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Everything posted by deilenberger

  1. I had the clogged drain - and it was cleared and still is. I've added cleaning it out to the schedule for replacing the cabin filter. That may have been about when this behavior started.. my iCarScan shows the outside/recirc flap is a bit slow to perform.. it does reach the desired position - but it fails the test for doing so (which apparently is position and time based.) My thinking was that perhaps this flap or the motor got wet and are binding up a bit, so I figured the biggest hole into the HVAC housing is the motor opening.. plus it would give me a chance to lubricate the motor bearings. If the flap was binding up (and the sound from the HVAC system sounds as if it's switching from inside to outside air) a bit - the control module may make it repeat the function until it gets it right, which could account for the repeated airflow decreases on startup.
  2. The footwell floods are quite common. They don't come up to the level of the battery compartment. There is about 1.5" of open-cell molded foam under the front carpet. Under that foam are big bundles of wires going hither and tither - that have splices in them. The foam gets soaked, meaning the bundles of wire are basically underwater, and the water creeps past the rather poorly sealed splices, and combined with electricity - cause electrolysis - basically converting the splices into a form of copper-dioxide. Which isn't a good thing. When they go wonky - there are all sorts of odd behavior that's been observed - especially if one of the bad splices happens to be in a computer data line. I'll see if I can find a thread to read about it.. it is an ALL Cayenne sort of thing. None of them are immune to it - from the first 955 up to the last 958. See: https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/1002135-if-you-re-thinking-of-buying-a-955-957-2003-2010-read-this-first.html Specifically the section entitled: 955 & 957 - Cabin Floor Flooding: Also see: https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/987845-help-my-floorboards-are-flooded.html https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/960439-how-to-ignition-lock-brake-proportioning-abs-light-psm-traction-brake-flashing.html Almost everything described in these threads (on the 955/957) applies equally to the 958. Makes a good case for parking it in the garage..
  3. Interesting. Can the motor regulator be replaced individually? I have a persistent error on the HVAC module, related to excess current draw by the HVAC fan. I can clear it and it reoccurs. The fan works fine - once it's started. It does start oddly. It starts at high RPM (and high RPM indicated on the LCD display) - then I hear flappers moving around, and the air velocity drops drastically for a second. Fan speed according to the display has not changed. After the second - the air-velocity increases again. It then may (or may not) repeat this cycle once again. From then on it runs normally. I tried to drop the blower motor to see if I could determine what was going on - but it foiled me on removal. The big-*** (tech-term) bundle of wires that pass beneath it made it almost impossible to get all the screws out that hold it in, and when they were removed I could only drop it about 1/2". Since it was getting late, and I was getting sore from standing on my head in the vehicle - I put it back together. Any hints on either? Regulator available as a part? Getting the **** thing out? TIA.
  4. Hi Richard, Well, I haven't been to Santa Cruz since June (by motorcycle..) if you wanted to drive to NJ - we could hook it up to my iCarScan and see what happens. The symptoms you're giving make me think the alarm system is reporting something unlocked - and letting you know with the funny door LED flash and the 4 way flashers. That's where a good diagnostics tool can be a lot of help - it can check each sensor and see what the body module thinks the state of it is. I'm going out to the garage to try something.. Back, lets see if I can remember what I saw: Normal operation - all doors closed, gas door closed - hit lock on the key, the LED on the door flickers, two chirps, then the LED flashes rapidly for 20 blinks (about 1/sec between blinks) then it switches into a slower blink mode (maybe 2-2.5/sec between blinks.) All doors closed - gas door open - same as the normal operation. It seemingly ignore the gas door.1 A passenger door partly latched - LED comes on solid for about 10 seconds, followed by pairs of blinks - about 1/2 second between the two in the pair, and about 2 seconds between each pair. So blink-blink, 2 seconds, blink-blink. No parking light flash, and no chirp. Drivers side door partly latched - it simply doesn't lock at all. What I didn't try is keeping the latch on the gas door from fully extending to the lock position - and my WAG is - that might be your problem. Since it doesn't care if the gas door is open or closed - it isn't monitoring the gas door position, but it might be monitoring the latch state of the solenoid that latches/locks the door closed. Just checked the manual - the rear body-control module is located "RIGHT SIDE OF REAR COMP" - but it has several