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mickf

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Everything posted by mickf

  1. mickf
    You should be able to get bungs welded on at any muffler shop. If you take a sensor with you along with the exhaust piece getting the bungs, there would be no question re fit. Unless you take the car to have the work done, you will need to mark exactly where you want the bungs placed and give full consideration to the space needed to accomodate insertion of the sensor and routing of its wires. You should have the new bungs placed somewhere after the remaining cat. The placement on your stock 03 before & after the pre-cat, and on earlier models before & after the main cat, tells me there should be a catalytic converter between the two sensors on each side.
  2. mickf
    The main cat has a bung near its outlet. It's on top so may be hard to see just looking underneath the car. Take a look at the very top of the diagram in your earlier posting & you can see where the sensor screws in to the bung.
  3. mickf
    I lengthened my cables and had no "timing" problems. The problem I did have was getting good, durable splices. I'd seen conflicting info on whether solder or crimping was best, so soldered two extensions and crimped the other two. I searched for but never found any pluggable extensions. If you use copper extensions, as I did, then crimping is the way to go. The problem with soldering is that the OEM wiring is stainless steel, which doesn't solder well to copper -- at least not with the Radio Shack solder I was using. I've done a lot of soldering over the years and never had this problem before, but had never tried to solder these two metals together either. Several of the soldered joints failed resulting in CELs. So I redid all the soldered joints with crimps last October, and nary a CEL since then. Good luck, Mick
  4. mickf
    No doubt a Porsche-engineered solution as suggested by Loren would be best. Nonetheless, good aftermarket lowering springs such as H&R or Eibach will do the job and will not cause the problems you had with your Mercedes. You will get up to about 1 more degree negative camber, which will not ruin your tires assuming you get a good alignment done after installing the springs. The biggest problems with lowering, IMHO, are severe speed bumps, steep driveway ramps, etc. My '01 S had H&Rs for about 45,000 mi; I then switched to JIC coilovers which allowed me to raise the car a tad and to adjust stiffness for autocrossing, etc.
  5. mickf
    Hey, I am a 60 yr old grandpa. I drive my '01S with plenty of gusto and am also frequently in the 16 mpg range. But like stumpjumper, it can vary wildly depending on what I'm doing with the tank of gas. According to my OBC, I average about 4.5 mpg in an autocross! ;)
  6. mickf
    The tip on my '01 S has done all things you describe, including the occasional P0740, for the past couple years which covers over 30,000 miles and about 100 autocrosses. I notice the RPM change when cruising and whether in M or D, often when the highway changes from level to uphill. Almost like a mini-downshift. If it does it while autocrossing it can't be noticed -- but the P0740s do seem to appear following a particularly brutal autocross. The good news is that it doesn't seem to get worse -- it's just there to annoy me. Also, it doesn't seem to adversely affect my autocrossing. The worst part to me is how it demonstrates the woeful lack of Tiptronic expertise that seems to exist. My dealership has spent hours on it and came up with nothing except to watch it. Other shops I talk to, well, you can see their eyes glazing over......... I eventually decided to stop stressing over it and to think of it as a feature -- slightly lower gearing when dictated by load on the drive train! :cursing: Who knows, maybe it's giving me a gearing advantage in competition.
  7. mickf
    You can find the diameter, thickness (yes, the sway bars are tubular) and relative stiffness specs at the bottom of this link: http://www.cb-racing.com/boxster_030.html
  8. mickf
    The higher pressure will make the handling feel more crisp and the ride more firm, both due to less sidewall flex. It may also decrease grip though. IMHO, for best handling try rear in mid-30s and front a couple psi higher than the rear. I believe the 29 psi front specification is designed to ensure understeer, which is easier to recover from than oversteer should you get out of shape.
  9. mickf
    Got mine at my local non-big-box hardware store. Seen at auto parts stores, Sears.
  10. mickf
    You don't want it rattling -- it should be in there fairly firm. Sounds like a couple spots of foam tape would provide enough tension to solve it. Good luck.
  11. mickf
    I just ordered headers for my '01 Boxster S. Having searched this and several other forums, I've found some conflicting info on bung placement. - Am I correct that the O2 sensors that are behind the stock secondary cats (the cats that are integral with the stock headers) need to be placed behind the primary (rear) cats? - And that the O2 sensors that are at the front of the stock secondary cats can be placed anywhere before the primary cats, i.e., at the new header collectors? - Is there a stock O2 sensor available from Porsche or others with a wire length that will reach the rear of the primary cats? Many thanks, just seeking confirmation before doing!
