mnc-i

Reference leather replacement seat covers Recommend Lseat..com they make leather replacement seat covers for 986 and 996 Porsches. I think the going rate for the seat covers is $300.00 whether it is for a sport seat, a regular perforated seat or a supple leather seat cover. And they do piping as well as two-tone colors. Just my two-cents I plan on replacing my Natural leather front seats with supple leather front seat covers. MNX=C-i

I’ve done my research looking for an inexpensive roof rack system. I just cannot bring myself to purchase a Porsche roof transport system for what they want. From my experience you have to do your own research. I checked with the official Thule, Rhino, Yakima, rackwarehouse, Amazon sites, and no one really took the time to help out. So I found a Rhino Rack Camper Shell Roof Rack (54 inch wide) at AutoAnything for $328.00. I wll have to, I guess, spring for the Porsche spungy paint protectors called foam gaskets. I plan on using the bars to carry a road bike. In the nine (9) years I’ve had my 99 Boxster I've had use my wife’s Toyota to transport my bikes. Background: I am converting over to my 2000 C4 as my new daily driver. My 312,000 mile 99 Boxster is Non-Mission Capable due to my inadvertent backing into a tree next to my driveway earlier this week. I already received my replacement right rear tail light and I ordered a 2003 rear bumper cover to replace the dented original bumper cover. And today my renewed registration came in the mail. All I need to do is pick up the bumper cover, replace the tail light and get the car painted. It came from the factory with Black Metallic paint, but the right side clear coat is all but gone. So I thinking I would get a super cheap MACCO black metallic repaint or go for a MACCO color change to Sapphire Blue Metallic or Miami Blue or Lava Orange (all true Porsche 911 colors from prior years). I am really fond of the Sapphire Blue Metallic. Etc.

Loren, Thanks for the quick response. If I understand you correctly: a) I should change my plugs every 60,000 km: b) I should use Beru plugs FRG-6-KQU (FGR-6-KQE are Bosch) c) Am I correct to assume Porsche updated the MK1 maintenance schedule since 1998? Thanks MNC-I

I am confused about spark plugs. Background: I own a 99 Boxster with over 312,000 miles and I’ve been religiously changing my spark plugs every 30,000 miles. I use Bosch 4503 Iridium plugs. I've had no problems and I am very satisfied. I picked up a 2000 Millennium Edition 911 two years ago. My dealer has records showing the car went in for a water leak and came out with a new engine under warranty at 55,000 miles. The dealer who has serviced it since day one tells me there are about 41,000 miles on the current plugs. The 911 has about 119,000 miles on it now (I put on 10,000 miles). I figure I might as well change them out at 120,000 miles. I purchased Bosch 7413 spark plugs. They are FGR-6-KQE. I’ve done research looking at three four different Porsche forums and I’ve seen people saying (I can wait until 60,000 miles to change plugs on early 986s and MK1 996s if I use a hotter range plug). I am probably all wrong here, but I am going to stick to the plugs I am using on my Boxster. My question is am I using the correct plugs for my 2000 911? I also have no problem changing out plugs on the 996 every 30,000 miles, but if I could go a full 60,000 miles between changes I will no complain. MNC-I

Ioch55, I believe your Boxster is suffering from worn out rubber washers. It can easily be rectified using #31 O-rings purchased at a Home Depot's plumbing department. You can also view a YouTube video that goes into detail on how to replace the old washers with the #31 O-rings. I recently fixed my horn using the #31 O-rings in less than 30 minutes while parked in my driveway. Here is a link from the 986 Forum addressing the issue: http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/66881-anyone-done-31-o-ring-horn-fix.html This is the link to the YouTube video: I hope this helps MNC-I

KeithBeniot, I have a 2000 Carerra 4 with the six-speed. To prevent going into Reverse when I want First gear, I've recognized that for me & my seating position Reverse is when the gear shifter knob looks to be in front of the left screen of the HVAC control. First gear is when the R on the gear shifter knob lines up with the frame between the left & right screen. Just my two-cents. MNC-I

royp4, I had a four-wheel alignment executed on my 2000 Millennium Edition (C4) last month at my dealer in Plano, TX. It took about two hours and the total cost was $268.02. That cost included (Labor - $209.95, Misc - $55.47, Sales Tax - $2.60). Part of the Miscellaneous cost was the cost to fill the fuel tank prior to the alignment. I also received a detailed sheet outlining the Camber, Caster, Toe, SAI, Included Angle for the front left and right to include Actual readings and Before readings. In addition readings for front Cross Camber, Cross Caster, Cross SAI and Total Toe Actual & Before. Finally the rear Camber & Toe for both sides Actual & Before as well as the Cross Camber, Total Toe and Thrust Angle. MNC-I

