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jefla

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Everything posted by jefla

  1. jefla
    My 2000 does exactly the same thing, although I've thought the thud/rattle was in the top and not the door. A solution would be great.
  2. jefla
    TP reports that all US cars made post 1/97 have the temp sensor even if no OBC, as is the case w/ my 2000. Does that mean my car is set up for outside temp display, and that the system needs only to be activated? If so (speaking of guilt re being lazy and not searcjing for possible answers) how do I activate it? I'd love to have that info displayed. Best
  3. jefla
    My grills have also turned gray, and I'm getting the nose and hood painted soon. Given replacement grills are only $19 each is it worth simply painting them (black) or will the paint just chip off? Also, any particular maintenace I should do while the nose is removed?
  4. jefla
    I'm going to have the front of my 2000 metalic arena red car painted this winter (bumper and hood), and want to paint or replace the faded plastic radiator grills. Can anyone recommend a good source for these? Also, the paint shop (which I've used before for oither cars, and like) says he does not use OEM paint, but mixes his own. Says he'll get the match right, down to the metalic, and that in any event true original paint wound not match because of fading. Sound right? Jef
  5. jefla
    An update on my illuminated cel. Car always ran fine while cel was on and cel never went to flash mode. After 10 or 20 "cycles" (start, drive, shut off) the light stopped coming on.
  6. jefla
    I'm about to do the brakes on my 2000 base w/ 40k miles, and very will likley do what Steve did a few years ago. Is there any new thinking and are there newparts package options etc., since this thread was last alive? I like the black calipers off 996s. Any reason not to just go with OEM 996 parts for the front and use aftermarket drilled rotors for my stock rear? Can someone help/direct to a parts list? Also, if I have to paint rotor hats what kind of paint should I use? (Steve, learning that some of your calipers were upside down must have really been a drag! Darn good thing Orint's out there.)
  7. jefla
    I second Hotbasco's comments re tracked cars: I believe track-inclined onwers likely take better care of their cars than many daily driver-inclined owners. Ignorance and poor maintenance is the bad thing you want to avoid. Also, I would not seek out a certified car, and indeed may avoid them b/c you'll pay a premium. Instead, find a GOOD mechanic that "works for you" (i.e., you're paying them), and have them thoroughly inspect the car before you buy it. Mass. ... absoultely get heated seats. And if you're in to music you'll need rear speakers. Jef
  8. jefla
    I'e a 2000 w/ 40K miles that starts, runs and does everything else as it should. No unusual temps, oil etc. The cel came on yesterday and I'm planning on a 4 hour drive tomorrow. I can't read codes and don't have time to pull them before tomorrow AM, when I leave. Shold I take it?
  9. jefla
    Following adds to my earlier posts re compatibility of Mercedes Benz' current lifetime antifreeze (part # Q 1 03 0002) and Porsche antifreeze. A local Porsche service manager and I talked: Apparently Porsche changed its formula w/in the last year (noted by PTEC). The new Porsche product IS compatible w/ the old bright green Porsche product, but is NOT known to be compatible w/ any other, including the new Audi/VW product (some engineering there), and will gel in a big way when mixed w/ uncompatible product. The old Porcsche product was said to be compatible w/ most other lifetime antifreeze, including the current MB product I put in my car, and even the stuff in my truck. So, going forward we all need to know exactly what's in our cars before adding antifreeze, particularly if one drives an 04 or older model that has been serviced by Porsche, and thus maybe now has the new formula or a mix of old and new. (Is anyone else wondering what the heck is really going on here?) I'm not sure when the new formula first appeared. BTW, the SM said nothing is compatible w/ late model VW antifreeze. Query, imagine the car overheats in the middle of no place. Unless you happen to have spare antifreeze on board, is it OK to only add water then limp to a Porsche dealer?