  12. mickf
    I've seen that with mine. I'm pretty sure the problem was that when putting it back on after a wash I snapped the upper clips without first ensuring the bottom of the deflector was properly centered on the gizmo in the middle of the roll bar. In other words, operator error. :o
  13. mickf
    Maybe a pebble between the rotor's backside and its protective plate. I get them sometimes and the screech can drive me nuts! No harm, though.
  14. mickf
    Thanks Loren.
  15. mickf
    Got a P0740 on my '01 Tip Boxster S. Haven't found the right place to get the description. TIA for any help.
  16. mickf
    My '01S, when I bought it used, had stock 18" Sport Designs, PZero 225-40 & 265-35, H&R springs and 14 mm spacers with no rubbing. When I replaced the PZeros with Bridgestone S03s, I had slight rubbing on major bumps & dips -- maybe just because the tires were at full tread depth.
  17. mickf
    Thanks Tool Pants & John. I'll give it a try.
  18. mickf
    My '01 S has the speaker/storage box option that sits behind the seats on the engine cover. Is there a "trick" to unplugging and reconnecting the speaker cable where it connects to the harness on the passenger side? It seemed to take too much brute force the one time I disconnected it and don't think it will survive that again. I would have given up but I was sorta desperate at the time. TIA, Mick
  19. mickf
    EDIT: Looks like you were posting your solution while I was writing this! :D Hi John, Noticing the lack of response (guess nobody knows!), are you pretty certain of the source? I know for me the rattles never end up coming from where I thought. I sometimes do get a rattle coming from over my left shoulder. Turned out to be the need for lubricant on the door latch mechanism. It sure didn't sound like that would be it, but another thread led me there (long time ago) and in desperation I tried it and eureka, no more rattle/squeak -- until it needs another shot! Thought I'd throw that out just in case... By the way, yours is a beautiful Speed Yellow Boxster -- saw it (but not you) at BMWCCA's last event at Ripken.
  20. mickf
    Aquido, if the leak isn't even spotting the garage floor, it is very, very minor. Don't worry about it. Check your oil level regularly to be safe. The danger is if the leak becomes major and you run low on oil. Not likely to happen suddenly or without you noticing it. The RMS on my 01 Tip S has been leaking for at least one year. I have not yet had to add oil between oil changes. Enjoy your car, and to be sure you do, drive it like you stole it!
  21. mickf
    Ken, I think stiffness is a better target than diameter. It gets complicated: Stiffness would be a function of diameter, thickness, and bar length. Some bars are tubular, some solid, and the bar's length is variable when you go with adjustable bars. Also, the front & rear ranges of adjustability will somewhat negate the need to seek proportionate bar diameters. So you can't just compare diameter and arrive at your answer. The hard part is going to be getting the relative stiffness data on the various bars at their various settings. I'm in the midst of this on my '01S. Here's what I believe to be the case with some of the possible solutions: - Front: The GT3 bar is settable to be between 54% and 109% of the stock bar. It has 5 settings and requires adjustable drop links. I got my bar and links from Tarett Engineering. - Rear: The only adjustables I'm aware of are H&R and TRG. Tarett has one in the works. Their ranges of adjustability is less because of geometry. I'm still running stock in rear, awaiting Tarett's. I have the front bar set full soft. Autocrossing with the GT3 bar compared to stock, I find it to cause increased understeer in slower tighter turns, but to dramatically improve high speed control. Overall a major plus IMHO. Good luck.
  22. mickf
    Just inquired with Quaife-America (http://www.quaifeamerica.com/) whether their diff works with a Tip S. They weren't sure -- hadn't sold/done one before -- but thought the Tip used the G50 gears (meaning their diff for the G50-equipped 911s might work). To be sure I'd have to either send them my diff or get theirs and do a trial fitment. Anybody know about the Boxster S Tip vs. G50? Thanks.
  23. mickf
    You can't see any of the exhaust system by opening the engine compartment anyway. Gotta get under the car. Probably the easiest way to tell what is original is by the discoloration of the metal.
  24. mickf
    I was afraid of the answer, but makes sense. Those tires are too expensive and sure don't need serious acceleration to wear out quickly. They do that just fine on correct wheels. Appreciate the input!
  25. mickf
    Are there serious downsides of running 245/45-17 Kuhmo 710s on my 10" wide rear wheels for autocross? Kuhmo specs are for 7.5-9" wheel width. Are there real safety concerns or real performance issues if the wheels are an inch wider than specified by the manufacturer? Since they'll only be used for autocross, the added potential for curb rash isn't really a concern. Running 245s all around seems to be the proven setup for autocross Boxsters, so I'm trying to figure out whether I'll be OK or need to go with 275/40s in the rear. Thanks!
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