pk2

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Problem is solved? Your prescription is always my first attack. The contact on the fuse was simply corroded. Isn't necessarily visible, and isn't rare. You can have the same problem with any exposed; metal to metal connections, grounds, wiring harness plugs, relays, etc. The fix is the same You might consider taking the fuse out again and scuffing the 2 leads with steel wool or something. Then stuff it in and pull it out a couple of times. Must have been literally hang by a thread. Regards, PK

----------------------------------------------- Spit back. I've had my dash out a couple of times, not as daunting as it seems, if you got the book and the time. block off a Saturday day but it may well be a mere 4 or 5 hrs. depending how well you know your way around a tool box. Regards, PK

I'm with Marice, you definitely have a torn boot and maybe nothing else. I think though someone found a boot that doesn't require removing the shaft. Also, a telltale sine of a bum joint can be a crackling knuckles sound around corners. Regards, PK

A lot of them don't do a d_mn thing for horsepower from what I understand, some make it worse. There are cheap dyi mods that will make all the racket you want...see Pedro At Pedro garage or find hm on PPBB. Regards, PK

This is just logic and some fact, I didn't get it from a book, Heat and wear can break down the composition of gear oil. Before it got in your car, it was in the ground for zillions of years. So it would seem time isn't an issue. If it is synthetic It can decompose on its own under really harsh chemical conditions but I don't think the Box. trans. qualifies. Regards, PK

Thanks, I wouldn't of thought so. I have poured over the wiring diagrams. One of 2 obvious switches in the circuit seems to be one for the light In the trunk (go figure). According to the diagram thought there are what appears to be two switches illustrated in the same “module” with the motor. The relays aren't as simple as they might be, they have little resistors on them and wires running back and forth between them, Ive swapped them though and it makes no diff. Same problem. Guess I'll take the motor out and apart (If I have to), see what those diagrammed switches in the are about. Thanks for your reply PK

Not sure if your addressing this to me, but thats exactly how mine behaves... sort of (I thought it used to only go up while holding the button). The only catchs then are: -After the spoiler hits the top of its travel, there is still 12 v , at the solenoid anyway, and it remains tripped or activated. Oddly though, the spoiler motor seem unaffected, I.E. Its not straining, vibrating, groaning etc. -I have to turn the ignition off and back on again, (at which pont there is no more 12v on the solenoid) to lower the spoiler ( to think I've been driving around town looking like dicky racer for the last month). Thats not right is it? Input is welcome. Regards, PK

Hey B, Thanks for the nod. I don't think the motors really being stressed at 50 hp per cylinder. In my opinion, if the top end is cool, and it still blows apart; it would have anyway sooner or rather than later (and 99's do...or don't, by 50k... I'm at 30k... little hairy). Most horror stories seem to come from people romping around on 91 Oct....what can you really expect dumping hot, pressurized air into a motor with 11:1 comp. Ratio. I'm sure some blow as a result of the SC but plenty stock motors blow young to. Willow will be a true test indeed...for my nerves to. I'm actually most concerned about the little Eaton super. It'll be spinning past it's red-line by about 12% (not unheard of) at the cars red-line. There not terribly expensive to rebuild or replace, I just hate it when things go crunch while I'm clinging to an edge... makes my back teeth hurt. Regards, PK

Thanks for the reply, Actually I can make it go up and down just fine by jumping 12 v. straight to the leads off the motor. Heres the kicker, I popped the caps off the relays (and cleaned the contacts) and watched the mechanism work. Than had to jump it to make it go down again. So, I put a DMM on the leads to the motor and worked the up/down switch. Whats happening is this: 1)You when I hit the “up” button and release it, the DMM continues to read 12 v...forever, while the spoiler goes up and while it's up. Pushing the down button does nothing to change that and it will not go down. 2)Turn the car of and back on, constant 12v is gone and the spoiler goes down with the pushand holding of the button. Let off it and the 12v. Stops and so does the 12v. Basically It behaves correctly. 3)Sticky up/down switch? no. I disconnected the 3 leads from the back off the up down switch and jumped the 2 leads to make it go up, by just stabbing it for a second the motor continued all the way up and the the meter continued to read 12 v. No jump wire connected. Going down the spoiler behaves normally, stab the jumper and the motor & 12 v starts and stops immediately...like it should. Hold the jumper wire and it goes down all the way or untill release the jumper wire. 4)Relays sticks, doubtful; I switched them (up for down). This should have reversed the problem (would go down with a mere “stab” and wouldn't go back up till ig is turned off and then require holding in place) In addition, with the up triggered and stuck at 12v, the solenoid armature can be pryed open but snap closed right away. So, (still with me?) somehow , stabbing the up button (or wire) briefly, trips something that continues to supply the 12v to the solenoid and thus the motor, continuously till the key is turned off. Something between the switch, and relays is causing a "latching relay like"problem...weird. Regards, PK

Sounds, like you did well. Mines looking more complex than the motor (which works fine). I know how mine is missbehaving, but I don't know what is causing the problem. Enjoy and good luck. PK

Hey Topless, With all do respect (and I mean it) I run mine with a 4.5 boost with a 91/100 oct. mix. About 4 to one ratio respectively for 93 octane, no detonation. I'm in the process of adding a custom, precision mappable meth/h20 injection setup. I don't anticipate anymore detonation worries. That Combined with a an .2 reduction in the sc pulley diameter and some other tricks up my sleeve, should get me close to the 300hp neighborhood. So the beauty of it is that if you play your cards right, it can be an 'elluva lot of HP for the buck, especially when you compare it to what people pay for a shiny exhaust system with negligible performance gains. Would I do again, ya but BTDT. I'd probably find a cheap worn 3.6L, rebuild it from the inside out to my liking and do a transplant. Regards, PK P.S. A tech/engineer from Aquamist U.K. is walking me through it (WI)...and actually building me “one of” electronic components...for nothing...and I'm not even using Aquamist components)