outputs to the "TRUNK, TAILGATE, FUEL DOORS SYSTEM". Looking at the diagram for that circuit - the FRONT BODY CONTROL MODULE actually controls the ACTUATOR TANK COVER OPEN and ACTUATOR TANK COVER CLOSE outputs - which are interesting since there are just these two leads going to the TANK COVER ACTUATOR - no ground shown. That makes me think they reverse the voltage going to the actuator to have it open and close. The FRONT BODY CONTROL MODULE is located "LEFT SIDE OF DASH". The reason I'm zeroing in on filler latch assembly is - you hear noise in that area. There is nothing there that should be making noise. The rear body module has no relays that would click - it's solid-state switches - they make no noise. Something in that area is making noise, and the only thing I can think would do that is the filler latch assembly. It's located under the rubber and plastic surround around the gas filler and appears accessible without major disassembly. It may require that the hinge-assembly and surround be replaced if it's removed from the car. The manual isn't entirely clear on that. I just went and took a look at how it works. It's a spring loaded piston that rotates 1/4 turn between in and out. It engages and locks itself to the actual gas filler door as it retracts. When fully retracted some sort of catch keeps it that way, holding the gas filler door closed. When you open it - that catch releases, it pushes the gas door open about 1/2" and releases itself from the door. The lock on it must be when it's locked it doesn't release from the catch that keeps it retracted. Typical German complexity for what should be a simple device.. You might leave the door open and see how it works by pushing it with the locks unlocked, and then again with the car locked. If it's making the noise you hear - you might have found the problem. One other scary thought - has your vehicle ever suffered from the flooded footwell syndrome that all Cayennes are prone to? Given how the wiring for that device must run from that corner of the vehicle to the diagonal opposite front corner - chances are the wiring runs in the bundles that can be damaged if the footwells flood for any period of time. They're fixable - and could account for the problems the Durametric is having with communications. HTH, Don
  5. BTW - is the gas door locked when this happens? Just wondering if a failure to lock the gas door throws a failure warning that the vehicle lets you know about by dancing around with the routine you've described.
  6. Suggestion - find someone local with a competent Porsche diagnostics tool and find out what the codes are that Durametric won't read. I'd suggest iCarScan - but I'm biased - I like it a LOT more than my Durametric and find it much more competent and complete.
  7. My suggestion is - if one coil is on it's way out - all it's little sisters and brothers are just waiting for you to replace the one and then they'll start failing. Makes sense - the coils die because of heat - and too much current pushed through too small a coil (causing some of the heat) - and they live in identical conditions. When one goes - replace all of them. Throw a few of the old ready-to-fail ones in the spare tire well to invoke Eilenberger's Law of Spares: "You'll never need the part you have.."
  8. Loren - dunno if you notice - this thread is in the wrong section. FWIW - there are some rather lengthy threads on various Cayenne forum websites describing this fault on the 955/957 series - and some fixes. The problem is wear within the column control devices (magnets on shafts that move in/out of hall-effect sensors) - a few people have bodged a fix for it that doesn't require steering column replacement (Porsche's solution.) I have also heard of this happening if the wiring bundle under the passenger's or drivers floor carpeting has gotten water soaked and the splices within it corroding. This usually also causes other fault codes.
  9. Nowhere in the ebay listings I looked at did it refer to China. Some of them referred to Turkish made parts (which is likely exactly where the originals were made.) Did you actually see a reference to China in any of the listings, or was that simply an assumption based on the price? My WAG - someone at the company making the switches for VW/Audi/Porsche liberated some and is using eBay to market them. I can't imagine there is a big enough market for these very custom switches (different options and years result in different switch configurations) to be manufacturered simply as a replacement part - even in China. And the fact that parts of the switches are being sold (the buttons - which frequently loose the chrome tip) reinforces that WAG. YMMV..
  10. If the fill tube wasn't removable via the drain plug you couldn't drain the oil except by removing the pan.
  11. The probe on the digital thermometer - if inserted in the fill tube will be measuring the temperature of the air in the transmission.. unless you insert it while fluid is pouring out of the fill tube (seems rather messy.) I think plan B has more chance of success. And the temperature isn't critical to 1-degree.. nor is the level IMHO. Porsche owners do tend to obsess sometimes (I'm not innocent of this myself..)
