. Hi, have anyone had issues with rear spoler button to stop working? it was always fine but recently it just stopped doing anything. LED does not light up neither. To make things more interesting, when i looked it up with durametric in an electrical 'input values' tab i do see when i press this button with engine working it changes a value for 'sport button' parameter, 'rear spoiler raise' button value does not change. so it thinks now this spoiler button is a sport mode button? how come? If i go into Rear ECU section and activate spoiler up/down it works fine, it also works fine on the road at speed. Only button for some weird reason got re-mapped somehow? How could it happen if ECU was not altered? Car does not have sport mode, it is a regular non-PASM C2 car with Softronic ECU flash, and spoiler button always worked fine.
  2. Hi, What is the situation with 997 m96 motors made with most recent bearing design? Obviously it cost prohibitive to split the case to replace bearing, so, what are the options? I am tracking my car since i got it in '09 , it is MY06 made in july, new bearing design. Reading all info above does not add up much confidence
  3. Hi, I think i may have damaged MAF sensor - at 3rd lap at DE car threw CEL and durametric showed multiple misfires on all cylinders. as it is not very likely to damage all valve lifters at once so i would like to hope it is MAF sensor. Plus i just cleaned K&N filter i had and sprayed a bit of WD40 on it, just a bit but probably it was enough. So after DE I came home, gave sensor a good bath in a MAF cleaner, started up car, it ran a bit with no CEL, then gave CEL again. engine does misfire, torque is lost a lot, there is some vibration but engine does not stall. I will get durametric in a couple of days to see list of codes but meanwhile i used my AiM logger and in race studio i see MAF data channel from ODB2 port shows reasonable data - in 5-8 on idle, when stepped on throttle it goes up to 70-80 and may be above, so, sensor does not seem to be totally dead. But car still misfires like crap - so, should it do it if sensor is, like, a bit off from its calibration? Could anybody give detailed data on what voltage should come out from MAF sensor on idle and, say, at 2K and 4K rpm? car is 2006 997 C2, 3.6L engine, MAF sensor model is 986... something, i can check it later again if it is critical.
  4. Ok. It is all very interesting. I would say this - if you are not into serious competitive auto sport and you do not care to keep your car stock - go with TPC. Look up on 997 forum on 6speedonline.com - there is a huge thread there about this mod. if will set you up to $12K-$15K to get it done. FI on 997 C2S is doable and delivers plenty of power. Now, if you want my opinion - better solution, much better solution actually is to bite the bullet and get stock GT3 RS if you got that serious feeling inside that you are a track junkie. When you get serious into any racing it starts to play major role to see in what class do you fit. All those severe customizations like rebuilding engine and putting FI kit on it will put you together with cars in completely different league. I am an owner of C2 car and I am rebuilding it to some degree as well and also considered putting FI system on it - either a TPC turbo or used EVO supercharger. I already have front GT3 LCAs, GT3 rear sway bar, and debating right now what coilover set to put on. All that is doable and will improve base car a lot. Still, if you do have finances for it - starting from stock GT3 car would be completely different game. If you can afford it - do it and you will not regret. But do not try to put GT3 motor into C2S - 'transforming' whole C2S car into GT3 will cost you much more than simple trade-in of you C2S for same year used GT3 car.
  5. I know your post is quite old and maybe you've already made your decision on chipping or not chipping however if you haven't chipped yet and its still an option I think I can definitely help you out.... I purchased the ECU tuning package for my C2S from softronic tuning (vivid racing) just two weeks ago... Its very simple to do (no need to remove ecu and send it or anything like that) you just hook up your laptop to ur car thru a cable they provide and run the software which reads your ecu and sends them the info thru the internet.... two days later you receive thru email a tuned file and an original stock file, from then all you do is upload which ever file you want on to your car and voila!!! Unfortunately I had to travel once they sent me my tuned file so in about two weeks I will be back home and will upload my tuned file.... Once I upload my tuned file I will definitely post my impressions and tell you whether I advise on purchasing it or not... the great thing about this way of tuning is that you can at anytime just flip back to stock settings very easily... (warranty purposes) Though I would advise on getting your self a new exhaust, I personally got the porsche sports exhaust and am very happy with the sound, no performance increase but the sound is great and makes it feel as if your going faster than you really are, plus this is what a Porsche should sound like anyways (sporty).... The exhaust definitely changed the overall experience of the drive... Anyways will keep you posted... Where softronic flash makes most difference is the full utilization of improved air flow. So essentially modifying exhaust you need to put 200 cell cats on, mufflers may be kept stock and in airbox put in BMC oiled air filter panel. that is all one needs to do for NA car.
