Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

CaptnCrash

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by CaptnCrash

  1. The sport chrono doesn't do a lot on the C2 or C4s other than some suspension tweaks .. You will see a bigger difference with that option on the turbo as it adds some additional torque mid-range. My wife's DD is a 2011 911TT ... We test drove a 2011 C4s and the only difference was about 115hp and some pretty substantial torque, Other than that the cars were pretty much identical. All of these were 6MT .. We don't do slush-boxes. I am a firm believer that you don't own a modern P car without a warranty even if you're a DIY'er ... YMMV. --CC If PDK was not available, I guess it was a tiptronic. Is that not a good system? PDK was available in a 2011TT but we wanted no part of that, and to date there have been a number of problems reported. Staying with the tried and true 6MT has always proven to get the most out of the car and be by far the most reliable, not to mention it saves a ton of $$$ when talking about a P car. Staying with the iron brakes and 5 lug wheels is also good. --CC
  2. The sport chrono doesn't do a lot on the C2 or C4s other than some suspension tweaks .. You will see a bigger difference with that option on the turbo as it adds some additional torque mid-range. My wife's DD is a 2011 911TT ... We test drove a 2011 C4s and the only difference was about 115hp and some pretty substantial torque, Other than that the cars were pretty much identical. All of these were 6MT .. We don't do slush-boxes. I am a firm believer that you don't own a modern P car without a warranty even if you're a DIY'er ... YMMV. --CC
  3. Always demand the return of your old parts especially if you provided the new ones. Won't work with warranty items but in that case who cares. Having a return bag will answer these and other questions pretty quickly. --CC
  4. Softronic develops the flash, a lot of people resell them.
  5. Now don't I feel just stupid. I did look at the owners manual that came with the car and went right past that. Thanks! --CC
  6. You know what's funny. We bought our 2011 911TT from one of the largest dealers in the country. The dealer knowing we had a 250 mile trip home all of it via freeway had the following advice : Keep the rpm's below 4500, don't run for a long period at the same rpm, use 4th, 5th, 6th and vary the rpms ... After 350 miles drive it like you're going to. We've used this same philosophy on all the new cars we've purchased and never had one that had oil consumption issues. We pretty much followed that and we don't track the car, and don't red-line it. It's a 6spd manual so these things are very easy to control. I changed the oil at 2500 miles. I measured the drain vs the manual and came within .2 quart. This is the second P car we have owned, and we broke the first one in pretty much the same way. It used a quart the first change then tapered off after that to very near zero usage after 4000 miles. 2.7L in a Cayman with a 5spd manual. IMNSHO if you continuously red-line an engine, you will use oil, and you will wear it out sooner. Banging on the rev limiter continuously isn't a good thing regardless of how good the engine was initially. So I believe that in many cases consumption and/or early failure is largely a factor of use as opposed to quality. Before you flame me, notice I said "many" not most or all. Even race drivers can abuse or conserve their hardware. The really good ones conserve ;-) --CC
  7. I would be seriously careful about using any form of high pressure wash on a modern engine bay. Cars today, P included, have a ton of electronics and other crap that the cars in the old days didn't. Getting that stuff internally wet will spell disaster. In the old days if you got the distributor wet all you had to do was blow it out with some compressed air and on your way. Not so easy today. --CC
  8. Could anyone give me a clue as to where the microphone the PCM uses for bluetooth enabled cell phone calls is located on a 2011 911TT ? TIA --CC
  9. do you think its worth trying the whole air intake system by K&N? Thanks IMHO - no. It would make some difference on a turbo not much (if any) on a normally aspirated car. Lauren, Really not much of a difference on my GT3 RS, because the engine is normally aspirated. Thanks for the clarification, because I was going to buy an air intake system, but obviously not anymore after learning this. Regards, Dane While the intake "kit" may not yield much, the BMC or K&N factory replacement *filters* are worth it. They flow better than paper and will last the life of your vehicle. Easy to clean and reuse. Water doesn't bother them either. --CC
