fedmax

Hi there Do I have to 'center' the servo pump wheel? It looks like it wobbles a bit since I loosened and fastened it again. However the DYI does not indicate anything like this and this is how I've done it: 2. Position servo pump wheel (2). - Put on the servo pump wheel together with the drive belt. - Slightly tighten the three fastening screws on the servo pump wheel. 3. Tension drive belt (3). - To tension the drive belt, turn the tensioning roller 7 in clockwise direction and simultaneously fit the drive belt on the deflection roller 8. - Then slowly relieve. To do this, turn the tensioning roller slowly counter−clockwise (anti-clockwise). 4. Tighten fastening screws on servo pump (4). - Tighten the fastening screws of the servo pump drive wheel. Tightening torque: 17 ftlb. (23 Nm) Thanks in advance.

I purchased a compressor on ebay recently and would like to exchange the clutch that makes noise (the price difference between the clutch and whole compressor with clutch was little...so I have a spare compressor handy if needed). Now the problem: I removed the screw, pressure plate and seeger ring clip. Now the pulley just won't come off. I did hammer with a rubber hammer but that didn't help either. I couldn't find any information from people that have issues with getting the pulley off. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

I did the exhaust change two weeks ago. The GT2 exhaust I added did not really make a difference. Both my and the mechanic thought it's a bit deeper in sound but just a nuance. Also the exhaust seems a bit lighter but we did not have an opportunity to weight it. Here is the story with pictures in my blog: http://porsche996turboblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/gt2-exhaust-change.html

This is probably it , we couldn't ave a look last weekend as the exhaust replacement took double the time because of a bad srew nut.

Ok, did some analyzing today, it doesn't change when I steer or press the clutch. Seems to come from the belt or one of the rolls where the belt is on. I'm changing exhaust tomorrow and will let the mechanic have a look.

Hi all I have a strange noise coming from the engine bay, might be temperature related (0 degrees celsius here) but want you input anyway. The v-belt got replaced in service recently and did a different screech but it could come from that as it is irregular. What do you think? here is the noise on video: http://www.swissportal.net/videos/IMG_0357.MOV

I had the same issue as described and at first I thought its the MAF, replaced it same issue again. It was one broken variocam mounting bracket as described in lorens post. My porsche dealer said that they replace the two brackets at the 120'000km spark plug service as they're known to break.

My clutch pedal did not feel well after a gearbox rebuild so I figured I'd bleed the clutch fluid and while at it (the car has 80'000 miles) just replace the whole fluid. Based on POSES instructions and the DIY tutorial I figured it's an easy job to do before dinner on an evening. As it wasn't and quite painful...I think its good to share my experiences including pictures. Basic conditions: I did this alone in my garage with two car jacks, it was my first clutch bleeding. What you need: - There is about 0.7l (7 quarts) of fluid in the system, I bought 1 Liter (10 quarts) of Pentosin CHF 11 S: http://www.pentosin....c=&pid=668&vid= - My Porsche 996 TT needed a 11mm wrench for the bleeder valve - a good light source, I had an LED light - a catch can/bottle with a hose that fits on the valve, I bought a special brake/clutch catch bottle with a fitting end - a pice of wood or similar to push back the clutch pedal - a feed hopper to not spill any Pentosin while filling up 1) Use the car jacks to bring the car up as hight as possible. Search for the the bleeder valve. It is well hidden: Follow the driver side rear wheel to the gear box and look high up. You see two hoses, above one is the valve. 2) Now comes the difficult part if you have large arms and hands: Reach to the valve and take off the valve cap. Attach the wrench with the closed round side to the valve so that the other end of the wrench touches the underside of the car. This makes it easy to open (pull down) and close it (push up) again. 3) Attach the hose of the catch tank to the bleeder valve 4) Open the cap of the green compensation reservoir under the black plastic cover right next to the battery in the trunk, make sure it is filled, it may not at any point drain in air instead of fluid, to not spill any Pentosin cover the area with paper and attach a feed hopper, I taped it to the strut brace so it doesn't move 5) Push the clutch pedal far down, secure it with the piece of wood against the driver seat with enough soft cushion to avoid scratches 6) Open the bleeder valve (a few cm are enough) you'll see the green fluid coming out 7) slowly pull and push the clutch pedal 5 iterations 8) fill up the compensation reservoir with Pentosin My mechanic support told me to change the whole fluid as he said you cannot be sure where the air is kept so I repeated steps 7 and 8 till I got 0.8l (8 quarts) of Pentosin in the catch can. 9) Leave the clutch pedal in regular position 10) close the valve by pushing the wrench up, make sure it is closed tight but do not add pressure 11) Remove the bleeding hose and wipe off any remaining Pentosin, put back the valce cap 12) fill up the Pentosin into the compensation reservoir so it is between min and max levels 13) after Pumping 4 times the pedal feel came back, if it does not return slowly pump forth and back My clutch feel is now back to normal, I hope this helps someone to speed up the process :). Cheers Ronny