  6. It does not say there about thickness, only about cracks. I would say this - buy new set of rotors from suncoast as you will need them anyway, measure new rotors, then measure total thickness of you current ones and if measured difference is more than 5mm - it is time to put new ones on already even if you do not have cracks. may be somebody could run it up until 10mm total diff but imho 5mm of wear is a good threshhold.
  7. Hi, If there is anyone here who did coilover installs - could you comment if this job requires any special tools to depress anything or not? I am going with JIC Cross coils which have their own upper camber plate mounts so it is a complete replacement without a need to disassemble stock shocks. Thanks, Paul.
  8. I just got GT3 rear bar installed on my '06 997 C2 several days ago with tarett links and I all can say - I do not understand why car did not come originally like this. They should have simply used GT3 suspension on all cars they make. I used middle mount points so far but difference is really very noticeable.
  9. another hint about optical ring - if when you press main+trip all other items also do not show up proper versions - that means it is broken. of course it makes sense if you have any other devices sitting on it like cd changer, bose amp, etc. if it is a none-bose system with nav and pcm head unit only then it is more difficult to establish. one more thing nevertheless - when you disconnect those optical cables from DVD and turn on pcm one of those cables should light up. if both are black with no light and PCM is on - that means it gets no signal from PCM.
  10. It should be able to give disk back... That eject button - does it light up when you turn car`s ignition on? Check if unit gets power, then check if optical ring is intact - good way would be to disconnect optical cable from DVD unit and attach bypass loop to it so this way you can check if PCM will tell it broken or not. All you can do without tools is probably to make sure unit gets power, for rest you may need to surrender to your dealer and this is not a warranty work. 'actual' line should have nimber like 00179606/3306 or something like that and not be blank. NAV error upon PCM startup usually signifies that optical ring is broken - disconnect battery, then disconnect optical cable from DVD then connect back battery, trn on PCM and see what errors it gives out, then disconnect negative wire from battery again, connect everything back to DVD unit, connect back and turn PCM on and compare errors - if they are same then it is optical ring. Check that optical wire. May be it simply got disconnected from DVD. would also worth to check connection behind PCM but it is not easy to reach.
  11. Go between different color liquids - blue or pink. This way you always know if you bled lines fully or not - when it changes color. You need 2 bottles to put into bleeder, and second probably will not be used fully depending of how much of it will you waste during bleeding.
  12. Have you tried the good ol' fashioned "Italian tune-up"? Take them out and run 'em up near the redline making as much noise as you can, and hold it there a bit. Mine likes that sort of thing, and they all were designed for it. Personally, I stay away from 2000 rpm and a light throttle as much as possible. I run fabspeed x-pipe with 200cell cats and had fabspeed maxflo mufflers - now instead of maxflos I reverted back to stock mufflers to reduce noise - so with stock mufflers hesitation _almost_ never happens. When ECU tunes timing way up high to start this hesitation again I simply disconnect battery so it re-tunes itself and hesitation disappears. Difficult to say what conditions do tune ECU into this problem but it is reversible and I think it is simply a feature - not a bug, if you have system pushed closer to free flow exhaust - you gain a lot of pull in top RPM area but get those oddities in 1K-2K rpm section. Just learn not to give full throttle right after dropping rpms from 4K-5K back to 1K while on second gear. That is when it happens, so, just blip it gently half throttle until you get into 2K and then give full throttle.
  13. thank, I did not know that. Yes, I did not expect to drain coolant... But it is also not a smart idea I think to keep stock swaybar in front having GT3 swaybar in rear. Hmm... Thanks, I got to scratch my head a bit now...
  14. Hi, I got rear GT3 sway bar with tarett droplinks, now I want to put front 997 GT3 swaybar as well - could anybody confirm if it requires tarett droplinks as well or may be mounted with stock C2 droplinks? If yes, could you please post a picture of how exactly it fits?
