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0586slb

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Everything posted by 0586slb

  1. Sorry Loren, busy with my long reply as you replied with the fuse C3 info! Chris
  2. I'm surprised think the control unit is faulty straight away, as the re-lock option is configurable with the PST2 for on/off, how many seconds to re-lock etc. Having looked at the wiring diagram, the interior lights are powered in the following way: The positive comes from Bus Bar 7, 'Consumer Switched Off' which stays live for about 10 if alarm off, engine off. If car locked and alarm active, BB7 is switched off. Individual components have the negative (earth) side switched to control the individual device. Other things supplied from BB7 are: Luggage compartment light Front Luggage compartment light Rear Make-Up mirror Left Make-Up mirror Right Seat Memory. Are any of these working? BB7 is switched from the alarm control unit. Has the plug been disturbed? Look at pin II/4 and II/8 on the alarm CU. OK? Finally, fuse C3 (15A) is worth a check.
  3. Valcax, Don't get too down hearted. Your pride and bumpers are hurt only, so be thankful for that. As others have mentioned, the car will outperform all but the best of drivers, I'll stick my hand up and say I'm still learning. The tyre contact patch is about the size of the palm of your hand, its asking a lot to tame 1 tonne of metal thats capable of more than 150mph. The key to good driving is smoothness, whether on the track or going to the shops. Progressive throttle, feeding brakes and smooth steering are rewarded. Snatch any of the controls (including lifting off throttle too quickly) will have the four handfuls of rubber grasping for grip. Even with PSM, if you are stupid the car will bite you. All Porsches have been considered a 'slow in - fast out' car for the corners. Looking at your car set up, you have 18" wheels with a N4 compound on a 2.5 Boxster. This is hard to comment as Porsche have not approved an 18" setup for that car. Perhaps the wheel offset may be incorrect for your car and adversely affected the handling? Also, most factory 18" setups require a N1 tyre. (You asked what tyre choice people recommend? I swear by Michelin Pilot Sport N1)
  4. Brian, Coolant warning lamp: on when ignition switched on, goes off when engine started. If it comes on steady when engine is running, coolant too hot. If it flashes, coolant level too low. Cooling system is notoriously difficult to carry out effective bleeding, so yes level could appear correct but still have insufficient liquid in the system. There's two long horizontal pipe runs at the lowest part of the car if you think about it. If the dealer had to drain you system, get them to refill it again. The total (from empty) capacity is about 12 litres. The 'third radiator' thread is good to explain how to fill the system to capacity.
  5. You haven't mentioned the Year/make/model of car or model/options of your radio... The first stage it comes on is at about 50mph, the second about 75mph.
  6. You sometimes get an eggy smell from some catalytic converters (too much sulphur in the petrol) but if you are definite that it is coming from the front, in the area you have described, have you ruled out 'green eyed monster' activity? You may have parked somewhere and some jealous person may have hurled a stink-bomb at it or someting. :o
  7. All German cars use fittings and fasteners that are metric. Use the correct metric size or you risk rounding out. For drain plugs like this, I use a hex key that fits my rachet so you can get good pressure on the plug and turn it cleanly. Serious bleeding question: would you be able to park nose down on the steepest hill you can find and idle for a few minutes operating the bleeding valve?
  8. In response to the lonley guy's problem, even if you have negative camber, if the toe on the rear is set for too much 'toe in' - this will wear the outside of the tyres. This is because both wheels are trying to steer inwards, thus scrubbing the outer edge of the tyres.
  9. Just done an all round tyre change on my 986S with Pilot N1s. The rears showed exactly the same kind of wear as Tool Pants' tyres (although they were still legal [sheez Jeff, that was an oversight on your behalf :huh: ]) so I had an alignment check at the OPC. Everything was in spec, so I presume the correct setup is to have negative camber on the rears (top of the wheels inclined inwards - for the non familiar) so the contact patch of the tyre is flatter in heavy cornering. (p.s. You guys appear to be spelling 'tyre' incorrectly :rolleyes: :lol: )
  10. I think they say a picture is worth a thousand words!! You say the "top's latch recess" - that can't be where the top latches to the windscreen frame(?) I'm presuming you mean in the area where the top folds down into? Here's my two guesses - if the threads are internal and it does look like a cap, it may be from the top of an oil bottle, these are sealed again so thats why theres no sign of fluid. If the threads are on the outside, it may be part of the buffer that the clamshell rests on when closed. Otherwise its a bit like "Guess the colour I'm thinking of?" "No, it was more of a lighter brown" :D :P Please post a pic to put us out of our misery ;)
  11. The cars are generally the same - but: 1. The speedometer and odometer will be calibrated in mph. 2. The rear bumpers have little extensions each side of the license plate (bumperettes) 3. There are small extra 'sidelights' in the front and rear light clusters (running lights?) 4. Some cars from different parts of the US have differing exhaust gas treatment - California has more stringent air laws for example.
  12. Its extremely easy and detailed in your owner's manual. Just a half turn with the designated headlight removal tool you'll find in the toolkit.
