ar38070

You can also get smoke when driving hard if the oil level is too high. Since the oil had just been changed it may have been that they put too much oil in when they refilled it.

RE: the coolant leak

If the blue cap is not on TIGHT (and I mean as tight as you can possibly make it) you will get coolant leaking passed it after the car is stopped. The light is blinking because the coolant level is too low. Refill the reservoir with distilled water and you should be fine.

Flatbed tows are expensive ($8 / mile) after the free AAA 8 mile tow  :o

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Subscribe to the AAA Plus service. You get up to 100 miles of free towing.

Porsche used to have a policy where they would do this alignment for free assuming the car had a noticeable problem i.e. tire wear, car pulling. If they are willing to do it as a warranty repair i.e. no charge then by all means do it. If the car is behaving normally then do not bother.

Or just disconnect the battery for a minute. Of course you will then need to reset the window one touch and the radio code.

That is pretty much the going rate. It takes 3-4 hours and you also need an alignment afterwards, that is another hour. If you have the right tools you can DIY.

18's are okay. Offset will depend on what width you get. 8's and 10's need about 50 and 40 offsets.

The oil change quantity on a TT is no worse then the NA cars, 9 quarts, as you cannot get all of the oil out of the system through the two drain plugs.

You do not need to change the small o-ring. That o-ring is pricey, $6, I am looking for another source for the next time I change my oil.

Watch out when you drain the oil out of the tank. On my car when I first removed the plug it drained slowly for the first couple of seconds and then came pouring out. Made a bit of a mess from the splashing.

Somewhere in the archives there is a picture taken at one of the SF Bay area DIY days that shows two guys twisting the shell back in to shape. When your top mechanism was broken, the clam shell was twisted out of shape. You need to twist it in the opposite direction. I would take it off the car and then with another person, one on each end, twist in whichever direction looks right. From the pictures it looks like the driver's side needs to be twisted in the clockwise direction looking at it from the driver's side of the car. Obviously go slowly. Apply a little twist, put it back on the car, repeat a necessary.

You take if off of the car and carefully bend it back.

If what you mean by manual mode is that the window only moves when you are pressing the button then as long as you do not just tap the button the windows will operate in manual mode i.e. press and hold the button until the window moves as much as you want then release the button. At least that is true in my 2002. It may not be true in a 2004.

On my car (98 boxster) with the key out of the ignition, unlocked, hood closed, no interior lights I read 100-110 ma. If I arm the alarm I read 125-150 ma.

On my car when you disconnect the battery, hook up the ammeter i.e. reconnect the battery, the car does not seem to wake up i.e. for example the trunk light does not come on right away. The ammeter reading is very low, 10-20 ma. You have to open the door or something before trunk light will come on.

I have relatively large hands but unfortunately, this car wasn't optioned with the thicker steering wheel. Where would be the least expensive place to acquire the stock, thicker wheel? I believe the airbag will fit both so I won't need to purchase this. Correct?

------------------------

Try the board sponsor - www.sunsetimports.com

------------------------

Last of all, I notice a slight rattle sound from the engine area when started cold. This stops after about 10 to 15 seconds. Is this typical? I assume it's either time taken for oil to reach key components or is a part of the exhaust sytem that quiets once warmed up. Any thoughts?

------------------------

There is a disturbing thread on rennlist about this:

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...ad.php?t=222546

------------------------

Thanks and regards,

Joseph

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I do not know if you did this but here are the bleed instructions:

1. Remove the engine oil and coolant caps

2. Remove the plastic cover that is under the caps

3. Lift the bow on the bleeder valve

4. Fit the protective cover (this is a plastic sheet that has a hole in it that fits around the coolant fill area and covers the trunk in case the coolant splashes out when the engine is turned on. You probably do not need this but the time I did it I used a large piece of cardboard with a hole cut in it)

5. Top off the coolant to the MAX mark

6. Strart engine and warm up to operating temp at APPROX 2500 rpm. Briefly rev engine to APPROX 4200 rpm once each minute until operating temp is reached. This will take approximately 10 minutes.

7. Switch off engine and let cool

8. Top off coolant to MAX mark

9. Lower bow on bleeder valve, replace plastic cover, engine oil and coolant caps.

Ok silly question, I pulled the negative lead off and jumped the negative lead to the battery with the test light, then started pulling each fuse individually and putting them back looking each time to see if the light went out, should it have been the positive lead?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I do not know what kind of light you were using but there are probably several circuits active when the car is "off". So unless you pulled all of the fuses all at the same time the light would never go off. I would use an ammeter (amp meter) to see exactly how much current is being drawn.

I do not believe it matters if you use the negative lead or the positive lead. Electric current is electric current.

