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pk2

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Everything posted by pk2

  1. pk2
    A little bit of diagnostic data would be to see if you can jump the stareter first thing in the morning. Thats connecting the 2 positive fat leads on the solenoid/starter. There's also a ground lead that runs directly to the block right there at the starter, make sure it's good, tight and clean. That'll take a bite out of the equation. Regards, PK
  2. pk2
    What a great question. Probably at most nothing the kid next door with an Erector set couldn't alter/ Look forward to hearing from someone who knows. PK
  3. pk2
    Don't go to the dealer if you can at all avoid it. Regards, PK
  4. pk2
    In lieu of a Bentley manual, just to be able to feel your way around, a guy on Ebay used sell on the factory manual on a CD for $5. I've also seen it out there on the net. It's completely illogical in its layout and a real pain to find stuff in it but it's all there for the most part. Regards, PK
  5. pk2
    Your wheels sound kind of narrow but shouldn't cause a problem. It's easy enough to find out though, look at the tire on the inside and outside and see if it has rub marks on the upper sides. If your not sure, take it off and look for polished spots on the inside of the fender lip or on the strut tower. Regards, PK
  6. pk2
    ------------------------- Sure it's in, I don't drive it that much, maybe 1000k since I pit it in so I have no long term data. But no problems so far and I can't imagine life without it. With that said, in doing it, I made a list of things I should probably check every once in while, minor disasters waiting to happen The reason they don't support it is probably because they haven't sold them for a long time and there's no potential for making any money off of you. However, You can probably get them chatting if you pretend you want to retrofit it with their new "custom"(not) AIC and 800cc injector. Worked for me once but takes finesse. Good luck, PK
  7. pk2
    Ditto Loren, If its a swamp, get the black box down there out ASAP open it up and, dry it out and you may save it. Defy s all conventional wisdom but I've saved 2 of them this way. Leave it in the lake a couple days and it's history. Regards, PK
  8. pk2
    Riwa, Generally constant clanks and thuds mean you motor is hammering itself to death.( Unless you have a wrench on the crank thats flying around), given that it's dumped all its oil, it sound as though it already has hammered itself to death. Icing on the cake is you have a 99 which was sort of the pinnacle year for the engine disasters we all know and love. Junic, with oil level being critical as you say, how do you reconcile the difference between 8.2 quarts with filter while others are using 9.5? I ask because my cars ready. Can you trust the dipstick. Is a change just like any other car or is it something weird like the old turbos and there dry sumps or something. Regards, PK
  9. pk2
    If its blood curtlling and an on/of sort of thing, It may be a thing called a bendix in your starter. Usually starts its screech right after the the car kicks over and stops abruptly after a second or so. Regards, PK
  10. pk2
    I dont think it maters. If g-05 is recommended it should be ok. The main issue with the coolants for this motor is that they have no phohosphates and silica. That just happens to be the mixology of dexcool which was developed for GM. Just about everyone makes a "dexcool". Hope that helps, I'm pretty sure it correct. Pk
  11. pk2
    Ditto, especially metallics.If the little metallic chips are not standing up at the exact a same angle as the original paint, forget it. You can screw around with the pressure and spray pattern but your really shooting in the dark. The other thing to consider is that the original paint was applied in a and, with a, totally different environment and process. With metallic that's a big diff. by itself. I've seen good painters do it but you may be far more discriminating than I. Cheery little post isn't it. Good Luck P.K.
