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hahnmgh63

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Everything posted by hahnmgh63

  1. First need to determine if it's oil or Coolant. With some on your finger run it under warm water for a few seconds, if it's Coolant it should almost totally wash off, if oil it won't. If oil it must be transmission fluid, most likely from the front cooler or even more likely from a line going back and forth. On the V8's I think those lines are on the left side though. Hard to tell where it is coming from after it's driven as the air stream can cause any loose fluid to fling all over. Try to wash a little under there with "Gunk" from an Autoparts store, let it dry, then start it up and see if you can tell where it's coming from. You don't want your tranny to get too low on fluid and it isn't easy for a DIY to do unless you have the right tools and a computer with the Durametric program.
  2. I'm assuming it should be in the same place as a V8, on the rear right side of the engine compartment beneath a removable plastic cover. Just behind the Blue Windshield washer bottle filler. The cover should be right up against the firewall. All of the plastic trim pieces can be removed fairly easily. Look for any fluid dripping down on top of the fender and running down the side.
  3. Could be a few different things but Purple or Pink could be a Coolant leak. You don't say what year and model but I take it from the pic that it is a V6? After a few years the Coolant Reservoir is known to fail around the seam and start leaking. A few drips at first then a fair amount in a short time. Could very well be leaking above and dripping down on top of things.
  4. Just wanted to check. I just looked at the 9PA .pdf and it looks like replaceable bushings are only available for the lower control arms. Are there any any replaceable bushings available for the upper wishbone (control arm)?
  5. I've got to do this too. If the Ball Joints last then the Bushings alone will save a lot of money. Maybe a project for this Winter.
  6. I'm using EBC Yellows with no noise. Make sure you do a proper break-in with 60~70 to 10~20mph stops without coming to a complete stop. Do about 3~4 of them fairly aggressive. You might try that with the pads you have now before trying another brand. One thing about the EBC pads, don't buy the Reds, just the Yellows. Reds don't have the heat tolerance that the heavy Cayenne can generate.
  7. I've also got a '06 CTTS and it reacts just like you say. Short commuter trips (22mi each way) and it uses a fair amount of oil. Drive a long distance and almost no useage. I've heard similar results from other CTT owners so it is fairly normal.
  8. I run Durametric with the ignition in the "ON" position and engine "OFF" unless I'm trying to log some data that I need the engine running for. I do run Durametric on Win8.1 with no problems. I would copy those codes then clear them and just like PIWIS, I don't run Durametric without a Battery charger on the vehicle even though I have a fairly new battery you can see power load errors rather quickly. The Pig is hungry for Electrical power too, not just Fuel :)
  9. As mentioned the Lawyers won and we (the consumers/owners) lost. I have an '06 Turbo S and a decent shop out back so I chose to purchase the parts from Porsche and did the work myself so I won't get a dime from Porsche since I didn't use a dealer or shop that I can show a receipt for the repair. I'm going to keep my Cayenne but probably won't purchase another one. I was shopping for a 911 Turbo (997, 991) but now I'm probably going to go with an Audi RS car or Nissan GT-R. I think Porsche has lost my business. Look at what has happened on the 996 911's with the IMS failures. Anyone looking at a 996, Boxster, or Cayman in the affected years is playing Russian Roulette. Enough of my rant. I'll keep my old '74 Carrera for now and the old '06 Cayenne but a new or newer Porsche isn't in my future.
  10. Here you go: http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/porscheservice/originalparts/originalpartscatalogue/ just download the parts pdf for the 2007- for your Cayenne.
  11. I do see an error in that Tutorial. Step 19 say's turn off engine and re-install fill plug. You actually need to re-install the fill plug before you turn the engine off or much of the fluid you just pumped in will start pouring out again.
  12. Try to go to the Level Control Module in Vagcom and it should work if you have the newer version. The Audi A8/Q7 and the older Allroad all have a very similar version of the Cayenne/Touareg Air suspension. Actually, the parts and modules are all the same manufacturers, just model differences. I have both Vagcom and Durametric and use them almost interchangeably. The Vagcom works better on the Porsche than the Durametric works on the Audi.
