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racerken

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Everything posted by racerken

  1. Hi, My 997.1 is making rubber noises which I think are coming from the bump stops or whatever that donut is called. what made you suspect the bumpstops?
  2. I used Roan Trucking to ship my car from MI to NJ. They had a closed trailer with a two story rack. They seem to specialize in high value cars as all cars were collector items. The driver was a car guy and took very good care of all the cars when he was rearranging the weight balance. I paid 1500 and was a happy camper. Back in 03, I shipped my Boxster from CA to MI and went with low cost open carrier. It made the trip but the car looked like hell. i think i paid 1000.
  3. Good point on the water but I'm shocked that you can emulsify .5 liters*water into approx 9 Iiters of oil. When the car was in Michigan, my stupid commute was 6 miles all at 30 to 50 mph. Yes, I know, total waste of a 997 but on weekends I'd blast it on the freeways for 30 minutes. Oil changes each 6 months, etc. In Germany, I typically travel from Stuttgart to Frankfurt which is about 320 miles round trip. This last trip, i topped off the oil with 1 liter which meant that when I started driving here back in June, I put 5k km's on it with at least 6 to 8 hours of sustained rpm (4.5k rpm sustained, 6k for acceleration but 1 to 2 minutes). Prior to this last trip to Frankfurt, I topped off to (top of the bars in the instrument panel). My driving is all Autobahn but in case you didn't know, not all Autobahn is unlimited, there are major intersections which limit speed to 120km/hour or construction which can go down to 60km/hour... I'd say that 3 hours of very high speed sustained driving with the engine at 4k to 6k rpm all the time. It's fun but very tiring. Time on road: 2.5 hours per segment. Ambient Temp: 27 to 30C Oil Temp: 225F (even when I cool it off) trips/week: 2 Gas: 100 Octane There is no visible smoke so I'm assuming that blowby at high rpm, high torque is just a fact of life? I guess my new procedure is to keep a close eye on the driving habits vs. oil consumption.
  4. Hi, I recently moved to Germany and I brought along my 997 which was TuV'd in June. I noticed that after driving high speed/high rpm for sustained time, i.e., 4.5k rpm at 2 hours, burns .5 liter of oil. I never noticed this in the US because a typical drive to work never exceeded 3k rpm. 997 is stock at 45k miles on the odometer. Thanks. Ken
  5. Hi Scherb, I'm about to send my 997.1 to Stuttgart. How long did you drive around EU before shipping back to the US? What kind of insurance did you purchase? any emmission issues? Sorry for so many questions.
  6. NO, DON'T Drop the engine. I had to drop it because of the Air Oil Separator... You can remove the heat wheel well and heat shield to get a view of the vacuum lines. you can also hook up a vacuum tester that when plugged into the vacuum line, creates a vacuum and there is a guage that you can monitor - if the vacuum drops, you know you have a leak. Lead detection is not easy and there is no short cut or 'easy' button. If you go into my flickr page you can see all sorts of engine shots.
  7. Hi, I'm about to ship my 997 to Stuttgart so I can drive it around during my long trips there. Has anyone done this? Difficulties in passing the Tuv test? Based on what the locals tell me, it's not an issue. Also, any members there? I would like recommendations on where to shop for tools: hazet/stahwille.... Thanks!
  8. @Seahawkeye: I had similar issues. In my case there were vacuum leaks in the line between the solenoid and vacuum actuator. when the motor was out, i took my time to trace all lines from the vacuum actuator to the vacuum source. i can see that there is rubbing of the line between the vacuum actuator (VA) and solenoid (which is located on top of the motor behind the throttle body. the line is protected by a stainless steel mesh which can rub against the muffler support assembly (you should see clips) then transitions to a plastic line just outside the intake manifold runners. P1060005 by racerken, on Flickr See the braided line? Every location where it comes in contact with metal causes wear and of course vibration helps to cut thru, heat causes the plastic to become brittle. Just replace it but it's really expensive from the dealer. I have more pictures if you want.
  9. @ Andry, I looked up the tmps from Rareelectircal on Amazon and they are indeed $38. Did you check the battery life after installation? I'm curious to hear about the birth day of the battery...
  10. Thanks Loren. I dropped my engine earlier and I thought perhaps I yanked a TPMS circuit out of place... So I'm going to buy a set from Rock Auto at: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS, TPM2A, Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) Sensor, $ 76.79 each x 4 = $ 307.16 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS, TPM5, Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) Sensor Valve, $ 9.94 each x 4 = $ 39.76 I'm assuming that the install is about $ 35/per wheel. I hope it solves the problem but at least I can remove one most likely cause before I start tracing wires.
  11. Hi, I have a 2008 997 and my TPMS won't relearn itself. The Durametric reads: Part Number 997.618.103.06, Fault Code: 800C, Wheel electronics signals implausible. What does this mean? Thanks.
  12. update: I removed the inner panel and the lock assembly. The failed part is a microswitch or the cam that operates the switch. I attempted cleaning the contact area and checking for continuity changes at the pins but no luck. The door lock assembly is a manufactured by Arvin Meritor, p/n 3D1-837-015-C. $ 133 from sunset. There are no tricks to report but I would strongly suggest using tape around the outer panel as to avoid scratching - in haste, I left this step out so I have minor scratches from the plastic prying tools....