Emperorphobos, There are several ways to identify a Millennium Edition: 1) It is a one year only 2000 model 2) It has special paint that looks green, purple and black depending on the angle of the sun reflecting off the car 3) It has a dash plaque that tells you what number car it is (Porsche only made 911 of them) 4) It should have just about every option available for 2000 (the only option code on my hood sticker is the Millennium Edition code) 5) They all have a natural full leather interior 6) Instead of Carrera on the engine cover, there is a chrome 911 7) All of them are C4s MNC-I

Xena, My Millennium Edition is #602. I picked it up in March 2016. The guy I purchased it from had flaking on his two rear wheels. He was a spare no expense type guy and had the dealer in Plano replace the wheels with remanufactured wheels at a cost of $2000 for the wheels alone. He did get a $200 parts discount and a $10.00 labor discount. I have never been a fan of factory OEM chrome wheels on any car, but these have grown on me. I've made it a point to only use mild soap and water on my wheels. You can always get a set of after-market wheels or used Porsche wheels from one of the many Porsche dismantlers. My biggest fear is the wear on my driver's seat. Best of luck MNC-I

I have used them on my 99 Boxster. They have been great. I've also the HTR IIs. I have Michelin Pilot Super Sports on my 2000 911. Once these wear out I am going to HTR IIs or HTR IIIs. Just my two cents MNC-I

I've got a 99 Boxster that I purchase in Sep 09, for $8700 with 104,000 miles. I currently just over 267,000 miles. I do most of my own maintenance within reason (oil & filter changes, brakes{pads & rotors}, spark plugs & serpentine belt). I used either Mobil 1 10W40 High mileage/15W50 or Royal Purple 20W50 and I change it every 10,000 miles. I forget how many water pumps I've gone thru, but then again the 986/996 water pumps are no way as dependable as a water pump for a chevy small block 350. I've gone thru at least three (3) AOSs. During the last AOS change, my mechanic changed out my front motor mount (it was toast). I last month my idler pulley froze up while I was on I35 in Round Rock. It was expected with about 256,000 miles. I have the tranny fluid and filter changed in the Tiptronic about every 60,000 miles. I had both to have both timing chain tensioners & cam actuators. I've been quite happy with Sumitomo HTR Z IIs & IIIs. All of my oxygen sensors were replaced at 166,000 miles. I have a new fuel cap (somehow the original cap did not make it back on after a visit to my local dealer). I also have the new & improved coolant tank cap. I broke the connector (headlight to car) for my driver's side headlight. I went to my mechanic to fix the connector and discovered the wires in my driver's side headlight lost all of their insolation (due to heat and age), fortunately my independent mechanic repaired it for me. (If you live in Austin, I highly recommend LuxuryAuto Works) The only modification I've made is a $285 muffler with Boxster S tips. It weighs half as much as the OEM muffler and the rear trunk is no longer a good substitute for an oven. The sound is great! I've also had all four struts replaced two years ago. Right now my top is stuck in the down position (since it has been raining in Austin for the last week, I haven't driven it in six days). Monday I will take it to my mechanic (I cannot get the clamshell to come up). I purchase the vast majority of my parts from either Pelican or RockAuto and I get my tires from TireRack. I've been lucky. I've purchased 17 inch OEM Porsche wheels with brand new tires for $400. My best score was a set of black sport seats from Woody in Bastrop, TX for $250. It has been an expensive ride, but well worth it. MNC-I I've promised myself that once I reach 300,000 miles I will get a 996 series 911.

Check out RockAuto for O2 sensors. When I changed out all my O2 sensors, I paid RockAuto about $84.00 each for Bosch #13806 sensors. Currently RockAuto has those same senors for $75.79 each. Just my two cents.

