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ar38070

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Everything posted by ar38070

  1. ar38070
    I do not know if you guys used the porsche ball joint tool. If not then it is well worth the $120 investment. Aside from not tearing boots, it makes disassembly effortless. You might try the junk yards for replacement arms, control rods, etc. You can usually get them for $100-$200.
  2. ar38070
    That is why I asked if you had removed the filter and fill cap. Next time you do it remove them and see if there is a difference. I would not worry about not replacing "all" of the oil. As I am sure you are aware, an oil change on a TT only changes 2/3 of the oil anyway (9 out of 14 quarts). If you are having to add some oil every now and then to keep it topped off, that is helping to "change" the oil too.
  3. ar38070
    Disregarding corner balancing then set the ride height to whatever pleases you. My guess on the rake is that the factory is trying to allow for the fact that under power the car will shift weight to the rear and the car will squat. The higher rear is to offset this. If you can put your finger in between the top of the tire and the wheel well then you are probably not too low (with regard to the shocks bottoming out). Uneven wear is more of an issue in the rear (as there is always more camber there). I would set the front to -1 and the rear to -1.5 to -2. The rears will wear out first. I would not use factory toe. The factory spec is about 0 all the way around. I would set slight toe in at the rear.
  4. ar38070
    FWIW. I did mine a month ago and had to put in almost 9 quarts. I checked the amount I took out as I dumped the oil from the catch pan into gallon milk jugs. It was over two jugs (which suprised me). I assume you had the filter and fill cap off and the engine warm. I did not let it drain for more than 15 minutes.
  5. ar38070
    There are actually two places to drain (not including the turbos), the oil tank and the bottom of the crank case. You get another quart or so out of the crank. If you did not do the crank I would not worry about this time.
  6. ar38070
    There was an earlier thread on the pros and cons of following manufacturer break in procedures with respect to oil consumption (i.e. piston ring seal to cylinder). Some people follow the manual. others recommended different break in procedures.
  7. ar38070
    Caster is not adjustable on a stock car so do not worry about it. Max out the camber in the front. You will only be able to get 0.5 -1.0 with a stock suspension. You can leave the rear alone or perhaps increase it slightly to between 1.5 and 2.0. Toe in front and rear should be 0 to 1/16". You will wear your tires unevenly. Without some suspension changes there is not much you can do about it.
  8. ar38070
    Is the part even available? If not you will have to replace the arm. Alternatively get some rubber sealant and cover the tear in the boot.
  9. ar38070
    From Car and Driver April 2005, p126. "For the first 600 miles, we treated the Evo like a cute baby lamb. That's because Mitsubishi tells us the break-in is a crucial time in an Evo's life. If you're kind for those first few miles, you will be rewarded with quicker accereration, and it will never burn oil, Mitsubishi claims. Less than a month later, we tested the Evo, and our self-control was repaid with a 0-to-60 time 5.0 seconds. Forty-thousand miles later, the repeat performance took 5.1 seconds. Also, we never had to add a quart of oil over all those miles. We've heard from owners who couldn't keep from cranking that tach to the far right as they pulled out of the showroom lot and now must add quarts of oil regularly."
  10. ar38070
    BMW and other marques may have approved or recommended tires. However they do not go out of their way to tell the tire manufacturers to mark their tires as "BMW approved" as does Porsche. Where does it state that the N-rating is for street tires only? Or is only because Porsche chooses to apply it only to street tires? Besides R compound DOT approved tires are legal street tires (Kumho victoracers, Toyo RA1, Hoosier S04, Michelin Pilot Sport Cup, Pirelli Corsa, etc.). If it is your preference to buy only N-rated tires that is your choice. There are many other tires out there that offer as good if not better performance.
  11. ar38070
    You did not specifically say what type of brake fade you experienced. Was it a soft pedal (bleed the brakes) or increased stopping distance (pad fade). If you are using stock pads you should first look at switching to a track compound like pagid orange. Also in addition to bleeding the brakes you may want to replace/upgrade your brake fluid. Porsche brake systems are more than adequate. You did not state your track experience. Novice drivers tend to use their brakes too much and too hard which exacerbates brake issues.
