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pk2

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Everything posted by pk2

  1. pk2
    Thanks, Private message/post is fine then (grin). That point also suggests it could done and in 30 seconds or less. That would be fine but I'm just as interested in a one time permanent fix, If it takes some time and energy to do a fix, so as of no use to a theif, thats fine.. As for wrecking them; At least one soaked for a week or two, Another, a new replacement, wouldn't accept another key code when I lost the key and had to replace it. This current one, I suspect, is damaged from battery charger leads being reversed for 20mins or so (I read that would do it, but if not....). As far as drying them out, I've done that a dozen times at least and worried every time it rained (till I found a fix). But here I am again and that's the point, I’ve sweat far more, & justifiably so, about it not starting and leaving me high ($$$$) and... wet, than I ever have about it getting stolen. - If the immobilizer would be unlikely to get wrecked from reversed charger leads, let me know and I'll keep looking for the problem. (still want to get rid of the immobilizer though).; - Also, theres a chance I tweaked the leads on the coil transponder reciver thing. Any one know how to test it? I realize from googling this is not a new topic and has been covered (in conclusively) but it's been awhile. I know it can be done though and I'm only reviving the subject because, I don’t know how & because the cars old enough that it might be more of a common knowledge thing. Anyone? Regards, PK
  2. pk2
    Hello, I have the attached type of steering wheel. I’d like to remove the front fascia (highlighted) for a little modding. I can’t figure how it comes off. I’m pretty sure the parts manual shows it as a removable (purchasable anyway) part. Any ideas anyone? Regards, PK
  3. pk2
    Hello, Looks like I'm looking at my third immobilizer. Not sure but I crossed the leads on a battery charger and I think zaped it, everythings screwy electrically and it won't crank. (I've checked all the usual stuff; clutch switch, ignition switch, etc) I can jump a relay in the trunk an make crank but no ignition. The immobilizer for me is really nothing but trouble. I'm the one imobilized. I'd love to simflify and be rid of it. 3 of these have cost me far more than my theft insurance deductible. With the 15+ year old tech, it wouldn't seem to be to much trouble to maybe fake a "go" signal to the DME (with a little $50 open source micro controller maybe.). Once my car is running, the immobilizer seems to be done any way, no need for the fob pill to be anywhere near the car to run and drive. Seems just a little signal during the first few seconds of cranking is what stands in the way of me and $1k in savings. So: - Anyone find a way to anyway bypass the signal receiver in the DME, trick it, re-flash it, replace the immobilizer with a fake, whatever... - Also, is there a way to test the transponder coil & transformer? (outside chance I mess it up working on interior) Regards, PK
  4. pk2
    From what I understand, relative inactivity is the curse of A.C. systems. An AC system should be run every month. The problem, could be one or more of a handful of seals that dry up and leak without the lubrication's carried along with coolant. Your AC system. Regards, PK
  5. pk2
    You shouldnt have to remove the entire unit (though I'm not sure what you model looks like). Usualy you can pop the nobs of with a screw driver. Work your way around the knob prying. Another posibility is painting them in place (again I don't know exactly what they look like). Just carefully tape around them with good massking tape. Then tape newspaper around that to protect everything. Peel rubber away, (maybe sand with 220) and finish with 350 or so. If you don't trust your self with a spray can, any body shop should do it really cheap if you have it prepped. If you have to remove the entire unit, the sides of the center counsel just pop of revealing a bunch of screws holding in the various components. There's a hand full of screws on each side, Remove. Then the unit will slide out..Cable conectors are all different so reasemambly isn't a big deal. Regards PK See This
  6. pk2
    How many miles? Compression check? Leak down? Regards, PK
  7. pk2
    How the 'ell could you hear anything at all with those bypass Pipes JSM? (grin) PK
  8. pk2
    A long shot but:: How cold is cold and what weight oil are you using? Has anyone checked your actual oil pressure under these "cold" circumstances? Regards, PK
  9. pk2
    A stretched serpentine belt can give you a chirp. Also, If it only happens when it's cold, It can be lifter(s), (pretty much harmless). Regards, PK
  10. pk2