  10. too funny ! 2010 Porsche 911 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<--- yep it's a 911 they got that right -- NOT Style 4dr HB Turbo <---------------------------- yep they sure know it ... Price Contact Us for Pricing Special Price Contact Us for Pricing Exterior Color Platinum Silver Metallic Interior Black Leather Engine 4.8L <-------------------------------------really !!!!!!!!! Transmission Automatic Body Style 4dr Car <------------------------ really !!!!!!!!!! VIN Number WP0AC2A74AL090790 Stock Number 090790 Equipment ------------------------------------ Microsoft OLE DB Provider for ODBC Drivers error '80040e31' [Microsoft][ODBC SQL Server Driver]Timeout expired /vehicle_new_ext.asp, line 1617 ------------------------------------- and it looks like their web programmer is as good as their knowledge of the product ... --CC
  11. The 3.8l [9A1] engine has no IMS so no issues there. The only problem I've heard of was a failure of the gear drive on the oil pump on a 3.8l [ 9A1 ] motor. And I don't think that's very common. I don't think the 9A1 is mod friendly so if you buy a turbo don't think you're going to crank in another 150hp real easy without breaking it, those types of upgrades will cost you. The 6spd manual they use is pretty solid as well as the clutch so no worries there. IMNSHO I'd stay away from TIP or PDK, it's just a whole lot more that does go wrong. If you go with a 997.2 then you can probably get one that's CPO'd so if you do have an issue most likely it will be covered at least the first several years. I suspect the prices on the C2's and C4's will come down a lot once the 991 is released. --CC
  12. Here are emission tests. Check CO, that is 1.18 instead of 0 at idle and 2.05 instead of 0.29 at 2500 rpm. HC (unburned fuel?) is also double at idle, and 50% higher when running... My last experience with vivid was "vividly" terrible. Stay away, very far away. --CC
  13. Anything *after* the cats will not effect emissions. Some states do have noise standards though and they may get you there. Good luck! --CC
  14. We have 2000 miles on a 2011 911-tt. It has used zero oil since day 1. It's a 6MT so it's easy to vary the rpm's. We drove it home 250 miles from the dealership, highway speeds varying between 5th and 6th gear and stopping a couple times for gas. Wife uses it for a DD now and it takes the occasional 200 mile weekend trip. Dealer told us stay below the 4k rpm limit for 350 miles and vary the rpms then have at it. --CC
  15. Durametric is not all that expensive and is an awesome tool for the DIY'er. Good investment. --CC
  16. Paul: If it's a stock flywheel it's most likely dual mass. Do you know how to test the rotational run-out of the center section and what the spec is ? Thanks --CC
  17. Get the car clean, use the good old sandwich bag test and clay as required. If you use good sealers / waxes you shouldn't need to do this too often unless you're in an environmentally nasty place. Good news is it doesn't hurt anything and will help. Make sure you use detailing spray NOT soapy water as a lubricant. Also remember that clay doesn't do paint correction, it doesn't get rid of swirls or scratches, it just removes contaminates from the surface. --CC
  18. I suspect you'll hear some pretty religious support on both sides of that question. From my own personal experience, and especially for street use, you won't be able to tell the difference between an N spec and one that's not. --CC
  19. Well there's 2 ways to look at this. If they're setting you up for "because you have an after market radio we're not going to fix your engine" then they will have to prove that the radio caused the engine failure. Dumb move on PCNA's part for sure. The law is very, very clear here. If it's because they can't get a complete data dump for P because of the radio and they need to do a visual inspection to determine the actual cause and submit that to P then that actually sounds reasonable. It would seem logical to me that as long as you've done the maintenance you should be good to go. 16K miles is pretty low if the engine was maintained for that kind of failure unless there's been some horrendous abuse, or a real parts defect. --CC
  20. Not sure what your emissions laws are there but the biggest restriction in the exhaust is the cats. It's fairly cheap to purchase cat eliminator pipes and that will give you a substantial boost in noise even with a stock system. Regardless of how you handle the exhaust you may need a flash or post cat O2 SIMMS to insure no CEL's. --CC
  21. Hey Loren, On a 2011 there's actually only 2 screws that hold that thing on at the ends. There's a series of flat plastic "tabs" moulded to the spoiler piece that punch in through slots in the lower bumper to hold it in place, no screws required. Luckily she didn't damage that BUT she messed up the right side front inner fender well cover which has a tab at the bottom that holds the metal screw-clip thing that attaches the corner of the spoiler piece. Unfortunately what I see on the web for a 2010 picture wise doesn't match what's on here and I can't find any 2011 pictures. Can you give me the part number for the right front inner fender well cover for a 2011 911 TT ? Thanks! --Ed
  22. Thank you yes, I ordered one for $159 plus shipping. Went out of state to avoid sales tax since the shipping seems to be the same. --CC
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.