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PKN

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Everything posted by PKN

  1. If you don't have the correct drive to get the seat bolts out, you can use an 8mm hex key which fits very nicely - especially if it is on a socket wrench. I tried to find replacement M10x1.5 bolts with a button head but no chance at the usual places locally... PKN
  2. The pump ate the foam filter which then destroyed the plastic vanes. Examination of the vanes found them to be quite brittle - either due to age or heat after the valve stuck and pumped exhaust gases through them Steve
  3. Thanks for the tutorial on this. It was not an easy job, mainly because of poor design. Had the valve been mounted closer to the engine room (and it easily could have been) or replaced with an in-line valve rather than one bolted to a metal fitting or even if it had used studs on the valve instead of threaded hole it would have been a 16 minute job instead of a three hour frustrating exercise. Here are a couple of tips if you plan to do this job - glue the gasket onto the pump and find somebody with small hands and a sense of direction to help you, Oh well, it is done now and as expected, the old valve was jammed with teeth from the air injection impeller. While Mr Grumpy is at home, I will also criticize the fact that I cannot buy a plastic $20 impeller which is easily removable. I have to buy the whole motor/pump. Grrrrrrrr PKN
  4. I was surprised that I got this red tailgate picture and warning beep - all it was ...the dog blanket in the back caught in the latch area. It didn't even seem enough to stop the tailgate from closing all of the way but clearly enough to make the sensor think the gate was not shut. A minor latch adjustment might solve your problem. Also check inside the latch area to make sure nothing has dropped through the sprung trapdoor around the latch Steve
  5. I spent a long time chasing a similar problem for which my Durametric was of little help. It turned out to be the front O2 sensor which is a bear to change out but relatively inexpensive. If you have over 100,000 miles on the car, I would swap them out anyway Steve
  6. Does anyone know of a source for the impeller for the smog pumps? It seems a shame to replace a perfectly good pump because the plastic impeller disintegrated, I also need to replace or repait the check valve for bank 2 which is stuck open. Any tips to be had? Steve
  7. Its a 2006. The headlight washers certainly work. I just have no sound at all from the windshield washers. I assumed it is a separate pump Steve
  8. My guess is that you caused a major vacuum leak when you swapped out the coolant tank. Take a look at the vacuum hoses starting at the air filter and work back. They have a habit of getting brittle and breaking. I changed all of mine out with rubber vacuum hose. I even had to tap and replace the connector at the air filter housing which had broken off. For this I used a brass connector threaded at one end and a barb at the other Steve
  9. I tried swapping the fuse. The pump is totally dead with no sound at all. Is this an easy thing to replace or at least check out? Many thanks Steve
  10. I disconnected the plugs and cut the plastic mount off the rear of the housing. reconnected the plug (very tight fit) and wound the light in. Before I did this, the connections would not engage properly and I had all kinds of error codes and light problems. How any engineer could think it is a good idea to use rails to locate a multi pin plug defeats me. I have had no problems at all since making this quick mod... Steve
  11. OK - I found the problem. The smog pump on the drivers side had ingested what looks like a foam filter and stripped most of the plastic vanes off the impeller. The vanes then jammed the motor. I am checking to see if the impeller is available separately, if not I will need a replacement pump. I put it back without the impeller for now and cleared down the error code Steve
  12. I think I might have a bad connection at one of the two air pumps. The pump is also very noisy when it does run....I can reset the engine light and it is OK for a while then comes on again. Any idea what I should check? Steve
  13. I am with Wizard on this. Try attaching a clean separate ground. Also remove plugs and see if she will turn over then Steve
  14. Looks like 5 years is as good as it gets with these. I note that later Cayennes used external struts. Has anybody fit a pair of these to a 9PAI model and if so, what was the outcome? If they weren't such a poor design to start with and expensive to boot, I wouldn't be asking Steve
  15. Sure enough it was the driveshaft. I ordered a full unit from Coloradodriveshaft and it got here in just 4 days complete with a return shipping label. It was a breeze to fit taking about an hour each way. Total cost just $350 and it is fully balanced. Great guys and great service. I recommend them. I also recommend buying a four post lift if you don't already have one ! Steve
