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clarksongli
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Everything posted by clarksongli
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Cayenne Wiper Blade Refill So one of the things i hate most about our wiper blades are they are expensive and with the winters, they need to be replaced every year. So i figured let's take them apart, figure out how they hold the "insert" and replace just that. Similar designs are now used in Honda and Toyota, since the rubber insert is significantly cheaper and easier to replace than the whole blade. You will need: Flat blade screwdriver Sharp knife or scissors New Refills (can be found at several locations) -8th Author clarksongli Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Maintenance Submitted 02/05/2014 05:29 PM Updated 11/26/2014 05:41 PM
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So one of the things i hate most about our wiper blades are they are expensive and with the winters, they need to be replaced every year. So i figured let's take them apart, figure out how they hold the "insert" and replace just that. Similar designs are now used in Honda and Toyota, since the rubber insert is significantly cheaper and easier to replace than the whole blade. You will need: Flat blade screwdriver Sharp knife or scissors New Refills (can be found at several locations) -8th generation Civic DRIVER SIDE refill (you will need to cut down the refill by about 2 inches -Ebay (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.Xsilicone+wiper+refill&_nkw=silicone+wiper+refill&_sacat=0&_from=R40) I switched to silicone blades, they seem to last longer and leave a sort of "rainx" effect which allows for a cleaner windshield with better water beading. Step 1: Remove the blade from the car and locate the end which has the rubber portion "locked." Pull slightly and one will be fixed. Step 2: Carefully insert a flat blade screwdriver into the end. The goal here is to slightly twist back and forth until the plastic end cap comes out. Step 3: Remove cap and locate the metal "tang" on the top of the blade. Again insert the screw driver and slightly twist upward until the rubber section is free. Step 4: Now you can remove the old rubber blade and insert the new one.
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i'm glad the JB Weld worked out. -
from the pics it looks like it broke flush off....so it may not be possible to grip them with a set of pliers.....especially since the metal portion is so close to the plug wall. my only question is do you think drilling a hole into them is going to help?
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The issue you're going to have is the rubber boot inside the metal jacket is going to be "suction cupped" onto the spark plug. Only though is to get a long hex bolt (the bolt head slightly smaller than the spark plug hole). Put A SMALL AMOUNT of JBweld on the head of the bolt and carefully smoosh it against the broken piece. Let it harden and then carefully twist and turn.
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Test the FETs....the resistors are there to blow when the FETs go bad. If the resistors are blowing then the FETs are leaking current. To answer your question: From my understanding of the KESSY, all handle sensors are powered together (all or nothing on antennas). However, the buttons are NOT together. The fronts can work without the rears and vise versa. I haven't had time to look into the handle buttons much, but it does seem like a common issue with the older Cayenne's. If the handle sensors work then your FETs are OK, something else must power those handle buttons
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You only need to replace the one pump. Also remember, while they are both the same mileage, the second pump only runs when engine load is high, start up, and when the tank get's low. That being said, there is significantly less run time on the second pump. Change the filter, you will find it packed full of black stuff. I wouldn't bother with the regulator change, there isn't really a reason to suspect that the regulator has gone bad, and generally they never do. With all that being said....you will have to open both sides....so it will save you the 400ish dollars on a pump, but you will still have to open that side.
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Cold weather MPG
clarksongli replied to clarksongli's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Thanks, but i'm not really concerns about the air density or dT of the exchangers. The issue in cold weather is the car runs open loop fuel control for longer until the engine reaches temp. Compounded, we tend to let our cars run longer in idle in the morning to warm the car up before we get in. Finally, ATF becomes sluggish, and you will notice that the converter will let the transmission slip more at the cold extreme. Add all of that up, you got a car that runs less mpg than if the car was running on a spring day. my question is, how much worse are people seeing? for me it seems like several MPG.... For a 40MPG car, i wouldn't even think twice, but does that linear drop in MPG translate into a 17MPG V8? it seems like it does for me, just wanted to see if i'm the normal....or abnormal. -
So i've always got between 15 and 17 mpg during the warm months, but it never really ever got cold here in CT until this winter. There have been days below zero, which while unheard of, is somewhat unusual for the lower portions of CT. Anyways, what have you guys seen your MPG drop to with the cold weather? The CTT is my daily, so i leave it outside....cold starts, plus i have a ski rack on now. I see 13-14mpg. Unfortunately my commute is generally stop and go on the highway, so i never really get to see what it goes up to. Does this seam reasonable? I've always found it hard to believe that 15mpg is the EPA city rating, but maybe my CTT isn't running correct and getting bad MPG?
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how many miles do you have on the car? I'd wait....they don't just explode all of a sudden, you will start feeling and hearing the vibrations under acceleration first, so just replace it then.
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Agreed....i do believe all Turbos in 2004 came with air suspension, 2 speed transfer case, and locking FRONT diff. Rear locking diff was an option for all models.