  13. Are there any access panels to the engine from the inside of the car on the 996? I ask because after my Boxster went in for some work, it had 'unusual' noises when it came back out. This was traced to the access panel behind the seats not sealing correctly (just needed reseated)
  14. If your engine was nice and warm, with oil at reasonable temperature (which you said it was) I'm sure your engine will forgive you! Its worse if you over-rev your engine through a bad gear change. Maximum power is listed to occur at 6800 rpm for your car. Enjoy it! :clapping: :drive:
  15. Jonathan, 2.5l Boxster (M26.20) 996.606.405.01 2.7l Boxster (M26.22) 996.606.410.00 3.2l Boxster S (M26.21) 996.606.410.00 Ask for a sealing washer too. ECT accessable at the front of the engine, remove the cover behind the seats and you see it screwed into the coolant guide assembly - to the right of the crankshaft pully as you look at it.
  16. There's an E12 torx screw at the front of each seat runner. Have either of these come loose? Move the seat fully back, pull the rail covers off by pulling towards the front of the car to expose the torx screws.
  17. The Engine Coolant Temperature sensor is the same physical device that provides temp info to the ECU and to the instrument cluster. However when you get to it, you'll see its a four terminal device - there's two separate NTC resistors inside that are electrically isolated from each other. One can go bad and the other work perfectly. If you borrow an OBDII scanner, when the engine is cold, check for your fault codes but also check the value the ECU reports for the engine temperature. It's a wide range sensor, so should read ambient temperature no matter how warm or cold.
  18. Most airbag circuits have a standing time you have to wait after the power is disconnected. This is to allow the energy in the capacitors in the airbag module to dissipate and render the system safe to work on. The capacitors are in the firing circuit to provide the energy to deploy the airbag, if for instance, the battery connections are disturbed or a part of your body hits and damages the ignition switch during an impact. This standing time is generally 10 minutes, 20 mins on some - so I usually wait half an hour!! If you have removed the airbag in this time, the module can set a code and the warning light will illuminate on switch on. Once the airbag is out of its storage crate or the vehicle, place cushion side up - this way if it goes off with static it does not become a 200mph projectile. ! ! * WARNING * ! ! NEVER TEST THE RESISTANCE OF THE AIRBAG. Just let the control module tell you if its bad. There's enough energy from a multimeter on resistance range to deploy the bag.
  19. Any OBDII tester that uses the ISO9141 hardware implementation layer (K-line) will work to read generic P-codes from the ECM. However, as you suggest, I don't think there is anything available aftermarket to read diagnostic trouble codes from the other modules in the car (air bag, PCM, ABS etc). A lot of the newer cars have the modules communicate over the CAN bus, but I don't know if there is a connection to the CAN bus at the diagnostic connector. However, even if the CAN bus does go to the diagnostic connector, the software for the diagnostic machine will have to be written to decipher the Porsche protocol. Its a bit like there being a number of devices that use RS232, but unless you know the comms protocol, if you connected to it you would just get garbage. A person/company that could (but unfortunately won't) tackle this is Uwe Ross from Ross Tech LLC, author and distributor of Vag-Com for VW, Audi SEAT & Skoda vehicles. This program is just as good as the official workshop VAS5051/2, the equivalent of the PIWIS for Porsche. Unfortunately, the potential market for a reverse engineered PIWIS, is too small to substantiate development.
  20. Porsche Warranty in UK is *just* two years from PCGB. There is no such thing as the 8 year emissions warranty for the UK. Porsche have just reduced the extended warranty from £900 to £700 for one year. I figured that as I have had my RMS replaced just before the warranty expired, I'd bank the £700 in a 'car fund' and try to wing it for a year. If nothing goes wrong with the car, I'll bank another £700. My wallet was still throbbing from a £545 24K service and couldn't take another hit :(
  21. Taking inspiration from LVDell's post, the trottle body sometimes gets a ring of muck build up around where the butterfly sits, but this does not figure if it idles OK when warm. Worth looking at though.
  22. Without you posting any fault codes, it'll have to be a 'finger in the air' guess, so I'd try suggesting an Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, as you can get implausible values from this without the CEL illuminating. The ECT sensor can fail making the engine think its hot all the time, so does not enrich the mixture on cold start, hence it will start lumpy and smooth when warm. Any OBDII scanner will show you the fault code or if no code, will show the ECT as hot when you've left it overnight. Or it could be something entirely different..(!)
  23. The illumination wire colour is grey/blue (grey with a blue tracer). This provides the positive (controlled with the dimmer control) for the illumination. The ground is brown. The illumination in the switch is not a bulb, its an LED so will only light if the wires are connected the right way round! Other areas to watch for is the to make sure the (horrible) wire taps are making a good connection. The best way to tap into a circuit is to extract the crimp from a connector, cut off the old crimp and re-crimp with your wir in place.
  24. Thanks to both of you. I'm probably going to have a go later this week, just for a look! :)
  25. Which of the forums did you search? Spend the bank holiday morning looking through the entire forum dedicated to Boxster soft top issues and I know you'll find what you need in here. Its a transmission problem thats very well known on your car. If you're still stuck, post your question there and not in the 996/997 forum.
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