70Sixter

Hey, Fudge, please don't think the guys on RennTech each expect an individual answer. A lot of us try to help, throw out a suggestion(s), and hope that the original poster lets us know the eventual outcome. This kind of feedback is the only reward...that and the hope you'll pass your experience on to the next guy when you can. Good luck!

Owner's manuals are available from dealers at reasonable cost. You need one if you do not have it. Also buy the Bentley Msnual thru this site's Amazon Store. Trust me, you'll thank me.

For the money the dealer is quoting you, +1 on the Raby solution. Regards, Maurice. ++2 Raby can upgrade and increase displacement in a stock appearing engine. And your numbers will match if that matters to you. It definitely does to me.I f you do not know, Jake is a long-time hero in the 914/TypeIV community and has been for years. They (Type IVers) say he has gone to the dark side with his water cooled work. I say welcome to Water World, Jake!!!!!!!!!! No affiliation, just admiration. :D

Guys, I bought the 986 manual last time on sale. Great work to have in the garage when a picture is worth a thousand words, and there are words to back them up. Yeah the Bentley manual is beside my computer for easy stuff and codes or wiring diagrams, but the factory manual is there for the tough stuff and will convey when I sell my historic original 986S in 25 or so years. Highly recommended. Especially for 944s that are not getting any younger.

I agree with White987S regarding fresh oil for storage to avoid contaminants doing their evil work all winter. When in doubt change in the spring also. As far as oil settling, that can be a problem if you do not start the car periodically. The oil will drain off the parts it is supposed to protect. With air cooled cars I squirt some oil directly into the cylinders at storage and again before firing it up. For the only two year storage I've done over 10 years ago. At home I prefer "exercise periods," but I've never lived in snow country. I think I'd empty some oil and add some to combat any drainage. Or just change it again.

Porsche specifies new filter every other oil change @ 15k miles for your car. You are right to change at 5k and recommend new filter with each change for cheap piece of mind as it sound like you plan to do. Order filter and new crush ring for the oil plug from sponsor Sunset :sunset: t or Suncoast in Florida which I also love. You'll get the right parts at a fair price either way. I think Toolpants has some comparable filters available locally that are just as good. Search is your friend for this, but it might be on the post referenced by 1schoir.

I don't believe they sell it in the states. I went with 5W-40 Motul 300V after much research into oil formulations and API ratings. The older formulations are listed as out of date on the API website. It is not on the Porsche approved list Loren referenced. Worth the price of contributing membership, by the way!! Manufacturers are specifying lower ZDDP levels (probably at government insistence) to avoid pollution that might result from "damage" to cats. I decided to risk replaceable cats over internal engine operation and life. So far so good, and engine really seems to have less clatter. Absolute truth? Not sure, but convinced enough by LN Engineering's research findings. Talk to Charles Navarro at LN if you have doubts.

RennLine advertises HVAC and radio block off plates. But your prototype looks pretty professional! You could probably sell them to people wanting to add custom gauges and/or switches.

I try cleaning MAF first. If oil got to MAF replacing filter is too late. This is common with oiled filters. Although some have no problem. Usually results from excess oil after re-oiling filter. Wrapping oiled filter in newspaper is the reported solution to excess oil.

I'd go for the Cayman, but I have no kids to consider. All things being equal - Cayman! Add 07 Boxster to the equation and I'd vote Boxster.

I change oil and filter every year at 5-6000 miles. Works out to dealer service on even years on home service on odd years.

I came to my conclusion in trying out new cars on dealer lots. Really hit me when I went directly form one to the other and back in quick succession. So I scratched sport seats off my "want" list and "willing to have"list" and put them on my "no way" list. I've stayed with stock seats and find them adequate and comfortable even on long trips. I really like the heated seat option and had it on my "gotta have" list from day one. There are some nice aftermarket or Porsche GT seats, but too expensive for me at this point.

I am 6' and 180 lbs, pretty close to terryp88. I gave up on sport seats because of the awful shoulder constriction that made me hunch my shoulders no matter what the seat position. Assuming 9x7 sports seats are similar to 9x6 seats. To me it is a shame that the sport seats concentrate on shoulders rather than lumbar and seat bolstering, which would help hold you in the seat against lateral g-forces much better than shoulder bolsters. I think they went with ease of entry. As far as seat position - the primary factor in how far the pedals should be from the seat is the brake pedal. At full braking force on the pedal the knee should still be bent. This is to ensure that you leg is not straight upon an impact resulting in shattered bones. As was also posted elbows should be at least slightly bent to prevent stress on the neck and shoulders.