Can anybody please point me to the 'hidden' part number I cannot find on my exhaust? Help greatly appreciated :) Thanks Ronny

Hi all Does anyone have the Eurocup 996 Turbo Carbon Rear Spoiler Topon his 996 Turbo? I'd love to see pictures of different angles und also retracted before ording it. Thanks Ronny

To improve the sound of my TT without sacrificing everyday use I picked up an X50 exhaust today. The problem is altough it is not mounted to my car I cannot find the part number okn it. You guys just crawl under it and see it so please...where is it engraved? Thanks Ronny

Yes, the gearbox has been taken apart. I wanted longer gear ratios, unfortunately nobody could confirm that the GT2 gear ratios fit so we sticked to original parts. Also Sportec sells a long 6 gear for a ridicoulous 4000 Swiss francs which doesn't make sense. The GT2 Synchro rings are optimized for racing and thus harder to change gears with so also for the rings we exchange with original parts as I use the car on the street only. The clutch was replaced beginning of this year with a strong Sachs clutch up to 800nm. The reason for the failure was the screw that got loose that holds the gears together.Its the one on the right hand side. This lead to a fialure of gears reverse, 5 and 6. Also 3 synchro rings are damaged:

Hi there Maybe a bit a stragne question therefore background info: I ordered a carbon fibre rear wing a few month ago at porscheshop.co.uk. It's a replacement part for the original Turbo rear wing. The supplied rear wing was about 1cm off so I couldn't mount it. Porscheshop now got the replacement in from the manufacturer and is asking me for the excact cm/inch meansurement between the two mounting points of the original porsche rear wing so that it really fits. Regular readers will know my car is currently in repair for a gearbox rebuild so off for another few weeks. So if any of you who have tuned the rear wing have the original part laying around in the cellar would you be so kind to measure the center of the two mounting points? Thanks Ronny

So gearbox has been taken apart. A screw has got loose inside the gearbox and destroyed 5th and 6th gear and most of the synchro rings are gone too. They are now discussing with Sportec on how to improve the gearbox as it needs a rebuild anyway. One wish from my side were longer gear ratios :)

km 120'000, monday's car, lots of failures in the last 15'000 km. The dealership I'm with does work with Sportec, will sure do that next week. Ronny PS. small word...just saw your signature, same regular car, same hobbie, I drove RCN this year in a Peugeot 207 RC and one VLN race the 6h. Next year I'll drive 5 VLN races with my two collegues :)

Hi Fedmax, Sorry to hear your box broke. I too have heard there is no difference except an LSD in the GT2! What was the nature of your failure. What broke etc... What sort of power mods are you running and do you know how much power you were putting through it. Frank The Gearbox goes to a specialized rebuild shop that also does engines and s on. It's not open yet so we do not know what's all broke. Fact is that it was not possible to downshift in any gear, upshifting worked. Clutch is fine. Small power mod to 460bhp (Sportec Power Mod 1)

Hi there Due to a gearbox failure I'll have a rebuild next week. I thought based on the POSES information it would be great to improve the gearbox when it's opened anyway. I was thinking about longer gear ratios and an improvement of the synchroniser rings. Porsche in Switzerland says there is no differnce. I checked the PET catalogue and I also see no difference in part numbers for the synchro rings. Does anybody know if there is wrong information in there?

Wow, nice milage :) Interesting...at what milage do you plan an engine work over? Regarding the PDK...would be intersted in it too...do you know how much will need to be changed i.e. is it plug and play gearbox or do you also need other parts and what about the different computer systems?

Getting back to this old thread: I looked into it with a borescope and saw that there are just clips holding the console so I could carefully pull it out without damaging any of the plastic clips. I couldn't mount it better however so its still not completely firm.

As stated previously I have an appointment to put the stock exhaust back on tomorrow so that will eliminate the drone. Other than that based on my experience (I added alubutyl to eliminate drone that doesn't work) there is no way.

Good question I don't know but maybe Mark does? However what I do know is that I can share some stats tomorrow about what changed. I'll do a run this evening with the tubi on and another one tomorrow and share the difference. Will be measured with the DriftBox which is fairly accurate.

I did add some Alubutyl insultation about 2 weeks ago...little effect about 10% better. The good effect is that I do not hear the relays vibrating anymore. Anyway I'll take the exhaust off this Thursday, will do a performance tes with the driftbox to see how much power I loose.

I don't need to get rid of it completely just damp it a little. Do noise barrier and damper material not help in this case? I was thinking on putting some in the area behind the rear seats and below the rear window.

Hi all I recently put a Tuning Exhaust from Tubistyle (Italy) on my 996 Turbo MJ 2002. The exhaust is ok from the outside, not too loud but I have a huge issue in the cabin: with low revs (1500-2500rpm) I get deep tone resonance inside the cabin to a level that is not fun to drive long distances. The exhaust is cool but I need to get rid of that resonance. Does anyone of you have experience with sound insulation for the cabin? What material would you use and where would you place it? E.g. is there enough room underneath the carpets behind the back seats? Any hints or links are helpful. Thanks Ronny