ARModen

The gateway 500 works well, and installed fast in the 04 ctt. My only complaints are that it doesn't show track information on the head unit or instrument cluster, and it won't go back to the previous track. I think they might broth be fixed with a firmware update.

Here's a puzzle for someone more familiar with the transmission control system. The ctt has 95K miles on it. It was shifting a little rough when cold, otherwise no problems. I drove several hours on the highway, and when I came down the off ramp near the house it didn't downshift. Luckily I got all green lights to the house but it never downshifted out of 6th. I tried putting it in manual to force it to change, but nothing. It went to M but wouldn't come out of 6th. Once stopped in the driveway it shifted to 3rd. I replaced the filter and flushed the fluid pretty well. (seriously.. check the filter o-ring twice before you put it back together.) Now it shifts even smoother than before, which is good, however I had the same problem with it sticking. After the oil change I drove 2 hours down the highway. When I stopped at a toll, it refused to downshift out of 6th in manual or automatic. I came to a complete stop to pay the toll, and then it shifted to 3rd and refused to up or downshift in auto and manual. Luckily, there was a rest area immediately after the toll booth. I stopped, turned the car completely off and immediately back on. The transmission returned to 2nd and I drove another half hour in 6th gear, and around town for the last 2-3 days with no problems. I don't get any weird smells, sounds, or shifts, and no fault codes leading up to the problem. I have a couple of theories, but since it is so specific about what gears it will use (only 3rd and 6th) I'm thinking that there might be a very specific solution.

That being said, other than a bad tank of gas, my first boxster was very economical as my daily driver. Good gas mileage, and the thing ran like a champ well over 100k miles. I probably changed the oil twice a year and back tires once a year. That's about $500-600. I spent a lot more, but that was not routine maintenance.

A very pertinent consideration is how much of the work can you do yourself? Once you're past the initial cost of buying the car, most people are caught off guard by the maintenance costs. An oil change is $90 at home and takes 15 minutes. It's $45 more than the jeep because she takes almost two big jugs of oil. Dealership quoted me (the fools) $250, and I'd guess it'd take 2 hours. That pretty much applied to everything on the car. The parts are more expensive than your average vehicle, and labor costs can get out of hand. If you're handy and you have the time you can fix just about anything with a little help from the forums and YouTube. It would be good, when you buy one, that you have alternate transportation available so you don't get stranded. My first boxster's water pump blew the second week I had it. Today, I could fix that in an afternoon. At the time I had to pay the dealership $1200 to fix it.

Porsche published 03 and 06 diagrams are going to be the same. Module revs seem to be different and not entirely compatible from year to year.

They put the original kessy module back in, and hooked the ELV that I removed from the original steering column and it started back up. Apparently the old column must have been mechanically bound. I removed the ELV from the new column and installed the old ELV onto the new column using the dremel/vice grips approach above and the problem is fixed. Why the new kessy module and new ELV wouldn't work is beyond me. The dealership wouldn't actually let me operate the PIWIS to see for myself hahahah

First question is, are the codes you had before you replaced the sensors different than the codes you have now. It sounds like you've replaced the sensors twice and still have the original problem. If you have a short circuit in the cable between the ecu and the plug for the O2 sensors, then replacing sensors won't do any good. The cables go around the exhaust and up to the DME, so the most likely thing is that they have come in contact with something hot that has melted the insulation off and shorted them together. The other possibility is that they are pinched inbetween suspension or engine mount parts. I'd get it up on a lift and get a flash light and take a look at the harnesses going back up into the car above where the sensors plug into them. I'd guess they go straight up and then over to the driver's side and into a bundle going back to the DME in the trunk.

I had this on my boxster the other day. It was a very high pitch squeak. Turns out It was a rock stuck between the hub and the rotor, took me about 5 minutes to fix. Try to narrow down which hub it's from, then jack the car up, remove that wheel and give the rotor a wiggle by hand.

I don't believe either of those would be an input to the module that controls the differential. I think the PSM light will probably clear when you can drive it normally. I'd get the faults read/reset see what the ECU is telling you.