  13. You may still need Durametric or Vagcom to clear the stored faults in the Controller to reset it.
  14. That sadly is the about the going dealer rate. On a part that was poorly engineered you think Porsche could try to give you somewhat of a deal or discount. You did well at 103K though, seems like most go around 40~70K. Yea, you could do it yourself and like was mentioned, you don't have to drop the exhaust, at least on the V8, not sure about the VR6?
  15. I agree. If you do a Durametric scan of the HVAC system you should see a code for which Servo or Servos that are failing. If you do the work or pay someone, since the labor isn't cheap do all (3, I believe) since the older ones fail regularly and you don't want to have to tear the under dash apart again. Supposedly they are improved parts but I don't know why my Audi's never have these fail and Porsches have them fail again since the parts look almost identical and the manufacturers are the same.
  16. Two screws if I remember right then you have to disconnect the lighter plugs and transfer them to the new one.
  17. bigbuzuki I would say at least here in N. America, if the Porsche spec say's it must meet JWS3309 and you use a fluid that meets that spec whether from Porsche or someone else or whether Synthetic or not then there isn't a thing Porsche can do to the consumer. It's a Consumer rights thing whereas a manufacturer can't force someone to purchase only their Mx products when others than meet or exceed that spec are available. Not sure if that would apply in the land of Oz but it does here. Porsche would have to prove that beyond a doubt that the fluid didn't meet the spec and/or caused the damage so the fluids manufacturer would most likely be liable if they had listed that their fluid meets or exceeds the Spec listed. As for the Synthetics in non-synthetic originally equipped vehicles, I have heard of those stories in the past but I believe with the more modern Viton and Silicone rubber seals and O-rings it isn't much of a problem nowadays. But I'm not saying it couldn't happen. My pig had about 38K when I swapped all of the fluids to Redline and so far, 30K later all is good and dry. Shifting is improved with the Redline over OEM but whatever the choice, I would definitely say to swap out the fluid much earlier than Porsche's 160K interval.
  18. For the transfer case the last Porsche recommendation was the LT71141 ATF which many synthetics can meet that Esso spec as well as the JWS3309 which is the Tranny spec. I used Redline D4 in both as it exceeds both specs. The newer VAG G052515A2 replaces the older G052162A1 for older and newer Touareg's. I'm sticking with my Redline but if you order the VAG part from an Audi or VW dealer it does come conveniently in a .85 liter container.
  19. You have an expensive car that takes expensive tires. I wouldn't chance it with my life or my families life going cheap. I would pretty much guarantee you they don't meet Porsche Specs and probably don't even meet DOT specs.
  20. Draining them is a DIY. Since Porsche chooses to use O-ring'd plastic pipes instead of slip-on Rubber hoses you should always replace the O-rings. If you can change to oil you can do this. There is a write up on it here or on Rennlist. May want to pull the plastic wheel liner and will need to remove the plastic belly pan that your remove when doing a Oil change..
  21. Do you have Durametric? If so clear the codes and go through the supension height calibration routine.
  22. Could very well be normal depending on if it has ever been drained. Usually/normally Turbo cars will get that Oil downstream from the crankcase ventilation system and only from the Turbo if there is a seal problem. With the extra system pressure from the Turbo charged engine you can get more crankcase oil that the air/oil separator misses. That is why Oil catch cans are so popular on Turbocharged and Supercharged engines. I plan on putting two on my CTTS soon. I have two on my Audi RS6 (twin Turbo V8) and one on my Audi tt (1.8t). They don't stop all of the oil but they do cut down on the amount passing through. Audi recommends to drain the lower Intercooler hose every other oil change. I'll have to take a look in the Porsche Shop manual to see if they also make a recommendation. If you can, spray some Brake cleaner up into the Intercoolers to get some of the oil film off. The oil cuts down a slight amount on the efficiency of the intercoolers.
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