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Found 5 results

  1. MY2000 C2 Tiptronic Cabriolet, stock intake, around 70k miles. I changed out the coolant tank about two weeks ago. During the tank install, I broke the oil filler tube. I wrapped it tightly with Gorilla tape as a few people had mentioned that as a temporary fix. I've driven the car about 250 miles since then with no issues. I detect a bit of gasoline smell in the exhaust but I'm not sure if it's my imagination since I had to disconnect the fuel lines during the tank R&R and I'm a bit paranoid after I work on my car. There are no black deposits on or near the tailpipes. Yesterday I was driving and was very low on fuel. I noticed a slight shudder every 15 or 20 seconds while I was idling at a traffic light. I filled it up as I thought maybe that was causing the shudder. When I got home, I cleaned the MAF with MAF Cleaner. I started the car briefly and it seemed fine. Today I pulled the car out and it was running rough immediately . Within about a minute I got a CEL P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire. It didn't rain yesterday but the humidity was close to 90% I had changed out the spark plugs about 20,000 miles ago but didn't replace the coils at that time, which I assume were original. I just ordered new plugs and coils and will install them when they arrive. Would a bad MAF or leaking oil filler tube trigger a misfire on just one cylinder? I was planning on delaying the oil filler tube replacement to next year when I'll have my Indy replace the 7 year old LNE IMS and the AOS. Is there anything I can check in the meantime?
  2. Hi all The engine light comes on my 996 every so often, then goes off a few weeks later. I wasn't to concerned as the car drives well. So I got round to plugging it into the Durametric to look at the fault codes.... I've got loads of codes, P1340, P1531, P0300, P0306, P0304, P0305, P1585, P1319, P1318, P 1316, P1317, P0301, P0303! The car drives very nicely, loads of power and seems perfect when accelerating and driving. Feels perfect on the open road. The issue I have is a "tapping" noise on the engine on idle and a slightly eratic idle - its not much, but its not perfect. It sounds a bit like my 1955 VW Beetle. I was running 5W oil, but also changed it to 10w a month ago, but the tapping noise is exactly the same. Car has done 96,000m. So I'm keen to look at the codes and fix as many things as possible! So today I removed the spark plug/Coil pack covers on both sides to remove a spark plug from each side, the idea was that I could inspect them and the coil packs to see if there old or visually worn out. The plugs were NGK FGR6KQE 4 tipped plugs, with BERU coil packs all round. The plugs both looked great, normal grey/brown looking colours. The coil packs were dated Jan 2013 and visually looked clean and tidy. **I've owned the car about 18 months**. I was hoping the plugs may look old and I could just replace those to see if it improves, a fair £40 and Id get to spend some time hopefully improving the 996. I noticed that one of the middle "tubes" where the spark plug goes into was a bit wet with oil - the other two were dry. I see that its possible to buy new tubes for about £8 with the o-ring seals. The 3 tubes on the other side all looked dry, so just one that's seeping it seems. I'll work my way through the list of codes, but if anyone has any advice on these codes id love to hear from you! I see one of them was for a fuel vent, so I'm hoping a couple of codes could be cheap fixes. Many thanks, Paul Dorset.