If not they can be removed by a local garage or a tool you can get at the local parts store. Replacement sets aren't very expensive. It'd be interesting to hear how it goes at the dealer.

Don't believe so. They're motor controlled. Have you tried backing up a few feet and trying to disengage it again? Gears could be bound up.

As suspected, replacing the steering column did not clear the steering fault. When the dealership programmed the column to the kessy the steering column fault cleared but now it has an immobilizer lock active. Dealership replaced the kessy module. They can't program it now. Car is still a paperweight.

I'll check it on mine. Can you post a screenshot of where you're seeing the input values? The only live input value screen I'm seeing is for the DME

The new steering column arrived finally. The steering shaft itself comes completely out of the column when the retaining bracket on the top of the column is removed. The used replacement column came without one for some reason, but my old one went right into it and right into the lower shaft coupling in the firewall. Removal of cats is definitely not required. That brake switch bracket can also be left in and is good for supporting the column while it's being coupled up. Just a matter of putting trim back on and reconnecting the electric and it should be ready for a tow to the dealership to have the new lock synced with the alarm system.

$192 is the cheapest I see. Doesn't seem to be anything aftermarket specifically for that part. I seriously doubt there's going to be any other source for a rear AC line for a cayenne since I don't think even the toureg's have that option. Someone could custom bend the tubing, but they would still need the fittings on the ends, so you're probably best off finding the cheapest oem supplier you can.

Make sure you have everything closed. The honk means it's not entirely locked. I usually get it for something silly like the center console isn't fully closed. Which switch did you replace in your door? I'm not having alarm issues but sometimes it doesn't retract when I close the passenger door and it gets hung up on the roof.

My old boxster used to occasionally forget remotes. I'm not sure how that happens, but sometimes when I would disconnect the battery for some other job, one or the other wouldn't work afterwards. One thing to make sure of is that you save the white paper tag that comes with any new fobs you buy. They have a code, and if you don't save that code, the dealer won't be able to program your immobilizer to recognize the remote.... then you have to buy a new fob, even though the one you have looks perfectly fine. The key has 3 parts: blade, RF transponder, and keyless entry remote. If you buy a new fob with the electronics inside, you can use it with the car as long as you transfer the old blade and rf transponder little peanut thing to the new fob. Then the dealer will have to program the remote portion.

Have you checked for a cat? I had a raccoon climb in through the roof of my 944 once.

The automatic headlights won't throw a code. The sensor says the headlights need to be on and they're on, everything is good as far as the car can tell. You'd get a code if the headlight did not come on as it was supposed to.

There's two per side in series. Most likely you'll see cat efficiency codes pop up well before you have any significant change in fuel efficiency.

This thread has some options: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/48322-cardan-shaft-eps-vs-vertex-vs-colorado-drive-shaft/ the colorado one is $350 now. I would check the driveshaft because it could also be a motor mount or such.

Is the CDR23 fiber optic (MOST)? There are two orange cables coming out of the back of the nav unit that are the start and end of the fiber loop. Also the PCM 2.0 doesn't have video, so it doesn't have a separate dvd drive. Might be simpler install if that's available.

Is it giving error codes, or just flickering? If it's just flickering, replacing the bulb fixed mine.

This is real easy to check. Put the car in park and then put the suspension in max height mode. Hold the suspension toggle all the way up for 10 seconds, or so, till the console says that it's locked. Then you can look under the car right at the drivers door. Above the exhaust pipes will be the drive shaft. If you can move it side to side with your hand, then that's probably the problem. It comes out of the transfer case and goes through the support bracket, then back to the rear differential. Inside that support bracket is a rubber snubber that wears out. When that happens, the bearing bangs around against the support bracket. Here's an article on replacing it: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/29-SUSPEN-Driveshaft_Bearing_Support_and_Flex_Disc_Replacement.htm Shift the ride height then drive a few feet and it will unlock the suspension again.

I have those smoked LED taillights on my CTT too. They're a solid upgrade on looks.