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Winter tires
clarksongli replied to mikeymikey's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
DWS's aren't dedicated winters. I have the OEM 19" with Pirelli winter's, the car is basically unstoppable, i live on the top of a 700ft hill, i always have enough traction to get up plus enough to tow my neighbors as well haha. I'm not a Pirelli guy but it was what came with the wheels, and they are good. I've always liked Dunlops, Kuhmo's, and Hankooks. With the weight of the car you will go through tires fast.....i dismount mine until there is predicted snowfall......otherwise i drive my Kuhmo all seasons. Tire rack and discount tire direct are two good sources. Tirerack has a warehouse near me, so i tend to just order and pick up there. For wheels, look at craigslist.....i bought the 2 spare sets of wheels for my cayenne on craigslist.....for CHEAP.....got a set of 20" with Conti tires, which were good until i ran over some metal......for 200 bucks. People buy the extra set....sell the car and then forget about the wheels -
Codes are always useful, but here is my take.... no compression in a single cylinder can only be mechanical. the codes can help you figure out what happened, but at the end of the day you still have a mechanical failure. Long story short.....you will have to pull the head....or the entire motor. Not sure if you have tools or not, but here is what i would do: move #8 to TBC get a pressure tester, or take an old sparkplug and weld an air fitting to it install and pressurize to 5ish psi Take the oil cap off, if you can hear it coming through the cap then you blew a hole in the piston, ring damage, or a combination Open the throttle body and take the y pipe plenum off the TB, if you hear air from there, you busted up an intake valve. If none of that occurred, then it most likely is an exhaust valve. You MIGHT be able to hear it in the exhaust pipe, but it's unlikely.
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HARD shifts...
clarksongli replied to Stephtell's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
you can do that or you can measure the fluid temp with an IR gun or thermometer. As for heating the fluid, you will do it the same way dealerships do it.....turn the car on and let the tranny warm up itself. -
nope not normal. The MOSFETs control power to the antennas, so if one handle is working then it probably isn't the KESSY. Chances are you have a bad handle/antenna but without a durametric it will be tough to tell for sure. Congrats on getting the KESSY back up and running....I hope my PNs and DIY were semi helpful.
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yeah have someone actuate it while your under there....it should run for a few seconds....listen to see if it doesnt, or if you can hear it not making the full engagement. There is a position sensor and motor in the same assembly, so it could be one or the other.
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i reused the caliper bolts and pad pins....simply because they are non stretch bolts and i didnt order replacements. If you already bought them and cannot return them, then why not replace them? As for the pins....they will be a pain in the but to remove becasue they will have gunk all over them(see my DIY). Once you scrape enough off, you should be able to get them out....but clean new pins would be nice to reinstall. But short answer, do it if you want, but don't feel compelled to do so
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nothing special needs to be done to select high. but cayennes are full time awd.... if the switch won't switch it back then most likely your transfer case selector motor is stuck/failed.....crawl under there and check
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who do we contact to add ourselves to the list? i emailed the law office on the link but no response.
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As far as i can tell the FETs drive the power to the antennas
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i posted a DIY in common fixes and repairs. there is a link there FYI...these resistors sit across the drain of the transistors, if the resistors are blown, it's because one of the mosfets is bad. Translation, replace everything at once (2 transistors and all 6 resistors.
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Urgent help needed
clarksongli replied to virkdoc's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Doubtful. The ECU i just one of many modules that are both coded and tied to the immobilizer. Example 1....the locks are through the Kessy module not engine ECU....so the fob buttons will not work. Example 2....the cluster is tied to the ecu, so after replacement you would need to reprogram. you shouldn't need to replace the lock cylinder though.....they should be able to cut new key and program that new fob to work with you existing car hardware, should be cheaper than 2k -
No it does not meet they were replaced. Some have gone over 100k, some only 25k. The "easiest" place to see is in the back right corner of the intake manifold......there is a small gap that you can get a finger through to feel around.
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I'm not suprised these are from a chinese company.....again there are only a handful of rotor blank companies out there.....everyone buys from those companies and does "something" to them to make it their own.....similar for gasoline. That machining "gouge" is not normal......remember, these come out of a casting....so unless something really F'ed up.....there would be somewhat of a tight tolerance around the castings being the same.......i would ask about that slot (pretty big chunk of material cut). Also, there should be a left and right rotor.....the veins arc in the direction of rotation.....not sure how "required" that is, but OE type blanks are specific on the front.....even centric/stoptech brands. Finally, the internal side is generally always thicker because that side will generally see high pad pressure....on single piston calipers the wear difference is even more noticeable....sometimes as much as 2x. Bottom line......for a street driven car, OE spec blanks are good enough. Track cars, i run larger discs, but still blanks.....i approach the limit of the tire well before the head capacity of the pads. I see too many split discs from companies simply drilling OE blanks without fully redesigning the veins to compensate for the holes. Take a look inside.....are the holes supported, or do some of them simply just drill through and maybe even intersect with the veins?
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Dumping Cash
clarksongli replied to wjrez's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Personally i would keep it......but i do all my own work. Coolant pipes, brakes, coils, plugs, oil changes, suspension work.....basically anything not internal to the motor should all be easily learned. The question is do you have the time or not. I am fortunate enough to build my own engines as well, so it has never crossed my mind that i should take my car to a dealership, or even buy from a dealership. If you plan on just having someone else maintain the car then yes...i would sell it and buy a Honda. IMO, owning a Porsche/VW/AUDI is a hobby....if you just want something to get you from point A to point B, then a high mileage CS might not be the answer. You put the name Porsche on something, the service rate basically doubles or triples. Companies and Dealerships love sucking the Porsche customer base dry of cash.