  12. Even better - the switch caps are available - considering how frequently they break.. good thing: http://r.ebay.com/zId2iZ and these replacements are made in Turkey (which is probably where the original switch was made..)
  13. Dougg - interesting the iCarScan will do it fine with the 958. I think Durametric is really falling behind the curve on value and the diagnostics ability. At one time it was the only thing out there - no so anymore - and other options give more value for the money.
  14. Loren, if you have a Durametric or IcarScan tool you can read the transmission oil temperature directly with them. I believe that's how a dealer would do it..
  15. One of my laws: "You'll never need the part you have.." - meaning if you'd bought the wear sensor before starting the job, the old ones would have come out just fine. Had yours indicated the pads were worn? It looks as if once they touch the rotor surface and the plastic surrounding the actual sensor starts being worn away - they become much more difficult to remove intact. Or to install intact. They're the cheap part of the job - I just order them when I decide to do the job. Dunno what I'll eventually do with the old sensors that came out just fine and are sitting on the shelf.. :) I'm sure I'll never need them.
  16. If you want to swing by and pick them up in NJ.. sure. BTW - these sort of special tools - typically have a resale value when you get rid of the vehicle of about 75-80% of their new price. BTDT with lots of BMW special tools for their cars and the bikes. If I'm not using them - I'll post them on a forum FS list and they're typically gone in a day or two. There are a number of BMW valve shim kits that increased in price so much while I owned them that I made a profit selling them, had a bidding war going on.
  17. $32 is excessive? If you drop one of the calipers and rip the brake line out - the cost will far exceed $32. If you drop a caliper, rip the brake line out and it ends up on your toe - the cost will far exceed $32. You're going to save $300-500 over visiting a dealership.. and $32 is excessive? Reread what he said: "I found the pins somewhat redundant if you have another pair of hands to help" - do you have another set of skilled hands around?
  18. Does the icarsoft allow you to activate (turn on) components? If so - try turning the fan on at various speeds and see what happens, then report back. The most frequent failure appears to be the blower itself - and it looks like a royal PITA to get to, some fairly heavy duty interior disassembly required.
  19. I went looking for it in the wiring diagrams - and nothing in the battery-power circuits showed a manually operated switch, so it must be somewhere else..
  20. REALLY interesting. I never noticed the switch. I was easily able to see it by moving the seat all the way back and then popping open the little cover. Since I sometimes leave the P!G for a month or so at a time in the garage (out playing/travelling on my motorcycle) putting it in the storage mode has some real appeal. Plus it makes for a great theft deterrent. Cool beans!
  21. I have no idea where there is a switch that you mention. Can you take a photo of it? If it requires removing the seat - it's not happening. Have you done an entire system scan with the ICarScan? That should pinpoint where any faults are recorded that might cause the message you're seeing. It is worth doing a system disconnect/reconnect - if the voltage dropped low enough when you were in the process of swapping batteries that might account for the message you see. It may be a residual that clears if the car boots up with a fully charged battery.
  22. There is no "register" the battery on a Cayenne. BTDT spent a lot of time researching it. If you ask a dealer's service department the response will be "huh?" - they simply replace them. There is info in the Gateway on what battery was installed at the factory - but there isn't a tool capable of changing that information or adding to it. I tried Durametric, ICarScan (which looks like it has the ability - but if you go to write it to the Gateway is doesn't "take"), Snap-On and several other tools. Then I noticed that Porsche actually changes the charge characteristics according to how you're driving the vehicle. If you have it in non-sport mode, charge voltage is limited to around 13.6V. If you press the SPORT button, that voltage will immediately increase 1V. Doesn't matter what gear, what engine speed. The reason for this is fuel economy. They want to increase the corporate fuel economy rating for the EPA - which saves them gas-guzzler money, so they limit the load the alternator will put on the engine when you're in normal mode. Since fuel economy isn't measured in "Sport" mode - they can unlimit the load and allow for full charging. As far as your problem - I suspect your battery is only partially charged. Before installing any new battery it should sit overnight on a smart-charger until the charger indicates it's fully charged. A battery that doesn't have this done will likely never be capable of full CCA rating. What you might try doing is disconnecting the battery and charging it in place. Hopefully you DID connect up the vent tube to the new battery (I have the same battery in my '11 CTT..) Charge it up overnight and then reconnect it. See if the fault message goes away. The fact that the ICarScan couldn't communicate with your ECU makes me think the vehicle voltage is low enough that the modules have triggered low-voltage protection mode. They shut themselves down to prevent burning themselves out due to low voltage. You can display a voltmeter on the multi-display on the dash. It would be interesting to observe that.