  3. Hello all, This is a continuing repair to what started as a camshaft deviation out of spec leading to the replacement of the chain tensioner pads / brake pads / chain ramps on my 2000 911 - 996 5-Chain engine. Seen here: That odyssey has since been resolved but I now have a new issue. Quick background: Removed camshafts, readjusted the camshaft chain timing "marker" positions, replaced tensioner pads, reassembled everything per factory specs. On first start up got very rough idle and bad misfires. At first I thought it may have been my timing was off but went back and visually inspected all and all looked correct (visually). Upon further inspection realized parts guy had given me Bosch 7403 plugs instead of Bosch 7413 (2000 Porsche 911). Current issue: Switched out and installed the correct spark plugs and no more continuous misfires / backfires. Did the initial reset (wait 1 min with ignition on / turn ignition off / wait 10 sec) On the first start up it did misfired / back fired once but I assumed that was left over fuel. Car now runs but very rough and threw 2 codes: - P0300 : Porsche Fault code 62 - Misfire damaging cat. converter - P0301 : Porsche fault code Cylinder 1 misfire damaging to cat. converter Also, took these readings: Actual angle for camshaft bank 1: -12.53 Actual angle for camshaft bank 2: 3.05 On positive note the main reason for doing all this work was the original problem / issue of tensioner / brake pad wear which was giving me a -10 / -2.92 reading is now: Camshaft position 1 deviation: 0.00 Camshaft position 2 deviation: 0.00 So the question is now are the Actual angle for camshaft readings within specs and could incorrect timing be attributed to these new issues? And... Do I have to give the DME time to "relearn"? Txs all
  4. G'Day... new to forum and my first 911 after 40 years of dreaming and running too many various hot VW's and rotors : ) I have an early 2008 Australian delivered Carrera 2S that had a engine light - go to garage - come on after a rough idle and stall at the lights. I have done nearly 6000 k's since buying the car, and yes I have been using the performance, including a run down the drag strip a couple of weeks previous (13.3 @ 115mph) I have taken it to a local German specialist (we have no Porsche dealer nearby) and the fault codes that it is throwing up are P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire), P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire), P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire), and P0011A (Camshaft position system performance), with Bank 1 deviation 13 degrees ! The mechanic also noted P0401 (control deviation) and P0016 (Crankshaft to camshaft position) !!!! HELP ? The car has been dealer serviced annually and has 116000 km on the clock. To me it appears to run fine, from the drivers seat anyway, after reset the engine light has gone off and initially stayed off for a couple days then returned, hence took it to mechanic that looks after wife's GTI and sons Audi as they are all German trained and appear to know their stuff. (Good local reputation, that can't be said of Porsche dealer that is more than 4 hours away) The mechanic can't do anything for a couple of weeks so I have brought the car home on a tilt tray and was hoping someone out there may be able to point me in the right direction... He has suggested, stretched cam chain ?, broken chain guide ?, and suggested the only real option is engine and gearbox out before they can even assess what it is. Obviously I am a little concerned as this was a big spend downunder for what appeared to be an immaculate car... three months of ownership and I am looking at the engine out, many $$$$ with no ability to get a quote as they have no idea what the real issue is. It starts fine and I idled it off the transporter and parked it up. Any assistance or ideas are appreciated. Cheers.
  5. My 2000 Boxster S w/105k (body) 40k (engine) is acting up. Last fall, I got caught in downpour and inches of standing water, getting splashed hard by other cars. The CEL started flashing and the car was nearly impossible to drive past 3rd gear (no power and bucking) until I could get off freeway to let it dry out. It had several misfire codes set. Ever since then, it's been a little less smooth than I had been accustomed to, and now it is misfiring and bucking below about 2600 RPM all gears, all temps, but ONLY with high throttle opening (e-gas). Tipping the throttle in seems to be fine. High RPM seems ok, if maybe a little weak. If you keep the throttle open under the misifiring conditions, it will cause a flashing CEL, although it will not stay on. Stored codes are P0300, P0301. Previously, the secondary air injector and catalyst codes have set the CEL, but it went away on their own (this was after driving on a very dusty road last fall). Car is stock, except desnorkel. Half of exhaust was disconnected recently for wheel bearing replacement, but this problem predates that job. Have changed plugs, cleaned MAF, cleaned throttle body. Most of the coils are cracked, but not bad enough to see inside -- I epoxied them. Problem seemed to clear up after changing plugs, but then came back on next drive. I suspect bad coil(s), also MAF or vacuum leaks. My understanding is that the coils should have about 40k miles on them (same as engine), but they do look pretty rough. I am ordering coils, but want to make this problem go away permanently without playing the blind remove and replace game -- what else should I look at? I will disconnect the MAF and drive around to see if that helps and do a propane vacuum leak check as well when the engine lid is off. Thanks so much guys, Cary (photo is from Utah, 3k into my 10k mile summer roadtrip last year, car was awesome!)
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