With the car off, the key out of the ignition, trunks closed, no lights on, the drain on the battery from the alarm system, etc. is about 50ma. Hook an ammeter in series with the positive lead to see if that is true. If it is more than that then you can try pulling fuses. However if you have a short some place before the fuse box that wont find it.

Hi,

      Not to start Flame Wars, but we can go on Point-Counterpoint all day.

      The fact is you have made a claim that using the 4417 plugs for 30k mi. had no ill effects.

      I stated that the plugs do not have the correct color for proper combustion, an ill effect in my book.

      Granted a sparkplug is a Snapshot in time, but this is the picture you have. Does the CEL issue explain it away? Plugs take on the effect of the A/F mixture near instantaneously and will change as the conditions do. If the CEL issue was corrected, this should be immediately seen in the plugs (within 5-10 miles). 

      All I know from the pic is that they are running Hot, perhaps due to a lean condition, perhaps due to improper Heat Range, or both.  Plugs have basically 3 classifications: Good, Fouled (Cool), or Hot . Neither you nor I can say that the plugs weren't that way all along.

------------------------

As I stated in an earlier post the car was running lean when the plugs were taken out and before the MAF was replaced.  Now that the MAF is fixed I suppose I can put the 4417s back in to see if the color changes.

------------------------

      Also, I am somewhat disconcerted that Porsche specifies a Heat Range for the various Models, Markets, Engines, etc., but Bosch seems to spec this plug to run the whole gamut, including many other engines and makes. I don't agree with letting the plugs go 30k mi., but that is debatable.

---------------------------

Then you must really disagree with the current plug change interval of 60K miles.

---------------------------

      So far as my source for the plugs, I'll dig out my receipt and forward the info to you offline. I think it was at Pep Boys.

-------------------------

Called Pep Boys.  They do not carry the FR7LDC4 either.

-------------------------

Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

While you can use any size tires you want, 986 sizes are about 5% smaller than 987s. This, at least according to Porsche, is outside the acceptable range for PSM and ABS.

Graeme, your tires fall within guidelines. The 255/40 is the stock diameter, the 275/40 is 3% larger.

So you can use 986s on 987s though 1) it will look a little strange as the tire fender gaps will be even larger than stock (shades of ghetto riders or SUVs) and 2) you may observe unusual behavior in the PSM and ABS.

I do not know where you get your plugs but they are $6-$10 each from the dealer. 

      I don't know why anybody would buy something as mundane and universally available from a Dealer and pay their markup. I just bought a set for @$2.

--------------

In California I have not been able to find the plug at any retail outlet (Napa, Kragen).  Napa does not list it as available.  Kragen say they might be able to order it and the price is $7.50 each.  What is the name of the store that you buy them at (FR7LDC4) and what is their telephone number so that I can order a bunch at $2 each?

--------------

Not that I am advocating an extended service interval but every 5K miles seems wasteful.

      Of course the 5k mi. change interval may be considered wasteful (that's subjective). I change them annually, it's most convenient for me at the start of the season (I live in Mpls. and the cars are run only 5-6 mos./yr.).  Winter can be especially demanding on a sparkplug which has to repeatedly withstand temperature swings of as much as from say 0°F - 850°F. In my view, going 30k mi. on a set of plugs may be as bad or worse.

-----------------

You cannot tell me that the temp swing from 0-850 F is any worse for the plug than 40-850 F that we have here in California.  Also plugs do not run at 850 F, they run somewhere between 500-900 degrees Celsius according to the Bosch website.  Other things like lack of fuel vaporization when cold may make life harder for the plug on startup but once operating temperature is achieved colder outdoor temps should not make any difference to the spark plug.

-----------------

From the FAQ at Bosch USA site: As a rule, Bosch recommends that you follow the replacement interval listed in your vehicle owners manual, however we highly recommend that you inspect (read) your spark plugs annually and replace as required, to insure optimum engine performance.

If the failed plug is "unnoticed" i.e. you cannot detect any change in performance then why would a new plug make any difference?

      You cannot be serious. The damage caused by non-combusted fuel to the O² Sensors and Catalytic Converter is Progressive and can take some time to manifest itself.  Also, given the rising cost of fuel today it doesn't take long to recover the cost of 6 sparkplugs.

     

--------------------

You cannot be serious.  If that much non-combusted fuel were making it out the exhaust with today's emission controls you would throw a CEL faster than you could stop the car.

--------------------

My original intent for this thread was to "refute" the less than favorable press about the 4417s.  I appear to have gotten 30K miles out of them without anything falling off of them or any other ill effects.  YMMV

      Again, that you know of.  But, as I said, the plugs (Bosche) did not have the proper color for a correct 14:1 Air/Fuel ratio (this is a very static indicator and doesn't change one plug for the other, or one engine for the other for that matter). You claim to have experienced some trouble codes - cause and effect?