  16. The cardan shaft has been replaced over 50K miles ago and the noise has JUST started. I thought I had a flat tire (right rear) but when I backed off the loud pedal, the noise went away. I can see no obvious problem under the car and if I accelerate slowly, I don't get the noise. I did get under the car and there is quite a bit of movement in the center bearing of the cardan shaft (maybe quarter inch in all directions) but I am not sure if that is normal. I would have suspected the center bearing except that the noise seems to be coming from the right rear wheel and NOT the front console area but I know sound can travel in strange ways. My TT has done over 113000 miles and I have replaced all of the usual stuff - coolant pipes/T's, oxygen sensors, coolant tank, plug packs, brake rotors, cardan shaft (warranty by PO). She runs like a champ and goes like a scalded cat except for this latest issue. What is the opinion of this august group and if it is the cv joint, how big of a deal is it? One last point, I have had a strange smell - like cat pee - which started around the time I mounted new tires. When I sniff the warm tires it isn't there. Is this coincidence or could it be wear in a joint somewhere? Steve
  17. I installed my iTronic BT unit with iPod interface years ago and have just changed my phone. I cannot remember how to set the pin in the iTronic unit to pair my new phone and the company is apparently out of business now. Can anybody jog my memory on how to do this? TIA Steve
  18. rpcc - where are you situated? cold weather will force a start in first and may also account for jerky shifts while cold. Even here in Florida, my car will start in first if the temp gets below about 55 at night Steve
  19. I finally got around to replacing this O2 sensor yesterday on my 06 TT. I was very fortunate to have my very skinny son to help me because otherwise I would have been towing her to the dealer. I removed the plastic trim covers at the rear and side of the engine bay, removed the clip holding the sensor wire to the exhaust manifold and disconnected the old sensor from the bulkhead connector. I bought a short O2 sensor socket from Autozone and after wiring on a universal adaptor (because it would not stay on the end of a long socket bar) I was able to loosen the sensor from above the engine bay but had to extend the wrench with a couple of feet of copper pipe I have for these circumstances. The socket is a little strange to look at. It has a lug welded on one side, with a 3/8 square hole through it so when turning, the force is on the side of the socket rather than the middle but it did mean the socket is short enough to get through the miniscule gap between engine and heat shield. The odd shape, also means that the socket has to be re-positioned after only one flat. Getting the old sensor out was fairly straightforward from this point as I was able to use the attached wire to twist it out after a couple of threads. The new - and presumably old - sensor is coated with anti-seize paste which made life a lot easier. WARNING - never use the wire to assist installation as it can easily be damaged! Putting the new sensor in is much more involved as there is no clearance to get the sensor thread started in the hole. I tried removing the wheel but there is no gap behind the liner to get to the hole. The gas suspension leg is in the way. I then removed the belly pan and found that I could just about touch the hole for the sensor and was able to poke it in from underneath while my assistant lowered it from above. My son has skinnier hands and arms than me and was then able to get under the car, reach up and around the cat far enough to start the thread which is thankfully quite short. The socket finished off the job from above. In total. the job took me about three hours and a lot of cursing. It looks to me as though a dealer would have needed to remove the exhaust system to do this job. The good news is that my error codes have disappeared and I no longer see any misfires on the Durametric. I hope this helps some other poor soul who might be considering a change of this O2 sensor. It looks as though the other three are relatively easily accessible. On the advice of a forum member I bought the Bosch wide band sensor online at less than one third the cost from Sunset with free delivery Steve
  20. I have a 2006 Turbo. All usual stuff done including coolant pipes, T pipes, coolant reservoir, brakes, cardan shaft, coil packs. 103K miles. Mail me offline Steve
  21. Thanks all. Ordered online for $75 and free shipping Vs $205 from Sunset. Apparently Porsche does not support "aftermarket" items. Lets hope it fixes my perpetual random bank2 misfire problems.... Steve
  22. A quick and cheap check is to buy a 134A top up can from your local store and add some to the required pressure. My Cayenne lost AC driving through Georgia last summer. I topped up the refrigerant and she has been fine ever since. Of course, my car has over 100,000 miles on her Steve
  23. Also check under the Y air intake. It is very easy to get the vacuum connection under there to hit the fan..... Steve
  24. Does the Bosch 17174 have the same plug on the end or will I need to change it? Steve
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