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Pacific996

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  • Present cars
    1999 Carrera
  • Former cars
    1949 VW
    1964 MGB

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  1. Pacific996
  2. Pacific996
    Thicker air gets good results all the time.
  3. Pacific996
    Are you saying the car gives the signal that it has locked the car? Mine flashes the parking light when receiving the fob signal to lock. If so then your fob electronics are working and the alarm system of the car is translating the signal but your signal to the locks or your mechanical connection to the locking system is inop. That would explain the key not working partly. I'm not sure if the door key is just an electronic switch that operates the actual locking mechanism but it would explain a wiring or mechanical failure. I'd bet on wiring failure if the lights you speak of are the signal for the car being locked. Do the full trouble shoot of fuses and wiring if at all possible.
  4. Pacific996
    You really need to post a picture. Model years change stuff but most parts can be figured out. Unless you know what sections of houses are going into and or out. Your answer may be in what the hoses are called that lead to and out of the part.
  5. Pacific996
    Yah I'd suggest a qualified porsche guy flushing the system and see if he comes up with something irregular. I'm not sure if you have had the car stored for a long time but water can enbread into the fluid and that causes expansion brake fluids don't do when heated. The icy condition I'd imagine caused a lot of braking which heated things up possibly which possibly caused any moisture to expand. Had an old hot rod that would start applying the brakes when doing long hals on the road due to water in the lines. One of the main reasons I figure a porsche dealer doing the work is if somebody not familiar with ABS and porsche's arrangement of things trips the ABS into a warning light like many ABS cars out there will, then you'll be going to porsche or some other qualified porsche mechanic anyway. I feel if there is a bad part or system out there that they will be looking into checking everyones ABS for problems. Locked brakes isn't what a man wants flying the autobahn.
  6. Pacific996
    One trick I have used is cold a/c air on the windscreen. I'm not sure if it is all your windows but the a/c normally clears the windscreen good unless it has gone to a too thick of a moisture already. What might be happening is your car is exposed to winds so the windows are cooler than the surrounding air due to wind chill. Then pumping the always moist air onto the cooler surface causes condensation. It will even happen on the exterior windows at times. You could also have a heater core leak. I'd thing you'ld slowly see a lowering of radiator level if so. My personal favorite is the a/c till the heat level is up then I can blast some heat on the windscreen. Any slightly warmer air on the windscreen only causes condensation since it isn't hot enough to start to keep the surface dry. But colder air wont cause condensation since it is colder and the air flow evaporates and moisture forming the screen. It's a flip back and forth in temperatures some times but you'll always win the battle in the end :) Yes it gets cold in Hawaii. It was freezing in the 50's and 60's lsst winter :D
  7. Pacific996
    I believe the reason for differences in grades of oil is primarily for people who start the car and take off. I believe in letting an engine warm up before applying revs to it. I've always done that with my gsxr1000 and plan to do it with my carrera. The gsxr does twice the revs and hp to weight ratio would be like a 1,500hp engine in the porshe. When the oil is cold it is thicker than hot so it will give higher preasures on the engine gaskets. Hawaii's Porsche dealership dictates 15w50 synthetic and I would be inclined to use the same in cold but always make sure the engine is warmed up before going into higher revs. The manual states with a warmed up engine at 5k rpms you should be reading approx 3.5 on the preasure gauge. I just had the dealer sheck out the car today and change the oil to the 15w50 synthetic and the once looking low preasures are looking great now. I had the same problem you refer to before I got what porsch's guys recommend. Go for the max protection. Funny thing is with synthetics if you have been running a blend or non synthetic oils you'll even end up with a higher rpm due to the extra smooth lubing the oil does. Seen it with bikes before when guys change over to synthetic and now after getting the previous owners choice out of the sump the car got a higher idle too.
  8. Pacific996
    If you are trying a lube on rubber make sure it is a silicone LUBE. Some of the spray silicones seem to be absorbed and not act as a lube. This some times leaves you with a cleaned up piece of rubber that definately drags on anything it rubs. I've found a cleaner conditioner I use on my bike called Plexus works pretty good for plastics and rubber. I'm pretty sure it has some silicone in it but I used it to lube up my gas tank fill door and it locks just fine now. That is plastic on plastic though. Anyway one of the spray silicones just made things worse one time since it cleaned the doors rubber window skirt and dragged on the window even worse after applying it. One of the prior to my purchasing my 911 was the replacement of the window mech which makes me feel better reading this thread.
  9. Pacific996
    This picture is the 997 turbo rims with 235/35/19 front and 275/30/19 rear that I blieve is the stock set up for the 997 turbo. At least I think I saw it listed that way some place. I am certain of the 30 profile in the rear with the 35 in the front. I have worried about rubbing the wheel well skirt since a drag car I had before would pull that trick when on the gas. Watch for the wheel wells rim slicing the tire by checking tire and the wheel wells rim for deformation since that is your concern. I think my suspension is stiff enough but always checking is the best thing to do. None of us want a problem at speed.
  10. Pacific996
    Your best bet would be going with some race headers. Or using an exhaust system selling as a noise maker. You wont regrett the race headers for performance. What some of my sport bike guys do is shorten the mufflers can which increases noise. Changing the back preasure changes the tuning aspect of the engine so with your car I don't advise it. I've found california people are stuck with very few options for exhaust and fueling a car with performance products. Just try a race exhaust system and you should be happy.
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