  12. ar38070
    The threshold is 4% per the PCNA website. I do not have the link but it is in one of the tech articles. The N rating is marketing. Not for $$$ but to make you feel special. Nobody else does it and you cannot tell me that MB, BMW, Ferrari, Lambo, etc. would not be doing it if it made any difference. Oh my god! I cannot put any R compound tires on my car and take it to the track as there are no N rated R compound tires and therefore they are not up to Porsche perfomance specifications.
  13. ar38070
    I would not worry about the oil in the turbos. When you take out the drain plug in the oil tank watch out. For me the oil first came out slowly for the first few seconds and then came gushing out.
  14. ar38070
    It wont effect the speedo very much. If you go to www.tirerack.com and look up the tire that you want to buy and check under the specs tab you can see what the manufacturer states as the overall diameter of the tire. For example for a Bridgestone S-03 a 265/35/18 is 25.4" and a 285/30/18 is 24.8". This is about a 2% difference. You have to check each manufacturer as though theoretically a 285/30 is a 285/30 there are slight differences from manufacturer to manufacturer. The porsche spec for tire size variation from stock is 4%. Some people have reported problems with ABS and PSM at the 4%. 2% seems to be okay.
  15. ar38070
    This is not the sleeve lengthening problem. That problem results in the breaking of things as one side lifts and the other does not. Your problem is that the top transmissions are a little out of sync. You need to take off one of the transmissions cables and spin it in the appropriate direction to line up the two sides. While you are doing this you can check to see if you may also have the sleeve lengthening problem. When you remove the cable you can check to see if the inner part extends about 3/4" out of the sleeve. If so then you do not have a problem (at least yet). If it only sticks out about 1/4" then you should consider replacement or cutting back the sleeve. If you can live with the 1 cm difference then you can also just leave it alone. If you only have to resync the two side it would take about 5 minutes.
  16. ar38070
    Unless they have changed their policy again, Costco will not mount tires not bought from them (at least in the CA Bay area). You have to shop around. Most tire places are pretty expensive if you do not buy your tires from them, $30-$50 per wheel. You need to find a small independent shop with the right equipment (Hunter). I have a guy that does it for $15/wheel.
  17. ar38070
    I thought you had all the tools to do this and that it was only going to take you a couple of hours. While it is not absolutely necessary, the ball joint tool, part number 9560, makes disassembly a piece of cake. Ball joint torque is 55 ft-lb, 18mm wrench.
  18. ar38070
    Also check it right after you turn off the car. For sure at that time it should be less than full. If it still reads full then you probably have a sensor problem.
  19. ar38070
    Rolling the fenders and putting bigger wheels on is also going to change the geometry. In any case, any geometry change is small or well within the limits of the car. As long as the wheel/tire fit, the geometry changes are okay. Even Porsche put 5mm spacers all the way around on the 550 edition.
  20. ar38070
    Why do you want to change it? If you have done other engine mods then ok. If not and it is working fine then I would not change it while the car is under warranty.
  21. ar38070
    Take a picture and post it.
  22. ar38070
    Ask Tony at TCDesign for a quote. 408-956-1526. He is in Milpitas or Rob Dietsch at Dietschwerks 408-735-9287 who is in Sunnyvale. Do not know how much they charge but they both do good work. Tell them I sent you.
  23. ar38070
    If you were able to remotely unlock the car then at least at one point the car had electrical power. It almost sounds like the alarm has faulted somehow and has shut down the car. This of course assumes that your car has the alarm. That or check the fusible link as 1999porsche911 suggested.
  24. ar38070
    You still have to take the wheel carriers off and put them back on. That is what takes the longest. At least an hour per corner.
  25. ar38070
    Batteries can develop an internal short at which point you cannot charge it. ubergeek. It sounds like the master fuse to me though how you could have blown it is not clear to me. Did the courtesy lights come on when you opened the door? Did the hazard lights work when you had the battery disconnected and the battery cables connected to your external power source? Both of those should work without the key in the ignition. If those worked with your external power source then I do not think it can be the master fuse. How powerful was the external power source? Was it another known good car battery?
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