deilenberger

A far as I can see - there is no rhyme or reason to when P comes out with new maps.. It seems they are getting less frequent as the cars they fit get older. I ordered new maps last spring, and ended up getting 2009 maps, at the time the latest available. I understand sometime this past year they came out with 2010 maps (in 2011!).. so it took at least 2 years to get a 1 year update (confusing?).. When the 2.1 was still a current unit - if you look at ebay auctions for disks - it appears they came out about every 6 months or so. Shame there isn't a "lifetime" subscription deal... they could even do it where we download and burn the DVD disks ourselves.. Tie the map update to the unit SN. Garmin does this on most of their units now - and for $99 total fee (or free in some cases) - you can go grab a new set of maps every 6 months.

End result looks nice. I don't think I'd wire it to the battery when there are empty switched (with the ignition) fuse positions in both dashboard fuseblocks.. (and there may be some empty positons in the under-hood fues block.) That would eliminate the need for the auto-switch device also. And with the current LED's draw - a 5A fused circuit should be more then adequate. BTW - the trick to using the unused fuse positions is: Unused fuse positons often have the FEED to the fuse connector installed. They do not have the connector for the OUTPUT from the fuse in place. 1. Use a voltmeter to determine if the empty fuse position is switched (with ignition), engine running on, or always on. Usually I'm looking for always-on or switched ones. 2. Strip back the wire that will go to the device being powered - strip it about 3/4". 3. Wrap that stripped part tightly around one leg of the fuse being used. 4. Insert the fuse so the connection with the wire on it goes into the empty hole, and the connection with no wire goes into the "occupied" hole. Takes about 30 seconds to do. I've been trying to track down the connectors used in the fuse blocks - but have had no luck. I may just have to visit a junkyard and look for a Cayenne or VW, and remove some of the connectors from the fuse blocks with a length of wire on them (which can be easily spliced to what I'm looking to feed.) That would be a neater solution. If anyone knows the PN for the fuse-block connectors, please pass it along. It baffled me and SunCoast when we tried to track it down.

That's rather ugly. One thing to watch - the Pensotin oil used is warned against contacting any of the cooling hoses in the service manuals - they claim it will destroy them in rather short order and suggest immediately cleaning them off with detergent and water. I imagine the serpentine belt may not like it either.

I saw that post/upload on Rennlist - but didn't see the emergency procedure to open the stuck lid.. is it there and I've missed it?

Working4it.. PM's may be nice - but they do not add to the community knowledge, so someone looking for this info in the future is out of luck unless they happen to attract your attention. Just a thought. This sort of forum seems to work best when info is shared among the entire community.

A rather common technique on BMW sunroof drains is weed-wacker plastic cord - it's stiff enough to push through the tubes, especially if they're hard tubes.

There are Porsche/Cayenne "compatible" Chinese ones on Ebay that claim to interface with the CAN network, but I saw no sign of the MOST network connections.. It does provide all the modern features in a touch-screen setup for around $500.. or claims to. Haven't heard from anyone who actually bought and installed one. Losing the MOST network wouldn't be a big loss since it's only used for the PCM functions/accessories. Of course doing this requires a complete rethink of the entire system since the amps are getting their signals from the MOST network.. so at a minimum amp replacement would likely be needed.

Since I see no way to PM you.. this has to get posted (which means someone else looking for the amp might well snag it from under you..) http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-Porsche-Cayenne-955-Turbo-Bose-Amplifier-Amp-7L5035456F-/350520069213?hash=item519c9fcc5d&item=350520069213&pt=Car_Audio_Video&vxp=mtr I know nothing about it, I don't know the seller (except he has a boat load of '05 turbo parts for sale.. sounds like he's disassembling one).. Certainly to me it would be worth the gamble.. same subassembly # as you were looking for - but a later letter suffixe - which usually means same item, later production (usually with some fixes from the earlier letter..) Good luck!

Might as well replace both. If one is crapping out the other side isn't far behind.. it's just waiting for you to button up the bad side and it will then give a big SIGH.. and die. Also - the color will be different between the sides (even with standard color bulbs - the color changes as they age..)