Jokifun, You are absolutely correct. Pelican parts listed two brake light switches for the 1997-2004 Boxster a) 996-613-113-02-M100 (genuine Porsche) for $22.00 b) 996-613-113-02-M85 for $10.75 So I went with the cheaper part, which was the wrong answer. MNC-I

On my 1999 Boxster the brake lights do not work unless the ignition is on. I ordered a replacement brake switch when I had trouble shifting out of park (shift lever button would not go down when I pressed it). I new switch I ordered from Pelican Parts was about $10.75 U.S. It was slightly different is size and looks. With the new switch in my brake lights would not go off. I went back and ordered the OEM switch from Pelican Parts (approximately $22.00 U.S.). My brake lights work perfectly, but I still have issues shifting out of park. I depress the shift button on the lever as I turn the ignition key. My two cents. MNC-I

WVICARY, I purchased the $10.75 part instead of the $22.75 OEM part. I had no problem fitting the new brake switch, but it made the brake lights stay on indefinitely. The $10.75 part was just a wee bit longer than the original OEM part. I put the old switch back in and the brake lights are working. I just ordered the $22.75 OEM part (996-613-113-02-M100). More to follow. MNC-I

docanderson Darrin, I can only address the water pump. I agree with flushing the cooling system, but I would wait until the pump actually goes to replace it. I purchased my 99 with 104,000 miles. The water pump went out on it within approximately four thousand miles, and I had it replaced. I replaced it again at about 168,000 miles. There was nothing wrong with it at all, but a article in Excellence Magazine recommended changing 986 and 996 water pumps every 50-60k. Looking back on it, I would have waited for the water pump to go bad before replacing it. When the one I have now goes bad, I will also replace the thermostat with a 160 degree model. I do recommend that you take the front bumper cover off and clean out the radiators & air conditioner condensers. MNC-I

WVICARY, I checked the brake lights. The brake lights do not work unless the ignition is On. If the key is in the ignition and in the On position, the brake lights work. Is this unique to Porsche automobiles? I am about to purchase a brake switch from Pelican Parts ($22.00 for OEM part or $11.00 for an AfterMarket part). Accessing the brake light switch seems to be a bear. Wish me luck. Once I replace the switch, we will see if it solves the problem of not being able to shift out of Park into Drive or Reverse. Thanks MNC-I

WVICARY, I will check the brake lights. I've discovered a work around: I push down on the gear shift as I turn on the key in the ignition. As the car starts the gear shift is released and I can move it out of Park into Drive or Reverse. Oh by the way, is the brake light switch under the dash above the brake pedal? I guess it is time to take out the Bentley manual again. Thanks MNC-I

ALCON, My tiptronic Boxster (1999) will not shift out of Park into Drive or Reverse. I know about the safety feature (you must depress the brake pedal), but it only releases after about two minutes of pumping the brakes and pushing down on the shifter button. I think I can faintly hear a click each time I depress the brake pedal, but I am not sure. This has nothing to do with the car being on an incline (it isn't due to binding). I use the parking/emergency brake and it has being happening in my flat garage and on flat parking lots. I searched this forum and found several postings on the same problem (Shift Knob Won't Release 99 Boxster Tiptronic; Gear Shift Sticks in Park; 2001 Tip Boxster Won't Shift Out of Park; Can't Shift The Tiptronic Shifter When in Park). Unfortunately none of the postings provides a solution. I figure there is a solenoid that must be faulty. I am looking for help before I have to go to a dealer. Thanks MNC-I

Hi, My CDR 220's CD player went out, so I purchased a used CDR 220 for $85.00. Unfortunately it did not come with the code. The serial number for the new CDR 220 is 15075729 it is model #BE 4462. Can you help me with a possible radio code? Thanks v/r MNC-I

Bustingear, Thanks for the update on a high-mileage 996. My 99 Boxster has just turned 160,000 miles and I am looking to move up to a 996. Can you tell me what your 99 Carrera cost you? Thanks MNC-I

For what it is worth...... I had the exact same problem with my 1999 Boxster last week (Car got hot and would shut off. It would not start until given time to cool down). The fuel relay had signs of extreme heat damage (blacken and melted). After replacing both the fuel relay and fuel pump the car still refused to start. My mechanic replaced the camshaft position sensor and she started right up. MCI

ALCON, The issue of my Boxster cutting off whenever the engine got hot was caused by a faulty fuel pump. My mechanic is replacing the fuel pump, the fuel pump relay and the fuel filter. Thank you all for the feedback. MNC-I