  13. I answered my own question... I reconnected the window motor and had to raise the window in order to have access to the door lock assembly and all works well.
  14. I just had a situation whereby the window is fully up when the door is open and upon closing the window does not come down to clear the trim. Durametric is 8006 Door Lock error. I'm assuming that this is the door lock. Is the door lock is connected to the door handle?
  15. If you remove the window motor, is there any adjustment on the amount of travel, i.e., is there any length of travel adjustments?
  16. Hi, I did this about 2 years ago. Just get a high speed 1/4" diameter x 20k rpm electric or pneumatic grinding tool and a bit with a fine pattern for carbon steel removal. The tool I used is cylindrical with a spherical top. Use eye protection (glasses + a face shield). I removed the rear fascia and the heat insulation piece and you should have adequate space to grind the fasteners.
  17. Well, I finally put the engine back in and started up the car. All is perfect. Aside from installing the new AOS, I ended up having the injectors cleaned by a local fuel injection house (Kinsler). It runs like new. Notes: I recycled the coolant and only lost about a pint so the cost for Porsche coolant was only 1 gallon. I double strained the coolant prior to adding it back to the engine. The Pentosin (power steering) was only 1 pint loss (did not recycle). The only items purchased were the oil filter set, throttle body gasket, fuel injector o-rings. I don't think I spent over 200 in parts. If I had to do it over again, I'm sure I could drop an engine with transmission in 8 hours and the same for the install. Most of the time was spent making sure to be sure... AOS seemed to be the culprit.
  18. Does anyone know the torque for the screw to mount the Pulley to the engine block? I know the Generator Pulley is 33 ft-lbs. Forget it. I found it: http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/852358-idler-pulley-torque-question.html quote - "simply install the bolts and tighten to 34 ft-lb (46 Nm) for the upper bolt if it's an M10x145 (8.8) bolt or 48 ft-lb (65 Nm) if it's an M10x145 (10.9). The lower pulley is tightened to 17 ft-lb (23 Nm)."
  19. @Ahsai, the oil filter was clean but I just decided to check all the oil after the dump for sanity. There were no other deviations reported in Durametric and no previous engine work. Update: I dropped the engine, swapped the AOL, checked the circuits for the fuel injectors - all is well, now I can't remember how to get the vacuum hoses straight - not enough pictures prior to rip out.... If anyone has a 2008 C2 with the PSE, I'd appreciate any pictures of where the vacuum source is located. I'm now checking out the 997 2 5-05 Sport Exhaust TSB but I need pictures...
  20. Hi, I am lost. I removed the vacuum routing that controls the two solenoids or valves which control the vacuum units on left and right muffler to actuate the sport exhaust system. I am looking for the vacuum source. The vacuum source seems to provide vacuum to both the sport exhaust system and the intake manifold balance unit (there is a flapper which is vacuum actuated. Help!!!! Thanks. Next time I will take more pictures than is absolutely necessary.
  21. Update: The engine rotates, there are small puddles of oil in just about each cylinder present when using the bore scope, I did locate the AOS, it is behind the driver side intake on the side (bank 1 - 3). In an attempt to reach it I removed the generator but failed because I cannot reach the last inner-most screw (closest to firewall). I can reach the lower screw of the AOS from below but I cannot muscle the bellows hose. I even attempted to remove the coolant tank but there is interference with the fuel injector cable tray and fuel line... I even lowered the engine by 30mm. Any ideas before I take the final step? The final episode is to drop the engine. First i need to order the tall Jack Stands (ESCO) so i can slide the engine/transmission out of from under the car. This way i can also check the fuel injectors and the relays to solve the durametric error that leads to a bad connection/no-signal.
  22. Yes, the oil filter is clean - good news. The balancer tube shows signs of oil vapors but not heavy. The intake plenum is clean. I ran a quick check on the Durametric and no report of cam deviations. The only impact to the electrical wiring might be my habit of blasting water to remove the Detroit salt from winter driving so I'm thinking that I might have corrosion in the contacts somewhere. Hence, I intend on removing the injectors and wire harness to conduct a continuity check.
  23. Ahsai, I'm reading now. For some reason I thought that the 2008 was considered the 'later model'... I guess not. Thanks. After I drained the oil, I transfered it to a clear pickle jar and inspected it, then I poured it one liter at a time over a very strong magnet to check for metal and I also used a strainer. Lucky, no debris. Pulleys all turn but I need to try cranking. Thanks!!! This is actually very humbling and disturbingly fun. I still don't trust the dealer.
  24. I have a really stupid question: 1. I can't locate the air oli separator which I thought was somewhere behind the a/c unit but there is nothing there. 2. There seems to be something behind the alternator and I looked up a part which refers to the 'Oil Mist Collector' = is this the culprit? 3. then online I see the 'Air Oil Separator' as two units and it's underneath the car, so I have to remove the oil pan. Am I completely lost?
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