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pk2

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Everything posted by pk2

  1. pk2
    Thanks, I forgot about the different s.s. variants. I got a stainless bung and who know what it is. I'll convey your thoughts to my friend the welder. PK
  2. pk2
    To be honest I got hung up on bullets 1 and 2 .I just didn't have time to figure out electric window setup and how I could jack it around to accomplish what it needs to do. It's not far off. I am cofident that understanding one and having the ability to hack it a bit you would be set. Regards, PK
  3. pk2
    Like an electric window… I Researched this quite a bit sometime ago. Basically what you want is the equivalent of a contemporary electric window circuit which addresses all the issues Maurice mentioned and maybe more. (reverse on interference detection, a stop on full close and open, A one hit button etc. Just so happens you can buy a retrofit electric window system controller on ebay ($40 (?) that serves all these functions. The differences are probably all hack-able if that's what you do. You could also get one from a junk yard that does everything we all want with our tops (above) and reverse engineer it with the following tweaks: 1) Over-come the resistance feedback, A top drains a lot more than a window 2) The " throw" distance, as I recall, would need to run about twice as long as a window (a lot less than you would think). 3) More I can recall. Hope that helps, regards, pk BTW: Mike, Your link is dead I think.
  4. pk2
    Great, Thanks. Time to buddy up to my old neighbor with his plasma torch. Regards, PK
  5. pk2
    Thanks for the reply, Ya, stainless requires equipment I don't have. On the other hand my cars a 99 so not exactly a late model. I'm being lazy I guess though, I could just stick a magnet on it...but It still could be some weird alloy. Regards, PK
  6. pk2
    ditto, If damp, and you have a downright puddle under the carpet & padding under the seat,, get the immobilizer (black box) out of there, crack it open and dry it out. You might get lucky with minimal loss of functionality. Then find the leak (Maurice). Regards, PK
  7. pk2
    Hello, I want to wire in another pre-cat O2 sensor (wide band) for tuning. The Pipe is in such good condition I am wondering if it's something exotic...(stainless). Can I weld a new bung to it with a traditional weld or braze or, will require some exotic weld. Regard, PK
  8. pk2
    Loren, Just who I hoped I would hear from. It's a 1999 2.5 Regards, PK
  9. pk2
    My driver door sounds like a an old pickup truck door when It closes and latches. It appears to fit square, the rubber looks good and I don’t believe it’t has ever been hit. I bought a special star type socket driver to adjust the latch and striker plate position to no avail. It made absolutely no. The car only has about 40k on it so I wouldn’t think It’s a question of driver side wear. Are there any common problems any one knows about, items that wear in the door I should know about? Regards, PK
  10. pk2
    To riff on mcmike27s point, the smallest rims you can stand looks-wise, the better your ride. Surprisingly you can still have a really nice handling car. I’ve seen people tracking 16”s. You could also have an upulstry shop add some padding. Not to hard if the leather is good Regards, PK
  11. pk2
    Can’t help you with the codes but… Did Loren recommend a K&N filter? My recollection from sometime back is that they really stunk. Could be a real maf killer so full of oil. Regards, PK
  12. pk2
    What "diagnosis"? Maybe cracked coil pack(s) or plug wires. Regards PK
  13. pk2
    Concrat's and welcome. Sounds like you've done your home work and are on top of things. My 2 cents would be; Drive by cable is the least of your challenges, I don't think it will be when your done. A six speed is not a big deal, I think the later "S's" had them stock out of the box anyway. I think there is also an outfit that can fit a six speed to any of these sixes. Gotta' run, keep us posted-PK
  14. pk2
    Since no one ever see’s the underside of your car you could consider repairing the pieces you have. You can use big fender washers on screws that got ripped through, 5 minuet epoxy, fiberglass, black duct tape…be creative…if you can…or go to a junk yard. (you should see the underside of my car) PK
  15. pk2
    Ditto, Do a search, I think there is a VW switch that will work. PK
  16. pk2
    The torques specs take up a disarmingly tiny portion of the manual don' they? PK
  17. pk2
    It's your battery disconect. There is a trick of holding the widow swithces down (with ignition on) for 15 seconds (somthing like that). Do a search for the exact nethod and all you woes will evaporate. Regards, PK
  18. pk2
    S brakes if you race or auto-x spare motor oif the price and milage is right center rad. S suspension Glass windowed top and frame (was that 02) Regards, PK
  19. pk2
    Try filling it up. Regards PK
  20. pk2
    Assuming you don't have a sensitive alarm, get the cat out of it's routine, they're creatures of habit. Forget a static solution. -Certain smells or tastes whatever turns cats off (Google it). Spread it out on a strip of cardboard (1.5'x4'), move it around your car every night… on top, on the trunk, etc. -Find a loud horn or bell, vibration, thump emitter, get clever, that just goes of intermittently but frequently at night. Again, there creatures of habit. It's a torture teqniqe under the Geneva convention, but harmless because the cat can split. In short, irritate the cat unpredictably, intermittently, automatically and annoyingly at night, the cat will split. Wouldn't you? Regards, PK
  21. pk2
    Jeez, I've heard nightmares about Hergascheimer's. I guess if it's non invasive they can't screw anything up (or can they). Arrogant as all 'ell to so I've heard. Regards, PK
  22. pk2
    There used to be one right there in Huntington beach that had a good reputation. I go to on a place in Costa Mesa who's name I can never recall, only that it's on "Ohms" street. Auto Strasse maybe? Have you Googled? Regards, PK
  23. pk2
    The belt would have been my first guess but you've done your due diligence. If not the spark plugs, I've heard the lifters in higher mileage motors can give a chirp for a bit while warming up. You also mentioned in passing late in your paragraph white smoke. That can be a bad thing and should share top billing on your post… Speak. Regards, PK
  24. pk2
    Someone was selling them oin ebay about a year ago for about 10 bucks. Mines held up well. Regardsm PK
  25. pk2
    Steve, The hose to mail pipe connection in my experience is the most common area for failurer hose failure. I've never sseen a hose split anwhere else. The a larger hose isn't a great idea, it's compressing the hose where it doesn't want to be and stressing it to early failure. Were I to go that that route, I might pick a hose I.D. with an average of the 2 different male rad. pipes I.D.s, Stretch one and compress the other. (silicone rubber can help you lubricate the tight one). spread the strain in half but…in two places now On the other hand, a reducer will be a lot easier on your hoses and let them reliably live longer. However, you obviously have twice as many connections fail. Ideally you would be to get your auto-parts emporium smurf to let you mosey down behind the counter of the radiator hose isle and see if you can find something that will work either of the shelf or with some trimming. There are lots (most?) of hoses with 2 different end sizes. Regards, PK
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