Okay, after much research and deliberation I decided to go with 5W-40 Motul 300V (not on Porsche approved list) for my annual oil change and LN Engineering's screw-on filter adapter with a high-flow Napa Gold filter recommended and provided by LN. By the way the adapter kit comes with extra o-rings and an installation tool. Very high quality stuff. I also bought LN's oil test sample kit for $25. Therein lay the problem. My usual doubled-up 2X8 lift solution did not leave enuf space to get the sample bottle out from between the engine and my oil catch pan. Sooo, (and here it goes downhill) I decided to yank the bottle out and accept some oil spillage. BAD IDEA! I knocked the catch pan out of reach. Despite my vile language the oil continued to flow. Revise that to HOT oil continued to flow. I finally got the pan in place and went for the cat litter which was AWOL. Had to ask spousal unit to pick some up on the way home and, of course, admit why. After 10 lbs of cat litter, the rest went well. The adapter went on as advertised and same for the filter. Also replaced the engine oil plug with LN's aluminum plug with magnet in center. Someone else posted a notable engine quietness with group 5 oil, which I discounted. But there really is much less clatter at idle. Maybe it is just the fresh oil. I'll post any problems or additional benefits later after more experience. By the way, I bought half the stuff from Jake Raby (Flat Six) and half directly from LN in order to support both their efforts to support our M96 engines. I switched from Blackstone to LN to contribute to the database Charles Navarro and Jake share. Data are in different format from Blackstone, but I believe the database is important and URGE all of you M96 owners to do the same and to support Charles and Jake when you can. Charles also says he is doing everything he can to keep his (American) suppliers working, and I support this effort also. Note: I have no affiliation with Charles or Jake, but admire both. One other observation: One other slight problem. Motul comes in 2 liter metal cans with no pouring tube. No big deal, but after opening the can the slightest squeeze of the can pushes oil. I was certain I'd spill it before it was in position over the filler tube and my funnel. So I confiscated a 2 quart translucent plastic liquid container with a pouring lip from the kitchen and poured the oil into in one qt at a time. Then into the funnel at the filler tube. Another problem is that the cans have no pressure relief so the flow is not smooth. Next time I'll use a can opener to make an opening opposite the pouring hole to provide pressure relief and enable smooth pouring. By the 4th can I was pretty proficient at not squeezing and at pouring smoothly, but still continued to transfer to plastic container. This also facilitated getting an exact fill because the container was translucent AND graduated in quarts/pints/cups.

+1 Raggtop.

Resistors are rated in Ohms as you said. They are color coded with stripes and if you know (for sure) the rating your local Radio Shack or electronics part supply could tell you which one you need. I agree with wvicary that the airbag system is too dangerous to mess with if you don't know exactly what you are doing. I vote for not putting the removable steering wheel in until the day before you put the cage in. Some one will want your three spoke wheel and airbag, so you don't want to blow the bag and possibly your hearing out!!

Welcome. Always good to have some more diversity! Car looks great. I had an 84 and absolutely loved it. Had to sell it or store two cars in 86 due to orders to Tokyo. I still miss it.

:welcome: :welcome: :welcome:

PCA's website has a wealth of info and experts in each area that you can ask questions to.Bruce Anderson is the Senior Technical Advisor. There are also registers for most models and there is one for 74/75 model. cannot remember when the chain tensioners were upgraded to be lubricated. And yes, the ramps the chains run on should be replaced unless there is documentation that lists that it has been done.

Or Daimler!

Much of the whole dash is press fitted. I'd try some pressure on the all the seams. Might be something besides the defroster. If your dash has been taken apart and put back together a number of times the tight fit might be lost until you replace the offending part(s). Good luck. And :welcome:

White is Right. Dealer allocations are key. They can change the build sheet (I believe) up until some point I do not remember.

A lot of people have trouble with oiled air filters, and a lot do not. I go OEM and do not believe the aftermarket filters are worth the possible risk in a MAF engine. I do use K&N in my 914.

I have read a lot about oil lately and still do not know if the viscosities are linear when mixed. I saw on one site (LN Engineering maybe) that they mixed 0W-40 and 10W-40 and calculated that they got 5W-40.

Leakage would be one sign. The standard used to be that if you push down on each corner and it bounces more than once your shock was shot. Not sure if that works on our cars. Shock do not absorb shocks, they dampen the springs or torsion bars that absorb the shock. So bobbing after a quick stop is a good (bad) sign. Same for excess body movement on bumpy roads. With over 90k miles they would be a candidate for replacement even if there are some miles on the. But real answer is it depends on how hard you drive/have driven the car.