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hahnmgh63

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Everything posted by hahnmgh63

  1. I'd say that would be ballpark but if it appears in great shape and came with all records then that would definitely raise the price.
  2. The Bearing itself doesn't fail, it is the rubber support that does the cushioning around the bearing that fails. Also, if you run the codes the engine mount should give you a code if it has failed as it is monitored also.
  3. Keep in mind the difference between slotted and cross drilled. The cross drilled Porsche sometimes uses is cast in when the rotors are made relieving stresses whereas most aftermarket (aka cheaper) rotors are regular rotors that are drilled after the fact introducing stress areas that can cause cracks. Slotting does much the same as cross drilling without the cracking and true quality cross drilled rotors are more expensive.
  4. I'll start with saying I like my EBC Yellows and they are cheaper than OEM and dust slightly less. I've heard good about Hawks and have used them on other vehicles but not the Pig. As for Rotors, you do know at slow braking speeds slotted rotors will give you more noise but the Pig is has pretty good sound insulation. Only go with a good name brand I would say, OEM rotors are good too and a known quantity/quality. For the Hawks I think the Ceramics or the LTS pads would be a better choice over the HPS.
  5. 18~19mpg on a long highway trip, full tank average. In mixed 25/75% city/highway mix I get around 15~16mpg. '06 CTTS with Eurocharged tune and Fabspeed Secondary Cat delete pipes.
  6. The '03 through '06 CTT pipes are all the same. Not sure on smog depending on your state. My CTTS passes smog in WA with the secondary Cats deleted, running on only the Primary Cats. Their isn't a state out there that can go to the depth of an EPA cycle for smog but many do varying (or no smog) levels of testing. Only 4 counties in WA state do testing, not a statewide requirement and supposedly going away completely in 2 yrs. Some states do a tailpipe sniff, some do it on a dyno, some only read your OBDII codes, some don't test...
  7. Fabspeed does also make a Downpipe which replaces the front Cats too but removing the Downpipes is a royal Pain in the A%$. Milltek probably makes a set or would do a custom set of downpipes too but like I said, the install is 5 times the work of doing the Secondary Cat bypass pipes.
  8. Looks like the Milltek pipes are a slip fit in the rear to their rear exhaust, similiar to OEM but it may be a different diameter. I have a set of Milltek Catless downpipes for my Audi RS6 and they are about 1/4"~6mm larger than OEM and also meant for their own rear slightly larger pipes. Since Milltek are somewhat a local (UK) company you may want to call them. They have excellent quality, as good as any and better than most. Otherwise you could see if their is a Fabspeed distributor around but in the UK I doubt they could compete with Milltek.
  9. I don't think Porsche say's to do the tranny until about 160,000miles. Most believe in doing it much sooner. Some transmission builder say that if you wait too long sludge will build up and after a certain point it is better not to do it as fresh fluid will loosen the sludge and it may cause extra valve body wear or plug up some of the small ports in the valve body. I haven't seen a Cayenne (Aisin) tranny with high mileage so no idea how it would look. I do know that at 50K my tranny fluid smelled a little worn and dirty. I don't think I drive it any harder than the next but it is a '06 CTTS so maybe it's a little harder on its fluid than say a CS? The guy above from Revmax (assuming he is from Revmax torque converters) is saying every 30K for and fluid change. I plan on keeping my CTTS for a while and use the same fluid (Redline D4) in my Audi and my girlfiriends so I bought a 5gal pail of it so I probably will do it again in about 30~40K.
  10. These Oil discussions can and do get a little heated every time. I am a Redline user in all of my vehicles (well not my '84 F-250 Diesel, can't afford the 3gallons at a change) but the important thing here is to change it no later than the manufacturers spec and in many cases earlier. I think Porsches 20K oil change has been shot down by Oil analysis, unless you only want to keep it for 50~100K. I don't want to step in and be the second car owner of a Porsche that only had two oil changes when I pick it up at 55K. I think a top quality synthetic gives you a little extra margin if you do run your oil a little longer or drive a little harder on it. Do you think Porsche wants your car to go 200K? If they (Porsche's) recommendations are so good then why do we have 50K drivelines, 5~7yr plastic Coolant pipes, Cylinder scoring (CS), IMS failures (911, Boxster, Cayman), etc... We all love our Porsche's, that's why were on here. I think OEM fluid's, although very expensive, will get you through the life of your vehicle, especially if you change them more often. I am just one that personally feels that changing it a little more often and using a Superior oil is extra insurance. Scott C, just choose a top quality oil that meets the spec or go with OEM too, but please change it a little more often than recommended and you'll be fine. If you track or tow then it definitely needs to be changed more often. You can search the site here and you will find many, and I mean many oil discussions. If your still interested try searching 'Bob is the oil guy' and check out that site.
  11. Did you go for the full Cat Bypass pipes or just the Secondary Cat Bypass pipes? I just did the Secondary Cat Bypass pipes and it is only slightly noticeable, and improvement but not much more sound.
  12. Fuel pumps is one that I haven't done on my '06CTTS with 65K so far. I had 98K on my '05 and they were the original, I was probably traveling on borrowed time on the '05. Fuel pumps will probably be a project this year. With two of them it may or may not leave you stranded I guess if you know what fuses to pull to kick the other one on but who wants to chance it. Seems like Bosch parts in older Porsches, Audi's, Beemers lasted forever but nowadays they sure don't. I know BMW has had a big recall in much of their 3 series cars for bad fuel pumps. At least O2 sensors seem to still be fairly reliable.