Anyone know if there is a way to adjust the auto-on-headlight sensitivity? Mine is now turning on in the middle of the day when it's overcast.. Anyone know which sensor it's using (the one on the back of the mirror, or the one on the dash, or ??) I do have a Durametric so I guess it might be worth hooking it up and seeing if something odd is going on..

Probably the sunroof drains.. they come apart in the C pillars. R&R of the trim panels is necessary to fix.. If this isn't fixed your woofer in the spare tire well will end up getting destroyed by water.

A friend who works for FedEx mentioned the other day that some thieves are following the delivery trucks around, and un-delivering the packages shortly after they're dropped on a porch. Do have to wonder what a thief is going to do with a mObridge.. you might ask the vendor to send it signature required next time..

It's entirely possible that no one in your Porsche garage has any idea how to use a soldering iron - especially to replace missing pins. They also don't want to be liable for a rework on their nickle (or farthing..) if it doesn't work, so they'll take the safe way out and replace the parts, not attempt to fix the parts. Only old time mechanics and owners actually try to fix parts.. As far as the hose coming apart - well - they should have looked. I'd open it up again and use some tie-wraps as hose clamps to make certain it doesn't come apart again. Electrical tape tends to come apart after time - especially if it gets warm or hot..

Ummm.. dunno if you noticed - but there is a pinned thread right at the top of the forum. One guess on the subject..

Have you checked the battery? Had it load tested? Also a chance the starter is beginning to fail..

It would be helpful to know year and model.. the engines are different (V6 vs V8 vs V8-Turbo).. And if you're a skilled and patient amateur with the right tools - sure, not much to it really.. at least on the V8's.

I haven't studied the Porsche instructions, but BMW uses the same Homelink setup.. and the instructions given by BMW were incomplete. I found complete instructions on the Homelink website. Basically - if you have a "learning" garage door opener - it has to be put into learn mode to recognize the new transmitter. I believe the usual Homelink receiver (mounted on the back of your garage door opener - with the little antenna wire hanging down) can learn 10 transmitters. There is a button on the receiver to trigger learning mode. Once triggered you have something like 30 seconds to go hit the button you want it to learn on the transmitter. I usually open the garage door, put a stepladder under the opener, then pull the vehicle up to the entry of the garage and leave it running. I then climb the ladder, push the learn button, climb down, run to the car and push the Homelink button I want to use. About 90% of the time this works first shot.. once the receiver learns that transmitter, they are then sync'd with rolling codes (change every time you use the Homelink.) I forget if the Homelink maintains the code when the battery is disconnected, but I'll find out today since SWMBO's BMW-touring is getting a new battery.. BTW - I did the Cayenne without even looking for instructions by basically doing what I described above. The waving around of a remote for the garage door opener is only for older systems that have a fixed code, and no learning mode. In that case, you're teaching the Homelink transmitter in the car what the radio code the remote sends to the receiver. These systems are easily hacked, and that's why there are rolling code systems. Trying to do this with a rolling code unit will have no good effect whatsoever.. you're wasting your time. Many of the old remote systems can be replaced with a rolling code receiver/transmitter for little money. Google is your friend to find out how on your particular system. Look at the receiver on your garage door - the "learn" button on mine is red - and easily spotted. Good luck! (And the wipers are working exactly as they are supposed to.. that "feature" is to keep them from turning on by themselves if you take the car through a carwash with the wiper in the auto-wipe position..)

Let's see if I can translate this: ================================================================================= The Cayenne engine controls (ECU) have an adaptation feature that adjusts it's parameters in response to your driving habits. Sometimes the adaptation can loose full opening of the intake throttle body due to a loss of synchronization between the electronic accelerator pedal and the ECU. It's also useful to reset the synchronization after draining/refilling of the transmission (the transmission functions differently with new oil). Here is the procedure to reset the ECU adaptation: -------------------------------------------------------------------- 1. Put the key in the ignition - do not start the engine. 2. Within 10 seconds of #1 - depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the stop 3. With pedal depressed, remove the key 4. Release the accelerator pedal 5. Put the key back in the ignition (without starting the engine) within 5 minutes of #4. This is necessary to recalibrate the accelerator and the pedal potentiometer. Touch nothing at all. 6. Start the engine without touching the accelerator pedal (only step on the brake to allow starting.) 7. Try driving and see what the result is. -------------------------------------------------------------------- ENGINEMAN - A friend from CAYANN's forum outlined the process. ================================================================================= I think that's the gist of the instructions. Gotta try this... :)