  10. jefla
    TP, Cows Fall From The Sky... film at 11:00! ;) I almost NEVER find myself in disagreement with you. But on this one, I do. There is a significant difference in the two Prestone Anit-Freezes you describe. The Yellow, is normal AF which contains Phosphates and is therefore Porsche Incompatible. The Prestone 5/150 is Phosphate-Free (Substituting Nitrates as the anti-corrosion agents) and therefore is Porsche Compatible. The chemical comparison you made is from those listed on the WARNING label, not a full Ingredient List. They share many common ingredients, but not all. The difference is quite significant. Hope this helps. Happy Motoring!... Jim'99 <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Jim's post prompted me to call the service manager at HBL, the Northern Virginia Porsche dealer that told me the MB life-time antifreeze was compatible w/ Porsche's product. I am now told by the service manager that the products ARE NOT compatible. HBL has agreed to "help me out" w/ flushing the system and replacing all the antifreeze w/ Porsche's product.
  11. jefla
    The 1 gal. bottle is labeled Mercedes Benz, w/ part number Q 1 03 0002. It was produced in the US for "MB US," in Montvale New Jersey. Contents: ethylene glycol (107-21-1), diethylene glycol (111-46-6), sodium tetraborate (1303-96-4), sodium benzoate (523-32-1), "corrosion inhibiters, defoamers and dyes." The product is to be cut 50/50 and has a very light orangish color; definitely not green. Before learning of the need for "special" a-freeze I added about 3/4 gal of cut "regular" a-freeze to my car's recently replaced coolant. Should I now replace all the a-freeze because of the volume of sub-par a-freeze in the mix (assuming the MB product discussed above is adequate)? TIA
  12. jefla
    On the advise of the parts desk at HBL Porsche in Washington, DC, I put Mercedes lifetime a-freeze in my car, mixed with newly-changed Porsche coolant. (Just got hit by the leak thing.) Is the Mercedes product (not pink) compatible with the Porsche product? TIA
  13. jefla
    I've a "00 2.7 L w/ 40k miles and a very good service history, including oil changes annually (<15k mi) using Mobil 1 0w40. The engine runs very well but mine is one that has horrible lifter clatter at start-up, after sitting for as little as overnight. (Sound makes me cringe, but I've read the posts so I don't worry.) Twice in the 15 months I've owned the car (2d owner) it has also given a rather large puff of blue smoke at startup (but not after winter storage). I worry about the smoke. Is there anything I can do to stop all this clatter and occasional smoke, e.g. switch to 10 or 20w40, or is there anything else I should watch for? TIA
  14. jefla
    I'm doing this from memory so maybe I'm wrong, but I think the bolts on my 2000 have no slip sleeves (or "washers"); they are one piece. Is that possible?
  15. jefla
    I've just learned that Snap-On sells the Hazet under its own product number, wh/ is ASTH2169: $26.71 (in Washington, DC).
  16. jefla
    I found very excellent instructions on removing the inner fender ("wheel well liners") in Scherb's post on the Boxster DIY How to ... subforum, entitled cleaning/clearing radiators. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3139
  17. jefla
    I've a 2000 5-spd w/ 35k miles. When cold, downshifts to 1st and ups to 2d are stiff. V/ Rarely it pops out of 2d after I touch the shifter. Never heard any grinding or growling, and when warm the the shifting seems v/smooth. Service records suggest original tranny fluid. I've read on this board that stiff trannys are rare. Thoughts? I'm going to have the fluid changed. Would one ever power flush these trannys? Is there any reason to flush/change the clutch fluid at the same time? TIA Jef
  18. jefla
    The windshield washer tank leaks on my 2000 Boxster (35k miles). When filled, fluid runs straight through. The pump motor makes good sounds but never pumps anything so I'm thinking the line from the tank to the pump came loose. I did find a post suggesting that Boxsters once had a problem with a wimpy clamp on this line, so I may be on to it. How do I get my hands on all this stuff? I'm thinking I need to remove the left inner fender. Is that right? If so, any tricks to doing that? TIA Note -- I'm a new to this board, and have just discovered that the subforum "... Top Issues and Solutions" means convertible tops, not "really important." Please accept my apologies for the poorly placed duplicate post in that subforum.
  19. jefla
    The windshield washer tank leaks on my 2000 Boxster. When filled, fluid runs straight through. The pump motor makes good sounds but never pumps anything so I'm thinking the line from the tank to the pump came loose. I did find a post suggesting that Boxsters once had a problem with a wimpy clamp on this line, so I may be on to it. How do I get my hands on all this stuff? I'm thinking I need to remove the left inner fender. Is that right? If so, any tricks to doing that? TIA "00 Boxster
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