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pk2

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Everything posted by pk2

  1. To Lorens point, Is that book current? And to my point, is there any more logic to it's navigation? Thanks PK
  2. Yah, if you teach yourself Bit torrent you'll find it (sorry gotta be cryptic...just start googling). There's also someone out there wo sells if for $ 5. Big download/ Personally I've always much preferred factory manuals too. But this thing it a nightmare (to me). To find some subject you have to basically go through the whole book page by page. Headlight adjustments might be under the transmission section or something, more text and illustrations devoted to removing the cigarette lighter than to...say...the clutch. Love to see a Bently but never have. I've managed to stumble through some significant surgery though, with the factory manual. Good Luck PKt.
  3. No expert , but those are so far off i can't see how it could even intermittently run. I'd be suspicious of a sensor throwing out the wrong numbers. Maye a broken tensioner could make it skip like that, but what would make jump back and run?. I don't think a tooth would do it. I'd look for something dumb first like a bad sensor connector than look at the actual cam ends to see where there really at. This is complete train of logic. The next post we;ll speel out yor exact poblem. Regards, PK
  4. 2x wht98s, Don't know which would be worse but if you crank up the heater up a few blocks before you hit the dirt, you'll have added a 3rd radiator and fan which may drop the temp enough to drop turn of the radiator fans off. The heater is just another radiator with a fan (that doesn't blow dust off the ground). Regards, PK
  5. As jjamari implied, I'd be suspicous of your cold air intake. There is been plenty of sparing going on here on the subject. Half the world beleives they can gum-up the works. As far as the valve spring, I don't see how you would have any compression with a broken one. PK
  6. Here's a weird one, my wife's Lexus had a window with a brain of it own. Background. A lot of electric windows when hitting an interference back off in the other direction. My wife's window was just hitting a slight interference on the top and bottom causing it to ping pong up and down. What you can infer from that I don't know...car flexes, pressure on window, thinks it's interference, down it goes. Regards, PK
  7. I'd agree with Maurice. All road lead to Rome. The one thing they all share. Regards, PK
  8. To follow up on RFM's coment, I'd say the sensor that says the door is closed in latch assem. is flaky (or the doors aren't latched) or the works a re gummed up. Mine does that when a door is open. Theres probably a dozen threads on the topic . PK
  9. Do you feel any vibration, anything unique going on either inside or outside the car (wind rain,heavy throttle, 3rd gear etc... anything at all? Isn't that how it's supposed to work? Did you drive it together (service-person & you)? Doubling the weight could be plenty enough to have suspension or something nudge something out of the way What sort of noise? rattle. slow snap, knocking, droan, screech, clatter, can you tell where it's coming from? Is it at all related to the speed of the car or, the speed of the engine That one is fathomable. Anything that makes a racket is going to be break itself apart sooner or later and disappear. But you are loosing all it's functionality. Pieces of your noisemaker are scattered down the high way or still on your car but kicked out of the way. Did the boys put it on a lift? Even if its out of site, it probably left whip marks If the noise is gone and it's running well I don't think you have anything catastrophic. Big noise though is never good asap, have someone knowledgeable with the cars look it over but good, put it on a lift. even if the noisemaker is gone it probably left some marks on it' wat out. PK
  10. I just don't see how. I don't believe in predictable coincidences. It's almost an oxymoron. if I understand you correctly, ya hit a rough patch, something rattles an two lights on your dash lights flicker. It your senor the BEGINING of this CHAN of events? I don't see it. Its a third element that's rattling and grounding those 2 lights on the dash, well there right next to each other.... The abs sensor is way out there in left field. Regards, PK
  11. Gristy, I'd look for anything that the 2 circuits share. I think it's all down stream electrics. You could probably verify this by slamming the breaks during an episode and see if they are actually malfunctioning (doubt it). Rattle may or may not be directly related to the I.L.'s but since it's sympathetic, find it (ya, just like that). It may be some broken piece of flotsam flopping around around those circuits. My bet is that you have the equivalent of havering a light and a radio stuck into a dangling wall splitter. Punch the wall and the, the splitter rattles, and the radio is going to dance with the light. Regards, PK