  15. So, no one here ever had M96/M97 engine rebuilt for racing with supercharger/turbo on it? That`s sad.
  16. change your own oil. at last change I did 6qt of mobil1 15w50 plus 2qt of mobil1 5w50. for winter I will do 4qt 15w50 mix with 4qt of 5w50, same mobile1. Am curious why the "witch's brew " on the oil ? ( Couldn't resist the pun) Assuming you feel this mix is better than either of the multi weight oils you're using, how are you making that determination ? some folks run 15w50 exclusively. it should work fine for summer when temperatures are above 60 degrees. for winter 15w50 is way too thick when cold and it is bad for hydraulic lifters. so you need to dillute it. or run on 5w50 oil all winter long and in May change it to 15w50. as of 'why' question - i just follow some already established ways how it gets done, it is not my know-how.
  17. Hi, I am curious to know if there is anybody here who ever did both racing rebuilt of M9605 engine with bore to 102.7mm to enlarge displacement together with any FI system like VF-E or turbo. Let me know - I am curious what max boost did you run and if you had any issues one should know about.
  18. change your own oil. at last change I did 6qt of mobil1 15w50 plus 2qt of mobil1 5w50. for winter I will do 4qt 15w50 mix with 4qt of 5w50, same mobile1.
  19. It`s very liberal for you to call gang members 'kids'. Those "kids" place is to be hanged on a nearby tree.
  20. If you decide to go with lightweight one - LWFW with stock clutch may result in broken crankshaft. Research this issue a bit - you will find recommendations on what to do, like to use clutch disk with springs to minimize harmonic vibrations, etc. Google it and look it up on rennlist forums as well.
  21. Check this thread - I think of all aftermarket mods this one will give you best power boost possible. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/997/192...y-soon-p-2.html
  22. 997 NA engine can support way more power than it delivers in stock form. Bunch of people run it on forced induction up to 8psi generating about of 450 horses at wheels and still car runs and runs and nothing breaks, well, at least right away. :) There are always horror stories about this but majority of supercharged cars and turboed NA cars run just fine. So I would not loose my sleep over all this. Starting any extreme modding it is just probably worth gettin mind set of some cash aside for case if you do blow your motor and need new one. It may happen. It is a minor probability, but it is there. I am for sure doing VF-E supercharger next year or year after next year, as my car will go out from CPO status and honestly cannot wait for that. :) It is fun, after all. Right now on my '06 C2 I run stock headers, fabspeed x-pipe 200 cell cats, fabspeed maxflo mufflers, ipd plenum, oiled K&N air filter with softronic flash and all that together probably added 20-30 horses, according to dyno charts I got more that that but it is subjective measurement. I would not be concerned about relative measurements - what gets changed after all that is engine overall responsiveness, torque curve gets much more flat and this is what matters most - instead of spotty behavior across RPM range you motor will simply start pulling like crazy in whole 3K-7K rpm area and it changes everything, pretty much. Different dynamics.
  23. What are the recommended time and/or miles to avoid this? There is simple rule of thumb - change your oil every autumn each year just before it gets colder. At least. If you track your car you know that you need fresh oil between every new set of track days. Buy set of Rhino ramps ($30), oil pan ($20), then get mobil 1 5w50 or similar oil and do it in your own garage. oil filter can be ordered online from suncoastporsche.com or other place. It is very simple, really. As of how to avoid issues - listen to engine, if hydraulics gets cloged you will hear it. Key thing here is not to ignore sudden change of engine sound. If valve lifter gets stuck you will hear it, it will knock quite loudly. Just do not ignore it.
  24. Here and on rennlist and just this week on 6speedonline there is constantly somebody who has '05 car and engine failure due to IMS bearings. So if you really like that '05 car - get it with CPO warranty. Nevertheless, just in that last week case guy did not have warranty and got his engine replaced by Porsche and had to pay just $3K for labor costs - which is a lot too but less than $20K for new motor. If I were you (as I were last summer) - I would pass on any '05 car. In the beginning of 2006 all 997 engines started receiving single row IMS bearing that has less issues with lubrication compared to original double row bearing in earlier models. Based from 3 different forum activities I have not yet seen a single complaint from owner of MY '06+ car related to IMS failure. There is no guarantee of that, but, fact is fact - there is nobody yet on 06+ car who would get this problem. So - when I had a chance to get better optioned 05 C2S I went with 06 C2. It will cost a bit more but I think it will worth it. Also, try to get a CPO car if you can.
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