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Everything posted by Cefalu

  1. I have the halogen version. It seems the only difference between the Carrera and Boxster version is the pattern embossed on the main headlight reflector. The Carrera uses a cross hatch pattern and the Boxster uses strait flute pattern. Why that justifies a 50% increase in the cost of a new OEM headlight escapes me. From what I read Magnetti Marelli manufactures these lights for Hella who makes them for Porsche. You can buy the Magnetti Marelli manufactured product branded as AL (automotive Lighting) for $790 for left and right headlights. But you get the straight flute pattern.
  2. I'm looking to get some non integral amber headlights for my '99 halogen 996. I came across some new OEM 986 boxster halogen headlights made by magnetti marelli as an OEM for Hella and Bosch. I assumed the early 986/996 halogen headlights were the same, (they look identical) but the seller does not indicate they fit a 996. Has anyone done this swap?
  3. I guess I was surprised at the breakdown at 4K miles because redline is supposed to be a premium "real" synthetic oil. My wear metals have been unchanged over the last 20,000 miles so it's not a poor product. But I replaced it with Joe Gibbs since I found it convenient to buy in Amazon. We'll see. But Blackstone made it sound like my engine was harder on oil than a normal 996 engine, maybe I just misunderstood the way they phrased it. Are 996 motors in general tough on oil?
  4. Blackstone just analyzed my oil and noted my engine was shearing my oil down a little, with a viscosity of SUS 78 and the cSt of 15.01. This oil was Redline 5-40 and there was probably 4,000 miles on the oil. Overall the engine has 73,000 miles on it. How or why can an engine shear oil viscosity down?
  5. I don't recall the version, except that it uses the 14mm hex drive which is characteristic of the newest version. Call Suncoast Porsche for the latest part.
  6. Mission accomplished. The good news is replacing the upper tensioner did the trick. No more noisy morning starts. The bad news is the upper tensioner is a ***** to get at. I had to pull the AC compressor all the way out to get access to the tensioner. Then down near the tensioner there are some hoses you need to unbolt and relocate to get the 24mm(?) socket on the old tensioner. The new tensioner uses a 14mm hex head which is much easier, but I didn't have, so trip to NAPA. By far the hardest part is the AC compressor. Its front two bolts are easy, but the back bolt you can't see. I used a mirror to locate it, and it must have taken a half hour to find it. Next time, 5 mins. putting the compressor back in is tricky because you need make sure the back bolt does not slide down and hang up on the engine while you are sliding it back in. I rigged up a piece of wire to hold the bolt up that I could pull out once the compressor was in place. At the same time I replaced the water pump/coolant, replaced the OEM thermostat with a Raby thermostat and installed a new coolant reservoir tank, so I had the motor dropped a couple of inches which helps.
  7. I bought 3 new chain tensioners for my 1999 Cabriolet. The two that are accessible from beneath the car I replaced. I did not replace the upper one because it is under the AC compressor. I understand the AC compressor needs to be moved to access the tensioner and this is accomplished by removing the 3 compressor bolts. But Bentley says you need to remove the power steering pump reservoir too, which looks messy. I suspect you need to remove the reservoir if you are removing the compressor, which I am not. I just need to shift it over. Can anyone speak from been there done that?
  8. I know, old thread. But I have been troubleshooting this rattling for months, it's driving me crazy! Finally, I suspected it might be the centering pins located at the sides of the top. I put some cork gasket material around the centering pin and closed the top. Noise gone. Now I see there is a TSB that covers this problem. I ordered the new pins from sunset per the TSB.
  9. Pretty boring truth be told. Oil tests and filter autopsies come back clean.
  10. Well, we know what "The IMS solution is now"..... And that elusive pressurized oil source was an adapter at the oil filter.
  11. I need to spend a bit more time adjusting mine too. Close enough for now What a procedure! But I think it will help in the future to mark with a sharpie the glass holders' outline on the window before you unbolt the glass from the regulator
  12. I just installed a URO parts regulator I located on eBay last week; $110 and free shipping. The seller was BMA auto parts. The URO parts regulator looked identical to the Porsche part, and so far works the same as the original functioning Porsche regulator. It solved the typical problem where the window does not lower down when you try to close the door, and causes the window to hit the roofline. But I could force the window down if I pushed down on the top of the opened window, then closed the door. A couple of words of caution, 1). if you re connect the battery with the airbag disconnected you will trigger an airbag warning light. I have a durametric so I cleared it. 2). The regulator itself is a flimsy thing with fragile plastic parts. Be careful taking it out of the bag and box, and then again fitting it inside the door cavity. Once it's installed inside the door it's fine. Lastly, these regulators are also used in Boxsters. There is a lower limit stop that needs to be removed from the front track. If you don't remove it the window will not lower down all the way. Normally I enjoy working on my car, but this job sucked.