  12. pk2
    I'm not sure of your terminology but most everything to do with the motor is standard 5v. Regards, PK
  13. pk2
    That'll do it in spades. I think greer put his finger on it, some kind of metallurgical flaw. Regards, PK
  14. pk2
    Sounds like a great Idea. You might see if you can get some fundamental layout diagrams. Bosch used to publish such. How tight Porshe keeps the lid on the details of there adaptation of the motronic I don't know. Actually, thinks there still are somewhat generic Bosh manuals. Regards, PK
  15. pk2
    Your correct in your conclusions about the motors. Most the bolt on stuff is dubious at best. Do to the 11:1 compression, super and turboing needs to be done with some fineness, pretty much what you did to your previous car. Without air to air intercooling (no really good to place to fit it it) or methanol/water your limited to about a 6 lb. boost. For me thats plenty of torque and lots of fun. You can get pretty nice twin turbo setups and supercharger kits. But even with inter cooling, there precious little room an efficient super or turbo. The 'ell that unleashes itself on these motors really has nothing to do with how hard you can push it. If it's going to break in the usual ways it will regardless. Regards, PK
  16. pk2
    Nice bit of sleuthing. You should be able to "burp" it after multiple one mile laps. I just mix up several gallons of coolant ahead of time and keep feeding it till the temp gauge quits creeping up and the coolant level stabilizes. May be a little unnerving after your problems. Regards, PK
  17. pk2
    If you have the manual for the 2.5 I don't think much is different. Somewhere in the archives here or elsewhere is a Is a guy named Matt who kept a log of his install. Search. Regards, PK
  18. pk2
    Yes, It can be especially expensive to replace front cv boots. P.K.
  19. pk2
    One other difference is weather it is "drive by wire" or cable. They are slightly different at the manifold but different enough to require fabrication of a new mate (if wrong). TPC officially doesn't support this product and they don't, in practice or principle. Junic said the operative word;creativity. Go into it with the idea that they don't really fit anyway, keep a mallet handy and you'll be way ahead of the game. Regards, PK
  20. pk2
    What kind of supercharger? In general A 3.4 is a different animal. Benefits of a SC on a 3.4 is nominal. A 25's and and 2.7's are probably interchangeable with some tweaks. Regards, PK
  21. pk2
    BTDT The key is to find a shop that skips the visual if you've messed around with it. If you feel frisky anyone will do as long as it sniffs clean. Headers shouldn't change that. Most smog shops don't know what to make of a Boxster or where to find the motor. Regards, PK
  22. pk2
    I know nothing about your Miata/alpine hack but car radios in general require two 12v leads. One “switched” that is, it powers the radio and turns off with the ignition The other “un-switched” does not go off with the ignition. The one that stays on, always(with ignition off),, un-switched, keeps the memory of your radio powered to retain your settings. It would seem you have both wired to switched terminals. Regards, PK
  23. pk2
    Yes it's serious. I wouldn't drive it to far to fast. And yes you'll be reamed if you leave it with a dealer. But, aside from parts cost (depending on what you broke), any shop can fix it (unless you bent something that requires a body shop). Have fun. Regards, PK
  24. pk2
    I don’t think it’s unreasonable to still have water. That foam backing on the carpet can hold quarts of water. It’s a really good sponge Your lucky it’s on you passenger side. Mine wasn’t, and soaked my “black box” down there under the driver side. Caught it in time to dry it out effectively twice. One time I did not, $$$. I figured out the leaks and did much the same as you, however, since I have no idea when it will spring another leak consider this (or cringe): First, I didn’t’ feel like taking the whole da__ carpet out, especial when wet, weighs a ton. I took out the seat & simply sliced the carpet under the seat from the back firewall to about a foot and a half forward and pealed it back. Second, figuring this was not the first leak and unlikely the last, I drilled a couple holes through the floor, gooped some primer on the newly exposed metal. Let it dry with top down for a few days, put the black box back in (worked, yeah), folded the carpet, back, seat back in. Nothing I did shows in the slightest. Though I have fixed the leak (I think) I never have to sweat it again. I don’t want leaks, but I know when the inevitable comes, I’m covered till I can sort it out. This is my 5th convertible. Give’m time and they leak...period. Regards. PK
  25. pk2
    That’s a weird one, I thought I had them all. Chances are good you have one leak being channeled to 2 places (or 2 in channeled 4 places). Since it’s on both sides It would seem to be systemic problem…like the whole top is twisted. Since you undoubtedly paid Porsche a pretty penny I’d throw it back in there court. To much of a coincidence. Regards, PK
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