------------------------

1) The trouble code was caused by a bad MAF.  It is hard to conceive how a "bad" spark plug could cause the MAF to deteriorate. 2) After the MAF was replaced the CEL was gone and engine operating parameters returned to normal.  So after 30K miles there does not appear to be any problems caused by the 4417 plugs.

------------------------

If the 7 does not indicate the heat range what is the heat range for the 4417 and 4403?  I cannot find that info on the Bosch website and the plug only has 4417 stamped on it.  As Bosch recommends these plugs along with the FR7LDC4 it seems logical to me that they are also heat range 7.  It would be nice if someone could reference a source of more definitive information.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I have included the Bosch designation code(s), but the Platinum +4 and +2 don't follow these guides, as you mention. I have sent an email to their Technical Dept. and will report back on their reply. See attached.

-------------------------

From the Bosch website:

A. To ensure optimal performance in your car, Bosch has tested each vehicle model and the various engines available for that model listed in the Spark Plug catalog or our web-page. Using a special spark plug with a thermocouple built in, Bosch engineers find the hottest cylinder in an engine and then test various spark plugs in that cylinder until the ideal plug is found. This ensures that you will always get the best performance possible.

Taken at its face value it would seem that the 4403 and 4417 plugs have been tested and found to be the correct plugs i.e. the correct heat range.

---------------------------

Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

      But, back on point, considering that changing the sparkplugs is possibly the cheapest, and one of the easiest maintenance tasks you can do to a car, why would you want to keep the same plugs for 50k miles? For only $10-$20 you can change the plugs regularly to insure everything is in top tune.  If on the other hand, you increase the Service Interval, a failed plug can go unoticed (due to a cracked Insulator or broken electrode, etc.) for tens of thousands of miles!

I change the plugs on all my Fun cars annually at the start of the season. This means they are replaced at about 5k mi. It's easy and cheap, why not be sure they're always in Top Form!

Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I do not know where you get your plugs but they are $6-$10 each from the dealer. Not that I am advocating an extended service interval but every 5K miles seems wasteful. If the failed plug is "unnoticed" i.e. you cannot detect any change in performance then why would a new plug make any difference?

My original intent for this thread was to "refute" the less than favorable press about the 4417s. I appear to have gotten 30K miles out of them without anything falling off of them or any other ill effects. YMMV

If the 7 does not indicate the heat range what is the heat range for the 4417 and 4403? I cannot find that info on the Bosch website and the plug only has 4417 stamped on it. As Bosch recommends these plugs along with the FR7LDC4 it seems logical to me that they are also heat range 7. It would be nice if someone could reference a source of more definitive information.

What's involved with replacing them? Just pull them out and pop in the new ones?

Since I track my car pretty regularly, I think I'll go ahead and change them.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes that is it. The dust seals cost about $10/caliper. They come in two different sizes.

Do a search on "cluster" or "kluster". It has been discussed numerous times.

I've heard and read that using cables can be bad on an elec system even when used properly.

What is the best way to charge it back again or start it?

Does Sears have a charger?  Something that goes through the cig lighter maybe?

Scott

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Follow the instructions in the manual to jump start the car or disconnect both battery cables from the battery and use an overnight trickle charger to recharge the battery.

After you have recharged the battery then let the car sit for 3-5 days. If the car starts fine then the battery is okay. If it does not then replace the battery.

If you need to replace the battery there are a number of prior threads on what will work.

I have some questions after reading owner manual boxster MY01. My 986 is MY99.

1. There is a illumination sensor on board to give accurate intensity to light board. My On board instruments only turns on when position light is on. Is it broken?

2. To turn key, fourteen warning lights turn on, but there is no light for luggage compartments lids.  Is it broken?

3. In owner manual, digital speedometer is under analogic speedometer, but my digital speedometer is in centre, just under tachometer. ... Is it normal?

4. I have been able to see a warning light turned off with "CAT" or so, in yellow. What Is?

:help:  :help:  :help:

Regards.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You need to get the right manual.

1. It is a sensor not a light. It reads ambient light and adjusts the instrument lighting accordingly. It is not supposed to light up.

2. There is no luggage compartment light. There are two blank spots in the warning lights that are not used. There should only be 14 lights.

3. Yes this is normal. Get the right manual.

4. It is either something that only lights in a real emergency or more likely, as it is not mentioned in the manual, it is something that Porche thought of using and then decided not to.

Does not the 7 in 4417 mean heat range 7? The Bosch site lists the 4417 and the FR7LDC4 (the stock plug) as equivalent.

Here is another pic with both plugs together. At the time that I took out the Bosch plugs I was troubleshooting a P1128/P1130 CEL, i.e. the car was running lean, which may account for the color difference. Both plugs are heat range 7.