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wyovino

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Everything posted by wyovino

  1. Very cool! I have great respect for people who not only can do this kind of thing, but are willing to share the results of their effort. Well done sir!
  2. I've never seen any posts about jacking from that point. I wouldn't do it. Either get lift bars like ttdocs said or take an extra two or three minutes to jack up each side from the back.
  3. Don't lift at the front. Lift at the rear jacking point and the front will come up too. That's how it works with my C2 and I have not heard anything different about the c4.
  4. There is a high probability that the coolant leak made it down to the coils. I had a CEL for Cylinder 1 misfire after replacing my coolant tank. My coils were actually fine but I replaced them anyway because the effort required to remove and check them makes the cost of replacing them trivial. In my case, coolant (and/or fuel) from the tank replacement procedure eventually seeped past the rubber seal and caused the misfire. The coil shaft was just a little wet. I tested all of the old coils with an ohm meter and they were fine. There were no cracks. There was a significant amount of coolant left in the hoses after I drained the tank and it all came out. I also had to disconnect the fuel lines to remove and replace the tank. There was a lot of fuel spilled in the process as well. After replacing the coils it was fine. I replaced the plugs too even though they weren't due yet.
  5. Not something I would ever attempt but it was interesting to watch. I'll leave it to the experts.
  6. I'll answer my own question based on a reply I received from FD Motorsports (the Fister exhaust mod people). MK-I Tiptronic mufflers will work on all MK-I and MK-II cars. MK-I Manual Transmission mufflers will NOT work on MK-II cars. MK-II mufflers will work on all MK-I and MK-II cars, regardless of transmission type. Also, my car is repairable and is currently in the shop. Yay!
  7. MY2000 C2 Tiptronic I have read that MK-II mufflers will fit an MK-I car but not vise versa, which doesn't make sense to me. Outwardly, the only differences seem to be the accordion folds (which MK-i Tiptronic mufflers have) and a slightly different cap. What would make MK-I mufflers not be suitable for MK-II cars? The reason I"m asking is that unfortunately my car was just totaled and I'm trying to decide whether to keep my original MK-I mufflers (with accordion folds and 37k Miles) or keep the Fister-modified MK-II mufflers with 70K miles. If my next car isn't a 996 I'd like to keep the ones that are easier to sell.
  8. I was able to fix mine just by replacing the black plastic ring that centers the locking rod. The rod was moving but was retreating into the hole and not securing the door . It turned out that a plastic bushing was missing. See if the rod moves when you lock and unlock the car. If it does, then that's probably all you need and it's a very quick and easy fix. If not, then it's probably the actuator. This is what I bought to fix the problem. I hope your issue is as simple as that. See "Guide Bushing for fuel door release rod" https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=fuel+door
  9. The cause of the intermix can be several things but the MY2000 is known to be susceptible to cracked heads. If everything else is good and the coolant hoses are flushed, you can probably get the car back on the road for about $3k. The heads can be repaired.
  10. My guess is the coolant tank level sensor. I recently changed my coolant tank and got a blinking temp light when I was done. It turned out that I broke the level sensor in the process. The damage wasn't obvious but a new level sensor fixed the problem. An inexpensive Wifi or Bluetooth ODBII reader will be able to tell you the engine compartment and coolant temps in real-time.
  11. Update: I changed the plugs and coils on bank 1 (ran out of time and will do bank 2 when I get a chance) The plugs and coils from bank 1 looked just about perfect. There were no cracks in the coils. Once they were cleaned with a rag they looked new. I tested cylinder 1 coil with a VOM and it compared exactly to the new updated coil. Cylinder 1 coil was slightly wet at the accordion folds, but not beneath them. I'm not sure if it was oil or coolant as it was very slight. The spark plug was dry. I didn't see any moisture on the other three coils. When I changed my coolant reservoir, I pulled coolant from the tank but didn't drain the system. There was still some coolant in the lines and it leaked out once they were disconnected. I'm wondering if the problem was caused by coolant seeping down into the spark plug tube. I've rerouted the coolant tank overflow hose to the outside of the heat shield. In any case the car is running good and there have been no new codes, but I've only driven about 75 miles so far so I'm not ready to call it fixed just yet. I put a 1 1/2 inch rubber coupler with stainless hose clamps on the oil filler tube as a temporary measure until I replace it with the new one that I have on hand.
  12. I checked out a few YouTube videos and it looks like it's a PITA, but doable. I'll order the filler pipe and address that after the new coil packs arrive.
  13. It broke at the end of the accordion section. I don't believe it has a vacuum leak because the car ran great for about 300 miles before I got the CEL. I'm inclined to think that more than one cylinder would throw a code from a leak. I'm not of the mindset to do quick fixes but I made an exception in this case because I needed to get the car on the road quickly. I've ordered new plugs and coil packs and will see if the issue goes away after I put them in. I was going to hold out for next year when I have some engine-out work done, but I'll bite the bullet and replace the filler tube now if the new coils don't fix the problem. How would I test the vacuum? Do you know if the glue/solvent used in PVC plumbing would work on the filler tube? The break was clean.
