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DBJoe996

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Everything posted by DBJoe996

  1. I hate to sound ridiculous...the cable is located on the starter. There is an updated starter cable harness available, and a good idea "while you are in there" is to just replace the starter with a new one, replace the cable harness, and disconnect/clean the engine ground cable connectors very well with a wire brush. Also do your battery connectors, and if it has been three years or more on your battery, replace it as well.
  2. Have Durametric. Suits my needs as a full DIY person. Well worth the investment.
  3. This has happened to many people. The first thing to try is to have someone pull the release lever while you pull UP on the hood. The string mentioned is to make it easier to pull UP. The hood latch mechanism has a spring that is supposed to push the hood up when released. It has a tendency (on older cars) to either break or come off it's landings in the hood latch mechanism. That happened to me. I got the hood opened, removed the hood latch mechanism, took it apart and saw the spring had come off the landings. A simple fix and it has worked perfectly now for a long time. I also re-routed the manual release cable from behind the right side light assembly to behind the tow hook plug on the front bumper. Saves hours and hours manually getting the hood open.
  4. AOS. It has coolant lines going to and from it and plastic fittings. If you get under the car and look up from there you will see it and the coolant lines. Needs to be replaced.
  5. Well, I see that your question has been viewed 63 times and no one has responded. For one, I have never heard of the outside mirrors having this function. My 99 996 does not do this, but your car may be newer and have this function. It would help to have your year, model and other information. Have you checked the owners manual? Perhaps a fuse? Does the mirror function at all, move up and down, in and out?
  6. Flashing light=low coolant level. Open engine lid, look on the left side. There is a plastic tank with a cap. That is the coolant tank. With engine cold, remove the cap and fill to the maximum line level with 50/50 mix of Porsche Antifreeze and distilled water. Engine oil level check - there is a dipstick in the engine bay just to the left of the air filter box. It is yellow and has a picture of an oil can on it. Pull, wipe, re-insert, pull and check the oil level. There are two little holes in the dip stick that indicate the minimum and maximum levels. Your oil level should be between those marks. I always keep mine topped off at the maximum level. It is about a 1 quart difference between min/max. If low add a little bit, check again, repeat. Always use a Porsche approved oil. Find a copy of your owners manual and read it. Most of this is covered and it is simple car maintenance.
  7. I have experienced this type of problem with other vehicles and tires. Tires are manufactured using various methods and sometimes quality control is lacking. Also, they age and wear so they can develop some weird problems. Think about the heat and stress a tire endures and sometimes it is a wonder they survive the road for very long. The tread design also makes a huge difference as it wears and ages. Sounds like you are headed in the right direction with replacements. I have had the Michelin PS2 Super Sports AS on mine for quite awhile, and like Uwon they are great. My experience is some tires work really well on some cars, and are horrible on others. Here is the Porsche Approved Tire List http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/porscheservice/documentsanddownloads/
  8. I have the Michelin Pilot Sport Plus AS on both of my cars. They are one of the smoothest, quietest tires I have ever had. I have 20,000 miles on the front/rear tires, no perceptible wear whatsoever on either, I always feel confident because of the control in wet or dry conditions. I inspect the tires frequently and always keep the rears at 41 psi. When I purchased these tires, I had a complete alignment done with the new tires on the car. I know the tires are prone to wear on the rear inside edge the most, but even with close inspection I see none of that wear even after 20,000 miles. I would highly suggest getting your alignment checked if you are only getting 10,000 miles on a rear tire set.
  9. Broken fitting on the AOS? Coolant runs through the AOS. It is way back up on the engine, drivers side. Is the coolant on the left side (drivers side)? Helps us if you tell us where the coolant is leaking...left side of engine, front, rear, right side of engine, etc.
  10. Very good write up on how to accomplish this fix. As with all work on or around the engine: Step One - disconnect the battery!
  11. Just a reply from an owner and daily driver - invest in the Durametric. I have it and use it often to just check on the state of things. There really is nothing better for the owner/garage mechanic/DIY. It is worth the price for peace of mind.
