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PorschePRH

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Everything posted by PorschePRH

  1. See if you can win an auction for walking boots and apply them to this auction! I'd leave negative feedback for all the funny business first, because he will probably leave negative feedback for you. Since that wing is not a Misha, expect quality issues. Not all fiberglass is created equal, and the weirdness of this auction you can bet his is low quality. You will most likely get stress cracks and fiberglass fibers showing through the gel coat over time.
  2. The easier solution is to just buy the whole electronics and vacuum kit on e-bay or from someone on the forums selling it cheap. Should be less than $100 easily -- or maybe even free because so many people don't use it. If you struggle to find each part you need, you will end up spending a lot of wasted time. Just use what you need and pitch the rest.
  3. Definitely get a lawyer. That's not the kind of charge you want sitting on your record.
  4. try bug and tar remover to see if the dirt is oil based. don't scrub too hard, it will make it worse if you take the paint off. wheels need to be cleaned and waxed regularly inside (every 6 months) to avoid permanent staining.
  5. it should be below those codes. it should say something like body color. those codes are the options, not the colors. post everything it says on the sticker.
  6. Since you bought it used, are you sure they are factory side skirts? If not they could be fiberglass replicas and they are often not a perfect fit...
  7. The more critcal aspect is that each lug is torqued to the same amount. Otherwise you put uneven stress on the brake rotors and they will warp over time as they go through heat cycles. Also, hand torque is the way to go and never ever "machine torque" the wheels with an air impact wrench. If you are accustom to seeing tire shops use those to tighten your wheels, then you are accustom to seeing them doing it wrong all the time. They don't care -- it's not their car anyway. And no way you be able to pin warped rotors on them. There is no way they can accurately or consistently torque the lugs with those things. In fact, it's much better if your wheels never see those tools. They tend to easily scrap the finish as well.
  8. The opinion is that the bumper is pure rice. So if you like that, go for it!
  9. If the car moves with the clutch pedal fully depressed, then you have a clutch problem and not a gearbox problem. The transmission should be completely out of the picture when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Maybe caused the grabbing feel too. It could have been that your clutch system just needed bleeding or adjusting and they ended up fixing that as part of the new tranny. But hey, at least you didn't have to pay cash for the change, only time and enjoyment.
  10. It all depends on what offset you are starting with on the wheels. LV, your front wheels look like they stick out a lot more before the spacer than turbo-twist-look wheels that came stock on my car. What offset are they?
  11. The clip that is on the shock? I broke one and just used a tie wrap to hold it to the same mounting hole.
  12. check and see if you have an air filter like the K&N type. they let a lot more noise out the intake. considering the exhaust mods, i wouldn't be surprised to see intake mods.
  13. A lot of people with 7mm on front and 15 or 17 on the rear....
  14. Considering that the factory bolts are $8/each, I didn't think the $10 was so bad from Boothe.... They look 10 times better.
  15. I have had this same issue happen around 4-5 times over the last 15 months of owning my 2004 C4S. The radio lights up with no sound when I start the car. If I shut the radio off and/or car, the problem still exists. If I wait a 30-60 minutes and start the car, problem resolved. This may have something to do with heat but either way this is a gremlin that Porsche should address with Bose. I too will request them to look into it when I bring my car in for its first service. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Me too. And I have seen others post the same thing on other Forums. It's a common problem. Add it to the long list of imperfect traits of this car.
  16. Is there anyway to connect a tape deck to the MOST head (by going in through the CD changer port) or buy a MOST head with a tape deck? Those tape deck adapters give a lot better sound than the FM modulators....
  17. If by "local automotive store" you mean something like a Pep Boys, I recommend finding a commercial auto body/paint supply store that sells paint and commerical grade products. I go to one in Houston and they have all the good 3M stuff...How those people work in there all day with the paint fumes, I will never figure out, though... I just picked up a variable speed buffer with all the pads and various products -- I'm dangerous now!
  18. Have you tried again lately? Mine decides it's not going to put out any sound about 1 out of every 30 starts.... I read on some old messages that this is not uncommon...
  19. I can only recommend that you clean the area very well and then over time watch exactly where the leak is coming from and how fast it is leaking. In the pic, there's just a little bit of oil spread everywhere.
  20. Ok....Let's see if we can help you. The bumper is held on with screws. So you aren't doing any "body work" in the traditional sense. I found someone selling a C4s bumper in red since he took it off to replace with an aftermarket bumper of a different style. The widebody and the narrow body are the same in width from the front to just behind the doors. In other words, widebodies are not wider all around. When you buy the bumper, make sure you get all the grills, the lower lip, and the eyebrows that go around the bottom of the headlights. If you don't it will cost you big time to buy them separately. Just say no to anyone selling you just the bumper without these things. If you need to paint the bumper, take it to a body shop by itself to be painted. But let them look at your car to match the paint. It's much easier for them to work on it off the car and you don't want your car getting all dirty in a paint shop if it doesn't need to be there. Better yet, if you can let your car sit idle for some time, take off the original bumper and take both of them there so they can paint match it to the original bumper. Now, slap yourself real hard and say to yourself "I can do this!"
  21. Thanks for the props! If that's the bumper you want, you have got to find another body shop. That's sad that they can't handle anything that is not direct. Very uncool. Keep in mind that I did the C4s bumper myself in my garage. I take my time, and it probably took 2 hours since I wasn't familiar with removing the old bumper. It should take an experience body shop 45 minutes. You can always just have them paint it and then do the install yourself, or find another shop to install it for you, or even better, invite the local Porsche DIY club to help you and pay them in beer and pizza...
  22. There was another thread about this exact same thing on another forum. In that case, it was someone with an 2004 that the dealer was saying the brakes needed replacing due to rust on the customer's dime! Take it somewhere else and get another opinion. I just changed all 4 pads (disks were fine) for less than $100 for all 4 wheels with upgraded aftermarket pads. If you don't wait for the pads to wear all the way down, you don't need to replace any sensors. Rotors are very thick pig iron, and I too find it hard to believe that rust would have any more effect beyond cosmetic for a car that is only 5 years old. If you really want some help around here, take some quality photos of the rotor. I am a little weary of that 5-10% loss of braking component. Even the so-called best mechanics come up with some pretty good bs to pad their commissioned sales of parts and service on non-warranty work.
  23. Anything against ordering them through the mail from a discount parts company like the ones that sponser this board?
  24. Yes. Do a search. Tons of topics on this. Here's one: http://www.funcarsonline.com/ubbthreads/sh...true#Post108035
  25. Because the timing of engines is set before top-dead-center, it's harder for an electric starter to turn the engine when it's hot. Cold engines don't fire right away, but just-run warm engines fire on the first spark. The end result is the starter is fighting to push the cylinder to the top of the stroke while the explosion is pushing it the other way (backwards). Combine that with the fact that all the electrical components are less efficient when they are hot and you can see how a weak battery could put the whole system out of balance. So much so, that on my old 75 Mercury with a big block, I ended designing and installing an automatic timing delay relay to the ignition coil so that the starter could build momentum of the engine before power was fed to the coil to spark the cylinders.
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