  23. sAnother data point from another forum: Year Model Mileage Location AT/MT Fluid Remedy ForumUserName FIX WAS ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2012 V6 105,000 TX, USA MT Raveonl TF0870 Y ChrisFu Fluid Change 2012 V6 40,000 CA, USA AT Porsche OEM Y Steph280 Fluid Change 2011 CTT 93,700 IL, USA AT Ravenol TF0870 Y pastorom Fluid Change 2011 CTT 72,000 NJ USA AT Porsche - 63 Y deilenberger Fluid Change 2012 CTT 45,300 MD USA AT Porsche OEM Y BweSteve New XFerCase (Warranty) 2011 CTT 31,000 VA, USA AT Porsche OEM Y CarGuyNVA New XFerCase (Warranty) 2011 CTT 61,000 VA, USA AT Porsche OEM Y CarGuyNVA New XFerCase (Warranty) 2013 CS 30,000 London GB ? Porsche OEM Y Greenwich07 New XFerCase (Warranty) 2011 CTT 70,000 SC, USA AT Motul DCTF Y ktr6 Fluid Change 2011 CTT 69,500 TX, USA AT Porsche OEM Y Kricci New XFerCase (Warranty) 2013 Base V6 55,000 NC, USA AT Porsche OEM Y Qu4ttro New XFerCase (Warranty) 2012 CS 52,000 TX/KY USA AT Porsche OEM Y Mike 41 New XFerCase (Warranty) 2013 GTS 13,000 CA, USA AT Porsche OEM Y pburt 03 New XFerCase (Warranty) 2012 CS 53,000 IL, USA AT Porsche OEM Y Northshore911 New XFerCase (Warranty) NOTE: So far all the warranty TC replacements were done without trying a change of oil first - so we don't know if those Transfer-Cases would have responded positively to a simple oil change. NOTE: I'm discontinuing updating this table as of 5/2/17. The problem is I can't post an image to this forum, and that's how I'm doing updates on other forums. My hosting the image isn't happening - if the forum isn't interested in maintaining images in posts then I'm simply not posting them. Sorry. You can find the latest versions at: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/cayenne-958/287782-2011-cayenne-transfer-case-replaced-13.html or https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-958/986001-transfer-case-2.html#post14154622
  24. Adding a few data points from another forum - dunno if he's (CarGuyNVA) a member here, I don't believe Greenwich07 is: Year Model Mileage Location AT/MT Fluid Remedy ForumUserName FIX WAS ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2012 V6 105,000 TX, USA MT Raveonl TF0870 Y ChrisFu Fluid Change 2012 V6 40,000 CA, USA AT Porsche OEM Y Steph280 Fluid Change 2011 CTT 93,700 IL, USA AT Ravenol TF0870 Y pastorom Fluid Change 2012 CTT 72,000 NJ USA AT Porsche - 63 Y deilenberger Fluid Change 2012 CTT 45,300 MD USA AT Porsche OEM Y BweSteve New XFerCase 2011 CTT 31,000 VA, USA AT Porsche OEM Y CarGuyNVA New XFerCase (Warranty) 2011 CTT 61,000 VA, USA AT Porsche OEM Y CarGuyNVA New XFerCase (Warranty) 2013 CS 30,000 London GB ? Porsche OEM Y Greenwich07 New XFerCase (Warranty) Note that the bottom 4 did not get the oil changed to see if that would fix the cases - they were warranty cases (CPO) so they just got new XFerCases per CPO warranty.
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