  12. Ya can't really raise a car wirh jackstands. They hold the car once you have raised it with floor jacks. Like rob I usual us scraps o softish pine (2x4s). No jack ot stand is going to do any damage any thing if you place it correctly.You can also buy lite plastic pads that mate with the lift points. PK
  13. What Bob says makes sense, Cold + heavy gear oil will do exactly what your describing. And that is more pronounced with s-shifter. Another potential is your transe is overfilled. You don't fill some Box's transe.s with gear oil till it overflows and starts spilling out the fill hole (like the rest of the world does, even Porsche in most cases), You fill it exactly 13 mm down from the bottom of the fill hole. It's 'effn impossible to do as per manuals method. You kinda have to know some trigonometry, be clever, have a pair of floor jacks, and forget the laughable method in the book to get the spec'd results (13mm down). It would be easy for a mechanic to be lax and just fill it up all the way out of ignorance or laziness. With a regular shifter and it's all it's leverage, you'd probably never notice. He could blissfully get away with it for years. I'd ask Him (as per Bob) If he used the appropriate gear oil and, if he filled it to the tippy top. If affirmative on the second count, have him carefully re-read the appropriate manual and give you loner GT because to fill it to the proper height, as per books method. THat will take him all afternoon. This 13nmm (or whatever) may not be a spec on your model year. Maybe your car is just fill-to-spill, but it (13mm down) is the spec on mine. Adjusting may not do anything to remedy your problem but If it did, it would go a long way to explaining all the silliness. ..keep us posted/ Regards, PK
  14. No prob. Sam, I doubt you'll find it back lit. I always thought they were self illuminated. Regards. PK
  15. Sam, If a globe is a bulb and your car is a 986 with a digital clock in the insreumenr cluster, I don't know if a bulb will help. Nonetheless you need to remove the guage pod. Popping out the emergency flasher button will expose a screw on the rt. On the left pop out the little microphone cover exposing another screw. Remove both screws and the pod should come loose revealing all bulbs. Regards, PK
  16. Seldom, sometimes in Nov-April. Top up most nights out-side in my driveway. Only reason I can see for top is UV protection for interior. Ya' can't steel the thing unless you ra Porsche-phile with sttrong hacker creds.& an innovative mechanics mind who happens to reside in your neighbor hood and prefer Boxsters over GT's Regards, PK
  17. Not to hijack but... Is it time. or use, that breaks down brake fluid? Mine is a 99 but with just 34k on it...arid climate. Regards, PK
  18. There are 2 more relays (if my memory is better than my writing) in the trunk relay tray. I think there the 2, third from the back. They do the heavy lifting. Try popping them out and smack them on the ground a couple times, loosen them up. You can put your finger or ear to those and easily feel or hear them click...which don'st mean you still don't have a dirty contact there. Got a DMM? Regards, Peter
  19. Don't have the solution, Marice will pipe in with the definitive but, the #18 pin mat have nothing to do with it in that it or #15 pin being decommissioned in a certain hack and if it were working before...how would the pin up & dissapear. revesing the hack might make you park stay on. You wouldn't necessarily feel the relay, they are tinny little sugar cubes in that big double relay box. Regards, PK
  20. Get one thats not expensive ..at all. trees drop shade to (do yours) if so, any special uv stuff is useless + cheap fabric doesn't degrade in the shade. My driveway has a complete tree canopy that drools sap to. I've been using the same generic cheapo cover every day for the same reason only, for 8 years. Since it gets little sun, its held together. its nice of course to have a soft inside. Regards, PK
  21. Joe, Took me awhile to figure that one out and unless something is screwed up it should work as I describe. I also did it 2 yrs ago so I may not have it right. The main trick, you are not unscrewing anything to loosen up the mechanism, when you crank that bolt (c.w. I think) you are actually turning the whole tensioner assembly. Give the wrench a good pull and the tensioner assem will pivot at the bolt and rotate (with tension) out of the way. Turning the bolt with the wrench is just putting a lever on against the tensioner spring. You may need a breaker bar, a pipe that slips down over the handle of your wrench to add leverage. I seem to remember using that or a crow bar back there but I was dealing with a different issue so they may not have anything to do with your task. Good luck, PK Hope that help
  22. Terry If your talking about what I think your talking about (above the engine hatch) most will say replace the stuff. Probably right. If not, you don't need anything high temp. a good contact cement will work If anything does. Think 3m. Regards, PK
  23. Just keep you head down.... Regards, PK
  24. Least I can do for a Vet, most I can do as a So cal native. http://anchorage.porschedealer.com/, Pcar club Alaska: http://pcaalaska.org// Regards, PK
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