  13. A top quality synthetic 75w-90 gear oil for the front & rear diffs, I use Redline. For the transfer case a ATF meeting Esso LT71141 spec, I use Redline D4 but their are many fluids meeting this spec, go with a fully synthetic one. For the manual trans you could try the VW dealer and see if they have Burmah BOT 338 => VW Oil No. N 05279800, it is Esso 304. A good quality synthetic 75w-80 gear oil which will probably be GL-4/GL-5 spec. Stay away from a conventional gear oil with the GL-5 spec as it may have too much Sulfur or a non-neutralized Sulfur which will be hard on the Synchros. If you like Redline you may want to call them but probably their MTL or MT-90 is the one you would want. Back to the rear Diff, normally as listed it would be the same as the front but the locking diff requires a friction modifier or Redline 75-90NS instead the plain old 75-90. Remember, the tranny is a 75w-80, not a 75w-90. Not a huge difference but probably would be noticeable in a cold climate and once again cause extra synchro wear. P.S. I only listed the VW part # for the tranny (6MT), the front & rear diff is Audi / VW Oil No. N 052145000, with rear locking diff Audi/VW Part number G 052 196 A2. Also, my Audi RS6 calls for the same front & rear diff fluid with the center diff calling for the Burmah SAF Carbon. I have been using the above listed Redlines, 75w-90 in the front & rear diffs and Redline 75w-90NS in the center diff for 7yrs and 60K miles only about 3yrs and 25K in my '06 CTTS.
  14. What Loren said. I would at least get it to the dealer for a check of the transmission level and/or a fluid flush unless you think you are up to the task? If you have Durametric it isn't too difficult to do.
  15. What Pkscheldt said about the Torque arm on top of the engine is spot on. On both of my Turbos the bushing had failed by 65K. Didn't make any noise but under close inspection you could see the deterioration in the bushing.
  16. I have the Michelin Latitudes (295/35-21) on 21" BBS wheel and love the tire, handling, wet traction, braking...but the $550 price each and short tread life is a killer. Stay away from 21", 20" & 22" tires are cheaper and more choices. With that said, on the OEM 20" wheels I also have a set of Hankook AS RH07's (275/40-20) which have pretty good tread wear and for the price are a great all around tire, they are considered an all season so pretty good in the rain, about $215 per tire.
  17. All good ideas but....most of the items mentioned are things that start to go slowly and give you signs of failure, and most don't hurt the motor. O2 sensors are a replacement item and will default to a rich rather (safe) rather than lean condition on failure and throw a specific code (which is not to say don't replace by 100K, I have all 4 in my shop waiting to go but only 70K on my CTTS so I'm going to wait). Coolant cap-replace the whole resevoir as they tend to be a common failure after 7 or 8 years (new one comes with a new cap). CV's & Wheel bearings and suspension bushings almost always give signs of failures (Clunking or groaning CV's. Groaning/wining for wheel bearings, squeaks or clunking for suspension bushings). Now Water pump and thermostat can be one of those things that go on and on or can fail in short order and leave you stranded. But the sooner you do them the sooner the clock is ticking for next time along with something as simple as the Serpentine belt (always replace the tensioner or no more than two belts to one tensioner replacement) can leave you stranded. As for longer life in general. Change your oil on a regular interval (shorter than 10K in my opinion with a top quality Porsche approved A40 synthetic, also change the fluid in both differentials, transfer case, and transmission. You've had the Coolant pipes done which means you have fresh Coolant, how long since you've had the Brake Fluid flushed? Porsche says every two years (one of the most important and most overlooked components). These items above will lengthen the life of the major parts, the items in the first paragraph are regular wear and replacement items. Also, always use a Top Tier gasoline, Shell, Chevron, etc... Also, enjoy your Pig, drive it hard sometimes, but after a hard drive always go easy for a few minutes before shutdown or let it idle for a minute or two to let the Turbos and engine cool down a little before you shut it off. The Turbos have an electric waterpump to help on a shutdown as I just described but you are doing them a further favor by idling them down, we call it a Cool Down Lap at the track. You will find varying opinions on both.
  18. Congrats on the fix. You can get an OEM Bosch sensor from the aftermarket industry for less than $100. Exact same as the one in the Porsche box but in a Bosch box, same sensor, same plug. Food for thought next time. Front sensors are Bosch 17174 (5 wire wide band) about $100, rear are Bosch 16498 (4 wire) about $130.
  19. Your at least level B and probably already level C (the latest for PCM2.1). You can check with the dealer but I think the Nav disc still comes in a 3 disc set. One to upgrade the PCM, one to update the Nav drive (under Passenger seat), and one that is the new Nav maps, POI's, etc...
  20. Some people will say only go with the Porsche "N" spec tires. I'm not one of them. The "N" spec does mean that Porsche tested the tires for the car but doesn't mean they are the only tires. One thing you DO need to watch for, is that the tires are XL rated (for weight), the Pig is heavy.
  21. Well, for the Suncoast link for the PCM2.1 it looks like a 2013 disc. Hope that is real. I was afraid Porsche had given up on us.
  22. That is the one I have and it say's 08/2009, commonly known as the 2010 disc. I don't think Porsche has done an update since then? Anyone? I think PCM2.1 is about to go the way of PCM2.0
  23. I would take Loren up on his offer. Kind of cool knowing all of your options. Also, in the trunk under the floor where the Bose Sub or spare tire is located is a options sticker listing all of your options, and if you have the whole original manual kit the same sticker should be in one of the books, the Mx book I think, can't remember which one.
  24. The number is coded in the VIN. What is your VIN? The 10th digit of the VIN should be a 5 (2005) or 6 (2006). Also, the emissions tag under the hood should list what model year it is.
  25. Could be the amplifier but sometimes a problem with the MOST fiber optic bus will give those errors. Check the connection. It should be the plug with the two Orange wires going into it.
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