When we were doing my coolant pipes I looked to see if it was possible to R&R the starter without touching the pipes - and from everything I saw, it is. One bolt will have to be removed more or less blind, but once the bolts are out, it appeared that turning it and some wiggling, it would come right out past the pipes. I suspect that is the reason the pipes are curved like they are..

I think 'common' is perhaps not accurate. It's happened, People have reported this happening, but dunno how much of the reports I've seen are multiple reports of the same failure. Offhand - I can recall 3 where they appeared to be unique vehicles (not the same owner complaining on multiple forums in multiple posts.) I suspect the rumor might be that the cylinder wall coating wasn't up to the job... I believe Porsche is using nicasil or alusil on the aluminum cylinder walls. BMW had problems with the nicasil coating on early V8's due to high sulphur content in the fuel. They later went to Alusil and the problems went away. IIRC Alusil is an etched surface created by etching away the soft bits of the aluminum cylinder wall, leaving silicon crystals behind as the wear surface. Nicasil is an evaporated coating of metals - only microns thick, but very hard. FWIW - there are BMW motorcycles out there from the mid '80's that used Nikasil cylinders - running around with 300k+ miles on them, and the engines have never been touched. Did a bit of looking - the Cayenne V8 uses Alusil: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alusil http://www.kspg-ag.de/index.php?fid=209&qid=&qpage=0〈=3&query=cayenne Other Porsches may use Nikasil: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikasil

IIRC the instructions in the owners manual on checking the battery very clearly show removing the runner cover BEFORE trying to tip the seat back. It's a tad fiddly to get back on, but way cheaper then buying a new one whenever you check the battery.

Is the smaller fan running? AFAIK - that one is tied to the AC system, and is supposed to run whenever the AC system is active, which unless you press the "ECON" button on the control - is all the time.

Might be the difference between a turbo and an S - but my '06 S runs 180F under any and all conditions (including 110F ambient in the Mohave desert at 90MPH, climbing into the Rockies from Boulder CO, driving that LONG uphill run between Las Vegas and LA at 115F, or stuck in I5 traffic in LA - all with the AC keeping the cabin at 72F.) It stays with the needle pointing straight up. Oil temps about the same, I've never seen > 200F on the oil temp. If your temps are varying that much, or if it starts to heat up in stop and go I'd be very suspect of the thermostat. There isn't a lot else that could fail in the system if the fans are working correctly. I guess you might check that the AC condensor isn't plugged with bugs.. but other then that, it's a pretty simple cooling system and the electric fans take things like a fan-clutch out of the equation.

The valley under the starter is actually fairly deep, and can hold quite a bit of coolant before it spills over dripping down on the torque converter seal (and ruining it.) The coolant apparently dries into a rock hard like substance - and when it's really humid out and the engine is hot, it seems even though it dried up, it will give off a bit of a smell. I also suspect the coolant reservoir may be a problem point.. mine will stay forever at the MIN level (checked with a cold engine), but if I top it off to bring it up to the FULL level (top of the round thingie - takes about 8 Oz of coolant) - I'll get a smell until it drops back down to the MIN level (where it will happily stay.) I've given up on trying to keep it on FULL (or MAX - whatever..) I see new reservoirs on Flea-Bay for around $60, so that's on the get-around-to-it-list (right after I put a new radiator, and coolant reservoir in SWMBO BMW 5-touring..) Funny thing is - the system keeps pressure just fine (and pulls a very slight vacuum when it cools down, wonder if the vent in the cap is plugged?)

Just an update.. (since people rarely remember to do that..) A new fan fixed it. Tried to disassemble the old one to see what cooked, but it's sealed up very nicely. Lots of electrolysis noted around where the wiring goes into the electronic box on the fan motor. I guess putting the connector at the top of the motor seemed a good idea to someone..