  12. From Auto Atlanta - http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/906-01.php Seems only the entire instrument cluster is available. Might want to Google Porsche Instrument Cluster repair and see what turns up, or look into locating a used one. Check this out - http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/678150-instrument-cluster-lcd-repair.html
  13. Have you considered a bad/old/faulty starter motor solenoid switch? When my car did this, started cold just fine, then after warm would take several hits before starting again, I replaced the starter/solenoid with a new unit and it never did that again. I did check out everything else from the key switch, battery, CPS, cables and grounds. If you have eliminated those possibilities, I would look into the starter/solenoid.
  14. LOL...welcome to the world of older model 996's (my 99 C2 with 122,000)! That stuff is the lining and vent flapper seals in the HVAC system. Mine has been blowing that stuff out for some time. It is worse when running the defroster for the first time in months. I figure it will eventually all come out and stop. I'm not interested in pulling apart the dash and entire HVAC system to correct the problem. My solution - get out the shop vac, run the car and turn on the HVAC system fan on high and start sucking all the stuff that blows out...repeat and live with it.
  15. First rule of mechanics - also go back to the last thing you did. With the jump and the starter motor not spinning even with a direct jump says to me something is wrong with the starter/solenoid. Unfortunately you should pull the starter again and have it checked, perhaps having the solenoid replaced or going back to where you purchased it for an exchange. I do hope that you checked and cleaned the negative ground wire from the engine to frame, up under the right rear tire. Easy enough to make sure that is free of corrosion and has a good connection. Then, if a jump doesn't work, IMO the starter/solenoid is bad.
  16. I don't understand why you don't try to jump start it with the jump start connections in the engine compartment. The loud click you hear is the starter solenoid engaging the starter motor, but it doesn't have enough amps (juice) to turn over. So far I think everyone has given good advice on the ground connections and so on. If you can jump it and it turns over and starts, then you have a weak battery, bad connections either positive or negative somewhere, or some reason the starter isn't getting full amperage to turn over. I would see if you can jump start it, and if you can, and you have check/cleaned the other positive/negative connections, then replace the battery and have the alternator/voltage regulator checked for proper output. If it doesn't start, i.e., the starter doesn't engage, you may have gotten a bad starter motor with a bad solenoid.
  17. I would just plan on changing your starter. First make sure all your connections are clean and with no corrosion, including the ground strap (from engine to frame/battery to frame and don't forget the 12V + jumping post in the engine compartment). If problem persists, the starter solenoid is going bad. Had same problem, did all the obvious, finally gave in and replaced the starter...no more problems. You can get a new Bosch starter for $265. Replacement/Installation is a half-day job. No sense in just replacing the solenoid once you have it out...might as well just install a new starter at that point.
  18. Many threads on here about the key fobs..do a search. You can buy a new key fob from Suncoast Parts for ~$130, transfer the transponder pill and key blade and you may not have to have it reprogrammed. It is mostly the circuit board that goes in the key fob.
  19. The water cooling hose that attaches to that nipple on the tank curves and heads back to I think the AOS. P/N G99610661056 It goes back along the left side intake manifold...can't see further back in the engine compartment to see where it terminates.
  20. britdave - the starter. Mine did the same thing...got worse and worse. Engine cold, good start...engine hot and it would take many attempts to start. Starter would just not work, no clicking, no spinning...nothing. After doing everything else, i.e., battery, wiring, corrosion cleaning, replaced the starter. No problems after 1.5 years after replacing. Starts first time every time.
  21. Motor runs, spoiler up, motor stops. If it continues to run you have a problem, but not sure what....maybe the switch is sticking.
  22. Secondary Air Injection system changeover valve, and the little hoses insert into the intake resonance tubes. That's my guess. It has a part number R99660512301. Does your part have a P/N? Might help. Good source for looking up parts: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/911.php
  23. I am very impressed with your analysis White987S! That's very good. To the OP....what's done is done and you can't sweat it. But you need to watch your shift points if you want to get more mileage out of your engine. :renntech:
  24. Cable? The pedals are on an axle with plastic bushings for bearings. When you push on the clutch pedal it pushes the pushrod through the firewall. Try some silicone spray lubricate on everything, including the pedal bushings.
  25. I had the same issue, cold crank start up worked fine, when the engine got warmed up sometimes it would take many many attempts to get restarted. Checked and cleaned all the connections, grounds, everything. In the end, replaced the starter and that fixed it. Same car as yours so you might think about replacing the starter. I am a DIY...not that difficult if you have the patience. Got the Bosch starter PN R99660410300 from AutoAtlanta Porsche for $270.
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