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royxaxa
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Everything posted by royxaxa
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did you check the timing? i read somewhere if timing is off, it might cause misfiring.
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thanks a lot! i used Toyota stuff and so far so good.
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wow that sucks. i changed timing chain tensioner on my 04 CTT and the code does not come back as frequent now. still the angle readings are off big time. someone suggests using 5w40 instead of 0w40 i plan to change the timing chain and all the guides next week. 185k km now. VarioCam seems to be okay.
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brake booster faulty
royxaxa replied to TopGun2000's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
I had the same problem before I ended up using a regular coolant hose and 2 clamps. the OE one is not only expensive but also harder to replace. -
Hi guys I really need your opinion before I send the car to dealer. I hooked up the Durametric to my 04 CTT and have the following readings: Camshaft Deviation Angle, Bank 1 -13 Camshaft Deviation Angle, Bank 2 -5 Actual camshaft angel bank1 and bank2 was at -1 to 1 when car idles and the car has P0016 code from time to time. I read on the forum that the deviation angle should stay in -6 to +6 range. I replaced the timing chain tensioner today. It however did not change the deviation angles much. it decreased the angles about 1 degree. then I swapped the camshaft position sensor of bank 1 and 2. It did not change the reading either. That means the sensors are okay. So now, what am I looking at? replace the timing chain? new intake camshaft? Please help me with this. I do appreciate that.
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sorry to dig up the old post. what was the solution in the end?
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I too have the knocking noise. not as loud though. i thought it was quite common. at least most of the CTT i saw had this issue. more or less. :(
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Any one? I now kinda believe it is related to the timing chain, either stretched or the VarioCam, or just the tensioner. but i could not find much information regarding the timing chain replacement. it seems they are pretty solid pieces. somehow i did not see the "camshaft deviation angle" parameter on my Durametric, Only saw the camshaft Actual angle and the Setpoint angle(16.5). could anyone tell me what are the readings on your CTT for the setpoint angle and the actual angle? thanks a lot!
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well it solved the air suspension warning problem for me. and for $10 parts and DIY-able job, I would try it for sure. I think what happened was the pump was leaky and could not boost the pressure to the set point, this triggered the warning. new o ring solved the problem. BTW the compressor that I bought from ESCtuning included the O ring and the screws. but I think you still need a calibration as RFM mentioned. I saw a detailed calibration instruction online somewhere before but it is not a DIY job.
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some updates for the issue. and I still need your guys help: P1182: I put the fuse in F50 and I also replaced the PCV valve under the "TURBO" plastic cover. the old one that I have is not working : the check valve on the branch to intake could not be closed. It is really easy to check and it is like 2 mins job. after that no code comes back. P0016 I still have this from time to time. and I notice it always happens during the first 10 mins/3 miles driving. It never comes up after that. and after 3-4 driving cycles, it goes off. and it comes back in a day or two. I hooked up the Durametric last night and checked the camshaft actual angel of bank 1 and 2. I noticed that the bank 2 is at -1.00 all the time. but bank 1 moves around -4 to -6. I rev the engine to 2000rpm and then bank 1 came to -1.00 and stayed there. code did not came back. so if i want to do some further trouble shooting, what parameters should I be tracking on Durametric? and what are the limits for these readings? someone was suggesting that the chain might be a little loose. I really appreciate your advice! and happy new year :renntech: BTW it is a 04 CTT with 115k miles on it. I replaced all the plugs(except one), coils, pipes,T,new 2nd battery under the woofer,purge valve, PCV valve at around 100k miles. idle is a little rough. it improved a bit when I had the injector cleaned last week.
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I had the same problem and bought this compressor in the summer(after I paid $200 at the VW dealer for the ring and two screws and could not refund them). it was insane price i have to say. after replacing the pump everything works fine. I remember the plastic fitting on the hose is a little different from the old OE ones but easy to put in. make sure it does not leak air at the fitting. happened to me and i had to open it again once.
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wow i have the same problem with all the errors from durametric. but my keyless entry still works. i guess it is just the module fails to communicate with the scan. btw, where is the mudule and how do it take it out? thanks
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I checked the F50 fuse and there was nothing there. and according to my owners manual there should be nothing. I put in a 10 amp fuse and then delete the error code just to see whats gonna happen. after restarting the durametric, the code was not coming back! I did not re-start the engine since I was in the closed garage(I just pull the key out after deleting the code and put it back and turn to the first stop, hope that was the proper way to do it). I will plug in again after couple of days driving and see what happens. THANKS guys :)
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Thanks. So should I replace the pcv valve or the sensor?
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I have a 04 CTT piggy with 100k miles
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I had similar problem before on my 04CTT no signal from the pressure sensor(dealer could not find the part number for the pressure sensor). ordered this one and put it in. everything works now. http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Touareg_1--V6/Suspension/View_All/ES289283/ for 10 bucks, worth tryhing. btw when I got mine, it includes http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Touareg_1--V6/Suspension/View_All/ES414705/ not sure its a packing mistake. i think basically it is just a leaky compressor problem.
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I used Toyota IV for the transmission.and was surprised to see how dirty the pan was. I could only get around 6.5 liter in there but the transmission shifts very smooth. I used Mobil 1 71141 for the transfer case for the differentials, I bought the dealer oil. about $60/liter. the oil is thick. a tip that might be useful, we carefully measured all the fluid when we drained it. this way you know that how much was in there before. :)
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Hi guys, I need your help here: i really enjoy the 04 CTT and changed some faulty parts during my ownership including the coils, coolant pipes and the air pump O-ring. but the check engine light keeps coming back and it is really annoying(it however never shows at the system warning section on the dash, only the CEL light shows up sometimes). It would dissapear after couple of days and come back shortly. I got a chance to scan it with the Durametric today and get the following: P1182 Positive crankcase ventilation hearter output stage No signal/Communication P0016 Crankshaft Position-Camshaft Pos. Correlation Bank 1 Sensor A Short to Ground or Positive after I clear the codes and restart the engine, the P1182 code came back but not the P0016 one. any suggestion here?? I never heard of the P1182 code for the P0016 code, should I just change the camshaft position sensor? is it a big job or at DIY level? I do appreciate any feedback.