PorschePRH

I agree that it makes the car feel heavier, I guess we're using torque instead of revs. You could always tap it down on the wheel switches I suppose.... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yes, I do that a lot. First it's a pain to remember to do it at every stoplight. Second the car jerks when you down shift it to 1st even if you are at a stand still. And third, the tranny shifts funny when you do the buttons as opposed to when it does it itself. Sometimes it lunges into the next gear, other times it clunks into it. So you just swap one annoying aspect for another...

A lot of people are having this problem because they chose to cut corners and use a cheap metal for the spring and it doesn't last... Oh well. By the way, if you are having trouble closing yours, it's a simple solution. You have the latch mechanism mis-aligned. Your catch is rubbing on the sides of the slots in the latch. Just loosen the 2 screws under the carpet cover and move the latch to the left or right and up or down as needed. You can use a flashlight and look how it will align when it's almost closed. I just the did the repair above on my 2003. Here were my experiences: 1) I did have the steal plate. It's a non factor to remove and replace, just make sure you don't pinch the electric wires when you re-install. 2) I could not find a way to completely remove the latch because I have 3 cables, not 2, and the electrical wire holding it. Two of the cables pop out, but the other one does not come out on the latch end. You would have to find out where the other end of the cable goes to thread it back. But alas, you can do all of this inspection and adjustment without completely removing the latch. 3) My spring was not out of it's hole. So I just used a pair of pliers to violently bend the spring backwards to give it more tension. 4) Like I said above, the alignment of the latch is super critical. If it rubs, you won't get that little spring to push up against the rubbing. Now my hood pops up to the point where it's easy to get to the latch. It doesn't pop up as much as it could, but it's enough. And since I bought the car with this problem, I don't know how high it should really pop up. But I am happy now.

No matter how I drive, my car almost always starts out in 2nd. I would pay money to change that. It makes the car feel much heavier. Only on 2 occasions did it start in 1st. Both times it was when the car was cold starting off in the morning. But by the time the car was restarted it stopped doing it. It was bliss for a brief moment.

Should be able to buy these by the dozens from those that have put on side skirts...

Popping on decel is cool, especially if you have flames coming out of the exhaust.

I think tire rack or one of those will tell you what sizes fit on which rims. And unless you absolutely don't want to turn a wrench yourself, just answer your own spacer questions after you put the tires on the wheels. Spacers are by definition super easy to add and subtract. When the wheels are on the car, you will know what to do.

Doesn't look like a 40th would make it any easier. The only hard part is the bumper re-inforcement. And that is part of the car, not the bumper, so that will be a problem with either. Some have said they just spray it flat black and you don't see it through the holes. That's probably what I will do. The one available to me is already painted red and it happens to be from a C4S, which some people seem say looks better because of the extra cover at the base of the middle of the bumper (so you don't see the ground). And the one available to me is already cheap and requires no finishing, so it's extra cheap!

Yes, it is. Anyone know if there are any complications to fitting it though?

Hi, Can anyone tell me ( yes, that means you Loren :) ) if an 02 C4S front bumper will fit directly on an 03 C2? Thanks! PRH

My 03 blows as cold as any car I have had (and I have had a bunch!)... Get it check by someone that knows what they are doing (hint: there are percetage wise very few that do).

The guy on 6-speed with the yellow 911 was not very complimenting of the fit and finish of that lip. Said it have to be majorly reworked to look and fit right.

You may have a leak. You can use dyes to find the leak if you do. Have someone experienced check it out with the proper gauge equipment.

Do they make H&R's that are compatible with the shocks on an '03 C2 tiptronic with stock US 030 suspension? I'm pretty sure the springs would have to be different for the tiptronic and again for the 030 shocks...

When I took a quick look at a 04 GT3, it looked like the lip could be mounted to the standard C2 bumper by drilling some holes (probably would have to remove the bumper to do a nice job. The GT3 lip is about $200 at a discount parts dealer. I would like to see it mounted or get some measurements before I buy one. I think adding the lip and also painting the bottom edges of the bumper (near the front of the wheel wells body color would balance the front end out with side skirts...

The grabbing sounds like shift linkage issues...Maybe they just need to adjust it...

a couple of nuggets: 1) Elevate the catch tube and receptacle well above the caliper. Otherwise, the fluid in the down side of the catch tube will draw a vacuum on the line and you may see bubbles in the catch line from suction around the bleed screw when they really aren't any in the brake system. 2) Buy cheaper brake fluid and bleed before and after every event. The life of brake fluid in a caliper on a track is not an easy one... You will get moisture in brake fluid over time no matter what, so you are better off having fresh fluid before every track event. A day on the track cooks that fluid, so get it out of there to be nice to your caliper and it's seals. You should be taking the wheels off anyway to check the pads for wear after a day on the track, and this is the hardest part of bleeding brakes (wheel removal). Also a good time to wash the wheels in the inside and give them some wax, so you don't end up with stained wheels from the heavy brake dust of a track day.

Sound like a left-to-right adjustment is needed on the latch. When I installed mine, I had to spend a lot of time moving the latch around so it wouldn't bind on the side of the latch receiver on the car... Try lowering the lid as low as possible while still being able to eyeball if it looks like the latch is too much to the left or right and make adjustments.

Try calling them. They were all excited about providing a warranty for a 2001 with 35K miles that was just out of factory warranty that I almost bought (just before I got the long fax of problems from the PPI)...Went with the under warranty 2003 instead...

That is a lot of mileage to start an extended warranty especially when the car is out of factory warranty... But you might try warrantydirect.com. They pay with credit card, and they pay whatever the rates are at the shop. I had them pay rediculous rates at the Jaguar dealer when I had an XJ8L. And let me tell you, I came out ahead on that deal... I sold the car, not because it was costing me anything to fix in cash, but I was without the car a lot and having to pick it up and drop it off for repair. But the best thing to do is to talk to your service writers about the particular one that you are thinking of and make sure they contact them and confirm that they will pay the rates and in a method that the shop will accept before you buy the warranty. Also, try to get a zero deductible. If you don't it leads to funny business to make you make more trips there to fix problems so you have to pay more deductibles.

This type of bypass is an incredibly common mod for the C5 Corvettes because their mufflers have a similar design where the inlet and outlet are on the same side. A company sells the pre-cut crossover pipes for $75 and people take it to muffler shops to have it installed. I would say definitely for the 3.4L you could measure the pipe of the old style PSE and have a muffler shop custom fit the same design for little money. Considering how you could pick up OEM take off's for real cheap, you can feel confident that if the experiment doesn't work out you can always go back to stock. If it does work, you'll save something like $1300 over buying a PSE and paying shipping, so it has a good risk/reward ratio. Could be a good vendor opportunity.

Dealer stocks them.... But I just used Flitz metal cleaner to make mine look like new...

I would never have thought a late model A/C compressor weighed 50lbs. You'll have to re-route the belt drive which might be a pain. In the end the no cost delete might seem like a pretty good deal.

Yes, it's a Hunter machine... I would have a Porsche specialist do the repairs, but an alignment guy should recognize any looseness..

Discount tire does Road Force balancing. Definitely pay a little extra for this service. If you have a bad alignment, it will be a little vague around center going down the road, especially if you have toe out in the front. If that's not it, you probably have some wear in the steering rack causing the looseness. A good alignment guy should be able to diagnose it...

You could buy the tires and wheels and resele the tires on ebay and buy a new set of tires.... The offsets look good without any spacers.