  13. Yes, the switch snaps into a rectangular hole in the plastic handle. But It's a REALLY tight fit. You are going to ruin the switch if you try to separate it from the handle. But the switch was probably bad if you are trying to remove it anyway. The part number looks like this: 4 0 A 7 And the word "Cherry" with four cherry's in a 1mm dia. circle. Tiny. Looking at Digi Keys website shows similar Cherry micro switches retailing for under $2 each. But there are over 500 types of Cherry micro switches and I will probably never find the correct match. So a $2 switch marked up the $55 at the dealer. Gotta love this game.
  14. Yeah that's it. I can't believe how small the part is, but how expensive it is. The switch is made by a company called Cherry and the only numbers are 40 A7, or 4A 07. I will check around.
  15. Yes, that's the correct part number. I finally did remove it once I had given up all hope and decided to break it away from the door handle. And it popped out. Now, for the life of me I could never see how a human could ever assemble such a tiny switch. I found one of the springs that shot out. It's 0.5mm x 3mm. Well, i suppose a watchmaker could do it. And the switch is so fragile that the force required to remove the switch from the door handle will definitely open the switch up, and you'll never be able to assemble it again. Sucks, but $55 from the local dealer and I'll get it Tuesday.
  16. Yes, I have the book and I wish it was outside handle switch because it is covered in the book at page 57-9. But it's the inside switch that senses when the passenger opens the door from the inside of the car.
  17. I just replaced my passenger side window regulator. But during the process the inside door handle microswitch decided to blow its guts out and the tiny parts that blew out are lost. I cannot figure out how to extract the switch. How do I get the switch out? 1999 996 cabriolet 6 speed. Thanks!
  18. My 1999/2005 Bentley Manual arrived from Amazon today. All I can say is Wow. A quick thumbing through seems to indicate that this is a heck of a manual. Certainly the nicest workshop manual I have seen. I don't have any project's planned right now, but this manual looks like it will make it clear and straightforward when I do.
  19. I had the tranny bolted to the engine for both the removal and install of the slave. The trick for me was removal of the tranny mount first that allowed the nose of the trans to rotate down. That leaves just enough room to have reasonable access to the slave bolts. I had heard how horrible the slave job was, so I was trying to make sure I did not find myself struggling with it.
  20. The slave cylinder took me, maybe 15 minutes tops. The trick is to install it while the trans is still tipped down. It's very easy to get to the bolts then. Once the trans is tilted back up its very difficult access as you found. Same trick holds true for removal. Tip down first.
  21. I have a '99 with 63K miles. It has been well maintained. I locked the accessory pulley with a dowell that came with my IMS replacement kit. I did not lock the cams. I don't know if the pulley needs to be locked or not but I did it anyway. The only real issue I observed is the IMS chain tensioner that I removed from my motor was 1/4" shorter than the new replacement tensioner. I don't know if my old one was failed and stuck or if the new ones are a little longer. But the car is quieter for sure.
  22. OK, changed the oil, and filter and the 1-3 and IMS tensioner yesterday. I did not change 4-6 since it is a hassle to get to. At initial start up there was no noise! That's encouraging since those conditions replicate a cold start after the car has been sitting for a couple of weeks, almost.....Almost because I had driven the car one week ago. Usually it has to sit for a couple of weeks to hear the noise. And if the 4-6 tensioner is the bad one then it may have still had enough residual pressure left in it to suppress any noise. My old tensioners looked perfect, no scoring. However...the new IMS tensioner is about 1/4" longer than the old one I removed from the engine. I don't know if the new tensioner is designed to be longer, or the old tensioner was stuck in a partially closed position. I also noticed the internal spring in the old 1-3 tensioner seemed slightly stronger than the new one. It might have been residual internal oil giving some resistance though. My advice? Try changing the IMS tensioner as a first step when you do an oil change. The filter and tensioner are right next to each other. It might save you the cost of the 1-3. But the 1-3 tensioner is located on the bottom of the motor so you will need to do it during an oil change since oil will come gushing out. I bought the parts from Pelican out of convenience as it was online. But as others have noted some Porsche dealers are cheaper since Pelican has to buy the parts from the dealer too. All in all it adds about 15 mins to an oil change. ***EDIT*** next day...I have driven the car for a day now and the motor is noticeably quieter. It wasn't bad before but the new chain tensioners have defeinitely made a difference. The IMS tensioner that was a little short must have been the culprit
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