I put mine in. Took quite a bit of grit. Knowing what I know now though, It wouldn't be that daunting at all to do it again. As far as messing up the car, how so. Yes people blow them up. As far as I know the weak link is the top end. If you wind up with detonation (heat, low octane gas, run it lean, over boost it, etc) you can Kiss it goodbye. The bottom end shouldn't really be a problem. It is going to wear out sooner, but hp cost miles. If messing up the means damaging the car due to installation, you can pull it right out and return to stock, no one will be the wiser. I don't recall any permanent mods. THe kits themselves are a bit klugy , not altogether engineered from a installation stand point. Overall the cars lots of fun, has a strange torque curve that takes getting used to (first car I've 360'd without even trying). It does feel sort fragile but thats in the drivers head (but may be justifiable). I'm laying the ground work for upping the horsepower. Don't try without the right infrastructure. Regards, PK

I've just put my spoiler down... & up & down etc. THe polarity is indeed just reversed for up or down. Did it with a 12v jump so I know my motors not bad. (Subsequent testing shows the problems upstream from the rear relays too). If you want to try yourself, heres how: 1) You'll need 2 wires, 12v+ and a ground. Battery charger is pretty fool proof source of 12v, but if your handy and lazy you can tap into the relay board back there. 2) Pull the back most carpet panel in the trunk forward (right in front of the spoiler mech.held in by a few plastic fasteners.) 3) Reach down in the middle and you'll find a 7 odd wire piggy back plug thing, pull it out and unplug the ends from each other (hint the latch fingers are counterintuitive) 4) You want the plug that goes back and under the center of the mechanism. From left to right, 1st and 3rd wires run the motor, blue/green & yellow/green respectively. 5) Hold the ground in place on one of the 2 terminals (doesn't matter which )and carefully stab your 12v+ at the other If it doesn't go down reverse them and try again. If it goes down your motors ok (you can put it up again by reversing the leads. Hope that helps, might save you the price of a motor. Regards, PK

Ya it does sound weird. 2 of 3 relays are right back there in the trunk. Mine both click, up and down, I also cleaned up their insides. The only other reasonable variables (short of the motor) would be the speed sensor and an I assume a micro-switch(s)... up and down stops. If they have verified it's the motor, strange but true. If it's not of course, you still have the underlying problem. My wiring diagrams show four wires coming of the motor. 2 are indicator for the dash light and 2 are power. My cars wiring and the diagram have little obvious in common at first blush. With my top motor it was really easy to run the motor either way to verify if it works with a battery charger. I'm going to break it out and try to see whats going see what there is to see. Regards, PK

I'd be interested in how that works out, I have the same problem. Mine was unpredictable sometimes, worked fine other times, finally got stuck, up. Please let us know how it works out. That motor I believe just reverses polarity to go back down. IF it went up without much of a fuss, weird that it won't go back down unless theres a break in the down circuit. Regards, PK

Is it a case off when your motor is running or when the key is in the run position? Is there anything else that only works with the engine off? Rewgards, PK

I don’t know the exact value but Here in southern California my gauge, once warmed up, always runs with the needle straight up, be it 40f or 95f ambient. Occasionally it will go a little bit higher with hard driving on a hot day. I have heard that once you’re past the ¼ mark your suitably warmed up. If your near half way point consistently, I doubt your hurting anything. Regards, PK

Thanks Maurice, That common eh. Fortunatly I thinking preventive medicine. From decriptions, I think I'd freak if mine let go. Regards, PK

Hmm Thats interesting...alot of people (Including my dad, a E.E. Phd.) used to use WD40 as a contact cleaner...The plot thickens. Regards, PK

I replaced my 17” turbo twist’s with 18” turbo twist’s. I can’t really tell the difference in handling but I definitely can feel degradation in ride quality. The 17’s just seemed a really nice balance in handling and ride for every day driving. I don’t really recall ever being disappointed in the handling. Hypothetically bigger wheels should allow for better handling but I’m not altogether sure in practice. I seem to recall some debate here or there a few yrs ago about the merits of upping wheel size to 18. Might do a search. Regards, PK

------------------------------------- What do you use to clean the MAF? Regards, PK

Sounds like fun. Your not kidding about the rice burners, visit an EVO or WRX for some humility. There’s a handful of us out there with same lofty goals. You might pop in to this thread: http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?...5539#post135539 Gary & others have been great sounding boards over there having done it or are in the process. Regards, PK

Calling in from the left coast. Got a stock one on my BMW and it really works quite nice. Probably the same science on the p-car. If I thought it would ever rain here again I would look into it. Regards, PK

Just because it doesn’t leak now doesn’t mean didn’t in the past. It might not hurt to take the unit out and clean all the cable connectors…as I would with all the connectors in the loop. Call me crude and uncouth but I’ve had an ongoing war with pesky leaks for a long time & after ringing out that black box several times after storms (remarkably it worked after opeming up and drying out) and finally having wrecked one, I drilled a few holes in the floor …still leaks but at least I don’t have to sweat about a lethal puddle under my seat (and in the box). Regards, PK P.S. I’m subscribing here cause my remote doesn’t’ work on the trunk.

Wish I can remember what tiped the scale but it was probably a “duh” head slapper. Regards, Pk