    Does that mean It won't work or radically is radically off in it.s diagnosis? My cars full of VW/Audi parts. I have the code-book and therefore never understood the need for a Durametric... as long as I can extract the codes Most seem to be pretty generic.. Regards, PK
  11. pk2
    I don't remember with what car, but a couple of linear parts, inside a master cylinder, separated from each other. It had the effect of not letting the fluid return to the master cylinder. It was basically pumping up the wheel cylinders and not releasing the fluid pressure (not very fast at all anyway) when the break pedal was released. Read, you may need a new master cylinder. Regards, PK
  12. pk2
    I have the standard OBD2(?) on my 99 Box (the rectangular-ish plug). . I bought one of these things. Total $30 crap-shoot,, be surprised if it works. Does anybody know if it does work, will work as a standard OBC2 code reader for other cars with the sameOBC2 plug? Regards, PK
  13. pk2
    JFP is right (if PA (if that's Pennsylvania) shows the same emission standards as California.. California smog plugs there computers into the OBC(?) port and your codes are likely to show up. Do you have CEL? Whats it running like? Is running it cold 2 mins supposed to make the prob go away? Good luck. PK
  14. pk2
    Good for you; doing it yourself. If you have a manual(Bentley), it should cover it. If you don't and if you can figure things out you might find a good exploded view here that you can work from. Regards, PK
  15. pk2
    There is quite alot of debate as to how real the guauge on your dash is. To Lorens point, to get closer to your actual temp you can buy a cheap IR temp reader(Harbor freight) and shoot it around at hot spots on your cooling circuit and engine. See if it jives with your dash gauge. If it does I'd say you nee a new fan/thermostatic sender. (Loren?) Regards, PK
  16. pk2
    Sometimes if you don't' reassemble things properly with zero air leaks you can get throttle "hunting". I bet Loren is right though. Should he have a check engine light either way though? Regards, PK
  17. pk2
    Sounds like it may be only pulling from one side (in-part or all). Could just be one of the usual small part failures mentioned often here. Regards, PK
  18. pk2
    Might call a couple of AC shops and act semi dumb? see if you can get an answer that makes sence? Regards, pk
  19. pk2
    97-04 are pretty much the same exceptions being stuff you don't really need. Rear quarter panels I'd add Star recycling to above list of junk yards. Regards, PK
  20. pk2
    I'm replacing a bum trans. at 40k and obviously want to replace necessary components while I have it cracked open. Barely drive it here in suburbia but when I do, I do kick it around a bit. Don't need to go over board with racing stuff unless there's an awful good reason and it's cost effective for my use. 1-IMS Bearing; LN the only game in town? 2 Clutch (assuming worn 20% or more) what Brand for durability, casual use? Semi Performance? 3 Pressure plate; (why if there is no scoring/wear? Springs or something?) If good reason, brands? 4 Clutch release/throw-out bearing: (mine is shot) Sachs, INA, ?? 5 Pilot bearing (is there one?) brand?? 6 Gear oil; Symco(?) or…. 7 Rear motor mounts? Again, I'm not racing (but do hoarse around). Performance parts O.K. if not a big premium $ (may autocross some day though). Just want to get it back on the road for the next 40k mi. (10 yrs.) without paying through the as_ for inferior parts Regards, PK
  21. pk2
    Really nice mod. Be interested in hearing about HP/whp #s and what sort of accessibility issues you have as the mechanic, and of course…cost, bang for buck. Seems like a great alternative to trying to shoehorn a GT motor in or straining the 'ef out of a modded hand-grenade of a 3.2-3.8 six.. Good Job, we're all jealous ....for now (grin), PK
  22. pk2
    Error 35 is a little mysterious to me but the other 2 seem sort of self explanatory; You have a couple of bad 02 sensors One in frnt of a cat and one behind. You may find that by replacing the 2 error 35 will disappear. Regards, Pk
  23. pk2
    You can't see anything move if you get under it and shove a wheel around? It would be quite a coincidence if each wheels suspension components went out with the exact same symptoms, independently, and at the same time. I would look for something they both share... like the steering rack or something. Regards, PK
  24. pk2
    Maurice is your man here but depending how heavy the rain is in your area I probably would not even drive it in the rain. Park it with a tarp over it until you sort it out or it stops raining.. That imobilizer is down under the carpet and a thick spongelike padding. It can be flooded with out you even knowing it. A new one will cost you an easy $1k at an indie shop as it has to be programed. Regards, PK
  25. pk2
    Did you do a search? There must be dozens of people who have don this+I think their may be a DIY around to. Regards, PK
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