  14. Thanks. That's what I'm hoping the issue is. I've ordered new plugs and coils all around as they're all probably due.
  15. MY2000 C2 Tiptronic Cabriolet, stock intake, around 70k miles. I changed out the coolant tank about two weeks ago. During the tank install, I broke the oil filler tube. I wrapped it tightly with Gorilla tape as a few people had mentioned that as a temporary fix. I've driven the car about 250 miles since then with no issues. I detect a bit of gasoline smell in the exhaust but I'm not sure if it's my imagination since I had to disconnect the fuel lines during the tank R&R and I'm a bit paranoid after I work on my car. There are no black deposits on or near the tailpipes. Yesterday I was driving and was very low on fuel. I noticed a slight shudder every 15 or 20 seconds while I was idling at a traffic light. I filled it up as I thought maybe that was causing the shudder. When I got home, I cleaned the MAF with MAF Cleaner. I started the car briefly and it seemed fine. Today I pulled the car out and it was running rough immediately . Within about a minute I got a CEL P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire. It didn't rain yesterday but the humidity was close to 90% I had changed out the spark plugs about 20,000 miles ago but didn't replace the coils at that time, which I assume were original. I just ordered new plugs and coils and will install them when they arrive. Would a bad MAF or leaking oil filler tube trigger a misfire on just one cylinder? I was planning on delaying the oil filler tube replacement to next year when I'll have my Indy replace the 7 year old LNE IMS and the AOS. Is there anything I can check in the meantime?
  16. I'm surprised at what they're asking for used CDR-220's, but CDR-210's are actually going for a lot more.
  17. I'm one of the very few people who actually think the sound is pretty good. I have a CDR-220 with factory HiFi option. While the bass won't loosen your fillings, it is pretty decent and can be felt in the chest during some songs. I've added a bluetooth module to it and use my iPhone as a source. (For reference, my home audio equipment is Bang & Olufsen. so while I'm not an audiofile, I do have some taste when it comes to sound systems) I've read a few posts where people swapped out the door subwoofers only to be very disappointed. The factory ones are likely tuned specifically for the car. They're also not easy to replace as they are only 2 ohms. I think if you want a lot more bass you would need to add a powered subwoofer. Here is a custom fit one from Sound In Motion. Not cheap but pretty cool. http://www.sound-in-motion.com/installsDetail.html?id=17 My car is a cabriolet and I do have Fisters, so maybe you can completely discount this whole post. ?
  18. I'm starting to think that it's the exhaust that I'm smelling. When I shut off the car I don't get that gasoline smell. The car is running great but the gas mileage around town is terrible - around 14 mpg. On the highway it's around 20 mpg, maybe a bit higher.
  19. The two fuel line connections just to the right of the coolant tank (looking from the rear). One is vertical and the other horizontal.
  20. It's been a little over a week since I finished the coolant tank install and I'm still getting a bit of a gasoline smell from the engine compartment. There was a small amount of gas that leaked out when I disconnected the fuel lines (twice). I've checked and rechecked the connections for leaks but they appear to be dry. I just got back from a 300+mile round trip and the gas mileage seemed about right. I'm not seeing and drips on the ground. Is there something else I should check or is it reasonable that a little pooled gasoline would still be detectable after nine days? The car is garaged.
  21. I just did this job and it was a pain, but I knew that going in so I wasn't surprised. Unfortunately it looks like I'll have to go through a lot of it again because the level sensor isn't working. It shows low but the expansion tank is between min and max. Also, I was interrupted while buttoning it up yesterday and today when I took it for a drive I got PSM, ABS, and Check Engine lights. I have a WiFi OBDII reader in the port so I was able to check it quickly. In my haste I had forgotten to reconnect the MAF wire. Doh! Other than the level sensor, all is now good. Porsche really didn't have to design such a weird shaped tank for that job. Update: Basically had to do the entire job again just to install the new level sensor (which is working). In the process of wrangling the tank back into place, I leaned on the oil filler tube and broke it. I taped it up with Gorilla tape as a temporary measure and it seems to be working as I'm not getting any codes. I'll probably wait until next year to replace the tube when I bring the car in to have my AOS and LNE IMSB replaced. Those jobs are above my comfort level.
  22. I just got a copy of the 996 Workshop Manual. I don't know how current it is. It shows these values. Engine Mount to body M8 23 (17) Engine Carrier to engine M10 46 (34) Engine Mount to engine carrier M12 85 (63) I would think that the top bolts were "Engine Mount to body". No?
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